trailing arm bracket mismatch

[zogabu]

Hi all TR enthusiasts,

 

I am in a big trouble.

 

I just finish rebuilding for my CR rear suspension, new UJ, poly bushes and the camber that was -2.5°, due to worn bushes is now a lot too positive!

 

The reason is that I have installed the trailing arm bracket at the wrong place. I use the sketch form the Moss part catalogue that shows the One notch bracket at the inner position and the other at the outer. I didn't notice that the sketch is valid only for TR5 and earlier TR6.

 

Now the question: is there a way to cross the brackets without dismantling the whole suspension (damper, spring, drive shaft, etc...) ?

 

In case I am obliged to do again the whole job, shall I use new cleveloc nuts to fit the flange, or reuse the ones that I just fit?

 

Thanks for your support.

 

Guy

[foster461]

Hi all TR enthusiasts,

 

I am in a big trouble.

 

I just finish rebuilding for my CR rear suspension, new UJ, poly bushes and the camber that was -2.5°, due to worn bushes is now a lot too positive!

 

The reason is that I have installed the trailing arm bracket at the wrong place. I use the sketch form the Moss part catalogue that shows the One notch bracket at the inner position and the other at the outer. I didn't notice that the sketch is valid only for TR5 and earlier TR6.

 

Now the question: is there a way to cross the brackets without dismantling the whole suspension (damper, spring, drive shaft, etc...) ?

 

In case I am obliged to do again the whole job, shall I use new cleveloc nuts to fit the flange, or reuse the ones that I just fit?

 

Thanks for your support.

 

Guy

 

 

Guy, look on the bright side. Now that you have done this project once it will go much faster the second time. If you have bled the brakes already just suspend the assembly with a wire and keep it out of the way.

 

Good article on rear suspension geometry here: http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Suspension/AdjRS/AdjRS.htm

 

I personally would use new nyloc nuts.

 

Stan

[zogabu]

Guy, look on the bright side. Now that you have done this project once it will go much faster the second time. If you have bled the brakes already just suspend the assembly with a wire and keep it out of the way.

 

Good article on rear suspension geometry here: http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Suspension/AdjRS/AdjRS.htm

 

I personally would use new nyloc nuts.

 

Stan

 

 

Thank you Stan,

 

You were right, the second time job is a lot easier.

 

Actually, compared with the initial procedure, I save some steps. As it may help one making the same mistake, hereafter is the job list :

 

1 remove the wheel

2 disconnect the hand brake fork end and the hand brake cable fitting on the trailing arm

3 disconnect the brake hose on the chassis side

4 using a jack, lift up the trailing arm

5 disconnect the drive shaft flange on the differential

6 disconnect the lower end of the damper (if telescopic damper is used)

7 slowly lower the jack

8 remove the spring

9 disconnect the trailing arm brackets on the chassis

10 carefully extract the assembly Trailing arm + brake drum + hub + drive shaft

11 cross the two brackets

 

reinstall the whole stuff in the reverse order.

 

It takes about 6 hours for both sides, the car is now looking a lot better !

 

 

Guy