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Cars Owned:

Found 1,212 results

  1. Matt1969

    UJ bolts

    Hi Are both sets of UJ bolts special in anyway, or will anything in mild steel do? Matt
  2. Hi found a TR6 steering wheel in the garage it is 14.5 inch diameter think it's from a CR model can anyone confirm david
  3. Hi has anybody got any idea, while driving my TR6 2 days ago going round left hand corners we hear a nocking noise we think coming from the rear of the car. It sounded like nock nock nock only when cornering at a bit of speed. I look forward to your feedback. John
  4. I've just bought a TR6 (CP) with triple webers (40s), fast road cam, phoenix sport manifold+exhaust and lumenition optronic performance ignition. I think the compression ratio is around 10:1. It seems to go well (the webers appear to be well tuned) but I am not sure if the timing is optimised for maximum power from the modified engine. I would appreciate your thoughts and recommendations for a distributor timing curve - i.e. the static timing, the maximum timing degrees at high rpm and roughly what rpm this maximum should be reached?
  5. TonyC

    EFI fuel pump

    Hi all, Any of you EFI guys recognise this fuel pump - see pics. This is part of the Webcon Pro5 EFI setup. This pump is starting to become noisy and I want to replace it. However existing pump has no identifiers on it - no brand, model ref, serial number or pressure rating. Webcon pumps although similar in size would require mods to the fuel delivery piping and electrical connections. A direct replacement would be nice! Many thanks, TonyC
  6. elclem1

    123 dizzy!!!!!

    Hi all I have any annoying problem with a 123 dizzy and wonder if anyone has any ideas with what to do next. The dizzy is fitted to a Webber’s carbs engine with a fast road cam. It will not start the car. I have set up iaw the instructions and I am using a coil and ht leads supplied by power spark. The engine would not start so I changed the dizzy to an old one on points and behold it started. I put the 123 back in and nothing doing. Out it came again and in went the 123 and nothing! I changed the coil nothing, I changed the leads - nothing. Went back to the original and she started first turn. After a frustrating morning I contacted 123 in holland and they were extremely helpful with a number of suggestions but still nothing doing. They then suggested it was a faulty unit and I sent it back to them for investigation. They have checked it to find nothing wrong and suggest it may be the way it is set up? Grrr i now wonder if anyone else has had this problem? I have fitted 123’s before without a problem but this one is proving difficult. Any suggestions out there please? I understand that some HT leads may not be compatible with use on a 123? I am looking at fitting mangy cours leads but it’s not a cheap fix to get wrong.
  7. Evening All. I have knock (possibly better described as a clunk) from the drivetrain when I lift the clutch and the wheels start to move. I can also hear it at low speeds when releasing the clutch after changing gears 2 - 4. Cannot hear it at high speed. The car drives beautifully apart from this. Could this be the problem? The play seems to be only in the nearside diff yoke and I cannot detect any play in either side shaft splines or UJ's which are all new. Can anyone tell me what the problem might be here and what the fix might involve? The diff has not been rebuilt, but CTM replaced the seals and bearings about 5 years ago after which it sat in my garage during my re-build. Many thanks, Sean
  8. Hi all Had the frame blasted, powder coated and bought various bits to refurb it. Tightened up some of the rivets but others so worn drilled out and replaced with nylocs and bolts welded in, ground to look like rivets. Come to fitting the window top seals but before I fit them just want to check I have the rubber lip flap the correct way; facing outward? Thanks Andy
  9. I'm looking for a TR6 and have chance to buy an early (69) model. It was originally a European car which has bee repatriated and converted to RHD. Would I be wise to look for a later CP car and does the conversion from LHD lessen the value? I have circa 20K to spend but desirability is more important than cost - would 25K buy a stunner? I have little experience of current day values - I payed £1,000 for a 1971 car in 1974 with less than 14,000 miles on it and sold in in 1979 for more than that. I know now I should have kept her. (ERX13K currently on SORN) How times have changed but how much? Your comments will be much appreciated. Cheers
  10. Hi, I have stainless steel braided injector leads on my 1971 TR6, I have noticed some weeping from the top of the No.5 lead connector at the banjo on the MU. Does anyone know where I can get a single replacement lead complete with connectors? Appreciate any advice Thanks
  11. I'd prefer not to have to do this so I thought I'd ask before I start cutting into the mounting brackets. The captive nuts and cages are both missing can the bumpers be fitted without or will I have to cut the brackets and make some new cages. Or is there another option? Thanks Andy
  12. Evening folks By way of another project to keep busy I was thinking of recovering mine as the crash pads have gone brittle and have a few splits rather than buying new. The dash top is crispy as well. Anyone able to direct me to where I can obtain the closest matched material to the original to recover them. Thanks Andy
  13. PodOne

    MX5 seats

    Hi all Familiar with these seats from past projects/cars but not for a 6 so before I source a pair which are the most comfortable and fit the best from peoples experience. MKI or MKII ? Thanks Andy
  14. Hello Has anyone got a wiring diagram for 1973 English CR series Tr6.i have searched the web, & my Haynes manual doesn't have the year, nor does the works manual either.Any help will be much appreciated
  15. Evening all Just going through my boxes of bits and found the Lucas alternator (original?) which needs a service/testing. No way to test it now as two of the case bolts were sheared off but before I do as usual I have a few questions; The Tag reads 23636A 15ACR 12v 1971 1) What output is this and is it original spec? The date suggests it has been replaced I intend using a new loom from Autosparks and fit a radio, Bosch pump, Halogen lights and keep the ammeter so will this unit cope if I can rebuild it can it be uprated to increase the amps. 2) When I have stripped it down I need the following; a) Three of the long case bolts as all now sheared and needed drilling out/tapping; anyone know the size or have some kicking around they don't want? b) Bearings both gritty; anyone know the sizes c) Brushes/black plastic diode block Anyone know if there is a service pack? 3)If its not worth bothering with what unit should I go for? I'd like to save it if I can given its taken best part of the afternoon to strip! Thanks all Andy
  16. Evening. I would like to fit a heater valve that actually turns the heater off, what are the current recommendations ? Thanks Mark
  17. As the title says i had a problem fitting the four seasons heater valve, the old one came out with no issue, I fitted the new one with some thread sealant even the rubber pipe went back on just fine, But I wasn't sure how tight to do it up, and so as the thread sealant says you can reposition up to four hours I thought I'll tighten it some more to be sure, that's when I noticed the valve would no longer turn with the lever! I took it off again and I can't see where I've bent or pinched the housing, but it didn't take a lot for the top part to start spinning instead of the valve inside, so it's had it. If i get another one, how do I put it back on? How tight is enough? Would the thread sealant (permatex) have held if had I just left it the 72 hours of curing time the first time? Cheers Gareth
  18. Hi All, Not sure if there is any interest, but I’m helping a neighbour/buddy of mine to restore a 1976 NA Spec TR6. In actuality, there are two cars involved with the other being a 73 that was purchased as a parts/body donor for the 76. We have spent 18 days stripping the two cars down (from as little as two hours per day to as many as eight hours per day). I have made a playlist of our efforts on YouTube if anyone would like to follow along. Cheers Tush
  19. Is there anyone in this great club prepared to lend me a Lift-the-Dot punch for the duration of fitting my tonneau. I thought about buying one from Moss but saw the price and needed a defibrillator thereafter. I’m in the London Group and happy to collect. Or posting is an option if the lockdown proves to be an obstacle. Reimbursement of costs a given. I’m sure we can come to some arrangement concerning compensation. In the same vein I have road spring AND valve spring compressors (used once) if anyone requires these on loan. These too are an expensive tool to use once .
  20. ​I have recently had to replace my sun visors and thought it would be worth sharing the following information & pictures on different visors to help others - hopefully the attached pictures help show the issue. ​My original visor is the middle one of 3 in the attached picture - as you can see the top visor (from TR Shop and same shape as the one supplied by Moss) is a different shape, while the bottom one (from John Skinner) is the same as my original visor. I tried fitting the TR Shop visor, but the indent on the right hand side means the short inner pivot bar (not shown) does not reach the rubber retainer clip once fitted into the visor - I would have had to move the clip to use the visor, resulting in an extra hole in the windscreen frame, or slide the visor along the main pivot bar - but then the visor would hit the mirror. I did a search online and found the John Skinner visor - the same shape as my original and with fitted inner pivot bar. This engages with the retainer clip OK and you can also see how it drops down without fouling the mirror. ​Hope this is of help to someone. ​Steve
  21. Hi all, Lost the clutch. Pedal to the floor and surprise surprise no fluid in the master cylinder. Car hasn’t been driven over the winter save for a couple of mile blast a couple of weeks ago. There is no evidence of fluid leak on garage floor but that aside inspection of the slave cylinder shows a lot of wear marks on the piston, even if the seal doesn’t look bad. Anyway decided that a new slave is in order, but the one removed has County S02 10 or SO2 10 and 7/8” on outer casting surface. I see that all the usual suspects have the standard 1” slave available with the exception of Revington who also list a 7/8” bore alternative at twice the price. Now I would like replacement to be similar to existing, but to muddy the water a little more the bore of the existing cylinder is actually 1” and not 7/8” as shown on the casting. Anyone come across anything similar, and knowing that there is a lot of scepticism around regarding spare part quality are there any good recommendations for a replacement source? Would be also good to know what the actual size of the standard 1” bore slave is - 1 1/8” maybe? I attach a couple of pics for reference. As usual many thanks in anticipation for all gems of wisdom from what is the best knowledge database on the planet. thanks, TonyC
  22. Hi I am looking to replace my (soggy,saggy and perforated) original Gearbox tunnel, there seem to be a number of different materials (plastic or fibreglass) and suppliers. Does anyone have any recommendations? Thanks Rich
  23. Hi aIl I'm in need of the bracket numbered 29 in the diagram below if anyone has one going spare I appreciate it as even Conrad hasn't got one! Thanks Andy
  24. In case anyone is looking for one, I spotted this ROM for sale on ebay. Price is currently very low so possibly a great bargain for someone. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triuph-Original-TR5-TR6-Repair-Operation-Manual/303462077421?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 This is the version of the manual that I have and that I used throughout my restoration. No connection, just spotted it. Sean
  25. I have a load of original Girling 16P brake calipers that are about to be refurbished by Bigg Red. I have had one pair finished in black to go behind the black wire wheels on my BRG racecar. my plan is to have these plated (not painted) in either the original type gold or silver. There will be new pistons and seals etc. Basically, they will be fully reconditioned and ready to fit. The point of this post is to ask that if anyone is looking for a pair and wants then done in a particular finish, let me know as I will be taking to be done next week. Price depends on finish. Final point is that these are original castings and not the repro ones!! David
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