SPRINT CONVERSION

[andyh]

Hello

can anyone offer advice, I'm fitting a sprint engine in my 7.

I've got a sprint lump and inlet manifold,but can the tr7 carbs

with K+N's I've already got be fitted and rejetted?

 

also what is wthe water transfer housing like that replaces the blanking plate on the back of the head and how does it allow water through for the heater?

 

thanks Andy

[tr7v8]

Rimmers catalogue lists the jets you need for standard TR7 HS6 carbs on a TR7, for a tubular manifold and K&N filters the part number would be CUD1104 probably one of the best places to buy them from, and they would be able to confirm the needle spec to your engine would be Burlen Fuel Systems in Salisbury their website with contact details is http://www.burlen.co.uk/

 

Tom Pringle

[alan_thomas]

Andy, Fitted a sprint engine to my 7 about 4 years ago. The water transfer housing is a simple plate that bolts on the back of the head. I thought it advisable to draw the heater water off here as per the original spec and fitted an ordinary plumbing 15mm elblow, screwed into a hole drilled in the original plate. A short length of pipe then connect to the hose to the heater.

 

Trouble was it was always weeping or coming loose and it is in a pig of a place to work on. After a year I replaced it with the correct water transfer housing from Rimmers.

 

Point of the story is yes, you can make something up to do the job or have peace of mind and an easy life by buying the correct bit at the start (about £35 I recall)

 

Another area to watch is the 4 branch manifolds available come very close to the main chassis rail and anything less than perfect engine mounts has the manifold hitting the chassis on acceleration (or was it braking?)

 

- Alan

 

PS - great engine! transforms the car

[Guest jeffremj]

I'm fitting a sprint engine in my 7.

I've got a sprint lump and inlet manifold,but can the tr7 carbs

with K+N's I've already got be fitted and rejetted?

You can use the TR7 carbs on a 16V engine, all I did was modify TR7 linkage to fit Sprint carbs (actually convert Sprint link bar to TR7 standards - a bit of brazing). This will allow you to use the TR7 accelerator cable and actuator items which are better than the original 16V items. To tune the TR7 carbs to a 16V spec, Triumphtune say use the BBT needle for standard specification AND K+N spec. I would richen up on fitting K+Ns and use BAT. What you have to remember is that you need to change the piston springs from a 'RED' (TR7) to a 'Yellow' (16V) !!!! The spring part number is AUC1167.

 

If you do get fouling due to carb height, you can fit TR8 subframe spacers to lower the engine - I did this even though no fouling occurred. You may also find the 4 branch exhaust manifold fouling the chassis rail. I had the opposite sided engine mount machined thinner so that it would pull the engine over by 1/4" or so - no more harshness.

 

HTHs,

MikeJ

[Guest jeffremj]

for a tubular manifold and K&N filters the part number would be CUD1104

A quick look at the needle specs shows that CUD1104 is BAE and the profile is very similar to BAT - it is the same for mid to full power and only differs positions 3 and 4 which is light throttle, BAE being richer. Given this, BAE looks the better of the 2.

[andyh]

thanks for all your answers

As i'm not fitting the engine till the winter ,I'm trying to gather all the parts and info i can ,rather than leave it until doing the job and waiting till i get stuck before i ask .

You could all regret answering this post cos i can see a hell of a lot more questions coming before i start -- let alone when i'm fitting it

 

cheers Andy

[Guest jeffremj]

thanks for all your answers

Here is another one:

 

You may find that the breather pipe from the cam cover to the carbs will foul the heater air scoop. You can either lower the subframe or fabricate another metal tube.

 

Here are pictures of the engine bay, notice that I have managed to fit the TR7 airbox, including an active air flap so that it runs nicely in winter:

 

http://www.jeffremj.plus.com/photos/PICT0267a.jpg

 

http://www.jeffremj.plus.com/photos/PICT0268a.jpg

 

http://www.jeffremj.plus.com/photos/PICT0269a.jpg

 

This is the power I managed to get out of the engine (140bhp):

 

http://www.jeffremj.plus.com/photos/tr7power4.jpg

 

BTW, whenI said I modified the engine mounting, it was the large metal casting, not the metalastic mount that attaches between it and the engine block.

[Guest jeffremj]

BTW, when I said I modified the engine mounting, it was the large metal casting, not the metalastic mount that attaches between it and the engine block.

For clarity, it is the blue thing, near the dipstick and to the rear of the alternator on this picture, that I modified:

 

http://www.jeffremj.plus.com/photos/PICT0267a.jpg