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Larryjc

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    27
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About Larryjc

  • Birthday 02/16/1953

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  • Website URL
    https://larryjc.wixsite.com/mysite

Profile Information

  • Location
    Martock Somerset
  • Cars Owned:
    The list too long but 7 TR7V8s at one time or another

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  1. Just posted on our FB page with some video and photos. A great day with a record 18 entries. Larry
  2. Just had the entry list for Gurston on 16 April - we've got 17 cars entered which is exactly half of all those registered and possibly a record. Should be a good day. Spectating is allowed and there is a good cafe and other facilites. So why not come along and watch??
  3. For all of you north of the border, I am looking at possilbe rounds there next year, the problem with Bo Ness is that for some weird reason MUK won't let championships run there - makes no sense to me.
  4. Just to let everyone know that we have now had our regulations for the 2022 season approved and they will be updated on the web soon. I've attached them here in case anyone wants them in advance. Also before they are udated on the web, feel free to use the 2021 registration forms as they haven't actually changed. We now have 30 rounds to compete in this year with several new venues incuding the Lotus test track at Hethel, and the race circuits at Cadwell Park and Lyden HIll. If you were thinking of having a go, now couldn't be a better time. Larry 2022 regs master.pdf
  5. Yup did it with my V8. I also put a decent temp gauge to replace the naff Triumph one. You will need to remove the console and get out a drill and saw and cut out a great deal of the plastic that holds the gauge in. Most replacement gauges come with a u clamp that holds the gauge in place. Its actually quite hard to fit this in so I didn't bother. You will almost certainly have to file out the hole that the old gauge peeped through and fit the new gauge from the outside. If you are careful you can make the hole a good interference fit and that's enough to hold everything in place (a litt
  6. I would agree with Mick and remove the plugs and spin over with the starter motor - see if you get oil pressure even a few psi will be a good indication. If the engine has done many miles (more than 60,000) I would consider a cam/lifters and timing gear replacement - all can be done with the engine in the car (have to remove the radiator). Would also be worth removing the heads and checking valve stems and seats. However, if the engine is reasonably low mileage then put it all together and see how it runs. You can prime the engine with oil by removing the distributor and spining the oil pu
  7. Best way to bleed them is to go to Halfords and buy one of the Gunston pressure bleeders that you connect to a tyre so you don't need to do the up/down thing with the pedal and upset you other half in the process. It also much better at driving out air bubbles. I always start at the lowest one first to chase the air 'uphill'.
  8. I bought my current TR7V8 last year and after a few years doing other things was particularly surprised at how heavy the steering was. Maybe its age and being used to modern cars but it was really bad particularly when parking and at low speed. As I am hillclimbing the car, hairpins have been a real pain - just getting the lock on and off. I put roller top bearings in and gave the whole system some TLC with the grease gun but it made little difference. I started to look for power steering and found the old hydraulic system to be just about impossible to source. I then looked at electric sy
  9. Hi Spec Motorsport do a 285 mm disc and lightweight 4 pot caliper set up. Beware though when I ordered one, despite asking for assurances up front they still managed to send me a TR6 set !! Not cheap either but pretty good. In the end I stuck with the Capri brakes that the car came with but using Ferodo f3000 pads which I personally love - they work from cold and are very effective.
  10. Thats the tool that Rimmers sent me but it was virtually useless as when you pull up the clip it tends to force it shut. I've now solved the problem by bending the V shape into a U that merely holds the clip. I also just tease the clip open a little with a screwdriver first so that it has the slightest chance of going over the door flange and the rubber. You have to be careful though as its quite easy to overdo it and snap the clip in half.
  11. That describes the tool that Rimmers supplied. I'll give that a try. Thanks
  12. Can't find the answer to this with a search so sorry if its been asked before. But does anyone know how to get the silly little clips into place that secure the rubber weather strips along the tops of the doors that stop water going between the window and the door? I've got the clips and a 'tool' that Rimmers supplied. It looks like a bent piece of tin and for the life of me I can't see how it works. The spring clips are sprung shut and have to be opened enough to go over the internal lip of the door and the bottom of the rubber strip. - and then clipped from the far side. I assumed the
  13. Larryjc

    Hot TR7V 8

    My race engines always had the centre of the thermostat taken out but I also had no heater. For a road car its not really a good idea. By the way - what is the restrictor you mention?
  14. Larryjc

    Hot TR7V 8

    Thanks guys. I knew about the limitations of the laser pointer thingy. I certainly seems to me that the flow is all wrong. The system I have uses a standard v belt but I'm going to strip it all down and look. I raced these engines for years in TR8s and I've rebuilt several from scratch and never seen anything like this. I also have two cartons of radiator speed flush in the wings.
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