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TR6 chassis and body shell


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Hi, Folks

Well after 3 years the day is during nearer when the body and chassis can come together again.Any tips, experiences anyone can offer regarding packing plates, rubbers etc will be very much appreciated.

The body shell which is going back is not the same one I took off or should I say fell off!!

Thanks Phil.

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Guest harry dent

Hi Phil,

Where do I start!.In the moss's excellent parts catalogue you will see where all the parts should go.They do a body mount kit with it all in.Highly recomended!.If, when you mount the body to chassis and find the gap at the rear top of the doors to big

then there is a simple remedy.At the extreme rear of the chassis add a further rubber shim or two.This will lift the back end slightly and close the gap.Try it with the shims on and not bolted up and then lift the back up and see before your very on eyes the gap now closes.I allways fit the body shell

using a engine hoist and rope with the A and B post's braced up.This way you can control the desent of the bodyshell to chassis and the final lining up.Take your time and keep looking

at the car from all angles and re-adjust if you are not happy with the fit.Good luck.

Regards Harry. TR5 nutter.  :D  :D

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Guest Neil Russell

I haven't done it yet, but my body is also non original. (The car that is)

 

My plan is to start at the front of the car and work back. after reading around the subject I am told that the body should be bolted down squarely using the floor mounting points,then squared up in this area then the front mounts,then squared up, then the rear mounts.and so on.

 

Then the body can be panelled up and doors etc hung

 

The final assembly should be around the rear cross tube which can be shimmed to align the door gaps.

 

Apparently assembling this way also checks the amount of hogging in a chassis, since this is always more pronounced at the rear end.

 

I have heard that it is not uncommon to revert to pullers to straighten a hogged chassis, or a chassis that has sagged slightly during the replacement of rear outriggers and t-shirt sections.

 

Doubtless some others on this forum will have done this before and might have some useful tips based on they're experiences. But this is my tuppence worth.

 

Let me know how you get on.

 

Neil.

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Niel,

I think it’s important that you work out & try & logic the different types of packers (canvas/rubber, thick/thin & solid aluminium), where they are used & why – a real pain. Most important is the location of the aluminium ones as it’s these that allow you to “adjust” the alignment – the canvas rubber ones will just compress & go out over time if you try it with those. I start in the centre floor section (not too critical here), then the front of the car & finally juggling the packers under the rear squab & rear chassis to get the door gaps right. If the chassis is straight, using the original packing set up should bring it almost spot on. I was quite worried when I ended up with a gap of around 6mm over at the rear end but it pulled down OK & the door gaps were then spot on.

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  • 1 month later...

Hi,All,

After 2 days spent in the garage burning the midnight oil the body and chassis are now one and the wings and the doors are on.

Thanks again for all the advice, I was amazed that the packing at the back of the chassis changed the door gaps so much. just proves the power of this forum..not sure I would have read about this tip in any books

Cheers Phil :D  :D

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I was amazed that the packing at the back of the chassis changed the door gaps so much. just proves the power of this forum..not sure I would have read about this tip in any books

Hi Phil,

& so was I! I've not seen this trick in print either & when I saw how much the door gaps were initially out of parallel on my car I was near to tears (& after taking so much trouble as well!) so I tried it almost in desperation. But it obviously won’t increase or decrease the overall gap at the bottom of the door if you've got that wrong! Pleased it went well for you.

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