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billy l

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Posts posted by billy l

  1. Hi Charlie, The arm is made by Desmo and fitted with a Lucas central mounted mirror, all purchased at autojumbles, I still see them for sale occasionaly, it is held on with just one slightly longer stantion screw, (no drilling required) it has never moved in all the time it's been fitted, another advantage is you can open the door fully with the sidescreen fitted.  Cheers, Bill.

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  2. Hi Ralph, The wind wings work quite well, they don't stop all the buffeting but you can trim them in and out like wing flaps to suit the conditions, I had to remove the hinges from the perspex (easy to do, just unscrews) and turn them around to give space for the sidescreens to fit, very happy with them and would recommend.  Cheers, Bill.

    P1010745_0532a.jpg

  3. Hi Mark, I have a steering rack conversion fitted, (bolt on type), I still have the original fan fitted, all that was required was to raise the engine up slightly by fitting shims under the engine mounts to give clearance for the rack. The shims are just visible in the photo.The rack is a great improvement, steering is much lighter, also if you wished you can take your hands off the wheel and the car just stays in a straight line. hope this helps, Bill.

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  4. How far is the rear angle arm where the ball hitch bolts on away from the body? I'm just thinking if you can move the whole tow bar forward so  the two holes line up you could drill new holes where the exhaust clamps go? in effect move the whole bar forward. (just a thought)  Cheers, Bill.

  5. Bring back Ed China. He works just as a mechanic works, Ant on the other hand seems to work from a script and always happens to know which size of spanner/Socket is needed before he starts working. (funny that).

    Cheers, Bill.

     

     

  6. Hi Rich, I have not replaced a bush on your particular model but in the past I have used a small two legged puller or if the hole is too small for the puller I use just a hacksaw blade ( wrap some cloth around the part of the blade that you hold) and cut a groove right through the bush this loosens it and it is easy to just winkle it out, hope this helps, Cheers, Bill 

  7. Make sure master cylinder is fully topped up, Crack open both bleed nipples and leave them open, fluid should creep out, put pipes on them and let the fluid run into a jar, this should release any pressure in the system, whilst this is happening check the wheels to see if they turn, if they turn the problem is probably hydaulic , if still won't turn problem is probably inside drums, my money is on hydraulic, Cheers, Bill

  8. If you do go down the road of using a press, first you need a big one, (press that is), take off the big castleated nut, put it back on upside down and screw it on until it is flush with the end of the halfshaft, this protects the thread and also prevents the shaft from flying out when it lets go which it will do with a bang, also make sure the flange is fully supported otherwise it will bend. good luck, cheers, Bill.

  9. 3 hours ago, ChrisR-4A said:

    The concentric  clutch method is obviously the ultimate solution, however I am a believer in keeping it simple with as many original parts as possible and a kit which could solve the problem and be fitted by the average home mechanic would be ideal.

    To this end the following may be worth considering

    1. Fix the fork by the normal method. 

    2. Cut the cross  shaft about 3ins pertruding from the fork on LH (lever side). 

    3. Weld or braze the fork to shaft. 

    4. Have a machine shop produce a sleeve with 2 inch long internal splines, a split end and a pinch bolt. and cut mating splines on the remaining rh half of the shaft. Weld sleeve to cross  shaft next to fork, or cut splines and clamp. 

    The RH half could be assembled from the inside outwards and the LH side could be slid in from the LH outside as normal, pushed into the female splined sleeve and clamped up. 

    Chris

     

     

     

    That's keeping it simple?  Cheers, Bill.

  10. I had a similar problem years ago, everything was set up as per the book and it was still flooding, I progressively lowered the float level until it stopped flooding, this works fine and has no effect on the running of the vehicle, I can floor the accelerator in third gear and keep it there whilst going up a long steep hill with no sign of fuel starvation. hope this helps, Cheers, Bill.

  11. Taking over from opie's post in TR2/3/3a forum, reference our cars in films, has anybody owned/driven any vehicles that have appeared on screen?, In the 1962 film Go to Blazes starring Dave King, Robert Morley and other notables, there appears in a few shots a Dennis F24 Fire Engine reg no 97 SPK that I drove to many shouts during the 70's/80's, it has an automatic gearbox, straight 8cylinder Rolls Royce engine, no power steering, and vacuum brakes that you really had to stand on to stop the vehicle, it was a great machine much loved by all who drove her. Anyone else got any tales?  Cheers, Bill.

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