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Found 265 results

  1. Hi All, Some months ago I had an issue with my car spluttering and dying - see link (and a lot of other member posts recently). I thought that I had addressed this by flushing the fuel tank, coating it against ethanol and replacing any rubber with ethanol resistant hoses. All great for a couple of months until this weekend when the car suddenly dies without warning on a narrow section of a busy road on a hill - embarrassment factor high. I eventually get a push into a close and find that there is no fuel at all in the SUs although there is fuel in the glass bowl. Hand priming the pump does nothing to push fuel even when I disconnect the pipe to the SUs, so I look to the innards of the pump. I cannot check the fuel supply at the time because the car is still on a slope and gravity is against me. Nothing obviously wrong - valves work and diaphragm seems perfect. Stuck so seek AA input thinking I might need a new pump - more emarrassment. AA lift car to allow for gravity feed and blow back into fuel tank to check line blockage; and all is well and flowing. He also suspects the pump innards but cannot find anything at fault so we change the diaphragm anyway (yes I had a spare one). All works fine and the 30 mins drive home is OK. My question is - can I now have confidence in the car or was it coincidence that the pump worked again when the fuel was disturbed in the tank? Is it likely that the diaphragm was at fault even though there were no rips,tears, holes etc? Many thanks for your thoughts Mark
  2. Hi Guys, As the Tr's body is almost reaching the paint face I turned my attention to the fuel tank. It was covered in a black thick paint-fibre something; As soon as I started to remove that black stuff I discovered the first of many holes............yes, fuel tank is garbage! My goal was( and still is ) to keep the costs as low as possible, so far it worked out pretty good, but that new fuel tank is around 500$, so I bought a nice spitfire fuel tank for 20$ .....the filler neck seems to be at the same spot at the top in the center and so is the hole in the bottom were the fuel line starts, it is just a liitle bit smaller and not as high as a 3A tank.As it sits behind he back seat and in the boot nobody will see it anyway. Has anyone out there attempted this fuel tank swap? Any other suggestions?? Thanks, Yves
  3. Hi, Looking for some help here please, My PI TR6 which was always smelly at tick over was noticeably worse on a 50 mile run last Sunday. Today I had an opportunity to remove the plugs which were sooted up and I have changed. Valve clearances checked and a couple tweaked back to 10 thou but they weren't far out. Fuel pressure is a steady 102 psi. But, with a vacuum gauge fitted the needle is fluctuating between 8 and 12 Inches at a warm idle which would appear wrong. I'm assuming I have a vacuum leak and hope it's throttle body related rather than sticking valves but would like your advice and observations please. I have attached links to a short video to try and illustrate the problem. Thanks Jim https://youtu.be/LDJ2x_OfTlw https://youtu.be/TRCQjP8r0MU
  4. Hi Chaps, installed one of Neil Ferguson's reconned metering units before going to the spa classic. Anyhow, managed to find some time to test the unit using my Air:Fuel ratio probe. https://www.amazon.co.uk/clouddrive/share/SmHeqdKeLCBj8qTaLMcYgwE8F6uQdmo4D5rw3gkgpTw?v=grid&ref_=cd_ph_share_link_copy The run was a full throttle run from standstill in first then second gear. Am pretty happy.. The mixture is around 14:1 during acceleration (which is good). idle mixture (at the begining of the run) is just over 14. seems to pull pretty well to 5000 rpm, although I had a slight stumble at the higher end, but solved this by advancing the ignition a smidge.. Cheers Tim
  5. Hi All. Greetings from sunny Ireland, just before we came away I'd changed the metering unit I now appear to have a problem with it. Car starts fine and runs great from a cold start but once you stop for 10 mins or so will then only fire on 5, no 3 is not then firing for a minuet or so then cuts in but after there seems to be a slight hesitation, I'm wondering if something is sticking n the unit after a stop when it's up to temp. Any ideas ? Mark Here is a taste of what has been going on.....
  6. Ladies & gentlemen of the forum I have a used, long bodied PRV assembly going begging, I have had a new diphragm type PRV fitted to my '6'. This long bodied PRV is etched on 2 of the 6 faces as follows; - 730943 - 5073 The reason for the change was that this PRV was allowing the pump to run at 145psi and would not come down below that figure. Having got the car running better than she ever has, out of interest, I decided to take a look at this old PRV. On taking it apart, I found that at some point, 2 extraneous washers had been put under the spring, increasing the load rating of the assembly. These I have removed. I will, I hope, be cleaning and lightly oiling the bits over the weekend I have attached a photo of the components, as assembled, less the added washers If you are interested, let me know
  7. Hi there, possibly a silly question but it is linked to the action I took as a result of comments made about a possible fuel starvation issue. I drained the fuel tank and found some large flat pieces (10p size) of loose solder (see solder debate) plush some rubber bits, and then used slosh tank sealant (umm fun). Also replaced fuel lines to be ethanol resistant and changed the post-pump in-line fuel filter. All works fine although I have not yet made a longer trip, but I did notice that the fuel level in my fuel filter drops right down when she runs at normal operating temp – ¾ full when cool but a dribble when hot. This has not yet affected the running and the filter fills back up as the engine cools back down. Is this normal? Will the carbs pull through what they need? I wonder because I might need to replace the fuel pump/diaphragm if not usual. There might be some physics explanation but I had imagined it staying at teh same level - more demand but also more pumping equaling out. Many thanks.
  8. Hi Everyone. Hope all is well in TR land, I've had a few Fuel related issues lately and was wondering if anyone has a Fuel pressure gauge in the cab. I realise 100+psi in the cab is a bad idea but there are electronic ones available. Cheers Mark
  9. Hi All. I need a new Bosch kit, just called Prestige and there will be a Three week wait as he is away. I'm going to Ireland in Two weeks so can't wait, any other ideas ? I know the usual suspects do them but was told that all there kits are filter then pump and it's better to go pump filter. Cheers Mark
  10. I have an oil leak from the rear of the metering unit drive shaft as in the photo. I've had a look in the parts catalogue and the workshop manual but can't see what seal has failed to create the leak, the metering unit pedestal seems to be omitted from all the manuals I have any body know what seals I need to replace.
  11. marki

    PRV jointing

    Morning. I have a strong smell off fuel in the Boot ever since I changed the fuel filter, I've checked the filter a dozen times tried talc but all to no avail. I'm now wondering if I've disturbed the PRV area and joints. The question is how is the PRV jointed to the T piece ? Is it sealant or alloy washers ? I'm going to take the lot out Tank and all and redo everything. Cheers Mark
  12. Hi All. I'm looking at changing my fuel pipe from the Bosch pump to the PRV. The one that's fitted looks like it's a Banjo type fitting but all the ones I've looked at appear to have union on each end. Does the another part unscrew from the pump to allow fitting of the pipe ? I can't see very well with the pump fitted. Cheers Mark
  13. Hi all, Had a nice drive this weekend but after an hour the car started to hesitate and loose power. Pull over and take a look but nothing obvious so carry on for another half an hour and then same happens again. Found some crud in the fuel pump bowl so cleaned that out and set off again. Another half an hour and stuck in traffic and the car almost dies and sounds like she is on a couple of cylinders - limp into a car park and she dies completely. Remembering some similar issues on the forum I checked the distributor, coil, leads and so-forth and all seemed OK. So started to check the fuel side. There was no fuel past the fuel pump and even hand priming was a struggle - but she did fire up and run for a few seconds after priming. I found that fuel was pushing along the pipe to the fuel pump bowl so I suspected the pump diaphragm - but taking the pump apart shows that it is OK. Reassemble and all is well. Drive back home the next day and she is flying for a good hour and a half until we are held up in traffic again and the problems start all over and I am lucky to find a parking slot before she dies again. Same issue - no fuel past the pump not even with hand priming. Take it all apart and blow out pump valves and all is well again. I have done longer drives before and in hotter weather with no issues at all so I cannot see that there is any problem with the fuel line around the engine or fuel vaporisation. My query (at last) - could this have been related to the seating of the fuel pump valves or even some fine crud in the valves or is this just coincidence. Perhaps it is just the time that allows for some cooling? Perhaps I should still suspect the fuel tank even though fuel comes out of the pipe when disconnected? Grateful for your thoughts.
  14. Ladies & gentlemen of the forum. A conundrum which, at first, appeared simple, but . . . . this is 1970's British motor engineering. I removed and replaced the spark plugs; a run of the mill, 10 minute job, I thought! Having done the job, I then; Replaced the rotor & dizzy cap Checked each HT lead to ensure they are all connected and tight Checked LT wiring at dizzy and coil Cleared tools from engine bay and did a final, visual check Turned the ignition key . . . . no fuel pump! What did I touch? Checked the wiring again, all seems OK Looked at the circuit diagram. Wipers and fuel pump appear to be on the same fuse. Ah ha, I thought, gotcha, the wipers are not working either, so, it must be the fuse. But, fitting 4 brand new, fuses fresh from the packaging, made no difference. (Lucas 4 fuse box) Another look at the circuit diagram shows a voltage stabiliser in this circuit. My question; could a duff VS be the problem, or is there a more devious gremlin, lurking in the electrics? If it is the VS, where will I find it and what will it look like? We plan a run out this weekend and would dearly like to be able to drive the old girl, if at all possible.
  15. Evening All. Had an enjoyable run today, until I got down to 1/4 tank then the odd cough pump wasn't happy then a couple of miles later complete cut out for a few seconds. Am I right in thinking it can't be PRV or filter and should be looking in the tank, as it runs great until the tank gets lower. Or should I be looking at the pump, it's a Bosch fitted in the boot but wasn't hot when I stopped. Mark
  16. Hi Again. More info wanted I'm afraid. I have a problem with fuel when I get down to about 1/4 of a tank and reading up on the problem looks like it could be a blocked pre filter. While looking into this I've noticed my PRV is different to the one now sold. Mine is as the image here but the new ones seem much smaller, can anyone educate me please. Thanks Mark and now the photo won't upload
  17. Morning All. I've just fitted this extra tank to stop the pump whining when the fuel level gets a bit lower, I had this happen on the New Forrest run but still only managed to get 8 gallons in. Kevin Hart was the guy who came up with the idea and had them made, it fitted perfectly with no problems at all. I've yet to run the tank down but he swears it works and it does make sense. If anyone is suffering or has suffered from the pump moaning then it looks like there is a solution and now I have an 11 gallon tank not 8. Cheers Mark
  18. marki

    FUEL HOSES

    Hello Formites. I'm going to fit a alloy extra fuel tank from Kev Hart to stop whining pump when the tank starts to get emptyish while I'm there I wish to fit Braided hoses to and from the Bocsh pump to stop the smell of fuel in the boot. I will also need extra hoses to and from the extra tank, can somebody point me in the right direction to buy these hoses as I understand it's only certain hoses that will not smell. I think this was covered a couple of years ago by Andrew Smith but don't seem to be able to find it. Many thanks Mark This is the set up from Kev.
  19. Just bought a new throttle cable for my TR6 from Rimmer bros http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-160308 I have fitted it today but it does not look right, at the PI end there are two adjustable ferrules both with a pair of lock nuts on? I have the Prestige underslung throttle which requires me to fit the cable as the shorter version. this leaves the 2nd threaded ferrule dangling between the bracket and the end clip of the cable. I am certain this prevents me from using full throttle Is this correct??? I cannot see any way of removing the 2nd ferrule - should it stay or go kc
  20. Afternoon All. We had a great day on Sunday at The New Forest Run, slightly marred by nearly running out of Fuel at the Castle. We did 160 miles there and inc the Run, ended up at 19.5 MPG Friends 6 seemed to use much less although he hasn't bothered to work it out. Am I worrying over nothing or should I investigate further ie compression and leak tests ? All else is fine points plugs and sucking the MU. I have just changed to Multi point plugs could this have anything to do with it ? Cheers Mark.
  21. Hi All, I want to fit an inline fuel filter between the tank and the Bosch Fuel pump. The rubber pipe is 1/4 internal diameter (1/2 external). Can anybody recommend a good one and where it would be available. Many Thanks Dave
  22. OK so been tuning the TR after the chassis change and engine refresh.. One of my problems is a high idle (1200-1400 rpm). Before the refresh the idle was more like 900 rpm but it was clear that there were some airleaks as the idle airbleed was pretty much closed to get 900rpm So have been checking out the throttle bodies.. First thing I have noticed is that the linkages (CP car) are V loose and look worn. Have also noticed that the butterflies are only opening about 75% (This is even with the pedal stop adjusted slack). I take it that the two things are linked. The wear in the linkages is also making it challenging to adjust the throttles... I am guessing that some of those ball joint linkages from Moss are the cure..? I have also looked at the flow through the throttles and there does seem to be some signs of twisted throttle shafts (e.g. different flows through throats in the same throttle body..). Has anyone had any success in twisting the shafts to correct? I did this once on some webber DCOEs and it seemed to work. I know people will probably say that I should just get them reconned but am (in theory) planning on fitting a Moss supercharger kit when they come back into production so just need this as a temporary fix until then.. thanks for any help Cheers Tim
  23. Well I fix one fault and another one comes along.... Driving home the car lost power. She went slower and slower, the revs dropped and I when I got to a hill, she conked out. Tried to restart the car, she fired but on stayed on tick over. Foot on accelerator , no increase in revs. I Thought the accelerator cable broke. Not the case. Bonnet up, 2 stags ,aTR4 and aTR6 drove past and waved.....didn't stop to help though !!!! Accelerator pedal very sloppy. Does not feel right at all. No resistance. Spring in place though. Managed to get the car home, basically on tick over speed. Overtaken by cyclists !! Today, adjusted cable, but nothing seems amiss. Car started, foot on pedal, she will not go above 2000rpm. She ran perfectly yesterday until I hit the big hills. Loss of power and revs was quite sudden. To the knowledgeable sages of this forum, what's gone wrong and if I need new bits ie a cable, which one do I get ?? Credit card at the ready and Conrad on standby !!!! Steve
  24. Hi All, I've just got my Historic Status so got the car out on the road this last weekend.. I put brand new sparks in before starting this year, the MU was brand new last year and setup by Malcolm Jones, engine is completely restored professionally, all fuel lines (inc tank) are brand new last year. The problem is, I'm replacing the sparks every couple of months (I know I could clean them but they're not expensive and it's easier to put in new ones) .. they are getting heavily sooted up to the point where I can't get the engine to fire, the car pulls well to about 4.5k revs then seems to top out in each gear, when I floor it there is a momentary loss of power before it takes off, there is a popping coming from unburnt fuel in the exhaust on lift off, umm.. what else.. I've checked the enrichment lever returns completely to its off position and the car runs fairly well with no choke after a couple of mins, it's taking a lot of cranking to start each time though, all the hoses and brake servo etc are brand new, injectors are brand new replacements for the dodgy leaking ones I got on eBay originally (new ones are from Moss). Does any of this sound like multiple symptoms of a common problem I could look for or would it be best to just get the car to TRBitz and be done with looking? Many thanks, Chris
  25. All Good morning The MOT went OK, but, there is a problem with high levels of hydrocarbons; 8079ppm, when the limit is 1200ppm What can I do to bring this under control? Is it a case of; - car to Manvers, or - MU to Neil or is there an easy fix, of which, I am unaware? My friendly, helpful, local garage is good and Pete cut his teeth on 6 cylinder cars in the 70's and 80's, but, they do not have the background capability to adjust the MU, if that is what is needed Thanks, as always
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