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Found 1,192 results

  1. Gents, before I find the energy to post it in the Classifieds here is my restored aluminum surrey hardtop surplus to requirement. It's complete with seals; headlining; braces; SS trim; original fixing points/threads and knobs. Painted in Silverstone grey, it will nicely combine with any of the standard TR colors. I concur that £ 900 isn't cheap but rare enough in this condition and a direct fit. Please PM for details and more pictures. Cheers
  2. Birdseye

    Gearbox Noise

    The attached sound file is a recording of the noise emanating from my gearbox. 1973 TR6 with J type O/D. I have owned the car since 1979. Taken off the road in 1982. 68K miles. The clutch and plate are 700 miles old. The thrust bearing squeals slightly and will probably need changing but I don’t suspect that it’s the thrust bearing which is causing this particular noise; however, I’m open to your opinion. The noise is progressively getting worse, hardly noticeable 400 miles ago. The noise occurs in every gear but only occurs when the gearbox is under load and stops when the throttle is eased back and the load released. It also occurs with or without the O/D engaged. I don’t think it’s the gearstick fizzing (I had a Triumph Herald which did that) There’s plenty of the correct grade oil in the box. New UJ’s on the prop shaft (700 miles) I suppose it could be coming from the O/D rather than the gearbox, but again open to ideas. Anyone heard this noise or any ideas before I remove the box and pull it apart. Many Thanks Ross TR6 Gearbox Noise.m4a
  3. Chris96

    MX5 seats

    I want headrests for my TR6 seats which, whilst restored and good, are 1971 so have no head support. I have a set of refurbished frames for TR6 with adjustable headrests, and all the new foams, springs etc, but when I try these seats in other TR6 the headrests do not really provide the protection I seek. Indeed they look to me they might make life worse in a rear end shunt by providing a pivot point for the neck to arch back (particularly with a crash helmet on). Mx5 seats with adjustable headrests look the way to go but any advice before I do would be welcome. Would be happy to swap (+/- cash adjustment) if anyone has some and wants original TR versions.
  4. Had car out last night for run up the glens and noticed my idle speed started to creep when the car gets hot....it's about 900 when cold but as it heats up it creeps to about 1200 doesn't (so far) go above about 1200...any help appreciated , Regards Jas
  5. I am considering fitting a tonneau to my ‘6. I’m a fairly competent DIYer and was wondering if this was something I should leave to the experts? My inclination is Standard PVC does anyone have any bad experience or advice to offer concerning alternative materials? Is there a consensus on best supplier? Are there any special tools I might need? Are there any resources out there which I can consult prior to installing? And finally…assuming I get it installed … is there an “official” way to fold the cover when not deployed?
  6. Probably the wrong place for this topic/post. However, I have this one cluttering up the workshop and am open to any sensible offers via eBay. I’d love it to go to a new home. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lucas-ammeter-Range-Rover-classic-Triumph-Morris-Austin-50-0-50/254270361591?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 if it’s of interest, please make an offer, whatever you feel it’s worth to you. David
  7. Hi all, This might seem a strange set of questions but I'm trying to understand how to operate overdrive as I've never driven with this before, and I'm hoping to have my car back soon- it really has been the slowest and most stalled of rebuilds ever known!! I know o/d can be used in 3rd and 4th on mine. 1. When should I operate o/d for the first time on a journey - do I have to be at a certain speed and in 4th at first selection? 2. Do I need to deselect o/d before shifting down from 4th to 3rd? 3. Do I need to deselect o/d before shitfting up from 3rd to 4th? 4. When I turn the engine off is o/d cancelled if I haven't already done it? ie will it still be in o/d when I next turn the car on? 5. Is there an easy way to know if o/d is selected whilst driving (other than the revs being lower)? Thanks, Steve
  8. SeanF

    Help with brakes

    I have recently put my 74 TR6 back on the road after a complete ground up restoration and have covered about 120 miles so far. I am having trouble bleeding the brakes properly and am looking for any tips on how to solve this issue. No matter how much I bleed the front circuit, I can't seem to get all the air out. I can get what seems like most air out and get a decent pedal using my vizibleed kit but this will progressively fail with use and the pedal gets softer and softer until it will only stop at very low speeds. Had fun coming down Biggin Hill yesterday! I have gone around and made sure all the unions are tight and don't seem to have any leaks. All new Automec Pipe kit and new SS flexible pipes around (goodridge on front and moss own on rear), rebuilt calipers with new cylinders and seal kit, new bleed nipples and rear drums, new rear cylinders, new seal kit in MC. Using Dot 4. Any tips as to where I'm going wrong? Did not bench bleed the MC. Could this be the problem? Hope everyone had a good Christmas and best wishes for the new year. Sean
  9. I have a load of original Girling 16P brake calipers that are about to be refurbished by Bigg Red. I have had one pair finished in black to go behind the black wire wheels on my BRG racecar. my plan is to have these plated (not painted) in either the original type gold or silver. There will be new pistons and seals etc. Basically, they will be fully reconditioned and ready to fit. The point of this post is to ask that if anyone is looking for a pair and wants then done in a particular finish, let me know as I will be taking to be done next week. Price depends on finish. Final point is that these are original castings and not the repro ones!! David
  10. I've been busy the last couple of days re modelling my TR6 loud speaker pods. I had bought and fitted Moss supplied pods at least 20 years ago with locally supplied Alpine speakers. Many years of activity, (you don't have to ask!) had taken the toll on the integrity of the hardboard backbone as highlighted in the attached photo. They also had a mind of their own and often fell down into the footwell. The used of cable ties and gaffa tape to hold them in place was never pretty. My wife bought me a Stanley staple gun for my birthday in August, and naturally I knew exactly where it was going to be used first. I have remodelled a pair but with thought for robustness and price. I have used 5mm plywood from B&Q and resourced off cuts of vinyl and a combination of 1" and 0.5" foam to suit from 'Thames Upholstery' here in Southend on Sea, Essex very generously given to me at zero cost! I used the original hardboard as a template, out came my hardly used jigsaw and copies were made. Everything else more or less fell into place, and as you can see from the photos, job done! The sound from these speakers was never that great with a distinct lack of bass as there is no baffle. However the rigid construction of these new pods has helped the sound to a small degree. They were a little tricky to get into place as the plywood does not offer much flexibility, but where there is a will, there is a way! So for the cost of less than £10 I'm very pleased with the end result. Only one downside, the 20 year speaker covers are not like new, oh yes there's always Ebay!
  11. Hi Just been out for a nice drive and a pub lunch, on the way back we got caught in a massive downpour, roof up quickly, no problem. Then after a short while water was coming in on the drivers side lower corner and then dripping on my leg. Once home I checked the rubber around that corner and it seems loose and if I push from the inside it looks like the screen would push out, it appears the rubber has shrunk. Never been a problem before and the seal and trim looks original, the insert trim has shrunk by about 3/4” too. What’s the best thing I could squirt in there for a temporary seal. I’d like to do something as it looks like it’s going to be pi$$ing down with rain all the way up to Stratford on Friday and if I don’t do anything I will end up with very wet legs. I look forward to your replies.
  12. I wanted to share some pictures of an epic mountain biking trip from South East London to North Wales I did with my brother recently. You can forget your Volvo estate/SUV, the best utility vehicle for two blokes, two bikes and all your stuff is a TR. We clocked up 750 miles in total over 4 days and used a lot of fuel. It was a real adventure though, great to get the TR outside the M25 and get it on the roads it was made for. I hope you enjoy the pictures: B4391 over the moors heading to Bala without seeing another soul, has to be one of my favourite roads. Checking the bikes somewhere on the Welsh borders Being chased by a 535d Beemer (realistically I don't think we stood a chance). Hood up because of torrential downpours! Foot down! heading for the moors. TR6 in some intimidating company. Least horsepower but most fun. Somewhere in the welsh hills..... Above Blaenau Ffestiniog Beautiful evening at Barmouth sea font Hope you enjoyed the pics, Phil H
  13. Riche

    Starting issues

    I have recently started to have an issue with starting my car (1970 TR6 Pi). It takes a lot of turning the engine over before it will start. I have listed below some clues which may help you help me (I hope!) 1. It does not flood so no smell of petrol. 2. When it does start, I take it out of the garage and it leaves a small trail of oil (engine I think, and no smell of petrol) 3. I then leave the car standing a few minutes to warm up and it leaves a patch of oil on the tarmac. 4. Then after I have taking it for a run and return, it does not leave a patch of oil as in number 3. 5. Not loosing oil (saying that, I would say it is normal amount that I top up periodically This has just started in the last month or so. Has anyone any ideas or suggestions that I can start to diagnose what is happening.
  14. Good evening Peter, Now you have that nice pulley info. Could you now predict the torque using the standard pulley? I've had a bit of a guess and came up with this. Std is where I am now. The new head and cam is a worked head with a fast road cam. Cheers Steve
  15. Hi Just managed to roll the chassis out of the garage since rolling it in over a year ago. Before and after pics below. Am now running brake and fuel lines. Does anyone have photos of where the brake line from rear comes to the front of the chassis? I'm unclear on where the join to the pipe connected to master cylinder should be. Should it be within the chassis c section (as Moss diagram implies) or bent up into engine bay (which is what I think I can see in the before photo below)? Similarly, does anyone have photos of where fuel and fuel return lines bend up at front and back of car? I found an old thread with some photos posted by Stuart but photobucket changes mean they're no longer visible. Thanks
  16. What are people's thoughts on the oil change intervals for a gearbox with J type overdrive. It was 6 years ago when I last did a change but only 6000 miles since. Should I change due to the time or not bother yet because of the low mileage. Another conundrum for cars that cover low mileages!
  17. Evening all Today I have stripped the doors so they are easier to bolt on and off and to repair the lower edges of the door shells as the last owner had the skins replaced over them! Anyway the window channels are salvageable and just need new felt, any recommendations? However I'm missing 3 of the white nylon "stops" riveted to the channels anyone got any scrap ones they could let me have? New ones aren't exactly cheap! Thanks Andy
  18. monty

    TR6 owner

    Anybody with a TR6 near to Cheltenham who would be willing to show it to a friend of mine who may be a potential buyer? He is looking @ buying either a TR6 or MGB. It would be nice if we could persuade him the former is preferable!
  19. Hi All I have been (very slowly) putting a new loom into My TR6 (Autosparks). I cut all the old connectors off the old loom so I knew what wire went were. I have checked most of the wires to make sure that one end is connected where I expect the other end to be. Then I've checked it again. And again. So, my questions to all who may know - is there anything I should be doing before I reconnect the battery? Are there any tests I can do (bearing in mind I'm not an electrician!) to make sure I have it all correct? Also - I am thinking of putting an electric fan in and spot lamps (I had the wiring done). Where do people put the switches (for lamps and over ride of fan)? Any help of advice welcome. Thanks in anticipation. Rog
  20. The indicators have stopped working on my 1974 TR6 can you please give me some advice on how to troubleshoot this. The flasher unit looks new - its round not oblong, but of course that doesn't mean it is working. I also dont know if this is important but when I tried the indicators in the garage there was a click on the passenger side behind the dash and then nothing. It hasnt done this again turning the ignition switch on and off. The fuse is ok. Could a blown bulb cause the problem? I'm not an electrician but I know how to use an ammeter and follow basic instructions. Any help would be appreciated. Cheers Rob
  21. Hi, After doing some searches here regarding fitting a Phoenix Super Sports Exhaust, I've found a few mentions of poor fitment of the single tube from manifold to rear box, and wanted some current observations from those that have fitted this exhaust. I am running what appears to be a Rimmers twin box system at the moment, and really want to have a more standard look, but also like the idea of the upgrade in terms of the original exhaust, with bigger bore and stainless. Many thanks Gareth
  22. Hi I am in the process of putting my TR6 back together with a new loom. The ignition switch back has come off and although it will go back on I'm a bit worried it might just decide to drop off in use. My '6 is a 1971 car with the ignition switch/steering lock. The lock doesn't look like any in the Moss catalogue. The wires are fixed to the back of the switch on a white block (see photo) and the colours and positions don't seem to match the wiring diagrams I have. Is this a correct switch or has it been swapped at some point? Switch back Is there any way I can repair this in situ or is it scrap? Does anyone have a serviceable switch for sale? Any advice and/or help much appreciated. Rog
  23. Good morning to everyone. Has anyone fitted, or has had fitted a Quaife limited slip diff to their tr6? Last year I fitted one that was supplied by a well known supplier in the TR world. I fitted it to a friends car here in France. The car is an early CC model 1969 fitted with a completely rebuilt PI engine and j type overdrive gearbox. Together with standard drive shafts and UJ,s from the same supplier. I fitted the diff last year and thought it was a fit and forget, boy was I wrong! My friend has just covered 1000 miles when there were some horrible sounds coming from the back end. The diff upon inspection had a serious amount of play and two of the UJ,s were also rattling. So I changed UJs and did a test run. The noise was better but still bad so I decided to send it back under guarantee to the supplier. The turn around time was superb and the supplier was very helpful and said that there was a problem( not really specified) but they had changed bearings had a look at the lsd and rebuilt the diff at no cost. When I got it home here it was tight and I and my friend were very happy. The diff was tight when turned by hand etc etc. I refitted it and on the test run out about 10 miles everything was ok. However yesterday I was at the Grand Prix de Pau about 50 miles from where I live and on return the car was acting very peculiar, it felt like it was always trying to slow down and a noise returned to the drive train transmitting through the gear lever at first then to the engine. At first it felt like the car was running on 5 cylinders. When I arrived home it was straight on the car lift and I checked the engine first, no probs but the the diff now has quite a bit of backlash and acts like a normal diff as in the right had wheel spins freely when turned fast by hand the left is stationary when the left is turned the same speed the right hand turns at the same time? The noise in the diff is a clunk and is inside the rear of the diff, but more than that one of the brand new UJs has now a lot of play - coincidence or diff related I wonder? When I replaced the diff the first time with a standard unit the car ran fantastically well. I am now a little stumped on why this would happen on a diff that has done just over 100 miles. Can someone give me any suggestions please. Clem
  24. How do I decide the size of the throttle bodies? There are various systems out there with 40mm - 42mm - 45mm - 50mm .... Can it be assumed coming from Weber 40 DCOE using 40mm throttle bodies is the same? Jochem
  25. A member contacted me via HQ and offered me the new TR6 motor, that he had just bought. The story was that this had run a turn or so, but then blew the fuse and now was short-circuit. He clearly thought this had destroyed itself in a major way. I thought this unlikely, but by then he had bought another. I don't usually rebuild these 14W types because there are lots of cheap new ones about. But I offered to collect this one, on the basis that the forum could learn something from it. It's one of those that come from India in a red box marked Lucas. It didn't actually take much to remedy it and in a little while the forum WILL learn something! But right now I want to get this ready to pass on to somebody that can use it. However the sweep-angle is NOT marked on the gear, like the original ones were. So in order to make sure this is correct for a TR6, I need some help from the forum. I made some pencil marks next to the slider that guides the end of the wire-rack cable. This allowed me to measure the distance traveled by the end of the crank-arm. This is easier than trying to measure the distance of the crank-pin from the axis of the gear. So could an owner with a 14W motor that sweeps properly, tell me how much the end of the wire-rack moves, as the blades move from one extreme to the other. You only have to get this to within a few millimetres or so, so that holding a rule next to it would do. These motors are reasonably good and this one only had a simple manufacturing error. But it amused me to find that the fit of the main-gear into the Oilite bush is pretty loose. Technical term is "rattle-fit". If I dismantled a DR2 made in 1957, that had had a hard working life and the gear was as loose as this, I would extract the Oilite bush and fit a new one!
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