Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'fuel'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • TR Register Information
    • JOIN THE TR REGISTER
    • Find your local TR Register group
    • TR Register News
    • Events
    • TR Register Insurance
    • = CORONAVIRUS UPDATES =
  • Parts and Cars
    • Classifieds
    • For Sale, Swap or Wanted, maximum value £250
  • TR Register's TR Chat
    • TRs Out and About
    • General TR Technical
    • TR2/3/3A/3B Forum
    • TR4/4A Forum
    • TR5/250 Forum
    • TR6 Forum
    • TR7/8 Forum
    • Italia, Swallow Doretti, Peerless & Warwick
    • TR Motorsport
    • TRs Re-United
    • Social Scene
  • Help Topics
    • Forum Help / Rules
  • Useful Links
    • Contact the office
    • Facebook
    • Twitter
    • Members' websites

Calendars

  • Forthcoming Events
  • Community Calendar

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


AIM


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Location


Cars Owned:

Found 265 results

  1. Hi All I took apart my fuel pump today, from a 1966 TR4A and I have bought a kit to refurbish it. When I look at the pictures in the TR4/4A workshop manuel, it shows quite a few bits that I don't have, for example, I don't have a valve retaining plate, or a place to even screw in the screws. I also don't have the seals at the bottom of the pump. I just wanted to make sure this was normal, or have I aquired a funny fuel pump? Thanks Adam
  2. Well hopefully the title got your attention! Whilst staring in wonderment at the fuel lines installed by the PO (which I am planning to reroute to avoid vaporisation) I noticed this nipple on the rear carburettor. What should it be connected to? Should it even be there!? Might it account for the weaker mixture on 3&4?
  3. Hello I am new to the forum having recently bought as TR3B. Since I got the car, I suspected the engine was running on a rather rich mixture as the car would start from cold without choke. So when I got a chance I pulled the plugs and found them to be black and soothy. I did not have time to do a full tune of the carbs, so I just gave the adjusting nuts both about half a turn to make the mixture leaner. Since then I have noticed two differences: 1. I need the choke for the first couple of minutes of driving (even though ambient temperatures here are 25-30 C here right now) and the engine is prone to stalling in the first 10 minutes of driving. 2. Engine temperature during driving has gone up significantly. Before it used to be at 185F, unless in stationary traffic. Now during driving it goes up to the next mark on the dial (half way between 185 and 230F). This causes the electric fan to kick in and I am assuming that then keeps it stable. I am rather surprised by the large impact on the engine temp the (small) adjustment in mixture has made. I will spend some more time tuning the carbs better today, however I was surprised by the large effect. Anybody have any experience, or thoughts to share? Thanks Ewald
  4. willos

    Hens teeth

    Just strolling around my local car boot I came across 2 brand new B Leyland sealed in original boxes fuel injectors. I had to unseal one box to check before I bought these. Part number is 1x 157913 s350 G8 . Wrapped in grease paper and red cover on top. The chap had them in him 2.5 PI glovebox and never used them. I want to offer them on the register first as I don't want them to go to trade I'm open to offers before they are on the bay. No I didn't pay him £1 for them so don't be cheeky 26 years I had to sell my car WDN 772J I know she's still out there and have heard and seen her once Any clue where she is ?
  5. My recently restored TR6 has started to run roughly. the car is coughing and spluttering and losing power. Any ideas what I should be looking at? It has electronic ignition new HT leads and spark plugs.
  6. Does any one have a supplier part no. For the injector hose fittings? I want to make some up myself. The usual suppliers are NCA but there must be a commercial supplier somewhere? The 'nylon' hose I see avail on eBay......in various colours! I know I can get a brand new set of leads (pricey!) so someone somewhere must stock them! The nearest pt.no for the elbow at the injector end for is I think example HEFP97-4 Is this correct? I would also need no.s for the banjo fittings and the straight couplings Dave
  7. Car starts and runs/idles fine, performs well initially, but if I switch off for 10 minutes or so when restarted it seems to run on five. It will seem to clear if I thrash it but then plays up at low RPM. So back home a very weak pulse from certainly one of the injectors, however they are all new, so with the engine running I disconnect the number 1 hose from the MU result... practically nothing coming out of the adaptor! I would have thought that it would be a big healthy spurt with each revolution? Thoughts gents Dave
  8. Good evening, I have just spent a rather frustrating few hours this afternoon trying to set the butterflies on my 1973 CR series TR6. First a little background information; the car is fitted with the 'prestige' throttle linkage kit together with refurbished inlet manifolds (3,000 miles ago) and prior to me 'meddling' was running OK with the exception of a little hesitency at low revs. I took previous advice on the forum that the hesitancy could be as a result of the butterflies not being set correctly. To help me with the task I purchased a Dellorto carburretor balancing tool although in reality I think this may have confused me further. What sort of readings should I be looking to achieve from the balancing tool and at what point should I be looking too take readings? I have been working at idle although I suspect that providing the readings are roughly equal across each manifold this will make little difference. Happy to be corrected if I'm wrong here of course. Firstly I have set each pair of butterflies to just 'grab' a cigarette paper with the throttle closed following previous advice on the forum. When I started the car (with the air-box removed) I was surprised that it fired happily with no choke and had a very high ticker even with the air-bleed valve fully closed. I assume this was because there was air flowing into the inlet manifolds with the throttle closed as I had set them partially open albeit only 2 thou (thickness of paper). Closing the air-bleed valve did not stall the engine so clearly this was not the correct set-up. I tried setting the butterflies firmly closed with no throttle but the car drove terribly and I had to have the air-bleed valve virtually fully open to achieve a reasonable tick over. I would appreciate some simple step by step instructions to set and balance the butterflies as clearly this makes a significant difference as to how the car drives especially at low revs (so i'm told). In hindsight I wish I had left things alone as I have now rendered the car un-driveable which is a shame. Having said that it would be really great to be able to set the car up properly and get it running properly once again. Thanks for reading my post and as always all suggestions and/or ideas are greatly appreciated. Best Regards, Peter
  9. Sorry my first post is a request for advice - I will at least try and add what I have found so far about the problem, and tried to resolve it. Really enjoying using my first TR6 now it's warmer and dryer - commute, kids' taxi, any excuse... It's a well maintained 1971 CP TR6, with no recent mechanical changes. Two weeks ago I noticed the idle speed increased to around 1400-1500 RPM on the return leg of a 40 mile round trip. It did the same at the weekend. Last night and today it was up to 2-2500 RPM at idle. Apart from that it's fine, pulls well, revs well, plenty of power, no problem. Consensus is from my own logic and various bits of internet wisdom, it may be mechanical, but it is probably an air leak on the intake system, as you can't get an engine revving like that without a fair amount of air getting in somehow. So... Mechanically looks fine to me - the choke(cold start) cables both return back to where they should be. So does the throttle cable, with just a little slack. The throttle linkages/bar that moves the butterflies settles back nicely on its adjusting screws. Visually the butterflies all look to be closing OK. Air leaks - before starting the car I pulled off the hose (engine end) that goes to the fuel metering unit. A good suck on this then put my tongue on the end of the pipe - not the nicest taste but seems to hold the vacuum ok by sticking to my tongue for a good few seconds. Then, with the engine warmed for 1 mile and running (2500 revs idle!) pulled off the brake servo hose and blocked the inlet - revs drop to about 1500. Screw in the air bleed valve at the other end and revs drop a little - then block off the air inlet for the bleed valve, which makes no difference. Oddly, now putting the brake servo hose back on instead of blocking the inlet with my thumb, we are back to 1500 rpm. So in summary, with closed throttle & choke, blocking both inlets completely (which should stall the car in theory), we are still at 1500 rpm. What with kids and a day job, and being a TR6 novice I don't really have time to embark on a voyage of discovery to get to the bottom of it and I am worried that if I don't sort it very quickly I'll miss the Summer. So any ideas please - 1/ what else could I easily check? 2/ any recommendations for a friendly local expert (Windsor, or Reading, Berks) who can help sort it out in time for Summer? I can see a few people have had the problem over the years so I'll write it up here once it is sorted out. Thank you! Patrick.
  10. I have tried to start my TR6 after 18 months in storage. Following a process of elimination I have settled on the metering unit as the culprit? Fuel reaches the m. unit from the tank and the engine runs for a few seconds with 'Easy Start' sprayed into the air intake. I have also added fresh petrol so as to dilute the 'old' fuel. The metering unit was fitted new about 2 years ago and was running fine at that time. Any advise anyone can give as to how to tackle the m. unit assuming that is the problem would be greatly appreciated. David.
  11. Guys. Advice please. Having changed my rocker top gasket, I thought it was a good opportunity to fit the set of Goodridge braided injector pipes I'd bought at the last NEC Classic show. The car runs fine, has a Bosch Fuel Pump and I'be just covered 520 miles between Gosport and Glasgow over 2 days, taking in the Peak and Lake districts. All good apart from the oil leak from the old rocker gasket. Your thoughts appreciated on the following: 1. Not all of my existing injectors will screw into the new elbow nuts fitted on the braided hoses - and I'm not willing to force them with spanners. Three of the existing injector threads will screw the entire way home into their respective elbow nuts using heavy finger strength only but 3 will only turn about 10-12 mm along the thread before jamming solid as if the thread is crossed or damaged. Swapping the injectors around makes no difference, as the ones that jam do it in all of the new nuts. I have noticed that all 6 injectors have different numbers and wondered if this was a contributory factor. The 3 that screw in okay are numbered: 15 78 73125E 6 73 73125B 32 74 73125D The 3 that just jam solid are numbered: 6 72 73125A (x2) 18 73 73125D Incidentally the original elbow nuts, which all look the same and are connected to ageing nylon pipes, screw back onto the injector threads just fine. Any thoughts on why not all old injectors screw freely into the new elbow nuts? Is it that the injectors must have crossed threads and I'm just failing to spot it? Also, do the different numbers on the old injectors mean anything significant? 2. As for the braided hoses, I have read the adverse comments about them but intent to press ahead and try them out anyway. I can see that connecting them at the MU end might be a bit of a challenge and am considering taking the MU off for better access. Is this a straight forward job? And, if I take it off, is it a simple case of just refitting it or will it need to be bled or calibrated or purged or something? 3. If I were to buy new injectors, adaptors and O'rings (for adaptors and banjos), are there any alternatives (cheaper but just as reliable) to Rimmers? Thanks in advance guys. David
  12. Before I start fiddling with my 6 , I thought I'd run this by you to see if I'm making something out of nothing !! Took the car out for a run and needed to fill up with petrol. I normally fill up every time the gauge needle is just below the half way mark. Usual fuel is Shell v nitro. I found a Morrison petrol station and my gauge was just above empty. Drove off, parked up. No problem Started her up to g home, and suddenly ...cough, splutters and hesitant to go. Revved her up and drove home. These symptoms happened once. Any ideas , was it just a glitch and carry on regardless ? Steve
  13. Those who have read my post on 'Old Petrol' will know I have been fiddling with the tuning of my car, (TR3a). It has twin HS6 carbs on a TR4a manifold I started by setting both the carb jets .035" down, started the engine and got it thoroughly warmed up by taking it for a run of about 5 miles. When I checked the plugs, the front ones were about right, maybe a shade rich; the back ones were very black and sooty. Then using first a pair of colourtunes and then the little button on the side I adjusted the mixture until both carbs were properly adjusted and took the car for another run to confirm this. The result was that both front an rear plugs are now a sandy colour and the engine runs very sweetly - albeit it fluffs a little at low revs, but the jet on the rear carb is only about .015" down from the bridge whereas the front one is .032" down. So my question is - Is this variation in the jet heights normal or does this indicate that something else is amiss with the carbs? Rgds Ian
  14. Hi All. Next year I'm probably going to have my car converted to EFI. Having a look around for the best options, I'm no whiz with electronics but handy with a spanner so was wondering if there are kits available to buy and so called bolt on to then have mapped on a rolling road ? I'm hoping to then sell my PI gear so would look at changing the throttle bodies rather than altering them to fit. Cheers Mark.
  15. Ladies and Gents Is the air valve assembly screwed or pressed into the front inlet manifold? I would like to rotate the valve assembly in the manifold clockwise by about 30° If screwed, then, if I can get it out I can sort it out, but, if it is pressed in, I am not sure I have the kit to do it. As always, many thanks
  16. My 6 has been changed from PI to SU carbs at some point in its 43 year life. Tell me please how i tell which SU carbs I have? I believe that they didn't put identification marks on them. Would a photo or three help? Regards. GerryC
  17. Having installed the refurbished carbs (HSU6), I re-attached the existing choke cable. As before refurb, the choke knob only pulls to two very short stops, is very stiff and a definite stop; whereas when not attached to the carbs I can see 4 or 5 stop notches when pulling it out. I have read of more than two choke positions. On mine the second position is about half way on the cam - should it go beyond this point - or are there simply two choke settings Also it is not now going back to the start position when pushed back in, so I suspect a kink and / or frayed inner cable catching on the reinforcement. I am therefore going to get a new choke cable (not cheap !), when installing, will there be just two stops, or should I be looking for more. Thanks
  18. Anyone interested in ganging up for this? There's for close to 10K £ at retail price http://www.ebay.com/itm/triumph-tr-4-bulk-parts-/172035202964?hash=item280e18df94:g:64EAAOSw14xWJocA&vxp=mtr Edit: Had a phone call with the seller to inquire about specific parts i.e. grille and hardtop. He just sent me the pics below he had at hand....Enough for me to clic the "buy" button. Now the boring logisitic will start, everything must be out by the end of February. Will get and post more pictures of the treasure chest later on More pics....
  19. The TR5 and earlier TR6's had a fuel tank with no baffle around the outlet port. As a result of this these cars tend to lose fuel delivery when going around a left hand turn with less than 20-30% fuel level. With the original Lucas pump and plumbing this was overcome to some extent by the return fuel from the PRV feeding directly back into the fuel filter and thence back to the pump. However, when any of these cars are modified with a Bosch / Sytec pump system the original inlet filter is usually discarded as it restricts fuel flow through the pump to an unacceptable extent. Unfortunately this makes the loss of fuel delivery much more apparent. The later TR6s had a redesigned fuel tank with a baffle around the fuel outlet port. I need to add this "feature" to my TR5. Yes, I could buy a new tank which is expensive enough to begin with but, by the time I get it to New Zealand, the freight and other costs adds about another £100 to the cost and it has been suggested that maybe I could modify the existing tank to resolve the problem. Has anyone done this? Any major problems? Does anyone have any sketches, drawings, photographs, suggestions etc about how best to do this? Thanks Robert Johnston Auckland, New Zealand
  20. Discussion continues re the effects of ethanol in fuel. The current issue (Issue 2 2016) of the FBHVC magazine contains notice that Belgium is shortly to increase the amount of ethanol in fuel to 10%. Although not many UK members will pass through Belgium and fill up, the article also sets out the effects of ethanol and recommends additives that are said to counter its corrosive effects, which are present even at 5% Members Pages/Newsletter archive Issue 2, 2016, http://fbhvc.co.uk/members-pages/newsletter-archive/ Note the recommendations for materials that are and are not recommended for use with fuels containing ethanol There is more information from the FBHVC Home page under "Legislation and Fuels/Fuel information" Phil
  21. Just for something to do I'm going to fit a fuel pump relay in the boot. Fortunately when I trimmed the car I'd run some sleeving in and put a draw wire in. The question is though where do I pick up the live feed from? The positive lead has all the spare spade terminals used. So that leaves the back of the starter motor but to me that seems a bit untidy. Is there a positive lead available with more (large size) spade terminals fitted or will I have to go for one of those fancy battery terminals with the extra connections?
  22. Today's 'Battle of Bromley' is man v (reinserting refurbished) petrol tank - especially that stiff new rubber filler neck. One Q, when re-attaching the fuel outlet screw-in thingamy to the bottom of the tank (which was a pain to unfasten), should I be applying anything like little ptfe tape or polymer to make sure it seals ? TVM
  23. The TR5 and earlier TR6's had a fuel tank with no baffle around the outlet port. As a result of this these cars tend to lose fuel delivery when going around a left hand turn with less than 20-30% fuel level. With the original Lucas pump and plumbing this was overcome to some extent by the return fuel from the PRV feeding directly back into the fuel filter and thence back to the pump. However, when any of these cars are modified with a Bosch / Sytec pump system the original inlet filter is usually discarded as it restricts fuel flow through the pump to an unacceptable extent. Unfortunately this makes the loss of fuel delivery much more apparent. The later TR6s had a redesigned fuel tank with a baffle around the fuel outlet port. I need to add this "feature" to my TR5. Yes, I could buy a new tank which is expensive enough to begin with but, by the time I get it to New Zealand, the freight and other costs adds about another £100 to the cost and it has been suggested that maybe I could modify the existing tank to resolve the problem. Has anyone done this? Any major problems? Does anyone have any sketches, drawings, photographs, suggestions etc about how best to do this? Thanks Robert Johnston Auckland, New Zealand
  24. All I have is a green wire from the sender to the loom, neither the sender nor the tank are earthed. Does the sender rely on the fuel gauge earth ? or on re-assmebly should I be attaching an earth from the sender lid and/or tank to body ? TVM
  25. Has anyone skipped the butterflies on a PI and substituted them with a single butterfly in front of the air plenum? I guess those who are fiddling with EFI and supercharging has, but has anyone done it without those additions? If so, what donor car/s and what are the pros and cons? I guess you need a bit of DIY mechanics to fix the choke but as I see it there is a lot to gain not needing the throttle linkage and the pain in balancing the butterflies.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.