It won't start and I think I've tried everything

[Kev White]

I'm getting to the point where all I want to do is set fire to it!

 

To cut a veeery long story short, I inadvertantly connected the battery up the wrong way around and as a consequence chargrilled the Luminition Power pack. A swift £45 notes later - still no joy; must have cooked the opto-electronic eye too. A rapid replacement of that and hey presto, still no sparks!.........what else could it be. Surely I haven't buggered the coil too. Thank you Mr Robsport......still no sparks. So this is where I come begging and pleading......where the fook am I going wrong.

I have even stuck the classic points back in and still no joy with the arcy sparky.

 

I have 12v on the +ve side of the coil. I have 12v on the -ve side of the coil. I have didly squat coming out of the the HT lead from the top of coil. I am suspecting that I have a bad/no earth which is used to short out the coil which in turn generates the lovely blue spark which has gone the way of the Dodo.

 

SO, all you experts out there, I have measured both coils (both of which incidentally were new) and both read zero ohms across +ve and -ve with a voltmeter. I keep reading about ballast resisters but the trusty Haynes Manual refers not in the old index........does anyone have any idea where this elusive ballast resister resides.

 

Any pointers would be gratefully recieved.

 

PS I had the damn thing running before I put the battery in the wrong way - DOH! Oh what I wouldn't do for a yellow kit kat right now!!

 

Yours, in exasperation

Kev

 

PS, 2.0L FHC, the only mod she had/has is the Luminition Electronic ignition which baint be wurkin! HEEEEEEELP!

[DaveR]

I'm getting to the point where all I want to do is set fire to it!

 

To cut a veeery long story short, I inadvertantly connected the battery up the wrong way around and as a consequence chargrilled the Luminition Power pack. A swift £45 notes later - still no joy; must have cooked the opto-electronic eye too. A rapid replacement of that and hey presto, still no sparks!.........what else could it be. Surely I haven't buggered the coil too. Thank you Mr Robsport......still no sparks. So this is where I come begging and pleading......where the fook am I going wrong.

I have even stuck the classic points back in and still no joy with the arcy sparky.

 

I have 12v on the +ve side of the coil. I have 12v on the -ve side of the coil. I have didly squat coming out of the the HT lead from the top of coil. I am suspecting that I have a bad/no earth which is used to short out the coil which in turn generates the lovely blue spark which has gone the way of the Dodo.

 

SO, all you experts out there, I have measured both coils (both of which incidentally were new) and both read zero ohms across +ve and -ve with a voltmeter. I keep reading about ballast resisters but the trusty Haynes Manual refers not in the old index........does anyone have any idea where this elusive ballast resister resides.

 

Any pointers would be gratefully recieved.

 

PS I had the damn thing running before I put the battery in the wrong way - DOH! Oh what I wouldn't do for a yellow kit kat right now!!

 

Yours, in exasperation

Kev

 

PS, 2.0L FHC, the only mod she had/has is the Luminition Electronic ignition which baint be wurkin! HEEEEEEELP!

 

 

With the points closed (on load condition) you should have 6 volts (due to the ballast resistor) on the coil + and no volts on the coil - . With the points closed if you still have 12 volts either side of the coil then I would suspect the wiring and connections between the coil - and the points.

[Rassilon]

Kev your in Bridgewater aren't you?

 

I assume you checked the fuses & all other electricals work as before. If you want a side by side comparison to assist in FF, just holler.

 

IIRC while it's turning over, the starter relay shorts out the ballast resistor, to allow a higher Voltage to the coil, to offset the Voltage drop as a result of the load of the starter motor turning over.

 

When you say no sparks, just where are you checking for HT, out of the coil itself or via a HT lead from the distributor?

Edited July 25, 2007 by Rassilon

[Kev White]

Kev your in Bridgewater aren't you?

 

I assume you checked the fuses & all other electricals work as before. If you want a side by side comparison to assist in FF, just holler.

 

IIRC while it's turning over, the starter relay shorts out the ballast resistor, to allow a higher Voltage to the coil, to offset the Voltage drop as a result of the load of the starter motor turning over.

 

When you say no sparks, just where are you checking for HT, out of the coil itself or via a HT lead from the distributor?

 

Everything points to the coil, but I've got two brand new ones....next step is an auto electrician cos I am physically close to weeping over this with frustration!

 

Where abouts in Bridgie are you?

Kev

[Rassilon]

Actually in Exeter, but at Somerset County Hall Mon - Fri (& anywhere in Somerset, depending on what work requires).

 

Bridgewater is but a hop up the road.

[DaveR]

Everything points to the coil, but I've got two brand new ones....next step is an auto electrician cos I am physically close to weeping over this with frustration!

 

Where abouts in Bridgie are you?

Kev

 

Ken, rotate the distributor untill the points close. Then check the voltage each side of the coil. You should have 6 volts on the + terminal of the coil and no volts on the - terminal of the coil. if the point are closed and you still have 12 volts either side of the coil then you do not have a connection between the - terminal on the coil and the points.

 

Tell me what you find.