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Hi I have a 1962 TR3B. Everything works except 1 thing.

The horn didn't work and a guy fiddled with the wires and now the horn works. That's good.

However, now my taillights don't work so I can only drive in the daylight. The brake lights do work though.

 

The horn and rear lights don't work simultaneously. Is there is short? What could be the cause? Thx.

 

p.s. - Dave L. - I'm the Beta Grill person from June. I can't reply to your topics any longer. Don't know why. I went to the TR Special topic afterwards and posted there for you as well. Thx.

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There is an inline fuse that protects the rear lights and dash lights, although that doesn't explain why you have no rear lights after the horn was fixed, the wiring diagram is here,

 

http://triumph.daveola.com/NOTES/Wiring-Diagram.pdf

 

The rear light feed comes from the light switch, through the fuse and on to the rheostat, then onto the rear lights, it shouldn't take you to long to find the problem.

Steve

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There is an inline fuse that protects the rear lights and dash lights, although that doesn't explain why you have no rear lights after the horn was fixed, the wiring diagram is here,

 

http://triumph.daveola.com/NOTES/Wiring-Diagram.pdf

 

The rear light feed comes from the light switch, through the fuse and on to the rheostat, then onto the rear lights, it shouldn't take you to long to find the problem.

Steve

 

Hello Steve. I have a question: WHERE IS THAT IN-LINE FUSE LOCATED? (I am not sure that I have it.)

 

GR8968 (you gotta name?), my TR3B was rebuilt from the ground up, with the wires all mostly the same color, and wired very "creatively." My horn problem was due to the contacts needing cleaning. My windshield wiper problem was due to the weak ground connection (remedied by soldering the ground). My point here is that you car's wiring may or may not remotely resemble the great diagram that Steve provided you.

 

Lastly, count your blessings: Your brake lights work! I have the pressure switch, not very effective unless I STOMP on the brakes. Over the winter, I hope to replace it with the switch that goes on the brake pedal.

 

Good luck, always nice to hear about another "B" making a comeback!

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Hi George

According to the diagram, on US spec cars, it should be behind the dash between the lighting switch and the rheostat, but over the course of 50 yrs the wiring may have "evolved" :unsure:

Steve

Edited by Steve R
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Hi George

According to the diagram, on US spec cars, it should be behind the dash between the lighting switch and the rheostat, but over the course of 50 yrs the wiring may have "evolved" :unsure:

Steve

 

Thanks, Steve. I hope that it is there. My pessimism is based on the following: no 2-speed wipers, no rheostat on dash lights, and no windshield washer, all of which were standard on the car. Interesting note: the lighting switch KNOB was the rheostat knob, so I replaced it with a knob without the rheostat arrows. I kept the old knob in case I ever get a rheostat. I am still happy with the dashboard, as I got the scuttle vent to work properly, so everything on the dash works. Knock wood.

 

Although (you folks can confirm this for me), as I remember my TR3A, the heater knob had a distinct CLICK when you turned it on and off. This switch has no click, so I just turn it all the way to the left and HOPE that it is off. I don't feel any air coming out when I put my hand under the heater doors, so I assume that it is off.

 

Also (you folks can also confirm this for me), as I remember my TR3A, there was a significant difference in the amount of air coming from the heater when the switch was on low vs. high. On this heater, the difference is barely negligible.

 

Thanx in advance.

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Thank U, Gentleman: I will have someone help me check it out.

Name: I prefer GR8968. My car is from TX. I noticed one of lists your location as TX.

I'm not a geekette or a techie. The car has been in TX it's whole life until I bought it in '07.

 

I will print out all the above and go to a mechanic or club member to help me. Thank you.

I will let you know what happens hopefully before winter sets in or else I will have to wait to Spring to give update.

Thank U!

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Hello again Gentemen:

I see your from England and Dallas, TX.

My car is from a suburb 20 mins. from TX. Powder Blue, my fave color for this car.

I was in England last year for wedding and reception in Oxford (Oxfordshire), Kensington Hall.

I stayed in The Bears Inn down the street from one of the royal family's palaces (forget his name...but he was tall and walked around the grounds outside amongst the visitors).

 

Nice to meet you both. Thanx for the wiring instructions!!! Cool.

 

My car is much older than I am and I can barely reach the clutch being 5' 2.5". I'll have to wear platform shoes to fully depress the clutch. High heels are too thin. :-)

Edited by GR8968
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What is a rheostat?

 

 

It's the panel lights brightness control.

Sorry George I don't have a heater, it went to the US with one, but came back without. If you spot it somewhere..... :D

Steve

Edited by Steve R
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The inline fuse is originally located under / behind the centre of the dash, between the spaghetti of wiring coming from the small gauges on the center console. Mind you, we had a conversation on this forum about this inline fuse around 4 years ago. Try to perform a search on the TR2/3/3A forum and search for a posting made in December or Janunary 2004/2005. I don't have a pic of the fuse on this computer. If you want a pic, I have to dig it up on an other computer later this day!

 

Menno

 

And you like powder blue cars?

 

P1040483.jpg

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