Engine Mount Location

[Guest Chris Draper]

OK, having spent the last 10 days taking the engine out & replacing the blown bottom end, it's finally back in with everything back on. Not a job I'd like to repeat in a hurry although I have learnt a lot through my mistakes!

 

But... the off-side exhaust manifold is in contact with the chassis rail.  I couldn't get the engine to sit in any different position on the mounts & it appears to be level so I'm a bit at a loss. As far as I can see, the mounts have some adjustment, but it only looks like it offers the possiblity of tilting the engine to one side or other rather than actually moving it sideways.

 

Anyone got any ideas how to sort this out?

[Guest ajttriumph]

I have had a look and cannot see how this could be possible if everything is assembled properly, some things to check

 

Are the mounts the correct ones ie same as before?

Are they on the correct way?

Has the one collapsed or torn when you put the engine in?

Has the upright from the subframe been bent?

Have you bolted the gearbox up yet? It may be obvious what the problem is when you do that.

 

Very intriging  ???

[Guest hodgie]

The off-side manifold is certainly a bit tighter due to steering arm etc, but the only real adjustment on the engine mounting is 'for' or 'aft' of the subframe uprights, which won't affect the lateral positioning.

 

Sounds to me that you have either bent the manifold taking the engine out, or the system needs a jiggle underneath to realign. I understand the frustration after all the hard work!

[Guest Chris Draper]

Thanks for the replies - the mounts are definitely on the right way round, are not torn or damaged, the gearbox is bolted up and the sub-frame is fine! The manifolds are still the same shape too - wish they weren't because they're always a b*gger to fit...

 

One question in relation to the mounts though; I assume that the mounting fits in front of the sub-frame arm on both sides, rather than behind?

[Guest hodgie]

Well, as with everything that depends!

Some suggest mounting them behind as this pushed the weight rearwards and thus improves distribution/ handling etc. but I think that is for the track boys. I found that mounting behind the uprights wouldn't allow my gearbox remote to fit up in properly, so had to move it forward or buy a sherpa remote.

Short answer - Yes!

Really can't fathom the problem for you though. If you're bolted to the head it has to be right or bent?

[Guest TR8 STEVE]

Chris,

 

I have exactly the same problem prior to removing my gearbox the o/s would touch the rail going round a left hand bend. Now i have had the box off to replace the clutch fork its touching when driving in a straight line    so i am thinking that as i had to remove the pipes running under the car to get the box out that they somehow have a way of affecting the manifolds when bolted back up. BUT if anybody has any other ideas feel free i to have new mountings good subframe and straight manifolds ??? .

[andrewt]

Hi Chris

Without wishing to repeat the other tips above, the engine mount steel work only fits one way, but the rubber can be fitted upside down. A factory rubber mount will have 'TOP' moulded into the rubber, a pattern one won't. It is possible (I think) to have one the right way up & the other the wrong way. This would almost certainly push the engine over to one side. It may also be possible to install both the wrong way up.

On my set up the steelwork is slotted to allow adjustment up & down the angle where the rubber bolts. The hole in the steel bonded into the rubber is also slotted. From memory this is slotted to allow the mount to move sideways, so if yours is slotted up & down it is worth double checking if my memory is wrong or if you have it the right way.

Personally i mount the rubber behind the subframe, this does, as hodgie says, bring the gearchange extension close to the box section behind the box, but it never knocks. (After some relieving!) I guess moving the engine forward would also improve chassis rail clearance so it is worth a try if all else fails.

Best of luck, but as said before, the block sizes haven't changed so either something else has or it's gone together with something not orientated correctly.

The 4.0 does fit as i also spent this weekend putting one in......should be running tonight once i get exhausts on it, fuel & coolant in.

Cheers

Andy.

[Guest Chris Draper]

Thanks again for the replies!

 

Andrew - I didn't take the rubber mounts off, just undid the 2 bolts each side securing to the sub-frame & transferred the whole engine mounts to the new block - there's no adjustment there, so that shouldn't change anything.

 

I know what you mean about the slots, but they looked diagonal to me, not horizontal, so only allow tilt, not side to side or up & down.

 

I've now given it up to the local garage to sort, so hopefully that'll be that. Had to book it in to sort the carburetion anyway - I put a Weber 500 on it (hence Holley for sale!!) & although they're ready jetted it doesn't seem right. It will run (which is always a relief after this amount of work!) but it wont idle properly & seems to like choke so I think it may need richer jets... does this ever end!!

[andrewt]

I didn't go down the carb route, i went with mappable fuel injection, so endless fun with a lambda meter, laptop and playing around. it is nice because the change is instant and the lambda gives a precise reading of what is going on.

Best of luck with the mounts etc then. Sounds like a puzzle if you used all the same bits though??

 

Cheers

Andy

[Guest hodgie]

With regard to the Weber Carb, DON'T vent the rockers into the PCV valve on the front. This is suggested in some places but make it run like a pig and not idle well. Just blank off the PCV valve and it'll run like a dream. 2 Dabs of the throttle and away you go, no choke etc.

A little tip from Stagman that helped me out of a predicament!

Hodgie

[Guest Chris Draper]

Thanks Hodgie. I'd kind of assumed that's where the brake servo pipe went - am I wrong?

[jonlar]

I didn't take the rubber mounts off, just undid the 2 bolts each side securing to the sub-frame & transferred the whole engine mounts to the new block - there's no adjustment there, so that shouldn't change anything.

Chris, just read your post, the question that comes to my mind - are the mounting points on the new block exactly the same, or is there a slight difference to the original?

[Guest Chris Draper]

Think they're the same, but can't really check now because I don't have the old block! Mounts bolted on with no problems though, so unless the block shape has changed I can't see there being a difference.

[Guest hodgie]

None of the blocks are ANY different externally (other than cross bolting). Difference is purely in stroke and bore and ancillaries. Front end and crank of course. You've certainly flumoxed (?) me.

Re Carb -go to www.edelbrock .com - gives you a nice diagram of what does what. Just blank the PCV for sure! Mine's in pieces at the mo' so can't remeber where servo goes, but not there.