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  1. Hello Everyone, We are a bit stuck and would welcome any help or suggestions please. Having finally got round to changing the diff mounts on my 1972 TR6 I now have another worrying issue as no oil pressure. Probably my fault due to lack of use as she has been sat waiting to come out into the sunshine for over 2 years, but oil pressure was fine when last used. That said she fires up and ironically seems to be running fine, except now no oil pressure. Obvioulsy I have only run her for a few seconds at a time whilst trying to sort her out. So far we have taken off the pre
  2. Hi All, I have noticed a slight weep of oil from the cylinder head gasket of my TR5. It is on the left had side of the engine on the same side as the engine number pad. If I clean the area and run the engine statically the leak doesn't appear but after a 100 mile or so run there is oil present along the length of the joint. It is not possible to see where the oil initially emerges as it runs along the joint. I have found a number of posts about this for the TR5 and TR6, so it seems to be a common problem. There are a number of solutions offered but at this stage I don't want to remove the
  3. Hi Folks This seems to be a common issue after reading a few threads with these cars. The holy grail seems to be to achieve an equal gap from top to bottom. Some say the gaps from the factory were variable at best so I thought I'd been very careful when welding everything up to achieve something better. Alas I have an issue which is bugging me after an afternoon of fiddling about. The glasses are original as far as I can tell - Triplex. The rest of the door/wing(s) panel gaps are spot on so I'm not altering them! Both sides are parallel along their whole lengths as in the pictu
  4. I spotted a lovely red TR6 belonging to a fellow register member from Ayrshire classic car club. A long way to Harris from Ayrshire on amazing roads. Well Done.
  5. I have 4 pot calipers fitted to my 6, added as part of a rebuild by PO. I am in process of fitting new discs and of course pads and hit a very frustrating problem. My own notes from a previous brake clean and new pad fitment shows that the caliper pad set-up is from a 79 - 83 Toyota Hilux 2.2 Petrol 4 wheel drive pick-up. I used this info to buy pads previously. However looking at brake manufacturers catalogues on-line that make and type of vehicle is no longer listed so I have begun the trawl through on-line data to try and identify the pads that I need. I am not having much success. I
  6. Hi all, looking for new seats for my 6. I have the 70-72 US type with built in head rest at the minute which either need a complete overhaul or swapping for a new set. Just wondering if any members have a new/excellent quality set they are looking to sell? Have to be in black. thanks.
  7. The indicators have stopped working on my 1974 TR6 can you please give me some advice on how to troubleshoot this. The flasher unit looks new - its round not oblong, but of course that doesn't mean it is working. I also dont know if this is important but when I tried the indicators in the garage there was a click on the passenger side behind the dash and then nothing. It hasnt done this again turning the ignition switch on and off. The fuse is ok. Could a blown bulb cause the problem? I'm not an electrician but I know how to use an ammeter and follow basic instructions. Any help wou
  8. I thought I'd post this just in case others have the same problem in the future. I was in the loverly process of fitting the windscreen washer/wheel boxes and washer PVC pipe and had bought the relevant rubber pedestals, nozzles, brass pipes and tube from Rimmers a few years ago in preparation. As per normal for Rimmers the parts don't fit. Namely the brass tubes are too small for the supplied PVC washer pipe and unfortunately I can't locate the old ones. The PVC pipe was simply too big and wouldn't grip the brass tube, given the difficulty in getting to these items they need to be a good
  9. Morning all. My ongoing journey of discovery with Percy has today led me to the boot - the fuel pump to be specific. Its all working fine (touch wood) but it struck me I don't know as much about it as I probably should. Its a Bosch type pump and I have attached a photo showing what I believe each part to be - confirmation of my labelling would be a good start. More importantly, perhaps, I am looking for some advice on the filter or filters. How often should these be cleaned and / or replaced? I believe the pump has only been in there for less than 2 years but I've done nothing to
  10. Bob (who has worked with me for many years) has a fully rebuilt TR6 (PI) engine for sale.... Anyone that knows him will realise that he builds a superb engine and has been doing so for many many years professionally...... The engine has been totally stripped and is in the process of being built back up as we speak. The Short Back Crank has been machined / balanced and re-ground and will be fitted with new shells etc. It is worth noting a long back crank is also available if required. At this stage you can specify camshaft etc....The pistons etc are new and have all been balanced. The block
  11. Having no experience of TR6 water pumps, other than the Stanpart original that I removed from my engine a while back, I find that I need to call upon the collective expertise of the Forum. I recently (last week) bought a new water pump from one of the usual sources. It arrived in a box that states that it is Made in India by County. Removing from the sealed plastic bag it passed the visual inspection (looks like a TR6 water pump) but when I came to spin the nose I found that it was quite resistant to spinning. It moves smoothly but it doesn't spin freely, having applied a flick of the
  12. Hi folks Just cleaning up the windscreen that came with the car which I was hoping to reuse. Unfortunately its begun to delaminate and has a bad scratch so I've decided its time to replace it. Looking at the usual suspects the price's are as low as £100 or from Pilkington £360 without delivery from any. Can anyone advise if the cheaper screens are a good fit and who would you recommend? Thanks Andy
  13. A thread elsewhere on Forum reminded me of how often folks use the wrong size spanner . . . . . and regret it. Herewith a link which I have mentioned in years gone by, updated and expanded since last I mentioned it . . . . . . A most useful table of relative sizes of jaws, vast quantities of useful advice re spanner handling, and more follow-up links for even more specialist data than you could ever need. http://www.sat.dundee.ac.uk/psc/spanner_jaw.html Cheers Alec
  14. Does anybody have some feedback about Ashford Chroming. They have a professional web site that looks great, but so do many companies. http://www.ashfordchroming.com/ Thanks in Advance Dave
  15. Hi all is there anyone out there who has a CR oil pressure gauge in good condition that they can post to France, please regards Clem
  16. Hi all, Lost the clutch. Pedal to the floor and surprise surprise no fluid in the master cylinder. Car hasn’t been driven over the winter save for a couple of mile blast a couple of weeks ago. There is no evidence of fluid leak on garage floor but that aside inspection of the slave cylinder shows a lot of wear marks on the piston, even if the seal doesn’t look bad. Anyway decided that a new slave is in order, but the one removed has County S02 10 or SO2 10 and 7/8” on outer casting surface. I see that all the usual suspects have the standard 1” slave available with the exception of Revin
  17. I spotted a lovely red TR6 belonging to a fellow register member from Ayrshire classic car club. A long way to Harris from Ayrshire on amazing roads. Well Done.
  18. Hi, I’m a newbie and I apologise in advance for my lacking engineering knowledge. I have owned my ‘73 CR model for one week. It is a steep learning curve but I’m really excited to understand how things work and to do as much maintenance as my limited knowledge, the manuals and the Internet forums allow. All in all it seems to run well, have been reasonably well looked after, and have had attention on and off over the years. After the journey back from TRGB, thanks Gary, and a few local trips it seemed to be stuttering a little. Following advice I took it out for a blast and that
  19. The oldest, and third oldest surviving TR6s are coming home to Warwickshire - not far from where they were built about 45 1/2 years ago. Derek Graham is all set to come and inspect these significant cars once they arrive in mid-April. We'll keep you posted of developments. David
  20. Hi Folkes Had one of these https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-148621 on back order from Rimmers for around 2 years and still no stock. A small part I know but has anyone got a spare they would be willing to part with? Thanks Andy
  21. I’m after some help with refitting my windscreen surround. I have read through most of the related threads, mostly before I started the job but I think I may have a “new” problem. I took the surround off as it was beginning to look very tatty and the scuttle seal was beginning to crack, thinking that a lick of paint and a new seal would make it look as good as new - wrong! Once I’d stripped out and repaired the rotten bottom corner it came up lovely in satin black. The new seal arrived from an eBay seller as rimmers and moss have no stock until August and I set to fitting it, af
  22. April Issue 297 of TR Action carries an article about poor starting associated with braided injector pipes. I fitted Exact branded pipes February 2016 and of late starting has being getting worse and worse - in fact exactly as described in the article. Has anyone else found this? John
  23. Hi folks, I've taken the body of my newly purchased TR6 restoration project. As expected its very rusty, what I wasn't expecting was to find that some clown had welded the chassis to the body on the passenger side and then covered it up with Schutz but lets forget about that annoyance for now. I'm not certain yet if the chassis is going to be repairable until I have it cleaned off totally but I think it is so I'm proceeding on that basis for now and that will hopefully be borne out. It needs two new trailing arm supports, both legs at the rear where the under boot/trunk bar is positioned, repa
  24. Evening all Found these on E bay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triumph-Tr5-6-new-crank-pully-and-damper-assembly-with-timing-marks-3-8-groove/274646153993?hash=item3ff22fbb09:g:UNkAAOSwOVZf~uWk Anybody had experience of these? Thoughts appreciated. Cheers Andy
  25. I've just bought a TR6 (CP) with triple webers (40s), fast road cam, phoenix sport manifold+exhaust and lumenition optronic performance ignition. I think the compression ratio is around 10:1. It seems to go well (the webers appear to be well tuned) but I am not sure if the timing is optimised for maximum power from the modified engine. I would appreciate your thoughts and recommendations for a distributor timing curve - i.e. the static timing, the maximum timing degrees at high rpm and roughly what rpm this maximum should be reached?
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