Guest jeffremj Posted February 28, 2006 Report Share Posted February 28, 2006 I have finally got a fully mapped ignition system on the TR7 16V - it will also fit the same way on an 8V. Note that it still uses the standard (unchanged) carburation system, so no expensive piping and pumps and new fuel tanks. It is based on the Megajolt Lite Junior system shown here: http://picasso.org/mjlj/ My installation pictures are here: http://fp.jeffremj.plus.com/edis.htm The system is based around Ford EDIS parts (less than 20 quid from a breakers yard) and a very cheap DIY ECU. Software is free, you just need a PC. If you want to do things in situ, then a laptop is needed. I have added such things as an anti-stall device in the map. My car has a fast road cam and the idle is a bit wayward when cold and it would stall at junctions - this doesn't happen anymore. I have programmed in an ignition timing boost at 500-800rpm to kick the revs up to 800rpm. I have also set up a rev limit at 7K with the timing backed off to 10BTDC - the power drops dramatically at this point. Another point to consider is that the EDIS system will limp home at 10BTDC if the ECU fails. If the timing sensor fails, then all you do it put your old leads back on the distrubutor, which has to remain in situ. I actually use the distributor system to run the tacho - the coil remains, but disconnected and replaced by a 1K resistor in 'points' circuit. BTW, the TR7 tacho is very very accurate!! The hardest things is the metalwork. I am sure that in bulk quantities, the brackets and timing wheel would be cheap. As a habitual tweaker, this is the best thing I have fitted to a car, ever - thoroughly recommended! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rayjones Posted March 1, 2006 Report Share Posted March 1, 2006 Very interesting, I guess the timing accuracy must improve without the mechanical backlash inherent in distributors. Have you noticed any difference in power output, or does it just run better with the fast cam? Ray Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest jeffremj Posted March 1, 2006 Report Share Posted March 1, 2006 Very interesting, I guess the timing accuracy must improve without the mechanical backlash inherent in distributors. Have you noticed any difference in power output, or does it just run better with the fast cam? It revs beyond 7K. It seems to cruise with less throttle openings. It pulls harder from 1500rpm in top. I may put it on a rolling road to check. Last year, with the distributor, I had 140bhp at 6100rpm. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
w_eden Posted March 2, 2006 Report Share Posted March 2, 2006 I've been planning on fitting this setup to the TR2 I am restoring, as the distributor is worn, and an electronic setup eliminating the moving parts should be able to give a much better ignition curve. It should also make starting much easier as the spark will be very strong at low speed! Where did you get hold of your toothed wheel? Will Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest jeffremj Posted March 2, 2006 Report Share Posted March 2, 2006 Where did you get hold of your toothed wheel? This is the difficult bit. A guy at work sorted it all out for his TR7 16V and I just gave him some money for another set of hardware. Your best bet is to get some like minded people - from a TR club say and get a batch made from a local metal bashers. You will have to work out the toothed wheel position first, mine is behind the pulley. All it consists of is a circle with drilled holes at the edge, a central hole and two mounting slots to get the exact alignment for TDC. Ford do sell trigger wheels for 10 quid, but on the TR7, it would have to be fitted on the 'outside' of the pulley. You then have to CAD the wheel and get it made. You then have to find a place for the VR sensor. This can be anywhere within reach of the trigger wheel. The trigger wheel is then aligned on the pulley such that when the engine is 90 degrees (4 cylinder) or 60 degrees (6 cylinder) BTDC, the missing tooth on the wheel is located 180 degrees away from the VR sensor. All the other stuff can be mounted anywhere, just use shielded cables from Maplin Electronics. You have to decide whether to use a throttle position sensor or a MAP sensor. The latter needs a vacuum connection from the inlet manifold - I use this method. Hope this helps. I've been planning on fitting this setup to the TR2 I am restoring, as the distributor is worn I forgot to mention, the entire cost is probably less than the cost of a recon. distributor. And it is more fun! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rhodri Posted March 2, 2006 Report Share Posted March 2, 2006 Excellent piece of kit, but tell me how you make your "map". Do you run the car and adjust it by ear and the seat of your pants , or is it more scientific ? I appreciate an expensive rolling road session will also do it. Why did you choose the Renault base map ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest jeffremj Posted March 3, 2006 Report Share Posted March 3, 2006 Excellent piece of kit, but tell me how you make your "map". Do you run the car and adjust it by ear and the seat of your pants , or is it more scientific ? I appreciate an expensive rolling road session will also do it. Why did you choose the Renault base map ? The initial map was to get the thing started. I added the idle boost and rev limiter. Web info pointed to a 16V engine as having a max advance of around 32 and a low load at around 3500 being OK for max advance. I am running a fairly rich mixture at the moment. The Renault map is more an aid-memoir (sp?). I would like to check the extremes of the map on a quick rolling road session. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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