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  1. Last week I was able to purchase a (hopefully) original surrey top. How should you mount the backlight? Remove aluminum frames? Does the back cover come under the backlight? Do all rubbers have to be replaced? The rubber between the backlight and the body is not included. Where can I buy it? Thanks for the info :)!!
  2. Hi All, I would appreciate feedback on whether or not my tacho cable is fed the wrong side of the master cylinders bracket and, whether the cable is too long. A few photos attached to illustrate. If too long, where do I obtain the correct length? Best wishes Willie
  3. Hi all, I'm pondering hood storage in the boot, my thoughts are either place the hood on the spare tyre and the cover it with a suitable piece of plywood on a couple of runners to stop pressure damage or some sort of plywood lid attached to the boot frame. Has anybody done this ? any thoughts, advice or photos would be helpful. Regards Ron
  4. ronhatch


    Hi all, I am putting together an emergency toolkit for my 1962 TR4 . I will include the usual set of spanners, an adjustable spanner, hammer, gaffer tape, screwdrivers, pliers, length of wire, points, condenser,feeler gauges and torch. Is there anything you can think of that I might need, something that you've stood by the roadside thinking "I wish I would have brought that" Please don't include welder,compressor,engine lift or competent mechanic etc. as they would be too big for the bag Regards Ron
  5. Hi All, My TR4 temp at the thermostat housing is about 82c when measured with an infra red thermometer but the head temp is higher at about 112c . Is this normal ? Regards Ron
  6. Hi May I beg a rather ignorant question - I presume that to replace an axle oil seal (ie: the one at brake drum end) a Hub Puller is required?? My '4 has been quietly leaking oil onto the nearside rear brakes during its 5+ year snooze, and before that I seem to recall. Assuming the answer is "yes, obviously", and presuming I can lay my hands on said puller, should I: (A) Do both sides (yes, obviously?) (B) Replace the wheen bearings (yes, obviously?) Thanks. Adrian + TR4
  7. Hi all, after putting off the hood fitting for ages I finally decided to do it today as the weather has warmed up, I have read a lot of items regarding the fitting process and I could forsee the problems and the chance of having a hood sagging or with ripples in it so not a task for the faint of heart ( hence the delay ) I also had a sore thumb the result of a very close encounter with a hammer head ! and so I was dubious about my ability to pull the hood tight to get the correct fit as it looked about 6 inches short So I had another coffee and a think, I decided to reverse the hinge brack
  8. Evening all, My TR4 suffered a slightly bewildering electrical fault on the way home from work this evening. Bear with me, I have some questions at the end... I'd just joined a fairly fast B road when there was a small clunk and then the sound of an electric motor running at high revs. My first thought was that my Kenlow fan had come off the motor! Very odd I thought. There was nowhere to stop so I carried on for a bit. I then glanced at the ammeter and saw that it was pinned at about +30A. Still not able to stop I switched the ignition off and then back on again, which stopped
  9. Hi all, I have decided to paint my TR4 Velasquez cream but as it is a complete colour change I have no parts for the paint supplier to match, they tried on their system but it gave no results Does anybody know where I could get a swatch of this paint or failing that has anybody got some that they could put on a piece of card and send to me, or is there another paint colour that is a near match ? Regards Ron
  10. Hi all, could someone tell me what size screws are used to fix the webbing plates to the hood sticks please. I put them safely away and ( as usual) can't find them. Are they threaded screws or self tappers ? Regards Ron
  11. Hi all, I am preparing the chassis for my next TR4 rebuild, I want to check the rear end where time and gravity tends to make it drop. I have it on a flat surface which I know to be true and I want to measure the height above the surface of the very end of the chassis. has anyone got this measurement ? I have the workshop manual but it is not clear to me. Regards Ron
  12. Hi all, My temp gauge starts off in the cold position and as the engine warms it starts to move, so far so good, but it continues all the way to 120c. The actual temp at the thermostat housing is 85c . It is a new sender unit. Any ideas from the sages Regards Ron
  13. Hi all, I have a question about my gearbox from my TR4 (1962). Does anyone know why my gearbox is harder to switch in hot weather? It's harder to get into gear. Sometimes from three to four a little crack. Not Always. Just that it's not completely synced. In the spring I never had this before. And only if he's been riding hot. The next day everything is back to normal
  14. Hi All, Rebuilding a 64 TR4 (LHD US import) here, and I've had a good look through the forum, but I can't find the specific details I'm after to carry out the LHD to RHD conversions. I've rebuilt the Chassis, Diff Gearbox and Engine, but the body shell is still in storage and I can't get access to it for another few weeks.. I've changed out the steering rack with no particular drama so far, but I'm trying to find out if all or even some of the steering column bracket mounting points are present on the internal face of the firewall to relocate the steering from LHD to RHD, or whether
  15. Just thought I would share some information regarding voltage stabilisers. Both Moss and Rimmers specify the part number 128484 for both TR4 and TR4A. However this stabiliser is for positive earth only vehicles (i.e. original TR4 spec). As such they will not work on the TR4A. Instead you should fit the TR5 unit part number 148876A which is for negative earth cars (TR4A and later). This is because these later units have solid state internals and need to be connected with correct polarity. The original stabilisers had a bimetal strip with a heating wire coiled around it. Voltage was regulate
  16. I need to raise the drivers door on my TR4A by 2-3mm. The manual suggests this can be done by releasing the bolts on the hinge (3 bolts per hinge) Any suggestions on how to do this, particularly how to hold the door in place when I release the bolts.
  17. Hi all, Just hoping to get some advice from some of the more experienced members here as to whether it is possible - or advisable - to have TR4 lower control arms welded up by a competent welder. The arms on both sides have out-of-round holes where the bearings have worn through, and these are very hard to find in Australia, and the ones which pop up on various sites often seem to be in worse condition than mine anyway..so refurbishment by welding, drilling and reaming is probably going to be easier than replacement. Has anyone done it, or had it done, or seen or heard of any ca
  18. I have rubbed the casing flange to bare metal where the parts book indicates the number is, but there is nothing there! Can anyone advise where I will find it? All that is on the casing near the vent is TC2 [in upside down position!] Yours hopefully Willie
  19. My current task has been to fit a new windscreen & glazing rubber - not a massive problem, done a couple before & have the help of number two son who is isolating at home. In anticipation of doing the work I bought a new seal from TR shop as I thought the old one may be a bit hard by now. Tried to fit it to the screen with a squirt of soapy water the same as always and found I had what can best be described as several inches too much to fit! - The profile looks absolutely correct but there isn't a hope in hell it's going on this screen. I cleaned of the old one & ten
  20. Hi, My TR4 has the conventional set up of a wide fan belt and lucas dynamo. The dynamo cannot swing enough towards the engine to allow the belt to become clear of the dynamo pulley so as to remove and refit. Is this how it should be and the procedure then is to remove the dynamo pulley or water pump pulley to allow the removal/fitting of the belt? Thanks Andy
  21. Hi All, I have a boot seal from rimmers but it doesn't let my boot close, It's ok at the top and sides but at the bottom edge I can't get it near the lock (ok without the seal) the seal is an h shape and is quite rigid, thoughts please. Regards Ron
  22. Hi All, I have a body bracket for the telescopic boot stay but don't know the location, could someone post a photo with a tape measure for reference of this item please. Regards Ron
  23. Hello, I am drawing to the end of taking my gearbox out, replacing seals, and refitting. As part of this project I have the car on axle stands and was going to run the car to allow the new oil to circulate the gearbox and overdrive. However, upon starting the car the idle speed just keeps going up and up and something is clearly wrong. I have backed off the fast idle screws completely, ensured that the choke screws are not engaging, and checked the oil in the dash-pots to no avail. As I have done nothing to interfere with the engine or HS6 carburettors recently I am at a loss as w
  24. I have a load of original Girling 16P brake calipers that are about to be refurbished by Bigg Red. I have had one pair finished in black to go behind the black wire wheels on my BRG racecar. my plan is to have these plated (not painted) in either the original type gold or silver. There will be new pistons and seals etc. Basically, they will be fully reconditioned and ready to fit. The point of this post is to ask that if anyone is looking for a pair and wants then done in a particular finish, let me know as I will be taking to be done next week. Price depends on finish. Fin
  25. Hi Forum, I am currently working to replace various seals on my TR4 gearbox in the vain hope of stopping drips. So I do not make an error in copying a previous owners mistake may I ask about replacing the oil seal in the gearbox nose/input shaft. Should the new oil seal sit in the base of the nose housing or does it simply sit flush with the upper surface. I think it might be tapered and so the seal will not seat all the way down but I want to be sure as the new one does not want to go in too far. The workshop manual and internet do not seem to give me any pictures to help.
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