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Cars Owned:

  1. It’s great to see that Revival Motorsport Fabrications are remanufacturing the Surrey Backlight Frames for TR’s. It looks like a quality product too - (Photos taken from their Instagram page. I have no connection to this company). Ade
  2. Heres a couple of photos of progress on the Olympic Car. Its called the Olympic Car as it will be ready for the Olympics. Which one was never discussed! Anyway, its at the back of the queue behind ongoing race car rebuilds, maintenance and developments, which is what was supposed to happen. I hope you enjoy looking at these underbonnet pics of the car, I think the standard of work (not mine) is stunning! The rest of the car is just as good. Im hoping it will be ready to be trimmed in the near future. Once completed, it will be used for a while to make sure all is okay. Fund
  3. Hi all, the original headlights have corroded inside so I need to change them, my first thoughts are to buy similar but upgrade the bulb but what about sealed beam ? I also have a new loom but the bulb holders for the ignition light and the flasher light on the dash wont fit into the red and green lenses, do I hack off the new bulb holder and replace with the old ones or is there a better solution ? Thoughts please. Cheers Ron
  4. Hi all, I am rebuilding an early TR4 with the early front suspension setup, when I bought the "project" it did not have the front brake calipers, no problem I thought I have a spare pair of 16Ps . Having refurbished them I attempted to install them today they don't fit ! the dimension from the bolt holes to where they sit above the disc edge is too small ! I assume that the mounting setup is for an earlier B type caliper does this have a bigger dimension ? Frustrating but a good excuse for a calming beer Regards Ron
  5. Hi all, I was tootling along yesterday, top down, cap on (bald head), enjoying the sunshine when I heard an ominous rumble. A few months ago the bolts on the propshaft had come loose and it sounded very similar to that. I put it up on the stands and checked but the bolts were tight. I then put the car in gear and turned the rear wheel and heard a slight noise from the gearbox, it was the same noise throughout all the gears so I assume it is wear on the main shaft ? The car drives well apart from this noise any ideas ? Regards Ron
  6. Hi all, where can I get the o-ring for the P16 caliper on a TR4 ? all the rebuild kits don't seem to supply them. Regards Ron
  7. Hi all, I was replacing the oil seal on the diff and noticed a slight wear in the front bearing, is this difficult to replace ? will I have to take out the diff assembly ? or just live with the possibility of a slight oil leak at a later stage ? my mileage is very low. The tub is off so access is easy. Regards Ron
  8. I had a leak of diff oil onto my brake shoes. Replaced axle tube oil seal (GHS185) but still the same, but I did notice bad scoring on the axle shaft, so looking at previous blog history I have ordered SKF 99131 speedi sleeve. For those not in the know these can repair bad shafts which cost £250 min, so is a bonus, hopefully. So my question is , what is the best sealant to put on the shaft before installing the sleeve, I have Blue Hylomar, Any good ? RobG
  9. We are at an interesting point with the TR2 engine build. Conrods are MaxPeeding fitted with ARP 2000 bolts The supplied spec says use 45 ft lbs torque and ARP thread lube. This suggests it gives 0.005”- 0.006” bolt stretch Have checked torque wrench accuracy and it is fine. Torqued the bolts and we are getting only 0.003”-0.004” stretch. Should the torque be increased with hope of getting the greater stretch or left as recommended? I have read Bob’s actions with these rods and bolts in his excellent rebuild thread and he found a
  10. Last week I was able to purchase a (hopefully) original surrey top. How should you mount the backlight? Remove aluminum frames? Does the back cover come under the backlight? Do all rubbers have to be replaced? The rubber between the backlight and the body is not included. Where can I buy it? Thanks for the info :)!!
  11. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRIUMPH-TR4-RUN-ON-NORMAL-95-UNLEADED-PETROL-INTANK-EASY-TO-FIT-AND-INSTALL-/272109108010?ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:MY:3160 "THE FORMULA POWER FUEL CATALYST This will allow any engine designed to run on leaded petrol to run safely on normal pump unleaded 95 octane fuel. The fuel catalyst has the desired effect of raising the octane lubricating the engine and burning at a slightly lower burn temperature. There is no need to use a liquid additive or to retard the ignition timing or to fit hardened valve seats The fuel catalyst is a tin amalgam and follows very closely to
  12. Can anyone advise on the fitting of a brake servo to a TR4? Best position? Is there anything else to buy that's not in the 'kit', from say Rimmers or Moss?
  13. Hi all, on my new rebuild (mark 2, productivity is up this year ) I scrapped the old early chassis as it was full of rust and I picked up a good late tr4 chassis, I intend to use all the old running gear but I need to change the steering rack which I have obtained. I read about the different lengths and when compared side by side the later one is shorter, can I use the old pin and balls so that it is compatible with the old steering gear ? Regards Ron
  14. Hi all, I am thinking of doing something different with the rear seat, it would seem its only function would be as a hood frame receptacle. As mine didn't come with any trim anyway I thought I would do something practical in this area, I know it wont be authentic but I would like some ideas of what could be done, with photos if anybody has got any. Regards Ron
  15. If anyone is interested, I can put you in touch with the current owner of a set of perfect condition but used 92mm pistons, liners and standard length h beam con rods. The rods have big end size for a steel crank. I think that this is likely to be Ford cosworth dimensions. I have yet to establish a price for these from the owner, but I suspect it’s all going to be a bit of a bargain if it’s your bag. These have been removed from an engine that needs to go to 87mm due to regulations. David
  16. If anyone is interested, I can put you in touch with the current owner of a set of perfect condition but used 92mm pistons, liners and standard length h beam con rods. The rods have big end size for a steel crank. I think that this is likely to be Ford cosworth dimensions. I have yet to establish a price for these from the owner, but I suspect it’s all going to be a bit of a bargain if it’s your bag. These have been removed from an engine that needs to go to 87mm due to regulations. David
  17. Hi all, I need to replace 1 outrigger on my TR4 does anybody know the correct gauge and size and suppliers if possible ? Regards Ron
  18. Hi all, I need to replace 2 pushrod tubes on a TR4 head which have rusted through, are they pressed in or are they just pushed in and flared to seal ?. I am preparing the head for unleaded conversion and so I have complete access. Regards and seasons greetings Ron
  19. Seeking a small diameter hub boss. My TR2 steering column has a splined end that the steering wheel hub fits onto. Do later TR models like TR4, TR5 have the same splined end of the steering column? I need to buy an aftermarket hub boss that fits those splines, in order to fit a restored specialty steering wheel for my Doretti (using same TR2 column). But I don’t want to use the large diameter boss that is available from Moss to fit a Moto-Lita wheel to a sidescreen TR - because I have a smaller wheel center that is more like TR4. Wheel is pictured. So if I buy an aftermarket TR4 hub bo
  20. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1964-TRIUMPH-TR4-RED/282753829474?hash=item41d5710a62:g:pmAAAOSwETJaHvzR Yeah right.............!
  21. Hi All, I would appreciate feedback on whether or not my tacho cable is fed the wrong side of the master cylinders bracket and, whether the cable is too long. A few photos attached to illustrate. If too long, where do I obtain the correct length? Best wishes Willie
  22. Hi all, I'm pondering hood storage in the boot, my thoughts are either place the hood on the spare tyre and the cover it with a suitable piece of plywood on a couple of runners to stop pressure damage or some sort of plywood lid attached to the boot frame. Has anybody done this ? any thoughts, advice or photos would be helpful. Regards Ron
  23. ronhatch

    toolbag

    Hi all, I am putting together an emergency toolkit for my 1962 TR4 . I will include the usual set of spanners, an adjustable spanner, hammer, gaffer tape, screwdrivers, pliers, length of wire, points, condenser,feeler gauges and torch. Is there anything you can think of that I might need, something that you've stood by the roadside thinking "I wish I would have brought that" Please don't include welder,compressor,engine lift or competent mechanic etc. as they would be too big for the bag Regards Ron
  24. Hi All, My TR4 temp at the thermostat housing is about 82c when measured with an infra red thermometer but the head temp is higher at about 112c . Is this normal ? Regards Ron
  25. Hi May I beg a rather ignorant question - I presume that to replace an axle oil seal (ie: the one at brake drum end) a Hub Puller is required?? My '4 has been quietly leaking oil onto the nearside rear brakes during its 5+ year snooze, and before that I seem to recall. Assuming the answer is "yes, obviously", and presuming I can lay my hands on said puller, should I: (A) Do both sides (yes, obviously?) (B) Replace the wheen bearings (yes, obviously?) Thanks. Adrian + TR4
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