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Found 1,188 results

  1. I've been busy the last couple of days re modelling my TR6 loud speaker pods. I had bought and fitted Moss supplied pods at least 20 years ago with locally supplied Alpine speakers. Many years of activity, (you don't have to ask!) had taken the toll on the integrity of the hardboard backbone as highlighted in the attached photo. They also had a mind of their own and often fell down into the footwell. The used of cable ties and gaffa tape to hold them in place was never pretty. My wife bought me a Stanley staple gun for my birthday in August, and naturally I knew exactly where it was going to be used first. I have remodelled a pair but with thought for robustness and price. I have used 5mm plywood from B&Q and resourced off cuts of vinyl and a combination of 1" and 0.5" foam to suit from 'Thames Upholstery' here in Southend on Sea, Essex very generously given to me at zero cost! I used the original hardboard as a template, out came my hardly used jigsaw and copies were made. Everything else more or less fell into place, and as you can see from the photos, job done! The sound from these speakers was never that great with a distinct lack of bass as there is no baffle. However the rigid construction of these new pods has helped the sound to a small degree. They were a little tricky to get into place as the plywood does not offer much flexibility, but where there is a will, there is a way! So for the cost of less than £10 I'm very pleased with the end result. Only one downside, the 20 year speaker covers are not like new, oh yes there's always Ebay!
  2. Hi Just been out for a nice drive and a pub lunch, on the way back we got caught in a massive downpour, roof up quickly, no problem. Then after a short while water was coming in on the drivers side lower corner and then dripping on my leg. Once home I checked the rubber around that corner and it seems loose and if I push from the inside it looks like the screen would push out, it appears the rubber has shrunk. Never been a problem before and the seal and trim looks original, the insert trim has shrunk by about 3/4” too. What’s the best thing I could squirt in there for a temporary seal. I’d like to do something as it looks like it’s going to be pi$$ing down with rain all the way up to Stratford on Friday and if I don’t do anything I will end up with very wet legs. I look forward to your replies.
  3. I have a load of original Girling 16P brake calipers that are about to be refurbished by Bigg Red. I have had one pair finished in black to go behind the black wire wheels on my BRG racecar. my plan is to have these plated (not painted) in either the original type gold or silver. There will be new pistons and seals etc. Basically, they will be fully reconditioned and ready to fit. The point of this post is to ask that if anyone is looking for a pair and wants then done in a particular finish, let me know as I will be taking to be done next week. Price depends on finish. Final point is that these are original castings and not the repro ones!! David
  4. I wanted to share some pictures of an epic mountain biking trip from South East London to North Wales I did with my brother recently. You can forget your Volvo estate/SUV, the best utility vehicle for two blokes, two bikes and all your stuff is a TR. We clocked up 750 miles in total over 4 days and used a lot of fuel. It was a real adventure though, great to get the TR outside the M25 and get it on the roads it was made for. I hope you enjoy the pictures: B4391 over the moors heading to Bala without seeing another soul, has to be one of my favourite roads. Checking the bikes somewhere on the Welsh borders Being chased by a 535d Beemer (realistically I don't think we stood a chance). Hood up because of torrential downpours! Foot down! heading for the moors. TR6 in some intimidating company. Least horsepower but most fun. Somewhere in the welsh hills..... Above Blaenau Ffestiniog Beautiful evening at Barmouth sea font Hope you enjoyed the pics, Phil H
  5. Riche

    Starting issues

    I have recently started to have an issue with starting my car (1970 TR6 Pi). It takes a lot of turning the engine over before it will start. I have listed below some clues which may help you help me (I hope!) 1. It does not flood so no smell of petrol. 2. When it does start, I take it out of the garage and it leaves a small trail of oil (engine I think, and no smell of petrol) 3. I then leave the car standing a few minutes to warm up and it leaves a patch of oil on the tarmac. 4. Then after I have taking it for a run and return, it does not leave a patch of oil as in number 3. 5. Not loosing oil (saying that, I would say it is normal amount that I top up periodically This has just started in the last month or so. Has anyone any ideas or suggestions that I can start to diagnose what is happening.
  6. Good evening Peter, Now you have that nice pulley info. Could you now predict the torque using the standard pulley? I've had a bit of a guess and came up with this. Std is where I am now. The new head and cam is a worked head with a fast road cam. Cheers Steve
  7. Hi Just managed to roll the chassis out of the garage since rolling it in over a year ago. Before and after pics below. Am now running brake and fuel lines. Does anyone have photos of where the brake line from rear comes to the front of the chassis? I'm unclear on where the join to the pipe connected to master cylinder should be. Should it be within the chassis c section (as Moss diagram implies) or bent up into engine bay (which is what I think I can see in the before photo below)? Similarly, does anyone have photos of where fuel and fuel return lines bend up at front and back of car? I found an old thread with some photos posted by Stuart but photobucket changes mean they're no longer visible. Thanks
  8. What are people's thoughts on the oil change intervals for a gearbox with J type overdrive. It was 6 years ago when I last did a change but only 6000 miles since. Should I change due to the time or not bother yet because of the low mileage. Another conundrum for cars that cover low mileages!
  9. Probably the wrong place for this topic/post. However, I have this one cluttering up the workshop and am open to any sensible offers via eBay. I’d love it to go to a new home. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lucas-ammeter-Range-Rover-classic-Triumph-Morris-Austin-50-0-50/254270361591?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 if it’s of interest, please make an offer, whatever you feel it’s worth to you. David
  10. Evening all Today I have stripped the doors so they are easier to bolt on and off and to repair the lower edges of the door shells as the last owner had the skins replaced over them! Anyway the window channels are salvageable and just need new felt, any recommendations? However I'm missing 3 of the white nylon "stops" riveted to the channels anyone got any scrap ones they could let me have? New ones aren't exactly cheap! Thanks Andy
  11. monty

    TR6 owner

    Anybody with a TR6 near to Cheltenham who would be willing to show it to a friend of mine who may be a potential buyer? He is looking @ buying either a TR6 or MGB. It would be nice if we could persuade him the former is preferable!
  12. Hi All I have been (very slowly) putting a new loom into My TR6 (Autosparks). I cut all the old connectors off the old loom so I knew what wire went were. I have checked most of the wires to make sure that one end is connected where I expect the other end to be. Then I've checked it again. And again. So, my questions to all who may know - is there anything I should be doing before I reconnect the battery? Are there any tests I can do (bearing in mind I'm not an electrician!) to make sure I have it all correct? Also - I am thinking of putting an electric fan in and spot lamps (I had the wiring done). Where do people put the switches (for lamps and over ride of fan)? Any help of advice welcome. Thanks in anticipation. Rog
  13. The indicators have stopped working on my 1974 TR6 can you please give me some advice on how to troubleshoot this. The flasher unit looks new - its round not oblong, but of course that doesn't mean it is working. I also dont know if this is important but when I tried the indicators in the garage there was a click on the passenger side behind the dash and then nothing. It hasnt done this again turning the ignition switch on and off. The fuse is ok. Could a blown bulb cause the problem? I'm not an electrician but I know how to use an ammeter and follow basic instructions. Any help would be appreciated. Cheers Rob
  14. Hi, After doing some searches here regarding fitting a Phoenix Super Sports Exhaust, I've found a few mentions of poor fitment of the single tube from manifold to rear box, and wanted some current observations from those that have fitted this exhaust. I am running what appears to be a Rimmers twin box system at the moment, and really want to have a more standard look, but also like the idea of the upgrade in terms of the original exhaust, with bigger bore and stainless. Many thanks Gareth
  15. Hi I am in the process of putting my TR6 back together with a new loom. The ignition switch back has come off and although it will go back on I'm a bit worried it might just decide to drop off in use. My '6 is a 1971 car with the ignition switch/steering lock. The lock doesn't look like any in the Moss catalogue. The wires are fixed to the back of the switch on a white block (see photo) and the colours and positions don't seem to match the wiring diagrams I have. Is this a correct switch or has it been swapped at some point? Switch back Is there any way I can repair this in situ or is it scrap? Does anyone have a serviceable switch for sale? Any advice and/or help much appreciated. Rog
  16. Good morning to everyone. Has anyone fitted, or has had fitted a Quaife limited slip diff to their tr6? Last year I fitted one that was supplied by a well known supplier in the TR world. I fitted it to a friends car here in France. The car is an early CC model 1969 fitted with a completely rebuilt PI engine and j type overdrive gearbox. Together with standard drive shafts and UJ,s from the same supplier. I fitted the diff last year and thought it was a fit and forget, boy was I wrong! My friend has just covered 1000 miles when there were some horrible sounds coming from the back end. The diff upon inspection had a serious amount of play and two of the UJ,s were also rattling. So I changed UJs and did a test run. The noise was better but still bad so I decided to send it back under guarantee to the supplier. The turn around time was superb and the supplier was very helpful and said that there was a problem( not really specified) but they had changed bearings had a look at the lsd and rebuilt the diff at no cost. When I got it home here it was tight and I and my friend were very happy. The diff was tight when turned by hand etc etc. I refitted it and on the test run out about 10 miles everything was ok. However yesterday I was at the Grand Prix de Pau about 50 miles from where I live and on return the car was acting very peculiar, it felt like it was always trying to slow down and a noise returned to the drive train transmitting through the gear lever at first then to the engine. At first it felt like the car was running on 5 cylinders. When I arrived home it was straight on the car lift and I checked the engine first, no probs but the the diff now has quite a bit of backlash and acts like a normal diff as in the right had wheel spins freely when turned fast by hand the left is stationary when the left is turned the same speed the right hand turns at the same time? The noise in the diff is a clunk and is inside the rear of the diff, but more than that one of the brand new UJs has now a lot of play - coincidence or diff related I wonder? When I replaced the diff the first time with a standard unit the car ran fantastically well. I am now a little stumped on why this would happen on a diff that has done just over 100 miles. Can someone give me any suggestions please. Clem
  17. How do I decide the size of the throttle bodies? There are various systems out there with 40mm - 42mm - 45mm - 50mm .... Can it be assumed coming from Weber 40 DCOE using 40mm throttle bodies is the same? Jochem
  18. A member contacted me via HQ and offered me the new TR6 motor, that he had just bought. The story was that this had run a turn or so, but then blew the fuse and now was short-circuit. He clearly thought this had destroyed itself in a major way. I thought this unlikely, but by then he had bought another. I don't usually rebuild these 14W types because there are lots of cheap new ones about. But I offered to collect this one, on the basis that the forum could learn something from it. It's one of those that come from India in a red box marked Lucas. It didn't actually take much to remedy it and in a little while the forum WILL learn something! But right now I want to get this ready to pass on to somebody that can use it. However the sweep-angle is NOT marked on the gear, like the original ones were. So in order to make sure this is correct for a TR6, I need some help from the forum. I made some pencil marks next to the slider that guides the end of the wire-rack cable. This allowed me to measure the distance traveled by the end of the crank-arm. This is easier than trying to measure the distance of the crank-pin from the axis of the gear. So could an owner with a 14W motor that sweeps properly, tell me how much the end of the wire-rack moves, as the blades move from one extreme to the other. You only have to get this to within a few millimetres or so, so that holding a rule next to it would do. These motors are reasonably good and this one only had a simple manufacturing error. But it amused me to find that the fit of the main-gear into the Oilite bush is pretty loose. Technical term is "rattle-fit". If I dismantled a DR2 made in 1957, that had had a hard working life and the gear was as loose as this, I would extract the Oilite bush and fit a new one!
  19. Evening All. I have knock (possibly better described as a clunk) from the drivetrain when I lift the clutch and the wheels start to move. I can also hear it at low speeds when releasing the clutch after changing gears 2 - 4. Cannot hear it at high speed. The car drives beautifully apart from this. Could this be the problem? The play seems to be only in the nearside diff yoke and I cannot detect any play in either side shaft splines or UJ's which are all new. Can anyone tell me what the problem might be here and what the fix might involve? The diff has not been rebuilt, but CTM replaced the seals and bearings about 5 years ago after which it sat in my garage during my re-build. Many thanks, Sean
  20. Out on the track as part of the Classic media launch!
  21. Hi guys, Hope those of you who got out for drive it day yesterday had fun. On the way home my speedometer stopped, I've just had a chance to look at it and pulled the speedo cable and it appears to me that the plastic bush has moved so that the square end can't engage with the speedo drive (I can't move this bush by hand). It looks chamfered like the opposite end and I can tell there isn't a snapped off end still in the speedo. Am I correct and if I need to order a new one can I just measure the inner cable length? Gareth
  22. Help, took the car out for a quick spin ( the first of the year) and disaster. Started up and only firing on 5 cylinders but was clearing. Drove to garage to put in fuel and the misfiring had stopped. Drove to the local for one pint ( I had driven approx 2 miles). Came out half an hour later, car started okay but within a few hundred yard stated misfiring and backfiring and if I took my foot off the throttle it would stall, but started okay. i was only a few hundred yards from home so decided to get home. Light grey smoke stared emitting from the exhaust that did not smell good. Got home and put car in garage and nearly cried. Anybody any ideas where I should start. Initially I was going to get the head off, but as far as I know it has never been off, certainly in the 11 years I have had it. It is a 1974 TR6 pi and has covered 72000 miles.
  23. AarhusTr6

    Gearbox ID

    Hi I have a number on gearbox which I do not understand. can someone help please? It has V2946 on it and another has CD29091. I found a link to a database of Triumph gearboxes but it seems not to work. Thanks in anticipation, Rich
  24. Evening all Today I finally got around to having a look at the floor pan behind the seats and into the boot area and while repairing the chassis the old bridge was replaced as it had cracks and evidence of the usual repairs to the pins which were poor to say the least and I wondered how they had got to it without taking the tub off. Now I know. But if you were welding the pin why the hell would go to the trouble of patching over with fibreglass when the metal "flap"is still there! So far the rest looks solid on this side will be interesting to see what the other half brings. Don't you just love welding. Andy
  25. SeanF

    Clutch problems

    Since completing my rebuild, my clutch is fairly heavy and does not dis/engage until the pedal is almost at the floor. Its a Laycock clutch which was refurbished by Prestige Clutch last summer and I installed a new cross shaft with new bearings each side as well as a new steel carrier, new pin augmented by cross drilling and fitting bolt and nylock nut. I drove my friend's car a couple of weeks ago and his clutch engages/disengages almost at the top of the pedal so it became apparent that all is not right with mine. Sometimes I have to release and re-engage the clutch to select reverse or a gear if re-starting from the lights for example Before I bought the car it had had had a new master cylinder (TRW) and slave cylinder from TR shop in 2013 but these had never worked in anger because the clutch plate was seized into the pressure plate and the pin had sheared (only became obvious on stripping down). I re-used the slave as it was, and fitted a new seal kit to the master as part of the rebuild. I have just replaced that slave with an OEM TRW version from Rimmers together with a new pushrod clevis pin etc. This does not seem to have made any difference to the clutch operation so I am looking for any advice as to what to try next. I have turned the slave cylinder so that the bleed nipple is at the top when bleeding and have tried to push back on the push rod with the pedal engaged to expel any air bubbles out of the slave. Should I replace the Master cylinder? I have just ordered one. Should I be able to move the clutch cross shaft by hand? I can't. It is very stiff and when lying under the car (engine off) and the slave pushrod is applying pressure I can hear a sort of grating noise from the push rod area. The pushrod is extending approx 13mm from closed to fully open which seems to be more than enough but yet the clutch is not good. Some additional information. When rebuilding, I had to drill the end of the old sheared pin out of the clutch fork. I re-used the old fork with a new shaft and pin as I thought I had managed to drill it out cleanly. Maybe I should have just replaced the fork. Anyway, if anyone has any ideas or suggestions about what to try, to improve the clutch, which might avoid having to remove the box, I'd very much appreciate it. Many thanks in advance. Sean
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