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Found 674 results

  1. Probably the wrong place for this topic/post. However, I have this one cluttering up the workshop and am open to any sensible offers via eBay. I’d love it to go to a new home. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lucas-ammeter-Range-Rover-classic-Triumph-Morris-Austin-50-0-50/254270361591?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 if it’s of interest, please make an offer, whatever you feel it’s worth to you. David
  2. Hi All A very quick question; does anyone know if the metal dash is different between the TR4 and the TR4A (aside from the fact the TR4A has the additonal veneered bit)? I want to put a TR4 metal dash on a TR4A and need to make sure the instruments and switches will still all fit. As usual, thank you all in advance!!! Adam
  3. I have a load of original Girling 16P brake calipers that are about to be refurbished by Bigg Red. I have had one pair finished in black to go behind the black wire wheels on my BRG racecar. my plan is to have these plated (not painted) in either the original type gold or silver. There will be new pistons and seals etc. Basically, they will be fully reconditioned and ready to fit. The point of this post is to ask that if anyone is looking for a pair and wants then done in a particular finish, let me know as I will be taking to be done next week. Price depends on finish. Final point is that these are original castings and not the repro ones!! David
  4. JJC

    Earth strap

    Grateful if someone would let me know where the engine earth strap is. Just wanted to check it but can’t see it fo the minute. Thanks JJC
  5. Hi Folks, yesterday I renewed the battery on my '64 TR4 and the guy tested the battery under load [engine running, lights on]. It gave 13.8 volts so all well. However, the alternator conversion is causing the ammeter to give a significant apparent discharge. Does anyone have details of wiring which correct the ammeter reading to include alternator input? Pic attached of the ammeter with engine running and lights on. Best wishes Willie
  6. What are people's thoughts on the oil change intervals for a gearbox with J type overdrive. It was 6 years ago when I last did a change but only 6000 miles since. Should I change due to the time or not bother yet because of the low mileage. Another conundrum for cars that cover low mileages!
  7. Hello All, I think have read every post relating to wire wheels and genuine minilites. Although I haven't seen this topic brought up and I am keen to hear people's thoughts. Currently I have 72 spoke 5.5 inch wires on my TR4A although the wheels are in great shape, I am not a huge fan of wires. I am tempted by genuine minilites, however discussion regarding Dunlop's M-Type wheel has stirred my interest enough to raise this topic and seek other members opinions. The thing is that I have always loved the "world" badge that comes with the TR4A and as the steel wheels with hubcaps has this emblem on it they would be my preferred choice over wires or minilites. However the issue is that the steels only come in 4.5 inches width (I am fairly surr you can't get 5.5 inch steel wheels and fit these hubcaps?) and my understanding is that the strength and quality of these steel wheels is questionable, particularly when compared to something like a genuine minilites. So here are my questions... If money was not a consideration, could someone buy Dunlop M-Type Wheels and have the "world" hub caps retro fitted to them? And even if this was possible would they be considered crazy for modifying a wonderful set of alloys? I am really keen to hear people's thoughts on this. Regards. Paul
  8. I'm planning to replace my cam followers and am wondering which is best- uprated (with drain hole for oil) Tuftrided, which I'm thinking are the black coloured ones I've seen, or 'ordinary'. Any help would be appreciated. James
  9. I just want to double check recommended oil grades for my TR4 engine was re built 2years ago & I have been using Penrite 10W-50 extra zinc full mineral which I think is correct just had the gearbox & J type overdrive re furbished - believe EP 90 GL4 is the correct oil but some people use the same as the engine as I understand - is the Penrite ok? and for the diff - not been re built but still performing ok - what should i use? and want to re-do the uprated lever arm dampers - what is the best oil grade for them? any advice would be much appreciated Graeme
  10. Hi Everyone, Why do I always find jobs not referred to in various workshop manuals?? Yesterday on a good hill climbing day out in S Wales more than once we experienced very obvious bottoming out. I was trying to assess if the bump stops have turned round with the raised surfaces pointing to front/back instead of up/down. The parts book seems to show the shoulders [with the hole] pointing upwards. Can anyone supply a decent shot or diagram which will give me confidence to know I have got it right? Also, I am considering fitting poly bumps. Is this a good idea? I attach a shot of the NS which shows the hole in the bump stop pointing backwards not downwards. Should the rubber be under the check strap? Best wishes Willie
  11. Hi all, I have a small issue with the running of my TR4 and would welcome your thoughts - mindful of the potential range of solutions. During normal road use I find that there is some slight hesitation when I decelerate fully and then accelerate again. I find that if I enrich the mixture on the HS6 SUs then the hesitation goes, but I am left with blackened spark plugs, indicating that it is too rich. I can find no problems with inlet manifold sealing, the gaps on plugs and points seem good, there is oil in the dashpots, and the car idles nicely. Hard acceleration is OK but I would like to improve the smooth driving if possible. I wonder if I need to alter the timing or something else? Many thanks Mark
  12. Long story (there’s a post way back) but in short what it’s doing now is starting, running on 4, blip throttle, backfires both ends, back carb starts flooding. In getting to where we are everything obvious has been tried and everything that could go wrong has. yes there is fuel, yes there is spark, no the timing isn’t out. Yes I have replaced the float chamber jets. Yes the carbs were set up properly. Yes the plugs were replaced and are not faulty (unlike the previous set of new plugs). It’s a mystery and it’s getting on my nerves Thank goodness the 6 works JJC
  13. Hi All, I was challenged the other day - the indicator switch on my TR4 is on the wrong side, quoth he! My non-overdrive has the stem on the left. He said it should be on the right. The original handbook states that it is on the "inboard side of the steering column cowl, [and shows it there in the labelling of Instruments & Indicators, both LHD and RHD]. I sent a tech query to Moss and Adam replied thus...."I have always known the switch to be mounted on the right side as sitting in the driver's seat in a RHD car. As a family we have a Mk3 Spitfire, Mk1 Vitesse and a TR6 all with overdrive and the indicator switches are all on the right side of the column, same side as the column overdrive switch. > Our schematic shows it on the right side too." Bill Piggott's originality tome describes it as being on the steering column on the opposite side to the optional overdrive. My gut feel is that makes it on the LEFT as mine is. I suspect there is a danger of parts books favouring US cars due to the overwhelming number of LHDs to RHDs. Pic attached of my car's twig. I look forward to expert opinion! Best wishes Willie
  14. I've recently fitted a Moss after market servo to my TR4. Emergency braking is very good but normal use is erratic, sometimes no effect and sometimes fierce and grabbing. The hydraulics were fitted professionally by a trusted local garage. Is this normal or do I have a fault? Can anyone help?
  15. Hi All, I am soon going to attempt to wire in a hazard switch to my 1964 TR4. Then wiring to the existing old-looking relay is confusing as it doesn't match up to a wiring diagram. I attach photos of the current relay comprising 2 double spade connections stamped "B" and "I" with a rivet stamped "E". On the two "B" spades are a single dark green, and a light green and dark green wire fixed together. On one of the "I" spades is a green/black wire. The stamp is definitely "I" , not "L". On the relay supplied in the hazard kit you will see 2 terminals stamped "B" and "L". "B" has a green/red wire, and "L" a purple wire. With the double spade set up on the non-hazard relay, I assume a piggyback spade is required. Do I attach the "I" connection on the current unit to the "L" on the new relay? Which is correct - the new hazard relay replaces the current flasher unit, OR the hazard relay is an extra unit requiring the existing unit to remain in place? I hope this makes sense! Best wishes Willie
  16. I am about to change the gearbox/overdrive oil & cannot remember from last time what the arrangement of the o/d oil filter is when the large brass nut is undone with the special spanner. Do the filter & magnets just drop out when the nut is released or are they attached inside? Obviously one has to be careful not to lose any items when the oil flushes out!
  17. monty

    Ammeter again

    I notice various previous posts but my ammeter has just started playing up @ higher revs. Just fitted a new battery but the ammeter needle was wildly flickering fully across the gauge @ around 2500 rpm & above before the new battery & still now first day out with the new one. A normal reading after startup of around zero & up to the 2500 & then it goes mad! Running with an alternator & it seems to have started within the last 100 miles. Everything else electrical appears normal. Any ideas?
  18. Morning all, Last night I was doing some final checks under my TR4 following some rear axle work - thinking that my car would be back on the road again after many months. However, I noticed a fuel drip on the outlet pipe of the petrol tank and looked to tighten the connector onto the olive. However, the drip is worse and to my eye seems to stem from above the outlet hole as the protector pad is sodden with fuel. I fear that the brazing around the outlet has given way and I will need to take the tank out to check. Shame because the tank was in good condition and I had coated it with slosh type epoxy a couple of years ago. My questions to the forum are: Can the outlet be re-sealed with a DIY solution like mentioned before - superglue Is any garage likely to take on the task of brazing/soldering the outlet as a repair Is there any point in trying to source a used tank as a replacement Has anyone got any experience of the new steel petrol tanks from TR specialists Have the aluminium petrol tanks improved enough to be value for money, to fit without fettling, and be robust enough to last. If so any recommendations? Many thanks, Mark
  19. It's driving me nuts.....can't seem to keep wiper arms on wheel boxes if screen is slightly dry. Has anyone ever successfully drilled a small hole through the assembly and physically restrained the arm to the wheelbox with a split pin or similar> Ideas and forebodings welcomed! Best wishes Willie
  20. ronhatch


    Hi all, My radiator is leaking, should I go for a recore or a brand new one ? It is the old long necked radiator so it would look original but the main priority is cooling and reliability. I will be fitting an electric fan and thermostat. Regards Ron
  21. I am ready to sell my TR4 project, it is a running car and is 95% complete. It is 1964 UK RHD Conifer Green with overdrive and wire wheels. I have the Heritage certificate and V5. 2 owners before me and it went off the road in 1988. I have rebuilt the body tub using Heritage panels, external panels are still in original paint. I can email pictures, I have loads. Please PM if interested for more details. Best pictures too big to post here. My estimate is £8,000 to £10,000 and I will sell to the best offer.
  22. ronhatch


    Hi All, after an enforced lay off from rebuilding my TR4 I finally made sense of the electrics ( sort of ) got the petrol through, and after 45 years it started first time. This was a bit of a surprise as I had only meant to crank it via the solenoid to get some oil in the pots but I had left the ignition on. After the initial shock and some panic ( it was in gear although up on stands ) I had a stupid smile on my gob. After playing around with stopping and starting it to make sure it wasn't a fluke I set about tuning it. I then had to take off the battery lead which was when I noticed a small spark. after eliminating everything I discovered the the new alternator was getting warm by draining power from the battery. I checked all my wiring including the alteration to the control box and all was in order although I had previously noted that the lead to the alternator plug had a small and large brown wire and a small brown and yellow wire, there is also a (spare) large brown and yellow and a small brown and green taped together. I bought the loom from moss or rimmers and specified the alternator variant. Whats wrong ? Any help would be great. (still got a smile on my gob though ) Regards Ron
  23. What are the minimum battery requirements for a TR4? I have a Numax 42AH type 015 in the car @ the moment that has been in the car for at least 4 years but it struggled to start this morning despite being always trickle charged with a CTEK charger, so I think it may be on the way out! It is quite small which is an advantage but should I increase the size to say 45AH? Battery Megastore offer several options @ a good price for Varta or Bosch.
  24. As I am installing a low port head that was previously shaved, I am having trouble with the rocker gear geometry (so I am using one shim under the rocker pedestal) and also with the exhaust manifold now interfering with the block head so that it can't be tightened up. Is it ok if I shave the manifold flange so it fits? Does this mean my compression ratio is going to be really high? Dan
  25. marko

    45 Weber's

    Here is a pair of very rare Weber 45 DCOE 9 Carbs. Made in Italy, not the cheap Spanish or Portuguese ones. Serial numbers 4557 and 3359 so likely 1970's complete with period SAH inlet manifolds (also rare) and linkages for 4 cylinder TR's. Ideal for fast road or competition use. Inspected and valued at £600 for the Carbs, £250 for the inlet manifolds and £100 for the linkages etc. Sensible offers considered. Look on Ebay, there is a single DCOE459 for £1350!! Grab a bargain
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