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Cars Owned:

  1. Getting my TR6 into reverse gear needs quite a bit of effort. All other gears slot in easily and the clutch pedal range is fine as is clutch bite. Any ideas?
  2. Does anyone know if there is a t shirt with the side profile of a TR6 in a kind of silhouette with just the top of the wings and door and wheel arches and sills high lighted, or did I just imagine the whole thing . Cheers Gareth
  3. April Issue 297 of TR Action carries an article about poor starting associated with braided injector pipes. I fitted Exact branded pipes February 2016 and of late starting has being getting worse and worse - in fact exactly as described in the article. Has anyone else found this? John
  4. I have a thrumming vibration coming from the rear of my TR6. It starts at about 65 mph but goes quiet on lifting off the throttle. The diff mounts have been replaced but the vibration remains. There does not seem to be any obvious UJ issues. I have heavy duty rear outer drive shafts fitted. Any thoughts as how to isolate the problem ? MARK
  5. Over two years ago before I knew better I bought a supposedly reinforced bridge from Rimmers and fitted it to my chassis. Problem was that the diff cut out was on the wrong side and after been advised by others the spring mounts on inspection were welded across there diameter and had cracked for some people releasing the spring! in fact the springs had already indented metal. So I was left with a choice undo all my seam welding and buy a CTM bridge; good choice or beef up what I had so over the weekend I made some repair sections out of 2.2mm plate and welded them in along with some plat
  6. A Coil Conundrum ! I've had this original Lucas red coil for some time with the thought it might make a good spare for travelling etc. Problem is I'm not completely certain about its suitability for a CR TR6. The label says "for use only with 0.9- 1.25 Ohm ballast" and I'm unsure what ballast a CR TR6 loom comes with - could someone advise please? It also claims to be a "12v High Energy Power Coil" and on a CR TR it will only see 12v for the start-up, then approx 8-9v I think when running. I've measured the primary resistance and it reads 2.3 Ohm, thats pretty much half wa
  7. Evening all Engine stripped and crank out. The only issue is that the key is stuck solid they usually come out reasonably easy. Tried a gentle bit of hammering with a drift no joy but not knowing how much abuse you can administer I thought I'd ask before I get the bigger hammers out. Or is there a better way? Thanks Andy
  8. I've seen a few posts over the past year of folks, like myself, looking for a wiring diagram for CR cars. Usually we get (well intentioned-ly) sent toward the advance autowire link that seems to have diagrams for every TR5/6...except ours. I managed to get pdf of a pdf of a copy of a scan... that I've tidied up into a colour wire diagram to mimic these. I originally formatted at A3 on PPT and converted to pdf which seemed to magically transform it to A4, but it should blow up ok. There are some bits for German market cars I've left out for simplicity (extra rear lights & hazard l
  9. I have had intermittent fuel pump noise for the last 3 years since a new pump and filter was fitted, the usual system fitted at the base of the fuel tank. For reasons unknown sometimes its noisy as hell, sometimes silent. I have read the various posts on here as far as I can, but its not that easy to search, despite what some people say! In summary, I think the advice is that the peculiar set up of each set can produce resonance in some circumstances, and the way to stop it is to change the set up slightly? I have the black rubber hoses already, so I wondered about putting a permanent pre
  10. A question for any of the electrical experts out there ....... My TR6 alternator is simply marked as 14v 45A A115 type (it has a Lucas Electrik sticker with 24 026 on it). The concern is I'm only seeing 13v across the battery terminals at tickover, and only 13.8v when revved harder. If I turn the headlamps on the voltage drops back towards 13v again. I think this is 1v less than it should be, doesn't sound much difference I know but the battery isn't that old and I'm having to separately charge it. The alternator is under 2yrs old btw. Has anyone taken an alternator volta
  11. hi guys. I have found the engine in my tr6 is reving well. But when I take my foot of the pedal, the revs are very slow to return to normal. Anyone have an idea why?
  12. All there have been a couple of threads regarding engine oil filters recently and some cross references have been supplied. Where cross referenced filters have been used and shown to work, then there is no issue, however; I was in the process of putting together a usable cross reference, based on filters that can be relied on. I have added the recently supplied information and took about 15 minutes on the web to extend the spreadsheet based on information supplied by just filter suppliers. My message is; Please do not take any information regarding compatibility at face value In
  13. Hi All, I have a CR Series TR6, that should have a black teardrop shaped gear knob.. which has disappeared long ago.. It has been replaced with an aftermarket wooden one, which has developed a split (not long after fitting).. because it had to be screwed on a long way, so it didn’t pull of when selecting reverse..! so I get the feeling it will happen a lot! I was hoping to find an original style one but maybe in steel, rather than plastic, so it would last.. does anyone know if there is anywhere that makes them? if not.. can anyone with an original one post photos.. and dim
  14. Good day all. Does anyone know how much advance/retard that the small wheel puts on the timing. How many revolutions relates to one degree for example. Thanks
  15. Hi All, I'm looking to re-cover a TR6 H frame and have been told the TR Shop one is about the best. I'm looking for some pictures please and how easy or hard it is to fit, or indeed, any other covers you might feel are well made. Thanks Jim
  16. Matt1969

    UJ bolts

    Hi Are both sets of UJ bolts special in anyway, or will anything in mild steel do? Matt
  17. Hi found a TR6 steering wheel in the garage it is 14.5 inch diameter think it's from a CR model can anyone confirm david
  18. Hi has anybody got any idea, while driving my TR6 2 days ago going round left hand corners we hear a nocking noise we think coming from the rear of the car. It sounded like nock nock nock only when cornering at a bit of speed. I look forward to your feedback. John
  19. I've just bought a TR6 (CP) with triple webers (40s), fast road cam, phoenix sport manifold+exhaust and lumenition optronic performance ignition. I think the compression ratio is around 10:1. It seems to go well (the webers appear to be well tuned) but I am not sure if the timing is optimised for maximum power from the modified engine. I would appreciate your thoughts and recommendations for a distributor timing curve - i.e. the static timing, the maximum timing degrees at high rpm and roughly what rpm this maximum should be reached?
  20. TonyC

    EFI fuel pump

    Hi all, Any of you EFI guys recognise this fuel pump - see pics. This is part of the Webcon Pro5 EFI setup. This pump is starting to become noisy and I want to replace it. However existing pump has no identifiers on it - no brand, model ref, serial number or pressure rating. Webcon pumps although similar in size would require mods to the fuel delivery piping and electrical connections. A direct replacement would be nice! Many thanks, TonyC
  21. Hi all I have any annoying problem with a 123 dizzy and wonder if anyone has any ideas with what to do next. The dizzy is fitted to a Webber’s carbs engine with a fast road cam. It will not start the car. I have set up iaw the instructions and I am using a coil and ht leads supplied by power spark. The engine would not start so I changed the dizzy to an old one on points and behold it started. I put the 123 back in and nothing doing. Out it came again and in went the 123 and nothing! I changed the coil nothing, I changed the leads - nothing. Went back to the original and she started first tur
  22. Evening All. I have knock (possibly better described as a clunk) from the drivetrain when I lift the clutch and the wheels start to move. I can also hear it at low speeds when releasing the clutch after changing gears 2 - 4. Cannot hear it at high speed. The car drives beautifully apart from this. Could this be the problem? The play seems to be only in the nearside diff yoke and I cannot detect any play in either side shaft splines or UJ's which are all new. Can anyone tell me what the problem might be here and what the fix might involve? The diff has not been reb
  23. Hi all Had the frame blasted, powder coated and bought various bits to refurb it. Tightened up some of the rivets but others so worn drilled out and replaced with nylocs and bolts welded in, ground to look like rivets. Come to fitting the window top seals but before I fit them just want to check I have the rubber lip flap the correct way; facing outward? Thanks Andy
  24. I'm looking for a TR6 and have chance to buy an early (69) model. It was originally a European car which has bee repatriated and converted to RHD. Would I be wise to look for a later CP car and does the conversion from LHD lessen the value? I have circa 20K to spend but desirability is more important than cost - would 25K buy a stunner? I have little experience of current day values - I payed £1,000 for a 1971 car in 1974 with less than 14,000 miles on it and sold in in 1979 for more than that. I know now I should have kept her. (ERX13K currently on SORN) How times have changed but how much?
  25. Hi, I have stainless steel braided injector leads on my 1971 TR6, I have noticed some weeping from the top of the No.5 lead connector at the banjo on the MU. Does anyone know where I can get a single replacement lead complete with connectors? Appreciate any advice Thanks
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