JohnC
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Posts posted by JohnC
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23 hours ago, Mike C said:
+1. Note I've never had much time for vacuum brake bleeders- unless you are really careful they will suck air in around the bleed nipple.
17 hours ago, Macleesh said:Good idea re the compressor, forgot I have that capability, although I don't use it for brake bleeding, I prefer my Eezibleed.
Agreed. I love my Ezibleed. I use the compressor/vacuum generator when calibrating the PI.
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Just get a regular vacuum gauge, like this one (this is an Australian supplier, but they're pretty generic). There are also more sensitive ones, but I assume you only need to measure around the 10"Hg range. I have a 0-100kPa and a 0-15kPa connected in parallel for my PI calibration rig.
If you need to generate a vacuum it's very simple if you have a compressor - just connect the airline to a vacuum generator (a venturi with an adjustable flow rate). No need to pump, and the vacuum stays nice and stable. Ish.
John C
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On 6/25/2023 at 9:57 PM, SlickV8 said:
Hi John. I thought the aim of bleeding the injectors was to string them up & run fuel pump until they are all dripping??
To clarify: If the engine is not running (but the fuel pump is) there should be zero fuel coming out of the injectors. Fuel should only flow when the shuttle moves back & forth which can only happen with the engine running. Well, I suppose it could theoretically move once if the engine stopped at exactly the point it was about to, but not again. If there is flow under these conditions, even a tiny dribble, the MU needs to be looked at. There must be something in it allowing fuel past where it shouldn't. One of the big O rings, or even the shuttle.
If the engine is running then all injectors should spray. A dribble means something is wrong (covered by others in this thread).
Glad to see you've got it running better. As Andy says, the goal should be to control the idle with the air valve screw. You should be able to stop the car by screwing it all the way in. That doesn't mean the butterflies must slam shut, just that they let through precious little air. Again as Andy says, the butterflies must open synchronously for the pickup to be hesitation free. I balance mine at something between 1500 and 2000rpm with the air valve closed (using the throttle stop screw to hold the revs). That seems to work well, but it certainly isn't the only way. My logic is that 2000rpm with no load is a nearly closed throttle, which is where we most need everything to be balanced.
Have fun with it
John
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Going out on a (very short) limb here. It is not the shuttle. If that were stuck you'd get nothing. I suspect you damaged some seals when you removed and replaced the unions. As a rule, I don't take apart the MU unless I have replacements for all the seals & O-rings (the barrel shaped seals in particular). They get deformed and harden over time and are easily damaged on reassembly. You may have done that when you removed and replaced the unions. A strong indicator of that is the dripping with the ignition on. There should be zero flow from the injectors if the engine isn't running. If there is, then high-pressure fuel is making its way between the rotor and sleeve or between sleeve and MU body, and into the injector lines.
Fit the recon PI, make sure you have a healthy and well-charged battery, check the fuel pressure *when cranking* and then give it a whirl.
JC
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On 5/27/2023 at 5:28 AM, Tom B said:
I think John means that the valves on the poppet valve are much like the valves in the cylinder head. The injectors can be disassembled and, using some grinding paste the seats can be re-cut. It also helps to set the opening pressure of the valves to ~50psi. If you search the forums there are ways of doing this (I posted something myself). It is not difficult but requires a little patience and for goodness sake don't lose the snap ring! (I have been unable to find a source for these) A simple test, though, is to run the engine, stop it and take the injectors out and see if they are leaking. A well tuned nose will help you with this.
Exactly so. But, as others have already posted, a battery in good condition is also very important to immediate starting.
John
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I experienced the symptoms you describe many years ago. It turned out to be a tiny bit of plastic film in line to the pre-filter. Never worked out how it got there. When the engine was running it would eventually block the line. Stop the engine and it would fall out of place. So, maybe check the lines to your pump & filter, and a look into the fuel tank might not go amiss.
JC
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You will get air bubbles in the injector lines if there is any issue with the injector poppet valve, the internal 'O' ring, or the non-return valve. I fitted translucent white injector lines a while ago and it really shows up if one or more line is getting air bubbles. My experience is that a small bubble (~2cm long) is pretty much as small as you'll get it, possibly because it's caused by air being drawn in as the fuel cools (?). That size bubble clears with no hesitation on starting. Anything in the 5cm range or larger causes a delay in that cylinder catching. In the case of my car the poppet valves all needed re-seating. The 'O' rings made a difference but didn't fix the problem entirely.
JC
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Before you do that, check how the splines look compared with Marco's pics. If the wheel splines are worn then your new splined hubs will wear faster than they should. TBH my guess is that you have cured only half the problem by replacing the hubs. In any case, have a look. If you decide new wheels are needed then you could get splined alloys to go with your nice new hubs!
JC
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Yes, fitted that kit (TRGB source from Fred Millturn I believe). Works fine.
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How many do I get for my $160? Sorry if it's on the site but I couldn't see the quantity. Unless a set is one.
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1 hour ago, RobH said:
If it was my car with a later ACR or similar alternator, I would remove the wire from the connector block to the starter and instead connect the block to the second output terminal on the alternator. The connector block could then be used as a convenient pick off point for all new loads and the ammeter will read as intended.
Nice. Thanks - that's something I've been puzzling over. I still may go the voltmeter route(and make sure all loads possible don't go that way) as I want to minimise current behind the dash, but this is very elegant. And with "LED everything" I may abandon the behind dash objective.
JC
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On 2/9/2023 at 11:22 PM, Coops said:
I always thought
I’m confused. Are you saying you realise you were wrong? Or that something in this thread is wrong? I’m considering a servo refurbishment and ambiguous comments send me into ever-decreasing spirals!
John C
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17 hours ago, stuart said:
High level brake light fitting
Where have you fitted that?
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Not really clear from the photo where the emergency release goes, but let’s assume it’s not accessible (D’oh!). My experience is that you can pry up the passenger’s side of the bonnet enough to push the catch open. Important caveats: pry up with something plastic or wood, and use the same material (I used a bamboo gardening thing) to push. Otherwise you will scratch the paintwork or start a fire.
John
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Hi Ernst,
If you want to work on your TR yourself, this is a good job to take on. It involves only spanner work, skinned knuckles and swearing. And a massive cost saving. At that price I’d probably be able to fly over from Australia to do the job for you! And I’m only slightly joking.
John
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20 hours ago, Steves_TR6 said:
Yes, i remember red,blue and yello poly.
and the front mounts on my 6 are yellow
But these days blue superpro seems de-rigeur
I could see the ones I fitted as a purply blue
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When I fitted purple Superpro poly bushes many years ago I was under the impression they had the same stiffness as the original rubber. There were alternatives which were stiffer. Is that now not the case? All I noticed on my car was lots of missing noise - no increase in harshness.
J
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From what you've said, I wonder if you definitely need to let someone loose on your block. Have you had the car set up on a rolling road? That way you would at least know you're getting the best out of what you have before committing to spending lots of money. Also, do you know what cam you have? Would be worth comparing notes with other owners running SUs.
J
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On 2/2/2023 at 1:40 AM, Andy Moltu said:
If it definitely the rad why not get it re-cored and forget for 20 years.
+1 for that!
I brought my TR6 with me to Australia 32yrs ago and, in preparation for the move, I fitted a Kenlowe fan (in addition to engine-driven) and an oil cooler. Soon after arriving, my car overheated (on the Sydney Harbour Bridge, no less). My local radiator guy looked at it and diagnosed many blocked tubes. I had it re-cored and since then I've removed both oil cooler (after two of the little devils sprung a leak and dumped all the oil on the road) and the electric fan. 30yrs later the car still runs fine in Sydney traffic in summer. I have admittedly now fitted a Revotec pusher fan, but that's to make space for the hydraulic power steering.
JC
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Thank goodness our cars don’t need Borrani or similar to be original ! And it’s great to hear the helping approach continues. The seats in my car were given to me by a UK member.
JC
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19 hours ago, John L said:
upps didn't read correctly.
Good tip, even so
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On 12/11/2022 at 10:37 PM, EGCD said:
Initial indications are that the car starts really well, but as I say I am just leaving it for a couple of weeks now.
So can we expect a Christmas Eve present (update)?
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On 11/18/2022 at 6:49 AM, john.r.davies said:
The return line from the M/ u is not like that on moderns. They send full flow to the injectors and the EMU tells them how much to use, the rest returning.
Under Lucas Pi, the M/u determines the flow, and it divides up that to each injector. The return is merely for the inevitable leakage of fuel from around the bobbin and rotor. That line has no valve in it, so it could in time allow back flow and a head of negative pressure at the injectors, causing them to aspirate air.
Hi John,
If I follow your logic (which make sense to me at least), that would point to the culprit being one of the two large O rings in the MU, or the diaphragm seal. That would let fuel leak from the MU, into the return line in the case of the diaphragm and one of the O rings. I know the entire CU/MU has been reconditioned, but it's not unknown for an O ring to get damaged in reassembly. Worth a look?
JC
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No body adjustment needed on my TR6. Looking at how I fitted it, I'd say I mounted the rack as far to the RHS as possible. Otherwise as Pete says.
John
Misfire when accelerating from tickover.
in TR6 Forum
Posted
+1 for balancing the butterflies. That's really critical for the initial pickup.