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  1. I would like to thank everyone who helped with this problem. Its fixed, at least for now but unfortunately I cant explain what fixed it as I took apart and cleaned most of the critical parts (excluding the MU) but including blowing through the pipework with compressed air. Whatever it was has now gone. I suspect crud in the pipework as suggested by Steve as it favours the symptoms as everything else looked fine. The one gain in this short saga, the pump has never sounded so quiet. Once again - thanks all.
  2. Mike, I think I follow your method and will give it a try as soon as I can. Kev, as per your suggestion I have just pulled the filter out of the pump. Its not perfect by any means. 3 of the 4 bracing strips (for want of a better description) are concave and I guess could be collapsing as the pump sucks fuel. However this doesn't follow the logic of the fuel flow because the fuel flows into the filter and out through the mesh and therefore the filter would expand and not collapse. But who knows with fluid dynamics. That said it cured your problem so its still worth swapping out. The one in the PRV is the same so I may just to test it while I find a replacement. I guess they are not available off the shelf. Ross
  3. Thanks Kev, the filter inside the PRV looks ok and is clean but your right its worth a thorough check, or are you referring to the mesh filter inside the pump intake ? Also, did your pump hunt (dramatically vary its pitch) with the engine running but was stable when the engine wasn't running?
  4. Mike, thanks for the info on the PRV and associated leakage. It is possible there is a partial blockage in the gravity fed line and or the filter, however, I ran the pump dumping the fuel output into a container and it flowed really well. Because it flowed freely it diverted my attention away from this possibility. But as you and Steve have both mentioned this I will check and measure the flow rate properly. In the meantime, how did you set the PRV with air - did you use a compressor setting the compressor gauge to the 100 - 110 psi. I assume it works the same as setting an injector, I will give this a try too. Ross
  5. Hi Mike, do you know if its normal to get some fuel leakage past the adjuster screw when the PRV is not pressurised. The small valve inside the PRV seams to be fine. I assume the leakage occurs between the valve and the valve body and the distance piece. Also, do you know if a poor PRV or poor setting will cause the hunting I'm experiencing ? Ross
  6. I will keep it in mind Many Thanks
  7. Hi Steve, I checked the earth and wiring in general and all ok. I did wonder about the filter but the pump works Ok when the engine isn't running. I guess the same would apply to something loose in the tank. The more I think about it its got to be associated somehow with the PRV. Or am I being hopeful. Ross
  8. All, I know this topic has been done to death but I cant find any reference on the forum to my particular symptoms and associated problem with the lucas fuel pump on my TR6 1973 CR 1. Ignition on engine off the fuel pump runs perfectly albeit with the usual whine and will continue to run perfectly until switched off 2. Ignition on engine running – the pump runs perfectly for about a minute and then starts to hunt. The engine continues to run (tick over) with the pump continually hunting. Soon after shutting down the engine and restarting the pump it resumes its normal whine. Note that before the pump starts to hunt the engine revs through its full range. 3. Take the car for a spin and the engine runs well and runs ok even with the pump hunting but will then start to splutter and cut as the pump appears to die and then resume. **The pump is NOT getting hot just warm to the touch. There is 12.5 volts and 4.9 amps at the pump with the engine running. There is over half a tank of super unleaded. I don’t suspect the MU as the engine runs too well. The MU return pipe isn’t blocked. The pump is delivering plenty of fuel and I assume the pump delivers the same pressure and flow rate whether the engine is running or not. To double check the pump wiring I connected new cables directly to the fuse box and earth. It didn’t make any difference; however, I realise this doesn’t test the tails but I don’t really suspect the wiring. The pump and MU were rebuilt about a year ago and were then checked over by Neil F. Neil also checked over the return valve and found all to be satisfactory. All of the pipe work is new as is the delphi fuel filter, (no leaks anywhere). The car has only done 150 miles since the rebuild and was running well before the above symptoms started. Unfortunately, I don’t have a pressure gauge but suspecting the PRV rather than the pump or the MU I started the engine, waited for the pump to start hunting and then clamped off the PRV return pipe. Restricting the return flow (cant fully clamp it off) almost stops the pump from hunting. With the pump switched off and the return pipe removed from the PRV I noticed that fuel constantly dribbles past the adjuster screw. Having now removed the PRV I can also blow into the PRV and feel a trickle of air past the adjuster screw – is this normal or is there excessive wear between the valve body, the distance piece and the valve. The valve and plunger are clean and appear to be airtight and not sticking; the spring is OK and the strainer is free from dirt. Grateful for any ideas before coughing up yet more cash on a new valve. (P.S. I am going to look for a pressure tester) Many Thanks Ross
  9. Thanks for the offer Peter, i got one from Neil.
  10. Thanks both, I will give him a call in the new year. Ross
  11. Hi, does anyone know where I can buy an Inlet Union and Strainer for a TR6 metering unit. I have tried the usual sellers to no avail. I guess the strainer is there to collect any crud in the fuel which may get past the filter and pump strainer, but how likely is this? Could I get away with an off the shelf union and ignore the strainer? Rather stupidly I threw mine away along with the perished fuel line. My excuse is that I rebuilt the unit 5 years ago and boxed it up for safe keeping as part of a full restoration of my 1973 6 and had forgotten the union was connected to the old hose. Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks Ross
  12. Hi Neil, firstly it looks like a first rate job, really envious of the restoration and if you could see my rust bucket you would know why.. I started a full restoration of my 6 a few years back but needed to put it on hold and have since lost most of my photos and measurements. Just wondering if you have any measurements of the front end (bulkhead and forward) and any photos you would be willing to share. I have owned the car since 1978, had it in storage since 1983 and would dearly love to see it back on the road where it belongs. Anything you have would be appreciated. Thanks in anticipation. Ross
  13. Birdseye

    TR6 Callipers

    Thanks Nick, I took a look at the link and found the answer, 16PB Metric. The picture of the calliper bolts gave it away..
  14. Birdseye

    TR6 Callipers

    Brake Callipers. I am about to refurbish a pair of Brake Callipers from a 73 TR6 with chassis number CR26930. Moss brochure says the car should be fitted with 16P Metric Callipers but it has 16PB callipers. As I need to renew the entire pipe work too I would like to know if the Calliper is correct for the car year – metric/imperial. I have owned the car since it was 4 years old (off the road for the past 30) so I know the callipers have never been changed. Have I misinterpreted the Moss catalogue and are 16PB correct for this year. Thanks
  15. Thanks both, good idea. I live in the west midlands, Solihull. I may take you up on your offer but hopng for someone a little closer.
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