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Found 1,177 results

  1. Good morning to everyone. Has anyone fitted, or has had fitted a Quaife limited slip diff to their tr6? Last year I fitted one that was supplied by a well known supplier in the TR world. I fitted it to a friends car here in France. The car is an early CC model 1969 fitted with a completely rebuilt PI engine and j type overdrive gearbox. Together with standard drive shafts and UJ,s from the same supplier. I fitted the diff last year and thought it was a fit and forget, boy was I wrong! My friend has just covered 1000 miles when there were some horrible sounds coming from the back end. The diff upon inspection had a serious amount of play and two of the UJ,s were also rattling. So I changed UJs and did a test run. The noise was better but still bad so I decided to send it back under guarantee to the supplier. The turn around time was superb and the supplier was very helpful and said that there was a problem( not really specified) but they had changed bearings had a look at the lsd and rebuilt the diff at no cost. When I got it home here it was tight and I and my friend were very happy. The diff was tight when turned by hand etc etc. I refitted it and on the test run out about 10 miles everything was ok. However yesterday I was at the Grand Prix de Pau about 50 miles from where I live and on return the car was acting very peculiar, it felt like it was always trying to slow down and a noise returned to the drive train transmitting through the gear lever at first then to the engine. At first it felt like the car was running on 5 cylinders. When I arrived home it was straight on the car lift and I checked the engine first, no probs but the the diff now has quite a bit of backlash and acts like a normal diff as in the right had wheel spins freely when turned fast by hand the left is stationary when the left is turned the same speed the right hand turns at the same time? The noise in the diff is a clunk and is inside the rear of the diff, but more than that one of the brand new UJs has now a lot of play - coincidence or diff related I wonder? When I replaced the diff the first time with a standard unit the car ran fantastically well. I am now a little stumped on why this would happen on a diff that has done just over 100 miles. Can someone give me any suggestions please. Clem
  2. How do I decide the size of the throttle bodies? There are various systems out there with 40mm - 42mm - 45mm - 50mm .... Can it be assumed coming from Weber 40 DCOE using 40mm throttle bodies is the same? Jochem
  3. A member contacted me via HQ and offered me the new TR6 motor, that he had just bought. The story was that this had run a turn or so, but then blew the fuse and now was short-circuit. He clearly thought this had destroyed itself in a major way. I thought this unlikely, but by then he had bought another. I don't usually rebuild these 14W types because there are lots of cheap new ones about. But I offered to collect this one, on the basis that the forum could learn something from it. It's one of those that come from India in a red box marked Lucas. It didn't actually take much to remedy it and in a little while the forum WILL learn something! But right now I want to get this ready to pass on to somebody that can use it. However the sweep-angle is NOT marked on the gear, like the original ones were. So in order to make sure this is correct for a TR6, I need some help from the forum. I made some pencil marks next to the slider that guides the end of the wire-rack cable. This allowed me to measure the distance traveled by the end of the crank-arm. This is easier than trying to measure the distance of the crank-pin from the axis of the gear. So could an owner with a 14W motor that sweeps properly, tell me how much the end of the wire-rack moves, as the blades move from one extreme to the other. You only have to get this to within a few millimetres or so, so that holding a rule next to it would do. These motors are reasonably good and this one only had a simple manufacturing error. But it amused me to find that the fit of the main-gear into the Oilite bush is pretty loose. Technical term is "rattle-fit". If I dismantled a DR2 made in 1957, that had had a hard working life and the gear was as loose as this, I would extract the Oilite bush and fit a new one!
  4. Evening All. I have knock (possibly better described as a clunk) from the drivetrain when I lift the clutch and the wheels start to move. I can also hear it at low speeds when releasing the clutch after changing gears 2 - 4. Cannot hear it at high speed. The car drives beautifully apart from this. Could this be the problem? The play seems to be only in the nearside diff yoke and I cannot detect any play in either side shaft splines or UJ's which are all new. Can anyone tell me what the problem might be here and what the fix might involve? The diff has not been rebuilt, but CTM replaced the seals and bearings about 5 years ago after which it sat in my garage during my re-build. Many thanks, Sean
  5. Out on the track as part of the Classic media launch!
  6. Hi guys, Hope those of you who got out for drive it day yesterday had fun. On the way home my speedometer stopped, I've just had a chance to look at it and pulled the speedo cable and it appears to me that the plastic bush has moved so that the square end can't engage with the speedo drive (I can't move this bush by hand). It looks chamfered like the opposite end and I can tell there isn't a snapped off end still in the speedo. Am I correct and if I need to order a new one can I just measure the inner cable length? Gareth
  7. Help, took the car out for a quick spin ( the first of the year) and disaster. Started up and only firing on 5 cylinders but was clearing. Drove to garage to put in fuel and the misfiring had stopped. Drove to the local for one pint ( I had driven approx 2 miles). Came out half an hour later, car started okay but within a few hundred yard stated misfiring and backfiring and if I took my foot off the throttle it would stall, but started okay. i was only a few hundred yards from home so decided to get home. Light grey smoke stared emitting from the exhaust that did not smell good. Got home and put car in garage and nearly cried. Anybody any ideas where I should start. Initially I was going to get the head off, but as far as I know it has never been off, certainly in the 11 years I have had it. It is a 1974 TR6 pi and has covered 72000 miles.
  8. AarhusTr6

    Gearbox ID

    Hi I have a number on gearbox which I do not understand. can someone help please? It has V2946 on it and another has CD29091. I found a link to a database of Triumph gearboxes but it seems not to work. Thanks in anticipation, Rich
  9. Evening all Today I finally got around to having a look at the floor pan behind the seats and into the boot area and while repairing the chassis the old bridge was replaced as it had cracks and evidence of the usual repairs to the pins which were poor to say the least and I wondered how they had got to it without taking the tub off. Now I know. But if you were welding the pin why the hell would go to the trouble of patching over with fibreglass when the metal "flap"is still there! So far the rest looks solid on this side will be interesting to see what the other half brings. Don't you just love welding. Andy
  10. SeanF

    Clutch problems

    Since completing my rebuild, my clutch is fairly heavy and does not dis/engage until the pedal is almost at the floor. Its a Laycock clutch which was refurbished by Prestige Clutch last summer and I installed a new cross shaft with new bearings each side as well as a new steel carrier, new pin augmented by cross drilling and fitting bolt and nylock nut. I drove my friend's car a couple of weeks ago and his clutch engages/disengages almost at the top of the pedal so it became apparent that all is not right with mine. Sometimes I have to release and re-engage the clutch to select reverse or a gear if re-starting from the lights for example Before I bought the car it had had had a new master cylinder (TRW) and slave cylinder from TR shop in 2013 but these had never worked in anger because the clutch plate was seized into the pressure plate and the pin had sheared (only became obvious on stripping down). I re-used the slave as it was, and fitted a new seal kit to the master as part of the rebuild. I have just replaced that slave with an OEM TRW version from Rimmers together with a new pushrod clevis pin etc. This does not seem to have made any difference to the clutch operation so I am looking for any advice as to what to try next. I have turned the slave cylinder so that the bleed nipple is at the top when bleeding and have tried to push back on the push rod with the pedal engaged to expel any air bubbles out of the slave. Should I replace the Master cylinder? I have just ordered one. Should I be able to move the clutch cross shaft by hand? I can't. It is very stiff and when lying under the car (engine off) and the slave pushrod is applying pressure I can hear a sort of grating noise from the push rod area. The pushrod is extending approx 13mm from closed to fully open which seems to be more than enough but yet the clutch is not good. Some additional information. When rebuilding, I had to drill the end of the old sheared pin out of the clutch fork. I re-used the old fork with a new shaft and pin as I thought I had managed to drill it out cleanly. Maybe I should have just replaced the fork. Anyway, if anyone has any ideas or suggestions about what to try, to improve the clutch, which might avoid having to remove the box, I'd very much appreciate it. Many thanks in advance. Sean
  11. Hi Folks The diff was stripped and refurbed to replace the oil seals which were toast and the diff refitted to a bare chassis. Since then its moved about twenty foot while I work on the shell to the other side of the garage and stood, guess what it leaks. I like to do things once and they last but it seems not this time. I used a synthetic seal from Rimmers rather than a leather one which came out. 1) Can the seal be replaced without dropping the diff out? 2) Which is better synthetic or leather and who sells the best one? Thanks again. Andy
  12. Hello guys, I've found something rather funny about "6 pots" ring gears : could someone please explain why the teeths are chanfreined on the opposite side to the starter pinion ? My clue would be that it's an old stock who has been used : on TR250s, there is an inertia starter motor, it work the other way, so the ring gear need to be chamfreined But, as most (all ?) of my 6 pots engines (and I have some of these….) have their ring gear fitted/chanfreined to the opposite side of the stater motor pignon entry, and they ALL have pre engaged starter motor (ie as on a TR6) what's wrong in there ? Another point : who could supply good quality ring gears ? Again, I prefer to not waste time and money on poor quality parts. Thanks for your help,
  13. Hi I am looking to replace the old engine mounts on my '6. Given all the concerns about poor rubber quality, does anyone have any recommendations on supplier, or are they all the same quality / from same source? Thanks in advance Steve
  14. SeanF

    Wind Deflector

    Does anyone have any experience of this product and supplier? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triumph-TR4-TR6-Wind-Deflector-1961-1976-Mesh-Black/201525252912?hash=item2eebd75330:g:2lwAAOSwFbla~WSb:rk:17:pf:0 or if not can anyone suggest a better alternative? Many thanks, Sean
  15. I've been busy the last couple of days re modelling my TR6 loud speaker pods. I had bought and fitted Moss supplied pods at least 20 years ago with locally supplied Alpine speakers. Many years of activity, (you don't have to ask!) had taken the toll on the integrity of the hardboard backbone as highlighted in the attached photo. They also had a mind of their own and often fell down into the footwell. The used of cable ties and gaffa tape to hold them in place was never pretty. My wife bought me a Stanley staple gun for my birthday in August, and naturally I knew exactly where it was going to be used first. I have remodelled a pair but with thought for robustness and price. I have used 5mm plywood from B&Q and resourced off cuts of vinyl and a combination of 1" and 0.5" foam to suit from 'Thames Upholstery' here in Southend on Sea, Essex very generously given to me at zero cost! I used the original hardboard as a template, out came my hardly used jigsaw and copies were made. Everything else more or less fell into place, and as you can see from the photos, job done! The sound from these speakers was never that great with a distinct lack of bass as there is no baffle. However the rigid construction of these new pods has helped the sound to a small degree. They were a little tricky to get into place as the plywood does not offer much flexibility, but where there is a will, there is a way! So for the cost of less than £10 I'm very pleased with the end result. Only one downside, the 20 year speaker covers are not like new, oh yes there's always Ebay!
  16. Hi all Some might know the difficulties with the current standard offerings which means I will most likely be looking for alternatives. I was hoping to wait until I'd driven her as standard before thinking about "up grades" as suspension set up I feel is a very personal choice and dependent on how you intend to use the car. This one for a change for me is going to be a keeper and as standard as possible in all areas apart from fixing known weak areas eg chassis and safety issues and used as a road car for days out and about when the weather allows. So what's your experience of the above? Any others I should consider? The rear will be kept with the OEM lever arms for now which have already been rebuilt. Thanks Andy
  17. This winters project is to finally undertake the engineering required for my 1972 TR6 to run on unleaded fuel. I've never been a worrier on this topic, as just 3k miles per annum whilst not really stressing the engine shouldn't be too much of a problem. However after last years bottom end rebuild, replacement camshaft, cam followers and pushrods with refaced rocker arms, I think something was telling me to finish the job. The engine runs smoothly enough however does breathe heavily at idle with the rich fume under acceleration with some oil consumption. So my plan was to test the compression and remove the head for the hardened seat installation, new valve guide and general refurb. I guess I'm just hoping the bores are still serviceable at this stage. The compression data (using a Gunson gauge) over 3 rounds of tests are on the attached file. Other aspects to note are I started with a hot engine, and the exercise took about half an hour. No 3 plug had showed signs of oiling up, all the others were good. I had fitted reconditioned injectors two summers ago. I would welcome comments on the data, my immediate thoughts are not too bad? the car has covered 133k miles since new and I've have had the car for 23 years and covered about 65k miles with only major engine work (bottom end) undertaken last spring. I don't know what was done to the engine before I had bought it. Oil consumption on my annual Le Mans trip is about 500 miles per pint, I do have drips on the floor too! There is some coke on the pistons, so my next question is what's the best method to clean this up. I haven't taken a head off an engine since 1981, so my experience is patchy. The head is at Carlows in Benfleet,Essex for the work. I have a few weeks to tidy things up, hence the questions. I'll probably send the metering unit off for calibration too. So in summary, thoughts on the compression data and piston clean up please. Guidance on what to look for on the bores will be useful too. Many thanks Trevor Hughes, Essex TR Group TR6 Compression Test 09 02 2019.pdf
  18. I have removed my hood frame for painting and found that the lower countersunk screws were not present. All I have is the hex cutout in the B post. Can anyone please tell me what is missing?
  19. Evening all, Has anyone else come across this please, and how did you resolve it? A few months ago, I bought a full sun visors kit from Rimmers because my project car did not have any fitted. I've spent this afternoon fitting them and all was going well until it came to fitting the visor, complete with inner and outer bars to the clips on the screen frame. Both of the outer bars https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-812761 seem to be shaped completely wrongly in that when the outer side is secured to the bracket and screwed to the screen frame, the inner bar is pointing several inches above from the inner clip on the frame. I thought I could solve this by putting a bend in the outer bar so tightened the flat end in the vice and applied pressure at which point the bar snapped at the point where it flattens (see pic below). Seems to be very soft metal - maybe bakelite or something like that. Anyway, I will complain to Rimmers and hopefully get replacements but I presume these will also be orientated incorrectly. Has anyone come across this and solved it? Thanks, Sean
  20. Morning all, I spent an hour trying to line the clips up with the holes and the springs with the winder stalks, in the door last night. What a frustrating and ultimately unsuccessful exercise! Any tips on the way to go about it for success? Top first?, one corner?...... I'm working with brand new door cards from John Skinner and new clips. Water curtains are in etc so don't need any help with that bit, just the easy bit (I thought) TIA for any helpful advice. Sean
  21. Hi all Just fitted some Super Pro bushes to the anti roll bar using the OEM brackets and U bolts. Just wanting confirmation in that am I correct to tighten the U bolts until the brackets contact the skid plate? I have and the bushes look very distorted with the central portion of the bar almost touching the skid plate. Makes me think that the OEM brackets/retainers are not deep enough for poly these bushes and are designed for the original round ones. Thanks Andy
  22. Having restored my brakes following 24 hours under calibrated stick (ask RogerH!) I took her out this morning for a run to take advantage of the lovely sunshine here and to continue my troubleshooting. Anyway drove over to Sevenoaks on the A25 and then thought I'd try the M25 back from Jn5 to Jn6 to see how she would do. Well she did very well and coped with speed changes from lane to lane etc perfectly......however, as I was pushing up past 70 mph the speedometer needle suddenly shot all the way around to the high speed end and sat there pushing against the needle stop for a minute or so before popping off the stem and falling to the bottom of the glass. The mileometer (is that what you call it?) continues to work fine. I refurbished all the gauges as part of the restoration and didn't notice anything untoward in the speedo, but am not really qualified to notice anything amiss really. Anyone seen this before and any advice as to what might be the problem and what to do? Many thanks, Sean
  23. Evening. I would like to fit a heater valve that actually turns the heater off, what are the current recommendations ? Thanks Mark
  24. iani

    New Lid

    I popped over to TRGB this morning to collect a hardtop I'd bought from them on eBay, I noticed that there was another one in better condition and took that for a little more money. The headlining had a coating of mould but 10 mins with some baking powder and a scrubbing brush and it's come up very nicely, the roof even came with the mounting bolts for the B post.
  25. Yesterday evening I took a short drive before dusk and had just the small side marker lights lit to begin with. The whole drive probably lasted 45 minutes, but probably 20 minutes in I turned on the dipped beams. Did not use full beam at any stage. A little while later I noticed a hissing sound and quickly pulled into a pub car park to investigate. There was smoke coming out of the dash headlight light switch. I quickly yanked it out of the dash and the whole back of the switch was melted. The three terminals had fused together and pulled out of the back of the switch. The wires behind the switch were fused together and the lights stayed on. I partially separated them so the dipped beams went off but the side lamps stayed on and quickly drove home which took about 10 mins. The brown and blue wires had melted together and obviously heat was travelling down them to the extent that about 2 feet of the brown and blue wires are melted/fused and partly stripped. This is a brand new wiring loom from Autosparks equipped with relays for full and dipped beams and has only done 175 miles since restoration. The lights are Cibie units with H4 nightbreaker bulbs. Apart from being completely gutted, I have no idea how this can happen. Do you think this is a fault in the loom, or was there a short in the switch? It is (was) the original clear hooters switch and there was a slight fault in the rocking action between off and position one for the marker lights in that it would struggle to stay in position one and want to either jump back to off or to position 2. Not sure if this is relevant as it seemed to work correctly in terms of turning on and off. Anyone have any thoughts or suggestions? Cheers, Sean
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