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Found 666 results

  1. Hi Everyone, Why do I always find jobs not referred to in various workshop manuals?? Yesterday on a good hill climbing day out in S Wales more than once we experienced very obvious bottoming out. I was trying to assess if the bump stops have turned round with the raised surfaces pointing to front/back instead of up/down. The parts book seems to show the shoulders [with the hole] pointing upwards. Can anyone supply a decent shot or diagram which will give me confidence to know I have got it right? Also, I am considering fitting poly bumps. Is this a good idea? I attach a shot of the NS which shows the hole in the bump stop pointing backwards not downwards. Should the rubber be under the check strap? Best wishes Willie
  2. Long story (there’s a post way back) but in short what it’s doing now is starting, running on 4, blip throttle, backfires both ends, back carb starts flooding. In getting to where we are everything obvious has been tried and everything that could go wrong has. yes there is fuel, yes there is spark, no the timing isn’t out. Yes I have replaced the float chamber jets. Yes the carbs were set up properly. Yes the plugs were replaced and are not faulty (unlike the previous set of new plugs). It’s a mystery and it’s getting on my nerves Thank goodness the 6 works JJC
  3. Hi All, I was challenged the other day - the indicator switch on my TR4 is on the wrong side, quoth he! My non-overdrive has the stem on the left. He said it should be on the right. The original handbook states that it is on the "inboard side of the steering column cowl, [and shows it there in the labelling of Instruments & Indicators, both LHD and RHD]. I sent a tech query to Moss and Adam replied thus...."I have always known the switch to be mounted on the right side as sitting in the driver's seat in a RHD car. As a family we have a Mk3 Spitfire, Mk1 Vitesse and a TR6 all with overdrive and the indicator switches are all on the right side of the column, same side as the column overdrive switch. > Our schematic shows it on the right side too." Bill Piggott's originality tome describes it as being on the steering column on the opposite side to the optional overdrive. My gut feel is that makes it on the LEFT as mine is. I suspect there is a danger of parts books favouring US cars due to the overwhelming number of LHDs to RHDs. Pic attached of my car's twig. I look forward to expert opinion! Best wishes Willie
  4. I've recently fitted a Moss after market servo to my TR4. Emergency braking is very good but normal use is erratic, sometimes no effect and sometimes fierce and grabbing. The hydraulics were fitted professionally by a trusted local garage. Is this normal or do I have a fault? Can anyone help?
  5. Hi All, I am soon going to attempt to wire in a hazard switch to my 1964 TR4. Then wiring to the existing old-looking relay is confusing as it doesn't match up to a wiring diagram. I attach photos of the current relay comprising 2 double spade connections stamped "B" and "I" with a rivet stamped "E". On the two "B" spades are a single dark green, and a light green and dark green wire fixed together. On one of the "I" spades is a green/black wire. The stamp is definitely "I" , not "L". On the relay supplied in the hazard kit you will see 2 terminals stamped "B" and "L". "B" has a green/red wire, and "L" a purple wire. With the double spade set up on the non-hazard relay, I assume a piggyback spade is required. Do I attach the "I" connection on the current unit to the "L" on the new relay? Which is correct - the new hazard relay replaces the current flasher unit, OR the hazard relay is an extra unit requiring the existing unit to remain in place? I hope this makes sense! Best wishes Willie
  6. I am about to change the gearbox/overdrive oil & cannot remember from last time what the arrangement of the o/d oil filter is when the large brass nut is undone with the special spanner. Do the filter & magnets just drop out when the nut is released or are they attached inside? Obviously one has to be careful not to lose any items when the oil flushes out!
  7. Hello All, I think have read every post relating to wire wheels and genuine minilites. Although I haven't seen this topic brought up and I am keen to hear people's thoughts. Currently I have 72 spoke 5.5 inch wires on my TR4A although the wheels are in great shape, I am not a huge fan of wires. I am tempted by genuine minilites, however discussion regarding Dunlop's M-Type wheel has stirred my interest enough to raise this topic and seek other members opinions. The thing is that I have always loved the "world" badge that comes with the TR4A and as the steel wheels with hubcaps has this emblem on it they would be my preferred choice over wires or minilites. However the issue is that the steels only come in 4.5 inches width (I am fairly surr you can't get 5.5 inch steel wheels and fit these hubcaps?) and my understanding is that the strength and quality of these steel wheels is questionable, particularly when compared to something like a genuine minilites. So here are my questions... If money was not a consideration, could someone buy Dunlop M-Type Wheels and have the "world" hub caps retro fitted to them? And even if this was possible would they be considered crazy for modifying a wonderful set of alloys? I am really keen to hear people's thoughts on this. Regards. Paul
  8. monty

    Ammeter again

    I notice various previous posts but my ammeter has just started playing up @ higher revs. Just fitted a new battery but the ammeter needle was wildly flickering fully across the gauge @ around 2500 rpm & above before the new battery & still now first day out with the new one. A normal reading after startup of around zero & up to the 2500 & then it goes mad! Running with an alternator & it seems to have started within the last 100 miles. Everything else electrical appears normal. Any ideas?
  9. Morning all, Last night I was doing some final checks under my TR4 following some rear axle work - thinking that my car would be back on the road again after many months. However, I noticed a fuel drip on the outlet pipe of the petrol tank and looked to tighten the connector onto the olive. However, the drip is worse and to my eye seems to stem from above the outlet hole as the protector pad is sodden with fuel. I fear that the brazing around the outlet has given way and I will need to take the tank out to check. Shame because the tank was in good condition and I had coated it with slosh type epoxy a couple of years ago. My questions to the forum are: Can the outlet be re-sealed with a DIY solution like mentioned before - superglue Is any garage likely to take on the task of brazing/soldering the outlet as a repair Is there any point in trying to source a used tank as a replacement Has anyone got any experience of the new steel petrol tanks from TR specialists Have the aluminium petrol tanks improved enough to be value for money, to fit without fettling, and be robust enough to last. If so any recommendations? Many thanks, Mark
  10. It's driving me nuts.....can't seem to keep wiper arms on wheel boxes if screen is slightly dry. Has anyone ever successfully drilled a small hole through the assembly and physically restrained the arm to the wheelbox with a split pin or similar> Ideas and forebodings welcomed! Best wishes Willie
  11. ronhatch


    Hi all, My radiator is leaking, should I go for a recore or a brand new one ? It is the old long necked radiator so it would look original but the main priority is cooling and reliability. I will be fitting an electric fan and thermostat. Regards Ron
  12. I am ready to sell my TR4 project, it is a running car and is 95% complete. It is 1964 UK RHD Conifer Green with overdrive and wire wheels. I have the Heritage certificate and V5. 2 owners before me and it went off the road in 1988. I have rebuilt the body tub using Heritage panels, external panels are still in original paint. I can email pictures, I have loads. Please PM if interested for more details. Best pictures too big to post here. My estimate is £8,000 to £10,000 and I will sell to the best offer.
  13. ronhatch


    Hi All, after an enforced lay off from rebuilding my TR4 I finally made sense of the electrics ( sort of ) got the petrol through, and after 45 years it started first time. This was a bit of a surprise as I had only meant to crank it via the solenoid to get some oil in the pots but I had left the ignition on. After the initial shock and some panic ( it was in gear although up on stands ) I had a stupid smile on my gob. After playing around with stopping and starting it to make sure it wasn't a fluke I set about tuning it. I then had to take off the battery lead which was when I noticed a small spark. after eliminating everything I discovered the the new alternator was getting warm by draining power from the battery. I checked all my wiring including the alteration to the control box and all was in order although I had previously noted that the lead to the alternator plug had a small and large brown wire and a small brown and yellow wire, there is also a (spare) large brown and yellow and a small brown and green taped together. I bought the loom from moss or rimmers and specified the alternator variant. Whats wrong ? Any help would be great. (still got a smile on my gob though ) Regards Ron
  14. What are the minimum battery requirements for a TR4? I have a Numax 42AH type 015 in the car @ the moment that has been in the car for at least 4 years but it struggled to start this morning despite being always trickle charged with a CTEK charger, so I think it may be on the way out! It is quite small which is an advantage but should I increase the size to say 45AH? Battery Megastore offer several options @ a good price for Varta or Bosch.
  15. As I am installing a low port head that was previously shaved, I am having trouble with the rocker gear geometry (so I am using one shim under the rocker pedestal) and also with the exhaust manifold now interfering with the block head so that it can't be tightened up. Is it ok if I shave the manifold flange so it fits? Does this mean my compression ratio is going to be really high? Dan
  16. marko

    45 Weber's

    Here is a pair of very rare Weber 45 DCOE 9 Carbs. Made in Italy, not the cheap Spanish or Portuguese ones. Serial numbers 4557 and 3359 so likely 1970's complete with period SAH inlet manifolds (also rare) and linkages for 4 cylinder TR's. Ideal for fast road or competition use. Inspected and valued at £600 for the Carbs, £250 for the inlet manifolds and £100 for the linkages etc. Sensible offers considered. Look on Ebay, there is a single DCOE459 for £1350!! Grab a bargain
  17. Folks, I'm about to pull the rear axle on my green TR4 which has an original Salisbury LSD fitted. The current axle is shot for a number or reasons (courtesy of a DPO welding the nuts to the axles... ) so I am going to fit an American Tr4a live axle for it's preferred strength but have the LSD rebuilt & fitted into the new axle. My question is - who in the Country is best to go to for a rebuild on my Salisbury LSD? Thanks
  18. I realized today that the headlights in my '63 TR4 stopped working. And the overdrive also stopped working. I'm very new to this car and not familiar with the electrical system. Thinking things through, I did just finish working on two things related to my electrics: 1.) I just added a battery charger cable/lead to the battery. In doing so, I did touch the wrench to a ground by mistake, creating a spark. 2.) I relocated my dip switch (up higher) to create a dead pedal spot for my left foot . Both fuses appear OK. And reading a few forum entries here on Triumph Experience, I understand the TR4 headlights are not fused. So what should I check?? Thanks in advance.
  19. monty

    Noisy tappets

    I have a noisy tappet(s). A bit of a rattle on start up that does not dimInish much when hot. I have a fast road cam that recommends around 0.020 clearances when cold which I suspect is why they rattle. Two choices I guess, reduce the clearances to nearer the standard of 0.010 or accept the recommendation & have the noise. Which is likely to be more harmful, too little clearance or large clearance with the noise?
  20. Not posted anything technical for a while but this one should get some heads scratching. Had to pull out of the RBRR on Saturday evening due to a misfire problem. The car goes fine through the gears and revs up to 5k with no hint of a misfire but when on a motorway in overdrive top at about 3500 rpm (so 80 ish) it starts to misfire and lose power. Pretty much consistently- does somtimes pull for a while at 3500 but then a misfire sets it. Car slows to 60 ish or less. However, once youve left the motorway, generally it clears and you can cane it down a B road without a hint of an issue. I am running with an Accuspark distributor which has proved faultless for many miles. However, swapped that by the roadside for a brand new one of the same make (new leads to coil supplied with it) and the problem re - occurred in exactly the same way. Changed coil and plug leads. Had carbs apart and cleaned and blown out float chambers etc. Fuel pump reconditoned by the chap recommended on here a few years ago but may be culprit? Changed the inline fuel filter and there were what seemed like bits of fuel hose floating around -I wondered if high fuel demand meant these blocked the filter but lower flow meant these bits weren't a problem - however given that swapping it didnt change things, that theory was blown. I feel its a fuelling issue but not really sure. Any thoughts or observations most welcome. Bob
  21. Hi Guys There was one of these cars at the Swiss Classic British Car Meeting on last Saturday ------ Very Nice! There was also about 8 Jensen Interseptors all from U.K. and who had driven down especially for the show, so plus the other local CV8´s and Interseptors there were about 12 of the marque in all. Aston Martin was the car of the show this year, so the place was crawling with them from MK.2/4 and up to DB6 and the more modern types which to not impress me as much as the classic style. Also present was the Jaguar F type, also not as classy as the E type or XK 120´s,140´s and 150´s IMHO. TR´s were present in force as well from a long door TR2 right up to a TR7/8. Apologies for the double spacing, but I can´t find how to eliminate that. Dave
  22. ronhatch


    Hi all, the original headlights have corroded inside so I need to change them, my first thoughts are to buy similar but upgrade the bulb but what about sealed beam ? I also have a new loom but the bulb holders for the ignition light and the flasher light on the dash wont fit into the red and green lenses, do I hack off the new bulb holder and replace with the old ones or is there a better solution ? Thoughts please. Cheers Ron
  23. Around 350 miles ago the water pump which had been on the car for at least 10k miles started leaking from the hole underneath & I noticed a loss of coolant from the radiator. I replaced the unit with a freshly rebuilt quality bearing unit which has also now started to leak after only 30 miles, with the same kind of dribble from the same hole. No different symptoms from the first pump. As well as the water dribble I noticed that around a minute or so after stopping the engine there were a couple of spurts of water out of the hole as if under a bit of pressure? The pump supplier has said that the first failure was due to the new bearings not settling in properly due to perhaps some loosened debris from the engine, maybe a little bit of dislodged rusty stuff? The engine was completely rebuilt around 12k miles ago & is fitted with an alloy radiator & the coolant is very clean & has been thoroughly flushed about 2 years ago with no debris appearing then. Any ideas? If these steel items are failing, even so-called quality items, should I go to an expensive billet alloy unit? Has anybody any experience of the alloy pump & how does it react with say a steel housing? Thanks. t
  24. ronhatch

    Ally trim

    Hi all, getting to the stage where I need to clean up my ally trim, had a go trying to polish all the pit marks out ,no good. So I thought of getting them repainted by an alloy wheel restorer, anyone done this ? Thoughts please Also where is the best supplier of SS bumpers ? Regards Ron
  25. Hi peeps After more than 2 years slumber I woke the beast last weekend. Fresh petrol, charged up battery and refilled coolant. Plugs out, spun up oil pressure, plugs back in and primed fuel bowls. Turned the key and engine fired into life instantly. Now the thing is that I guessed at the ignition timing and had the H6 carbs mixture mid position (12 flats down) after rebuilding both and it ran quite nicely. But it was a bit smokey when revved up. So I thought I would read up on basic timing and made myself a test light to do the basic set up. Following instructions I put my No 1 piston at tdc and the advance/retard adjuster on the side of my dizzy mid position and rotated dizzy anti-clockwise so the test light was just coming on at the leading edge of the cam on the dizzy. Then dialled in 4 degrees advance. First thing was the amount the dizzy had to be turned to get it to correct position. It was MILES OUT!! ~I reckon 15 degrees advanced. Restarted the engine and it fired up instantly again and I noticed 2 things. 1) It had stopped smoking and seemed to idle better and 2) It seemed to be getting hot a lot quicker (I have an electric fan so no engine fan) than before and the fan cut in after a very short time, maybe 5 minutes. Unfortunately my temp gauge has stopped working so I couldnt see how hot it was but it didnt get overhot and the fan seemed to cope. I then set up the mixture with a colourtune and found the front carb very lean but the back carb ok. Now I'm a bit paranoid about this because I'm sure I holed a piston years ago running very lean or badly tuned so although it seems to be OK I welcome advice from more knowledgeable peeps on the above and or the next step. Cheers
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