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Found 691 results

  1. Just thought I would share some information regarding voltage stabilisers. Both Moss and Rimmers specify the part number 128484 for both TR4 and TR4A. However this stabiliser is for positive earth only vehicles (i.e. original TR4 spec). As such they will not work on the TR4A. Instead you should fit the TR5 unit part number 148876A which is for negative earth cars (TR4A and later). This is because these later units have solid state internals and need to be connected with correct polarity. The original stabilisers had a bimetal strip with a heating wire coiled around it. Voltage was regulated by the rapid make and break of the bimetal strip. Didn't matter whether positive or negative earth for those types. Would work either way. Earlier Moss solid state units had part numbers 131-555 for negative earth and 131-556 for positive earth if you have one of those. This all came to light this morning when I turned out the spares in the boot to find that my spare voltage stabiliser was a positive earth rather than negative for my 4A. Also discovered the spare spark plugs had gone rusty and were not the same as in the car and the spare radiator cap had disintegrated. Time for a spares spring clean I think to see what other junk I have been driving around with in the boot. Keith
  2. I need to raise the drivers door on my TR4A by 2-3mm. The manual suggests this can be done by releasing the bolts on the hinge (3 bolts per hinge) Any suggestions on how to do this, particularly how to hold the door in place when I release the bolts.
  3. Hi all, Just hoping to get some advice from some of the more experienced members here as to whether it is possible - or advisable - to have TR4 lower control arms welded up by a competent welder. The arms on both sides have out-of-round holes where the bearings have worn through, and these are very hard to find in Australia, and the ones which pop up on various sites often seem to be in worse condition than mine anyway..so refurbishment by welding, drilling and reaming is probably going to be easier than replacement. Has anyone done it, or had it done, or seen or heard of any catastrophic failures resulting from this? IMG_6296.HEIC IMG_6301.HEIC Best regards Pete
  4. I have rubbed the casing flange to bare metal where the parts book indicates the number is, but there is nothing there! Can anyone advise where I will find it? All that is on the casing near the vent is TC2 [in upside down position!] Yours hopefully Willie
  5. My current task has been to fit a new windscreen & glazing rubber - not a massive problem, done a couple before & have the help of number two son who is isolating at home. In anticipation of doing the work I bought a new seal from TR shop as I thought the old one may be a bit hard by now. Tried to fit it to the screen with a squirt of soapy water the same as always and found I had what can best be described as several inches too much to fit! - The profile looks absolutely correct but there isn't a hope in hell it's going on this screen. I cleaned of the old one & ten minutes later - job done & fitted, shouldn't have bought the new one.... Anyone else encountered this issue?
  6. Hi, My TR4 has the conventional set up of a wide fan belt and lucas dynamo. The dynamo cannot swing enough towards the engine to allow the belt to become clear of the dynamo pulley so as to remove and refit. Is this how it should be and the procedure then is to remove the dynamo pulley or water pump pulley to allow the removal/fitting of the belt? Thanks Andy
  7. ronhatch

    Boot seal

    Hi All, I have a boot seal from rimmers but it doesn't let my boot close, It's ok at the top and sides but at the bottom edge I can't get it near the lock (ok without the seal) the seal is an h shape and is quite rigid, thoughts please. Regards Ron
  8. ronhatch

    boot stay

    Hi All, I have a body bracket for the telescopic boot stay but don't know the location, could someone post a photo with a tape measure for reference of this item please. Regards Ron
  9. Hello, I am drawing to the end of taking my gearbox out, replacing seals, and refitting. As part of this project I have the car on axle stands and was going to run the car to allow the new oil to circulate the gearbox and overdrive. However, upon starting the car the idle speed just keeps going up and up and something is clearly wrong. I have backed off the fast idle screws completely, ensured that the choke screws are not engaging, and checked the oil in the dash-pots to no avail. As I have done nothing to interfere with the engine or HS6 carburettors recently I am at a loss as what could have changed and need some help please. Many thanks.
  10. I have a load of original Girling 16P brake calipers that are about to be refurbished by Bigg Red. I have had one pair finished in black to go behind the black wire wheels on my BRG racecar. my plan is to have these plated (not painted) in either the original type gold or silver. There will be new pistons and seals etc. Basically, they will be fully reconditioned and ready to fit. The point of this post is to ask that if anyone is looking for a pair and wants then done in a particular finish, let me know as I will be taking to be done next week. Price depends on finish. Final point is that these are original castings and not the repro ones!! David
  11. Hi Forum, I am currently working to replace various seals on my TR4 gearbox in the vain hope of stopping drips. So I do not make an error in copying a previous owners mistake may I ask about replacing the oil seal in the gearbox nose/input shaft. Should the new oil seal sit in the base of the nose housing or does it simply sit flush with the upper surface. I think it might be tapered and so the seal will not seat all the way down but I want to be sure as the new one does not want to go in too far. The workshop manual and internet do not seem to give me any pictures to help. Many thanks Mark
  12. Hi Everyone, A quick set of related questions. Whilst draining the aluminium fuel tank on my 1964 TR4 ready to install R9 grade fuel hose everywhere, I hadn't opened the fuel tank cap and noticed that when I did it hissed as the lid was raised. The tank was less than half full. Is there a vent anywhere? Do I have anything to worry about? I am hoping that flow to standard layout Strombergs will not lead to disaster in normal flow demand from the tank. Am I correct, or is there a vent somewhere that I need to sort out? Fuel cap is standard flip up type. Best wishes Willie
  13. Seeking a small diameter hub boss. My TR2 steering column has a splined end that the steering wheel hub fits onto. Do later TR models like TR4, TR5 have the same splined end of the steering column? I need to buy an aftermarket hub boss that fits those splines, in order to fit a restored specialty steering wheel for my Doretti (using same TR2 column). But I don’t want to use the large diameter boss that is available from Moss to fit a Moto-Lita wheel to a sidescreen TR - because I have a smaller wheel center that is more like TR4. Wheel is pictured. So if I buy an aftermarket TR4 hub boss, might the splines fit my TR2 style Doretti column? Dan
  14. Hi , I have an early tr4 myself (chassis around 6800). After some research, it turned out that my tr4 must have instruments with long needles. This like the tr3. My question was what about the lighting? My instruments (with short needles) have a light for each on the back. The tr3 instruments have two central lights, I thought. Is this correct? So for my tr4, do I have to have instruments with long needles and the system of two central lights (TR3) or the back of the new model (short needles TR4) and the front of a TR3 (convex glass, long needles). I hope someone can help me out :).
  15. Any one out there tried these? They also do a rear wing repair section which I guess will do TR4-6. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/61-68-Triumph-TR4-TR4A-TR250-RH-Front-Fender-Wing-Repair-Panel-New-Free-Ship/123054546890?hash=item1ca69f5fca:g:Y70AAOxydyxSP2EY
  16. Good afternoon everyone. I am about to undertake overhaul of the rocker gear on my 1964 TR4 and wondered if there is any reason why I shouldn't use split pins instead of Mills pins to secure the end caps to the rocker shaft. It appears to be standard on 6 cylinder engines. 3/32 size appears to fit the larger engine. Same size holes on 4 cylinder? Many thanks in anticipation Willie
  17. Gents, before I find the energy to post it in the Classifieds here is my restored aluminum surrey hardtop surplus to requirement. It's complete with seals; headlining; braces; SS trim; original fixing points/threads and knobs. Painted in Silverstone grey, it will nicely combine with any of the standard TR colors. I concur that £ 900 isn't cheap but rare enough in this condition and a direct fit. Please PM for details and more pictures. Cheers
  18. Since a while there is a noise when I am driving over a bump or a hole. With the front wheels there is no problem. The sound is only there when I ride over it with the rear wheels. Can it be the rear shock absorbers? The exhaust is also properly attached. If I push the back of the car (when it is standing still) there is nothing to be heard. Only when driving over a bump or hole. Does anyone have an idea what this could be?
  19. ronhatch


    Hi all, the original headlights have corroded inside so I need to change them, my first thoughts are to buy similar but upgrade the bulb but what about sealed beam ? I also have a new loom but the bulb holders for the ignition light and the flasher light on the dash wont fit into the red and green lenses, do I hack off the new bulb holder and replace with the old ones or is there a better solution ? Thoughts please. Cheers Ron
  20. My tr4 is lower on the driver's side. If I measure the distance from the ground to the chassis, it is the same height. The chassis is not damaged and has not had an accident. If you look at the car you can see it is lower on the driver's side. Almost 1.5 inches I think. In the meantime we have replaced the springs and the buses of the triangles but still standing lower. Can someone help me to fix this? The car is driving perfectly but it's a pity of the hight.
  21. Probably the wrong place for this topic/post. However, I have this one cluttering up the workshop and am open to any sensible offers via eBay. I’d love it to go to a new home. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lucas-ammeter-Range-Rover-classic-Triumph-Morris-Austin-50-0-50/254270361591?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 if it’s of interest, please make an offer, whatever you feel it’s worth to you. David
  22. Hi All A very quick question; does anyone know if the metal dash is different between the TR4 and the TR4A (aside from the fact the TR4A has the additonal veneered bit)? I want to put a TR4 metal dash on a TR4A and need to make sure the instruments and switches will still all fit. As usual, thank you all in advance!!! Adam
  23. JJC

    Earth strap

    Grateful if someone would let me know where the engine earth strap is. Just wanted to check it but can’t see it fo the minute. Thanks JJC
  24. Hi Folks, yesterday I renewed the battery on my '64 TR4 and the guy tested the battery under load [engine running, lights on]. It gave 13.8 volts so all well. However, the alternator conversion is causing the ammeter to give a significant apparent discharge. Does anyone have details of wiring which correct the ammeter reading to include alternator input? Pic attached of the ammeter with engine running and lights on. Best wishes Willie
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