StevedTR4A Posted March 28, 2009 Report Share Posted March 28, 2009 Hi all I have read in associated threads that glycol based brake fluid should be flushed through with new every two years. The TR3A I bought recently was probably last bled in 2003 and the brakes are firm with no sponginess at all. The car has only covered 2000 miles since 2003. If the wisdom is that I should flush out and refill with fresh Dot 4 could the experienced please confirm 1) Other threads indicate bleeding problems and discuss easybleed and vacuum systems etc. I intended to use the recommended method ie rubber tube in a jar as per the manual together with an patient assistant. Isn't this good enough? 2) Working from furthest to nearest point. How much do I push through at each point? Just until there are no bubbles? 3) I have some new braided hoses "in stock" is this a good time to replace? 4) If I do the clutch line as well shoud I do this before or after the brakes? You probably guessed that I havn't done this before so any hints welcome. Thanks Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Clive T Posted March 28, 2009 Report Share Posted March 28, 2009 Hi allI have read in associated threads that glycol based brake fluid should be flushed through with new every two years. The TR3A I bought recently was probably last bled in 2003 and the brakes are firm with no sponginess at all. The car has only covered 2000 miles since 2003. If the wisdom is that I should flush out and refill with fresh Dot 4 could the experienced please confirm 1) Other threads indicate bleeding problems and discuss easybleed and vacuum systems etc. I intended to use the recommended method ie rubber tube in a jar as per the manual together with an patient assistant. Isn't this good enough? 2) Working from furthest to nearest point. How much do I push through at each point? Just until there are no bubbles? 3) I have some new braided hoses "in stock" is this a good time to replace? 4) If I do the clutch line as well shoud I do this before or after the brakes? You probably guessed that I havn't done this before so any hints welcome. Thanks Steve Hi Steve, 1)Yes. 2)Yes. 3)Yes. 4)After the brakes. Reagrds, Clive. 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alec Pringle Posted March 28, 2009 Report Share Posted March 28, 2009 Hi Steve, to add to Clive's comments - you need to see new clear fluid (it'll be a different shade to the old fluid) with no bubbles. And remember to press the brake pedal firmly but steadily - too fast and you create bubbles ! Cheers, Alec Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bob Brennan Posted March 28, 2009 Report Share Posted March 28, 2009 Hi Steve- Since the Mrs and me will be doing this tomorrow morning, I too have been reading all the back posts. I thought the directions on my bottle of "North American Silicone Brake Fluid were pretty concise: Method One (requires two people) Close all bleed screws. Start with the wheel furthest from the master cylinder. Slip a transparent bleed hose into a clean container partially filled with fluid at all times. The first person (wife) depresses the brake pedal SLOWLY (take 3-5 seconds). THEN the second person (you) opens the bleed screw. He then closes the bleed screw BEFORE the first person (wife) SLOWLY releases the pedal (3-5 seconds). Continue until there no evidence of air in the bleed hose. Continue with remaining wheels working from the longest to the shortest distance from the master cylinder. Top off master cylinder as needed to prevent reintroducing air into the lines. REMEMBER: 1. DEPRESS PEDAL SLOWLY 2. OPEN BLEED SCREW 3. CLOSE BLEED SCREW 4. RELEASE PEDAL SLOWLY 5. KISS WIFE SLOWLY Bob Brennan S. Freeport, ME Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Menno van Rij Posted March 28, 2009 Report Share Posted March 28, 2009 (edited) I remember a posting by Don from a few years back re. silicon fluid. (Correct me if I'm wrong!!). The issue was about air bubbles in the brake fluid. Especially silicone fluid is very tricky when it comes to bubbles in the system. First, be very careful when pouring the stuff into the system. Try to prevent shaking etc., to prevent unwanted air bubbles to be trapped inside the reservoir and brake pipes. I remember that Don suggested that you leave the newly poured in silicone fluid standing for a few days, without bleeding. Be sure to keep the lid off from the reservoir, that way, trapped air (millions of tiny bubbles) can work there way up and can escape. Silicone fluid does not attrack moist, so there's no harm leaving the cap off, provided you make sure that there's no debri that can enter the reservoir. So, if you want to use silicone fluid, just pour it in and wait an other week before you start bleeding the brakes. But, I'm sure Don can explain this a lot better that I can! Menno Edited March 28, 2009 by Menno van Rij Quote Link to post Share on other sites
StevedTR4A Posted March 29, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2009 Thanks Clive, Alec, Bob and Menno. Thats a great help just need to convince my wife that it is time well spent. Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted March 29, 2009 Report Share Posted March 29, 2009 (edited) Hi Steve There is an easier way ! rather than the wife pump pedal with valve open you end up with an empty reservoir because you have to keep topping it up. Alternative way brake fluid in a squeezy type container for topping up all valves closed pump pedal until restristiction is felt maintain pressure open rear nearside valve first pedal drops and close valve top up fluid repeat for the rest. Regards Neil Edited March 29, 2009 by ntc Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Badfrog Posted March 30, 2009 Report Share Posted March 30, 2009 Hi Steve, I wouldn't bother with silicone. The new mineral liquid DOT5.1 is excellent. Don't be confused by its number. It should have been called 4.1. I strongly recommend braided hoses. I just installed a full set in my TR4 and I now have amazing modern car-like braking. In consequence I feel entitled to drive a bit faster. Mankind is an uncanny species. cheers, Badfrog Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR Doctor Posted March 31, 2009 Report Share Posted March 31, 2009 Hi SteveThere is an easier way ! rather than the wife pump pedal with valve open you end up with an empty reservoir because you have to keep topping it up. Alternative way brake fluid in a squeezy type container for topping up all valves closed pump pedal until restristiction is felt maintain pressure open rear nearside valve first pedal drops and close valve top up fluid repeat for the rest. Regards Neil Even easier Speed Bleeders Quote Link to post Share on other sites
StevedTR4A Posted March 31, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2009 Thanks guys, Definitely will fit the braided hoses. No one mentioned the Vizibleed one man aid which is uses a non return valve. Have read mixed reviews elsewhere but in principle it should work? Cheers Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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