Gear change problem - Thrust Washers?

[Claire&Neil]

Hi when we purchased our TR we found there was was a gear change problem, ie very stiff or near impossible gear change. I have been told possible clutch problems, however prior to purchase the car had a complete new clutch assembly. We were also told it could be the selector forks or even the thrust washers.

 

Last weekend I took her out for a drive, first when i managed to get reverse gear, I sat for fives minutes wrestling to get it out of reverse, then when I pulled up at a junction I couldnt get first. I have been told that stiff gears are a characteristic of the TR6?

 

Could it be the thrust washers? Having tested the crankshaft play we feel we need to have our thrust washers replaced and having looked on the moss website not sure which ones we need, standard or standard and oversized. I understand there is a method of adding in extra sizes to prevent the same reoccurring problem that is common with these washers happening again?

 

Will this cure our gear problem or should we be looking elsewhere?

 

Also can anyone tell us what type of crankshaft we have, short or long backed. Our TR6 is a 1972 150PI.

 

Thanks

Claire & Neil

[Bald Rick]

Hi Clare and Neil

 

I agree that the TR6 clutch and gearbox is a bit "agricultural" when compared with modern cars but it should not be that difficult.

 

One simple and inexpensive thing to do is to is check the gearbox oil level and if it is low, top up as necessary, or better still drain and refill it. Low oil level can make gearchanging difficult.

 

If the clutch is not disengaging properly, it would make it difficult to select gears. With the brakes off, if you fully depress the the clutch and engage first gear does the car creep or move forward? If you select first gear with the engine off then depress the clutch and turn the starter does the car move forward? Does it do the same with reverse? How about the other gears. With the car stationary and the engine running if you fully depress the clutch are other gears difficult to select? Can you hear the teeth grating against each other when you try to select them? If the answer to these is yes I would think you have a problem with the clutch not fully disengaging.

 

With regard to the thrust bearing. If you search through this forum you will find a lot of posts on thrust washers and the consequences and effects of wear and how to replace them.

 

You will be able to find out what crank you have by cross referencing your engine no against one of the on line catalogues, Moss or Rimmer bros should have the info.

 

Hopefully this is of some help. There are lots of people on this forum more qualified than I who will be able to give you excellent advice but do search back through previous posts using the search facility.

 

Good luck

 

Tony

[Claire&Neil]

Hi Tony

Many thanks, will start the investigating.

 

Claire & Neil

[wheeler]

Hi Claire and Neil

 

Assuming your problem is clutch related, I had similar problems when I restored my TR6 and fitted a new clutch, try moving the 'fork' from the slave cylinder to the top hole of the clutch operating arm, makes the clutch pedal a bit heavier but gives a little more clutch travel, also check that the spring in the clutch master cylinder is actually returning the piston all the way when you take your foot off the clutch, cured mine by by stretching the spring. Loads of clutch stuff on the Buckeye triumphs website archive some pictures missing but still pretty useful http://web.archive.org/web/20040205235144/...x_technical.htm

 

Hope this helps

 

Bill

[jonlar]

Hi Bill, the correct position for the pin is the middle hole, all pivot holes (in levers and pedal etc.)and clevis pins need to be checked for wear and any ovalling, these put together make a lot of difference, the clutch cover spring does the returning of the fluid back to MC and will move the piston, rather than the diddly little sping in the cyl..

[Guest ron]

Hi Claire and Neil

I would suggest the problem is most likely with the clutch, possibly a broken taper pin, I think the thrust washer would have to be worn to the extent that it has fallen out to cause gearchange problems and that is very easy to check, you will have a massive amount of float on the crankshaft.

 

Bill

I agree with Jon, you shouldn't need to use the top hole, something isn't right, and it's most likely cumulative wear.

The TR6 clutch and gearbox maybe aren't the best in the world but in good order they should do the job without any problems.

Ron

[wheeler]

Hi Bill, the correct position for the pin is the middle hole, all pivot holes (in levers and pedal etc.)and clevis pins need to be checked for wear and any ovalling, these put together make a lot of difference, the clutch cover spring does the returning of the fluid back to MC and will move the piston, rather than the diddly little sping in the cyl..

 

Hi Jon

 

You are of course correct, the normal position is the centre hole. I was only suggesting trying the top hole so Claire and Neil could see if it makes gear changing easier and if so would indicate something wrong with the clutch release, sorry if I gave the wrong impression. Regarding the master cylinder return spring I definitely had that problem when the piston seal was new/tight and the spring weak. I also heard of a broken ms spring causing clutch release failure.

 

Bill