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Found 1,205 results

  1. I'd prefer not to have to do this so I thought I'd ask before I start cutting into the mounting brackets. The captive nuts and cages are both missing can the bumpers be fitted without or will I have to cut the brackets and make some new cages. Or is there another option? Thanks Andy
  2. Evening folks By way of another project to keep busy I was thinking of recovering mine as the crash pads have gone brittle and have a few splits rather than buying new. The dash top is crispy as well. Anyone able to direct me to where I can obtain the closest matched material to the original to recover them. Thanks Andy
  3. Hi, I have stainless steel braided injector leads on my 1971 TR6, I have noticed some weeping from the top of the No.5 lead connector at the banjo on the MU. Does anyone know where I can get a single replacement lead complete with connectors? Appreciate any advice Thanks
  4. PodOne

    MX5 seats

    Hi all Familiar with these seats from past projects/cars but not for a 6 so before I source a pair which are the most comfortable and fit the best from peoples experience. MKI or MKII ? Thanks Andy
  5. Hello Has anyone got a wiring diagram for 1973 English CR series Tr6.i have searched the web, & my Haynes manual doesn't have the year, nor does the works manual either.Any help will be much appreciated
  6. Evening all Just going through my boxes of bits and found the Lucas alternator (original?) which needs a service/testing. No way to test it now as two of the case bolts were sheared off but before I do as usual I have a few questions; The Tag reads 23636A 15ACR 12v 1971 1) What output is this and is it original spec? The date suggests it has been replaced I intend using a new loom from Autosparks and fit a radio, Bosch pump, Halogen lights and keep the ammeter so will this unit cope if I can rebuild it can it be uprated to increase the amps. 2) When I have stripped it down I need the following; a) Three of the long case bolts as all now sheared and needed drilling out/tapping; anyone know the size or have some kicking around they don't want? b) Bearings both gritty; anyone know the sizes c) Brushes/black plastic diode block Anyone know if there is a service pack? 3)If its not worth bothering with what unit should I go for? I'd like to save it if I can given its taken best part of the afternoon to strip! Thanks all Andy
  7. Evening. I would like to fit a heater valve that actually turns the heater off, what are the current recommendations ? Thanks Mark
  8. As the title says i had a problem fitting the four seasons heater valve, the old one came out with no issue, I fitted the new one with some thread sealant even the rubber pipe went back on just fine, But I wasn't sure how tight to do it up, and so as the thread sealant says you can reposition up to four hours I thought I'll tighten it some more to be sure, that's when I noticed the valve would no longer turn with the lever! I took it off again and I can't see where I've bent or pinched the housing, but it didn't take a lot for the top part to start spinning instead of the valve inside, so it's had it. If i get another one, how do I put it back on? How tight is enough? Would the thread sealant (permatex) have held if had I just left it the 72 hours of curing time the first time? Cheers Gareth
  9. Hi All, Not sure if there is any interest, but I’m helping a neighbour/buddy of mine to restore a 1976 NA Spec TR6. In actuality, there are two cars involved with the other being a 73 that was purchased as a parts/body donor for the 76. We have spent 18 days stripping the two cars down (from as little as two hours per day to as many as eight hours per day). I have made a playlist of our efforts on YouTube if anyone would like to follow along. Cheers Tush
  10. Is there anyone in this great club prepared to lend me a Lift-the-Dot punch for the duration of fitting my tonneau. I thought about buying one from Moss but saw the price and needed a defibrillator thereafter. I’m in the London Group and happy to collect. Or posting is an option if the lockdown proves to be an obstacle. Reimbursement of costs a given. I’m sure we can come to some arrangement concerning compensation. In the same vein I have road spring AND valve spring compressors (used once) if anyone requires these on loan. These too are an expensive tool to use once .
  11. ​I have recently had to replace my sun visors and thought it would be worth sharing the following information & pictures on different visors to help others - hopefully the attached pictures help show the issue. ​My original visor is the middle one of 3 in the attached picture - as you can see the top visor (from TR Shop and same shape as the one supplied by Moss) is a different shape, while the bottom one (from John Skinner) is the same as my original visor. I tried fitting the TR Shop visor, but the indent on the right hand side means the short inner pivot bar (not shown) does not reach the rubber retainer clip once fitted into the visor - I would have had to move the clip to use the visor, resulting in an extra hole in the windscreen frame, or slide the visor along the main pivot bar - but then the visor would hit the mirror. I did a search online and found the John Skinner visor - the same shape as my original and with fitted inner pivot bar. This engages with the retainer clip OK and you can also see how it drops down without fouling the mirror. ​Hope this is of help to someone. ​Steve
  12. Hi all, Lost the clutch. Pedal to the floor and surprise surprise no fluid in the master cylinder. Car hasn’t been driven over the winter save for a couple of mile blast a couple of weeks ago. There is no evidence of fluid leak on garage floor but that aside inspection of the slave cylinder shows a lot of wear marks on the piston, even if the seal doesn’t look bad. Anyway decided that a new slave is in order, but the one removed has County S02 10 or SO2 10 and 7/8” on outer casting surface. I see that all the usual suspects have the standard 1” slave available with the exception of Revington who also list a 7/8” bore alternative at twice the price. Now I would like replacement to be similar to existing, but to muddy the water a little more the bore of the existing cylinder is actually 1” and not 7/8” as shown on the casting. Anyone come across anything similar, and knowing that there is a lot of scepticism around regarding spare part quality are there any good recommendations for a replacement source? Would be also good to know what the actual size of the standard 1” bore slave is - 1 1/8” maybe? I attach a couple of pics for reference. As usual many thanks in anticipation for all gems of wisdom from what is the best knowledge database on the planet. thanks, TonyC
  13. Hi I am looking to replace my (soggy,saggy and perforated) original Gearbox tunnel, there seem to be a number of different materials (plastic or fibreglass) and suppliers. Does anyone have any recommendations? Thanks Rich
  14. Hi aIl I'm in need of the bracket numbered 29 in the diagram below if anyone has one going spare I appreciate it as even Conrad hasn't got one! Thanks Andy
  15. In case anyone is looking for one, I spotted this ROM for sale on ebay. Price is currently very low so possibly a great bargain for someone. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triuph-Original-TR5-TR6-Repair-Operation-Manual/303462077421?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 This is the version of the manual that I have and that I used throughout my restoration. No connection, just spotted it. Sean
  16. I have a load of original Girling 16P brake calipers that are about to be refurbished by Bigg Red. I have had one pair finished in black to go behind the black wire wheels on my BRG racecar. my plan is to have these plated (not painted) in either the original type gold or silver. There will be new pistons and seals etc. Basically, they will be fully reconditioned and ready to fit. The point of this post is to ask that if anyone is looking for a pair and wants then done in a particular finish, let me know as I will be taking to be done next week. Price depends on finish. Final point is that these are original castings and not the repro ones!! David
  17. Hi all As you might know my car arrived in boxes so I'm not sure if I've got everything plus I lost a lot of the pics I had taken when the dreaded IT virus took my lap top out (I known I should have backed it up). Anyway as a change from body work I'm planning on putting the dash back together and I was hoping some kind person might share some pics of the dash lay out for a 69 car and confirm if they had a hazard warning switch as I can't see where it would fit. Thanks as ever Andy
  18. Birdseye

    Gearbox Noise

    The attached sound file is a recording of the noise emanating from my gearbox. 1973 TR6 with J type O/D. I have owned the car since 1979. Taken off the road in 1982. 68K miles. The clutch and plate are 700 miles old. The thrust bearing squeals slightly and will probably need changing but I don’t suspect that it’s the thrust bearing which is causing this particular noise; however, I’m open to your opinion. The noise is progressively getting worse, hardly noticeable 400 miles ago. The noise occurs in every gear but only occurs when the gearbox is under load and stops when the throttle is eased back and the load released. It also occurs with or without the O/D engaged. I don’t think it’s the gearstick fizzing (I had a Triumph Herald which did that) There’s plenty of the correct grade oil in the box. New UJ’s on the prop shaft (700 miles) I suppose it could be coming from the O/D rather than the gearbox, but again open to ideas. Anyone heard this noise or any ideas before I remove the box and pull it apart. Many Thanks Ross TR6 Gearbox Noise.m4a
  19. Rain had stopped on christmas day so I decided to open roof and have my first convertible ride.... i own this car for one month, bought in uk and drove back to Paris under rain.... engine with efi fast road camshaft and full stainless exhaust 6 to 2. Runs nicely
  20. For those of you who have used ARP head bolts, have you retorqued them or not? The manufacturer states: "Do I need to re-torque my head bolts or studs? If you follow the ARP installation instructions, there should be no need to do a re-torque. However, it may be necessary under certain circumstances if the gasket manufacturer’s instructions require it, particularly if a fire ring has been installed. ARP recommends not doing a re-torque on a hot engine." My engine builder says I should.
  21. Gents, before I find the energy to post it in the Classifieds here is my restored aluminum surrey hardtop surplus to requirement. It's complete with seals; headlining; braces; SS trim; original fixing points/threads and knobs. Painted in Silverstone grey, it will nicely combine with any of the standard TR colors. I concur that £ 900 isn't cheap but rare enough in this condition and a direct fit. Please PM for details and more pictures. Cheers
  22. Chris96

    MX5 seats

    I want headrests for my TR6 seats which, whilst restored and good, are 1971 so have no head support. I have a set of refurbished frames for TR6 with adjustable headrests, and all the new foams, springs etc, but when I try these seats in other TR6 the headrests do not really provide the protection I seek. Indeed they look to me they might make life worse in a rear end shunt by providing a pivot point for the neck to arch back (particularly with a crash helmet on). Mx5 seats with adjustable headrests look the way to go but any advice before I do would be welcome. Would be happy to swap (+/- cash adjustment) if anyone has some and wants original TR versions.
  23. Had car out last night for run up the glens and noticed my idle speed started to creep when the car gets hot....it's about 900 when cold but as it heats up it creeps to about 1200 doesn't (so far) go above about 1200...any help appreciated , Regards Jas
  24. I am considering fitting a tonneau to my ‘6. I’m a fairly competent DIYer and was wondering if this was something I should leave to the experts? My inclination is Standard PVC does anyone have any bad experience or advice to offer concerning alternative materials? Is there a consensus on best supplier? Are there any special tools I might need? Are there any resources out there which I can consult prior to installing? And finally…assuming I get it installed … is there an “official” way to fold the cover when not deployed?
  25. Probably the wrong place for this topic/post. However, I have this one cluttering up the workshop and am open to any sensible offers via eBay. I’d love it to go to a new home. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lucas-ammeter-Range-Rover-classic-Triumph-Morris-Austin-50-0-50/254270361591?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 if it’s of interest, please make an offer, whatever you feel it’s worth to you. David
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