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Posts posted by Mark1965TR4aBRG
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Folks.
My water pump is shifting enough water at higher engine revs to blow past the softer sprung cap. Everything is fine with the 13psi cap - same as TR6's I believe.
It's s new water pump in a new engine, so at the top of the efficiency scale perhaps..
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I've an efficient water pump, nothing is over heating nor problematic now the pressure is being retained with a stronger rad' cap.
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Personally I wouldn't go above a 7 psi cap.
You would if you kept losing your header tank over your engine bay!!
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I've changed my new radiator's cap to a TR6 item with a much stronger Spring. My header tank was spewing coolant at higher revs as the water pump displaces more at speed. The higher pressure retention increases the collant's boiling point too. Engine always kept a good temperature despite being stuck in traffic at >30 degrees on several occasions.
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For sure a cold hood is a different beast to a warm one!
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The hood was a job I didn't dare attempt. Once up and snapped tight there's nothing poking into the material if that helps..
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Thanks folks.
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Superb information thank you - the power of the forum.
I've just spoken to Bob and looks like the Rally seat is the one. I will take note of your comments thank you about head rest thickness.
So now does anyone want a pair of MKII MX5 seats??
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Thanks Pete
New to me but a quick look via Google and they could well have what I'm after - certainly looks promising.
Very much appreciated.
Cheers
Mark
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Looks like a good job Alan.
I'm after more of a period rally style with significant side supports.
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I'd certainly start with removing the front valance spoiler effort...
and finish with 45 webers..
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Folks
I have MKI MX5 seats in my 4a and i'm looking for something more supportive, by which I mean more a period rally/bucket seat, rather than plusher upholstery.
Any suggestions?
Many Thanks
Mark
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Have a chat with TRGB - they sorted all my interior parts for me - spot on as ever.
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As said by Pete it sounds like a rebuild is in order. My engine pre rebuild blew quite badly too and mainly from the crankshaft oil seal.
I now run a catch tank on my new engine and its drip free. You can expect to burn some oil with these engines.
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Hi Mark,
Do you have any bhp figures (@ the wheels) for your new excellent sounding engine?
Cheers,
Mr Curious.
No is the short answer.
The rolling road was to get the car running right with correct jets and that was done.
Perhaps I should go do a power run just for info, but whatever it says the torque and drive ability are top drawer and I love it with Webers...
Opinion is c165 crank horses.
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Adam - pop up to TRGB and I'll take you for a spin in my recently fitted new engined 4a. All I can say is that this new engine is superb and made even better by twin 45 Webers. Jason at TRGB is their engine builder and he's very fastidious.
My spec is std crank, 89mm, fast road cam, gas flowed head, balanced internals, lightweight flywheel, etc etc and with the Webers on it not only goes well it starts, ticks over and generally behaves itself in all situations. I was going to go with a full billet crank engine but decided to keep the bottom end standard in the end and I'm pleased I did. My Webers were fettled by Mass and the improvement was eye opening.
Best if you can actually experience what you get with your choices. Many here will say SU's are adequate and indeed they are (I ran them for 6 years) but twin 45 Webers adds a whole new dimension to the car and the soundtrack too.
You'll need to invest in suspension, brakes, tyres etc etc too if you want to make the most of the extra horses I'd say.
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Mark if yours are that bad then they need attention. My wipers are very good on both speeds.
They work just fine peejay - would like a foot switch like the main beam and as the MKI escorts had just for a manual wipe. Otherwise it's a well timed switch flick - all part of the fun.
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Fantastic. What a cool story and picture!!
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Fast & Slow - mine are Slow & Slower and wiper parking is carried out by a well predicted switch flick!
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Braided lines, servo, ventilated discs with caliper spacers and asbestos pads if you have the right source backed up with decent grippy tyres and a well set up hydraulic circuit.
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Lovely work - congratulations - looks stunning!!
Enjoy the summer.
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I needed some tricky parts today, example LH TR4 brake plate 133500, Moss catalogue said 'Call' so I did. The guy was really slow to respond, not helpful at all. May need to get it as a used part. But, what does the panel think on these suppliers ?
I find Rimmer the best, accurate, have more parts, but prices a little more higher.
I find Moss a bit generic, they seem to cover more manufacturers and not so helpful, less specific.
I find Leacy seem good price wise, though only cover major items, if you need specific small items, often not there.
I find Revington TR good until I accidentally hit empty Cart rather than update Cart and lost the lot.
Who is the best supplier ?
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I have the Piper Red - very nice to drive and kicks in at higher rpm.
Had the Yellow before with 87mm pistons and that was quite linear feeling.
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Hello and welcome
My car was also a USA car that came back to the uk in 1990 and in my ownership now for 6 years I've put it back on the road and converted to RHD.
It's most definitely worth it in the end..
Good luck.
Water expansion stuff
in TR4/4A Forum
Posted
The rad is new - larger capacity too.