A Call For Help!!

[Rajaz]

Hi All  

I have been advised by a forum member to start a new topic and list all my problems so that you guys can help me if possible.  There is nothing major as the TR is on the road, just a few niggles that need sorting out, so here we go:

 

Firstly the car:  British TR6 PI, Registured Oct 1974, CR6561 125 BHP.  LRP fuel with no unleaded conversion  I have fitted a fuel pump "Coil Cooler". Run for over 500 miles since I've had it earlier this year so fuel should now be OK although I have already been advised not to use LRP.

 

1) My TR6 had not run for 4 years before it became mine and once let loose a bit seem to run fine although the "CO" was high at around 8to9%.  I took it to a guy who has had dealings with TR6's, who had it for two weeks.  The "CO" is better now around 5% but at low revs its very lumpy.     I no longer have much confidence in this guy and wondered if anybody could recomend somebody resonably local to set it up properly for me.  I live in Stourbridge, West Midlands and would appreciate any help.  

 

2) Although there appears to be no leak, as I have checked several times, I have a smell of petrol in the boot. Not good for the sandwiches when you go for a picknick.

 

3) My speedo is running slow.  Although its very steady it appears to be 10 to 20 MPH slow (sorry I ment fast - in other words road speed 30 speedo showing 40 to 45). Could it have the wrong gear in the box or even the wrong ratio speedo itself?

 

4) I have a clicking noise from the O/S rear, sounds like I've got a bird stuck in there.  Seems to be worse when moving through the gears creating jerky movements.  I thought it might be movement on the exhaust or it may be suspension related.  I can not see anything underneath and I have greased all I can and wax oiled the rest. I have moved the back end in all direction when stationary but can not get it to make the same noise.

 

I think that will do for now.  I do have a few problems with my hard top but am hopping to resolve them at the Internation show next weekend.

 

Thanks a lot Guys,

Allan  

[Richard Crawley]

Allan

You really need to help yourself initially & read back through previous forum posts as info on your questions 2, 3 & 4 have appeared very recently! If you can’t find answers here, by all means post back with specific questions

[Rajaz]

Sorry Richard for not following forum decorum I will do my best to help myself in future.  Just tried to get in to talk to you guys and was not sure where or how to start.  I assure you I have been trying to help myseif with the TR since I bought it but was just hoping for a little help. ???

 

Once again sorry for starting off on the wrong thread,

Allan

[Victor1155]

Hi Allan

The smell of petrol from the boot area is down to this infernal lead free petrol and its ability to vapourize. It is a topic that has been discussed before but still rears its with new members, the only thing that I would recommend checking is that the hoses, in the boot, for the fuel injection are suitable for use with lead free fuel so as to limit the amount of fuel vapour that 'escapes'.

With your speedo problem you will need to investigate whether or not the gearbox is the original one check the numbers stamped, not cast, into the gearbox casing then compare them against the ones that should be fitted. Its not uncommon for people to fit saloon etc type gearboxes into TR's especially when converting to overdrive. If it has been replaced it may have the wrong type of drive or driven gear, but please follow the advice given and look at previous posts.

The clicking noise from the O/S/R is quite possibly one or both driveshaft universal joints as the symptoms that you describe are quite common when these have worn, get them replaced asap before the joint(s) let go and do further damage.

Good luck.

 

Steven H   :blues:

[Richard Crawley]

Sorry Richard for not following forum decorum I will do my best to help myself in future.  Just tried to get in to talk to you guys and was not sure where or how to start.  I assure you I have been trying to help myseif with the TR since I bought it but was just hoping for a little help. ???

 

Once again sorry for starting off on the wrong thread,

Allan

Alan

No criticism was intended, it’s just that it’s sometimes easier to suggest looking back at previous posts on the more common issues to avoid repeating the same stuff over & over.

 

If you need further help, post back & you can be assured of a good response.

[Rajaz]

Thanks Steven,

I have now checked previous postings and will most certainly follow yours and there advice regarding the fuel smell.

I'll check the gearbox out when I get the chance but it sounds like the driveshafts are certainly more pressing. I was hoping the clicking would be something simple and cheep of caurse but I will have to take a closer look to see if I can detect any play in them. Looks like my winter work is starting to take shape.

 

Many Thanks,

Allan

 

Oh and Richard no worries I'll get the hang of it aventually :cool:

Cheers Allan

[jonlar]

Hi Allan, Have you tried pumping the drive-shafts and U-Js full of grease, that's the first thing to try, same with front suspension, but thick oil should be used, these old bangers of ours have a few nipples secreted in different locations, there's no quicker way to knacker the joints and moving parts than running them dry.    Our car hadn't been used since 1994/5 and all grease had dried out, and rubber parts rotted, the track rod end boots fell to powder on being touched.

 

Re. the speedo, check the numbers printed on the dial at the bottom, should show no. of revs per mile and stick the numbers on here.

[trt74]

My speedo is running slow.  Although its very steady it appears to be 10 to 20 MPH slow. Could it have the wrong gear in the box or even the wrong ratio speedo itself?

 

Hi Allan,

You may want to check your tyresize. If the circumference of your tyres differ from the original size your speedo will have to be recalibrated.

 

Tim

[Guest simonwtaylor]

Change your petrol sender gasket, and the smell will almost certainly dissapear!

 

Simon.

[Rajaz]

Thanks gents this is great  

 

Jon - I will certainly do that, I have been around the TR with the grease gun but may a missed a few nipples or they may be blocked. The number at the bottom of the speedo is: SN6411/00AS  1100   (the 1100 has 2 arrows over the top of it I assume this is the revs/mile)  Cheers Jon

 

Tim - sorry but I made an error which I have now corrected in the original posting. I ment the speedo is running fast - in other words road speed 30 speedo showing 40 to 45.  I have recently had 4 new tyres fitted of the original spec so that should be OK. Many Thanks Tim

 

Simon - yes thats certainly the first thing I will do.  Thanks for confirming it for me.

 

I'll need to do a bit of work before taking it to the Malverns the weekend, once again cheers gents,

Allan  

[Rajaz]

Hi all,

Sorted out number 2 the petrol smell in the boot.  Yes I did go and buy a sender unit seal which cost me all of £0.35 but in the end I found a small leak from the fuel filter.  I have now replaced the filter and all seems OK.  

 

I also set about greasing the UJ's on the drive shafts.  Once I had purchased a small grease gun I was able to gain access to the "diff" end of the drive shafts OK.  However, I could not get onto the grease nipple on the wheel end of the drive shaft as it is recessed into the suspension drop arm.  Has anybody any idea how you gain access to grease this UJ.  Do you have to remove the drive shaft from the car?  or is it possible to fit an angled grease nipple?

 

All the best,

Allan

[tony13579]

Angled grease nipples!

 

 

I never stopped to wonder wether they existed... but they do in abundance... such a choice too!

[Rajaz]

Thanks tony,

I was aware that angled grease nipples existed but I was more concered wether it was possible to fit them to the UJ's due to the retrictions of the tight location and which exact type would fit.  This is one of the things I am hoping to resolve at the TR International meeting tomorrow.

 

Many Thanks,

Allan

[jonlar]

Hi Allen, see if you can get a flexible hose to fit between end of grease gun tube and applicator tip - did you get a high pressure one - spring loaded with lever to pump or the straight plunger type?

 

I've asked this question before but got no answers, has anyone found these nipples with extra weight and metal affect the balance of shafts at all?

[Rajaz]

Hi Jon,

I already had a high pressure grease gun with flexible hose but the head is too big and would not fit onto the greae nipple due to the gap on the UJ itself being too small.  And that was on the "diff" end, on the wheel end you've got no chance.  I went out and bought a small plunger type and was able to get onto the "diff" end OK and successfully pump grease into the UJ.  I'm a bit concerned, now knowing this, they probably have not been greased since fitted to the car.  Having said that it does not look too difficult to remove the hole assembly which I may end up doing.  

 

However, talking to my son, after another test drive, we both consider it is  more likely that the noise I am getting is suspension related.

 

Hopefully I'll get a few answers tomorrow but unfortunatly the weather is not looking too good and I am concerned about taking the TR.

 

Cheers Jon, all the best,

Allan

[jonlar]

Hi Allan, it is important to get lubricant into the shaft U/Js and the telescoping splined drive shafts.   If you got any doubts over whether this has been done recently, I'd suggest (strongly) you not use the car, you'll do more damage in a very few miles, than years of normal running.   This also applies to wheel bearings and front suspension links and moving parts.    I was quite amazed at how the grease had dried out in our car, in 10 - 12 years of storage.   I'd also suggest you change the brake fluid, and engine coolant and hoses, (including the heater connectors inside the car - nearly boiling water coming out at pressure onto your legs is not a good idea) and thoroughly check all rubber fuel hoses for cracking or perishing - I appreciate this is all a great pain the a**e, when you want to burning some rubber, but will save you, money in the long run - and even possibly your own or someone else's life.   Also change all oils in gearbox/overdrive and diff., re-builds are expensive!   If you consider removing the rear hubs from alloy trailing arms, use plenty of proper penetrating oil on the 6 nuts - may even need a little bit of heat, which secure to studs in the alloy.    These studs are tapped into the alloy with Fine thread instead of coarse and are renowned for stripping thread, which then has to be helicoiled.

[Rajaz]

Hi Jon,

You've putting the jitters up me now!  However, I have since spocken to the previous owner and he assures me it was serviced greased every year before the MOT.  But having said that it has been off the road for 4 years so I will most certainly take on board what you have suggested.  I was looking at the drive shafts at Malvern today and the answer seems to be extended grease nipples but I could not find any on sale.  So I will nip down to my local supplier to get some.

 

Is there any trick to getting lubricant into the splines and what lubricant do you use?

 

Cheers Jon and thanks for your concerns,

Allan

[jerrytr5]

Allan, have you checked the driveshaft to diff flange bolts? They tend to work loose which can cause curious noises. If you are in any doubt, removing the driveshafts is dead simple although the exhaust can sometimes be a pain as it obstructs access. I've always used coppaslip on the splines. Always use new nylocs on reassembly & a touch of loctite for good measure on the flange bolts. Don't overtighten the bearing housing to trailing arm securing nuts.

Jerry.

[Rajaz]

Thanks Jerry,some very useful tips there.  I thought it looked easy enough to drop down the shafts.  I'll have to set some time aside to have a go.

 

Many Thanks,

Allan

[jonlar]

Hi Allan, sorry didn't mean to give you the jitters, but a car that's not been used regularly can pass an MoT test with flying colours, and then when you're bowling along at 70 mph, if something fails through lack of lube or brakes on one side only or not at all etc., very nasty consequences can result!   My personal choice for D/S splines is Castrol Moly grease - what are others using?   Jerry's reference to overtightening the hub to alloy trailing arms is what I referred to above - where a UNF thread was used in comparatively soft and malleable metal and very easily stripped.

[Guest simonwtaylor]

I'm with you Jon, Molybdenum grease is my preffered choice too. Just on trailing arm studs, buy 'odd ended' UNF/UNC studs, and a heli-coil tool and you'll be well away!

I favour

 

www.namrick.co.uk

[BryanD]

I'd suggest pulling the outer driveshafts out, cleaning and manually regreasing the splines, replace the rubber gaiter and refit. You can also regrease the UJ whilst its out of the trailing arm. Th

 

As above, be careful with the studs. They don't want to be much more than hand tight.  New Nyloc nuts would also be a good idea.

[Richard Crawley]

My personal choice for D/S splines is Castrol Moly grease - what are others using?

Castrol ‘heavy’ grease (that’s all it’s called). This stuff is thick & helps quiet down the clonking if the splines are slightly worn, as most probably are! I strip, clean & repack every year.

[Richard Crawley]

As above, be careful with the studs. They don't want to be much more than hand tight

If you have a torque wrench, use it! If not, a good way of not ‘over egging’ it is to use just a 1/2" extension bar & with socket attached (no ratchet). Just tighten it as much as you can using the grip of your hand on the extension bar; most people wont be able to apply enough to strip the threads & I once checked the torque setting using this method & it's pretty close - but then I suppose it depends how strong you are!

[Rajaz]

Thanks Gents, as I've said before this is simply great you guys certainly know your stuff I would have no resevations buying a car off any of you and perhaps thats what I should have done.  However, I did pay as much as I could aford at the the time and its not a bad buy for what I paid.  I've got a solid TR6 that needs some TLC so I just need to put a bit of time in and sort things out.  But thats all part of the fun as long as the wife can put up with it.

 

Many many thanks,

Allan