Mark1965TR4aBRG
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Posts posted by Mark1965TR4aBRG
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45 Webers - whatever you do put these on!
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Just pop the lumenition in - takes 10 mins and works a treat.
I've binned the vacuum pipe - most don't work anyway.
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You could use these.http://www.racetorations.co.uk/triumphs-c56/tr4a-c8/tr4a-axle-and-differential-c105/racetorations-fast-road-race-hub-and-competition-driveshaft-assembly-p243
You wont break them.
Stuart.
They do look the business.....
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...a rear hub failure is my biggest fear and I too plan to upgrade if only I could decide what the best system is..
I looked at the CV type and was concerned about the range of movement they offer - what is a more robust solution that offers a modern uprated hub with the necessary vertical travel?
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Ade
Here's my cable route from the bulkhead to the throttle mechanism.
Need to cap the ends of the cable outers or get custom cables made up, but then I need to finish modifying my air box - then fit it, mount the air filter in the rad cowl & fit the ducting too!
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Ade
Yes - simple enough.
The boys at TRGB modified my pedal with the Webcon twin throttle pull as per the pic.
Cables up through the bulkhead and modified in length to suit.
I was wanting originally to have a more 'fancy' system but this works a treat..
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I had the same dilemma recently fitting my 45's, but went for the Webcon top mount as a starter.
I've kept the bosses on the Bastuck manifolds in case I want to mess about with crank arms and rose joints and had to extend the balance arm which was also strengthened. I've been advised to put a cross brace on the extension as well, so that will happen at some point as it's fine for now.
There's not a great deal of room for a lower mount and the top mount is so far working well and having lost a return spring once already it was quick to pop back on at the roadside..
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You're an inspiration to all spannering enthusiasts.
I think three Christmas's ago I popped out to adjust something and pulled the head off!! On went the alternator conversion, hi torque starter, new cam etc etc etc. We're all slightly guilty.
Next on my list is to sort out the routemaster type gear leaver throw for something a bit more direct.... Any ideas??
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You make me feel like a fraudster Roger what with all your hard work and worry.
I decided on a new engine and a list of other jobs and drove my car to TRGB only to pick it up again a couple of months later and hey presto it's all good. I would really have liked to do the work myself but just did not have the time or inclination - besides Jason at TRGB builds damn good engines.
So now I've run it in, fitted the Webers and lumenition & rev limiter and will go test my new shift light in the easter sun today - before it chucks it down for the rest of the weekend.
Good luck on Tuesday and keep us posted!!
....have I missed the progress pictures?
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I had a valuation from TRGB. Probably a bit out of date now... Must get an updated value, and no doubt increase my premium.
Pete
Exactly the same for me.
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I need to do the same when I renew. Got a valuation from my tr dealer and will accompany that with a load of pictures for the insurance company.
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Very nice too. I've had a couple of Alfa Romeos in my time but never a Lancia.
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So I do not have the felt on my fuel tank.
Should I pull the tank and fit some?
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Hi Roger,
the felt was attached by TRiumph from original.
The layers on the under side are there to ensure that the bottom of the tank corrodes out fairly quickly.
It was probably placed there to keep things quiet. In fact you can;t here steel rusting so it works.
Roger
Interesting stuff Roger - I've had several tanks before I found one that was useable and none had this on - we live and learn!!
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I suspect something aftermarket....
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Thanks TomHi Mark ~
Your set-up is the perfect solution. Very similar to the Austin Healey cold air box for the '100'M. (LeMans).
Unfortunately there is no room for such a set-up on a 3A otherwise I'd readily install it!
Tom.
I'm hoping it's the optimum solution - taken a bit of engineering so far but all good fun!!
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I've said before how sceptical I am about this subject, for two reasons.
1/ I did wrap my tubular, mild steel manifold with fibreglass strip once. After it got tatty and torn, I took it off, to find the manifold in a sorry state. Heavy rusting , with in some places, 'leaves' of rust, like onion skins came off. Weird blue, orange and black discolouration.
2/ I used to base my criticism on a comparison between the fraction of a millimeter thickness of ceramic coating and the six inches of ceramic insulation that the Space Shutrle carried, when the temperature difference was not far away from what there is inside an exhaust manifold. Then a kind person explained "emissivity" to me. This is the coefficient of thermal radiation, and a "black body", a theoretically perfect radiator would have a value of 1, which for the best heat retaining surface that radiated no heat at all, however hot it was, would be 0.
Fibreglass has an emissivity coefficient of 0.75
Stainless steel is 0.59
MIld steel is 0.24! (It gets a lot more radiant once it gets an oxidised surface. About 0.8)
Ceramic Zirconia on steel has an emissivity of around 0.5
So, fibreglass makes even stainless steel a BETTER radiator of heat. It does nothing to keep heat away from anything else, but makes it worse!
And a ceramic coating on stainless is a waste of money.
It makes mild steel a much better radiator, althogh what it really does is protect it from rusting.
So, for best value, a stainless manifold, and leave it naked!
John
Thanks John
This would be easier and cheaper so gets my vote.
I don't like to go too far with the wrap and change it periodically in case it gets all oily and flammable.
Interesting stuff...
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Mine's something like this...
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Hello again,
My initial thoughts are that the car would run much better if it were breathing cold air, basic engineering. But having the air intakes directly above the manifold must cause a few issues on this front no? So I am thinking maybe the fitment of a heat shield below the air filters / above the xhuast manifold. Or using exhaust heat wrap to keep external temps down and an gas exhaust efficiency increase.
My plan is to fist fit a tubualr manifold by the way.
Also of course I would look to include some descreet cold air ducting to the filters.
What do you folks think on this subject and what options have you chose??
Cheers
Dave...
I have a Phoenix manifold that's wrapped and I've used lock wire to keep it tight. I've just fitted the Revington alternator shield too so it's all groovy.
My air box is to be welded now it's cut to suit the Webers and will be fed with fresh air via an air filter sitting inside the rad cowl and duct to the air box. Fresh air is as you say a good thing to the carbs.
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The lever system is fine for the under carb set up with the SU's, but the Webers have a twin pull cable set up that's top mounted. What's needed is more like the TR6 set up with twin cables through the bulkhead.
The mills pin/throttle arm will be a retained as a secondary return spring.
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I'm sure it is a weighty piece of kit, but at least that helps justify the uprated rear springs and shocks . . . . .
But when you think about it engine to tailpipe . . . . . . 4 into 2 into 1 into 2 into 4 . . . . . sounds like someone having a midlife crisis at a wife swapping party . . . .
Cheers
Alec
Sure beats a mdlife crisis taking up golf!!
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.....even if they do work upside down!
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Stuart.
The throttle pedal fairies have been busy.....
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Crikey - looks very heavy..
130BHP Engine - Recommendations
in TR4/4A Forum
Posted · Edited by Mark1965TR4aBRG
Having done the above and some I carefully run in my new engine on the SU"s and then proceeded to give it some beans. It wasn't quite what I had hoped it would be, but impressive none the less.
After a short while I then moved to Webers and the difference is like night and day - they were carefully set up by a man who knows on a rolling road and I have retained the low down pull, torquey mid range with a real pull up to the red line. The engine bay looks better and the car sounds so much better too.
I really do not understand the negativity towards Webers and surely a Venturi per cylinder is the preferred option.
I'm no expert but if you would like to come and have a ride in my car you'll see what I mean.
I didn't consider the cost of the Webers over SU's one bit and I ran my SU's for 5 years quite happily before the major engine work.