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About Birdseye

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  1. Birdseye


    Richard, The dowel bolts are very important. I didn't fit them as I didn't realise how important they were. Not fitting them cost me both time and money. I have attached the link from my post, its worth a read. The dowel bolts are the final fix to the problem I encountered. Regards Ross
  2. Birdseye

    Gearbox Noise

    All, many thanks to you all for your input to both of the above problems. Roger, you were spot on with the diagnosis and the required fix. I loosened all of the bell housing bolts, found a couple of 3/8 dowel bolts to install (in the correct location) retightened all and hey presto no clutch judder and very little squeal from the realease bearing. In fact the more times i depressed the clutch the less squeal there was. I am hopeful that the squeal will disappear completely after a few miles driving. Once again, many thanks. Ross
  3. Birdseye

    Gearbox Noise

    All, just had a look at the bolts and unfortunatley they are NOT of the correct size so the chances are this is the problem, well, i sincerly hope so. I will post an update as soon as i have chance to refit the correct bolts - this maybe a few days. Many thanks for all the input. Regards Ross
  4. Birdseye

    Gearbox Noise

    Hi all, quick update on symptoms and answers to a couple of points made by Roger: Roger, in my haste to reinstall the gearbox I didn't realise that there were any alignment bolts. I have since read a similar topic on the forum which also mentions these bolts and the rough clutch behaviour if they are not fitted. It appears that this could be the answer to my problem but would it also affect the release bearing and account for the squeal? Do you think it would be possible to loosen all of the bolts and install the correct alignment bolts retighten rather than drag the box out of the car? I guess it would be worth a shot or would the misalignment have already damaged any of the internals? What I cant grasp is why the box and clutch ran well for the first few miles with no symptoms. Current Symptoms: With the engine off the clutch actuation is smooth. With the engine running and cold the clutch is still smooth but as it warms the clutch becomes very notchy to engage and a real pig to release - really sticky. Roger, the Ratchet Clutch is a good description. With the engine cold (initial start up and initial run) there is no squeal from the release bearing After a minute or so the release bearing squeals on initial engagement but stops as the clutch is engaged more, it also squeals as the clutch disengages. Thanks all Ross
  5. Birdseye

    Gearbox Noise

    Hi Roger, I fitted a new steel carrier; beginning to wish I hadn't. The bearing came with the clutch. All parts from Moss. Clutch kit from Moss GCK6003X. B&B The squeal occurs when I apply pressure to the clutch pedal indicating to me that its the release bearing as it engages with the clutch. However, it does stop squealing depending on how far the clutch is engaged and conversely how far its released. It does not squeal on full release of the clutch. Another symptom - the clutch pedal is now sticking. I know its not the pedal itself as I made sure it was well lubricated when I rebuilt the pedal box 1000 miles ago. My thought here is that the steel carrier is sticking on the carrier sleeve and the pedal sticking is some sort of feedback through the hydraulics, but I'm open to suggestions. One other thing I should mention. When I replaced the release bearing and other components I left the extended push rod on the slave cylinder, I am beginning to wonder if I have applied too much pressure through the extended push rod and its damaged the entire mechanism. I have subsequently changed the extended rod for the standard length. While doing this I moved the lever arm by hand and it does feel a little bit sticky, however, there is no play so I am hopeful that I haven't broken another fork retaining pin. Regards Ross
  6. Birdseye

    Gearbox Noise

    Update on Gear Box Noise I removed the gearbox and stripped it down giving me the opportunity to give it a thorough inspection and clean. Contrary to the symptoms there was no wear on any of the bearings or the layshaft, in fact the gearbox was in an excellent state. I did take the opportunity to replace the needle bearings on the lay shaft and the filters on the overdrive which were thoroughly gummed up. What was causing the noise? My best guess is as follows: On examining the release bearing carrier there were 4 notches which had been created by the release fork. I suppose this wear should be expected after 68k miles. In addition, the release fork pins had also worn to such an extent that the release carrier bearing was able to spin on the release fork. The retaining roll pin was in place but because of the overall wear in all of these components it didn’t prevent the carrier from spinning. Additionally, and a common problem, the release fork retaining bolt had sheered. How it still operated the clutch is anybody’s guess. With all of the above in mind I believe the noise was created by the notches in the spinning release bearing carrier contacting the release fork pins and the resultant clicking whirring sound amplified by the bell housing. I replaced the above components including a new cross shaft lever cross drilled with a roll pin inserted. All is now quiet, or was for about 100 miles. The replacement release bearing has started to squeal – unbelievable – I suppose it will have to come out again – oh boy ☹
  7. Birdseye

    Gearbox Noise

    Quick update from a previous question. Clutch kit from Moss GCK6003X. B&B jargon from moss as follows. Raicam clutch systems are manufactured with the same care and attention to detail as the original equipment systems, giving you the cutting edge technology and approved quality trusted by leading vehicle manufacturers.
  8. Birdseye

    Gearbox Noise

    Thanks Andrew, i'll review the attached.
  9. Birdseye

    Gearbox Noise

    Hi Neil, Chris, I took the car off the road in 82 and 8 years ago I pulled the car apart completing a full rebuild early this year. Yes the gearbox has stood for almost 30 years. The gearbox was one of the only parts i didnt touch, however i did lift the lid to have a look at its general condition but all looked fine, oiled and no rust apparent. But I agree, standing around for that length of time may have taken its toll. I really cant recall which clutch and plate i used but i will search my invoices. Is there a particular make i should have steared clear of? thanks both Ross
  10. Birdseye

    Gearbox Noise

    Thanks for the responses. I don't think it’s the lay shaft as your replies suggest that the noise would be there constantly but not in 4th which doesn't match the symptoms. The noise is there under load in all gears and disappears when the throttle is eased off. Also, it doesn't occur whilst coasting in neutral. It will have to come out sooner rather than later as I need to swap the thrust bearing (a job for the winter), but in the meantime I am still open to suggestions before I start to delve into what is sure to be a (cogmire) . Regards Ross
  11. Birdseye

    Gearbox Noise

    The attached sound file is a recording of the noise emanating from my gearbox. 1973 TR6 with J type O/D. I have owned the car since 1979. Taken off the road in 1982. 68K miles. The clutch and plate are 700 miles old. The thrust bearing squeals slightly and will probably need changing but I don’t suspect that it’s the thrust bearing which is causing this particular noise; however, I’m open to your opinion. The noise is progressively getting worse, hardly noticeable 400 miles ago. The noise occurs in every gear but only occurs when the gearbox is under load and stops when the throttle is eased back and the load released. It also occurs with or without the O/D engaged. I don’t think it’s the gearstick fizzing (I had a Triumph Herald which did that) There’s plenty of the correct grade oil in the box. New UJ’s on the prop shaft (700 miles) I suppose it could be coming from the O/D rather than the gearbox, but again open to ideas. Anyone heard this noise or any ideas before I remove the box and pull it apart. Many Thanks Ross TR6 Gearbox Noise.m4a
  12. I would like to thank everyone who helped with this problem. Its fixed, at least for now but unfortunately I cant explain what fixed it as I took apart and cleaned most of the critical parts (excluding the MU) but including blowing through the pipework with compressed air. Whatever it was has now gone. I suspect crud in the pipework as suggested by Steve as it favours the symptoms as everything else looked fine. The one gain in this short saga, the pump has never sounded so quiet. Once again - thanks all.
  13. Mike, I think I follow your method and will give it a try as soon as I can. Kev, as per your suggestion I have just pulled the filter out of the pump. Its not perfect by any means. 3 of the 4 bracing strips (for want of a better description) are concave and I guess could be collapsing as the pump sucks fuel. However this doesn't follow the logic of the fuel flow because the fuel flows into the filter and out through the mesh and therefore the filter would expand and not collapse. But who knows with fluid dynamics. That said it cured your problem so its still worth swapping out. The one in the PRV is the same so I may just to test it while I find a replacement. I guess they are not available off the shelf. Ross
  14. Thanks Kev, the filter inside the PRV looks ok and is clean but your right its worth a thorough check, or are you referring to the mesh filter inside the pump intake ? Also, did your pump hunt (dramatically vary its pitch) with the engine running but was stable when the engine wasn't running?
  15. Mike, thanks for the info on the PRV and associated leakage. It is possible there is a partial blockage in the gravity fed line and or the filter, however, I ran the pump dumping the fuel output into a container and it flowed really well. Because it flowed freely it diverted my attention away from this possibility. But as you and Steve have both mentioned this I will check and measure the flow rate properly. In the meantime, how did you set the PRV with air - did you use a compressor setting the compressor gauge to the 100 - 110 psi. I assume it works the same as setting an injector, I will give this a try too. Ross
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