Rorr1971
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Posts posted by Rorr1971
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Thanks for the ideas. Will try the ant rattle springs first and see how I go.
I could only find one supplier if these on eBay, however in saying that I do find some suppliers will only ship to the uk so don't come up in my global search here in Australia.
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Hi
Recently I have noticed driving down the freeway a rotating squeak sound coming from the front wheels ( I think ). Decided to replace the wheel bearings. They were fine and did not stop the squeak.
Tapping the brakes, noise stops.
Wheel bearings are good, pad thickness fine and all tolerances ok.
I have read about TR6 squeaking brakes, however these all seem to be when stopping, not coasting.
Does anyone have any ideas?
Cheers rob
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Hi graze
Thanks for providing this feed back. I have been thinking of getting a new hood myself.
Do you have any pictures of your nice new hood?
Thanks rob
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Hi tony
I have not done anything one the rear (apart from diff out to repair the mounts) so have not looked at the camber. I may have been accelerating when this pic was taken.
having another look to day in the shed it does not look the same so the pic is a little mis leading.
I will compare other tr6 when I at the next club meet. Thanks for the pointer
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Na no OD on mine
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Hi mark
From moss the headers are PXTH604 with the super sports cross box PXS5203
Had to modify the exhaust tube to get it through the breast plate on the chassis
Thanks
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Hi mark
I fitted the Phoenix headers with cross flow rear. Purchased from moss.
No problems with the standard under slung linkage.
I did have to modify the bracket for the air manifold so it cleared the extractor pipes.
It does sound good and really freed up the engine, money well spent.
rob
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Thanks Alan, good to know ths pump works. I have now ordered the sytec pump.
I have a direct power feed with relay in place so extra amps should be ok.
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Thanks mark.
Found the post I was looking for
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Hi
I have been trawling through the forum to get information on the best fuel pump to replace the bosch pump I have installed
I cannot find a part number on the existing pump. With bosch changing some part numbers it's all seems a bit confusing.
So looking at other threads in the forum I could references to the following pumps
Bosch 0 580 254 040/sytec P3022.1 (sytec appears to be a in tank model)
Bosch 0 580 254 910/sytec P3019.1
My question is what is the best bosch or sytec pump for the TR6 today?
I am planning purchasing the prestige pvr to see if this assist in reducing noise.
Thanks
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Hi
I went the Phoenix headers and cross flow muffler. Made a huge difference. Expensive, but worth every penny. Car is more responsive and has a fantastic sound. Who needs a radio.
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Thanks Rorr
No problem running the battery down ?
Mark.
No problem so far. It only runs on for about a minute. I have also fitted a higher output bosch alternator to keep up with the fan, bosch fuel pump and electronic ignition. No more glowing red light at idle now.
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Hi mark
I have just completed this with a revotec fan. Mine runs off a hot power source with its own fuse so runs on to cool the car after its turned off. I used the relay supplied with the fan by just pulling the connector off the supplied relay. Mine is a 1974 model with a volt meter so i did not have to worry about any ammeter issues. The thermo switch is the lower stainless pipe with a boss fitting.
Attached is a diagram of what I did. Works well. Have already been for an hour drive on a 30 degree day and was stuck in traffic. No issue. Did not bother with a light or overide switch
Hope this is useful
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Hi Neil,
Thanks for the reply
Yep new sleeve. The old one was very grooved from the dodgy seal. When you say dry seal do you mean just the gasket with no silicone?
Do you know if any of the other bolts penetrate the water channel ?
thanks Richard for the tip
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Hi
Looking for advice again. I cannot thank this forum enough. You guys have been a wealth of knowledge over the 3 years I have had my car. I am slowly building up my own knowledge now too.
I recently pulled off the timing case to fix a leaking front seal. Good news is I fixed that leak, however I now have another couple of different leaks.
Leak 1 : the lower part of the timing case is now leaking oil when the engine is hot. Suspect this was always leaking just did not notice it. I now intend to drop the sump and replace the front seal bridge with a steel one. Suspect the one in there is not allowing the seal to torque up. Do you think I will need to take the timing cover off again or get away with installing the new seal bridge and torque up. i did fit a new gasket when I had it off last.
Leak 2: looks like the bolt holding the timing case that penetrates the water channel is weaping coolant. Does this bolt need some silicone or similar applied to the thread.
Thanks rob
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Thanks for the comments David.
The rubbers are in good condition, but perhaps you are right poly might be better. Also looking at the good parts sold aluminium mounts too.
Took the car for a spin and it handles no different. Perhaps I am just used to the play as it may have been there all along. Still now I have noticed it I want to get it addressed.
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Hi
Just finished installing new radiator and replaced the timing case oil.
When repositioning the steering rack I have had no end of trouble trying to compress the rubber mounts.
Did see in the forum to use a couple of Mole grips. This did work.
So put everything back together and lowered the car off the stands. Though I would turn the steering wheel to see if there was any play in the rubber mounts when turning the rack. Found there is a bit of play, few mm, when going left to right and right to left. I cannot get the lock nuts any tighter. Is this normal?
Did not notice any before and did not really look.
Thanks
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Just an update to close this one off. Used a bearing separator to remove bush off the crank. Came off with ease. Guess it was just a need to get even pulling force across the bush to remove it.
Thanks again for all the suggestions.
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Thanks for all the ideas. Brown book gives no info on removing the sleeve other than you remove it.
Heat trick was on the agenda for today so will give this a try. I was hoping to avoid removing the timing gear and chain as this looks all ok.
Thanks again guys - back to the shed now.
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Hi
Happy holidays all. Looking for some advice.
I am installing a thermo fan and while in there am replacing the timing case oil seal.
Have every thing removed now and the found the timing case oil seal was very hard not really sealing so am glad I decided to do this.
Problem I now have is it sleeve on the crank is worn and will need to be replaced. It does not seem to want to move. I have sprayed it with penetrating oil, but no joy. Ant tricks in getting this off?
Thanks
Rob
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Hi
I had the same problem after pulling the throttle bodies off and made the mistake of cleaning them.
I read a post that advised the butterfly seats could be a bit worn. the carbon and **** i cleaned was actually helping the butterfly seal when returning.
The post advised to place a small amount on grease where the butterfly seats against the throttle body.
Worked for me with no problems for several months now. one day i will get these reconditioned.
Hope it helps.
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Hi
When looking for a new exhaust system for my TR6 I was really keen to hear the sound before paying out all the money and having it shipped out to Australia.
Thought I would up load a short video if anyone is interested in hearing the sound of a Phoenix 6-3-1 headers and cross flow muffler fitted to my PI CR TR6. The system was purchased from Moss UK.
http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=6063
I am really happy with the sound and the engine is running so much better.
The only draw back with this system the exhaust tube needed a fair bit of bending at a local exhaust shop to ensure it passed the gearbox bracket and cleared the chassis plate. Not really a back yard fitting job.
Here is the short video,
Thanks Rob
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Hi Stallie
There is a guy in North Melbounre I have used, really good. He is has all the old equipment for setting MU and injectors up.
Ken Airs Petrol Injection Services
Address: 5 Baillie St, North Melbourne, VIC, 3051
Phone number: (03) 93297559
Thanks Rob
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Hi Jim
I had a similar problem recently after changing out the master cylinder and rear wheel cylinders. When opening the rear nipples a had fluid coming out, however I was not happy with the volume and could not get a firm peddle.
After reading some other post it was recommended to bench bleed the master cylinder. I actually did this in the car with some well placed rags and the assistance of a helper to apply pressure to the peddle. Basically attached a tube to an old brake connector at the front master outlet and feed this back into the master tank.
After a few pumps had a really good flow. hooked up the system again, bleed the brakes and firm peddle.
Might not be your problem, but it go me back in the road.
Thanks
Rob
Squeaky brakes
in TR6 Forum
Posted
Hi Neil
What do I need to be looking out for with the pin size. If found the same part as Stuart advised from the same supplier. There is no option for pin size and the web site advises this part will fit the 74 TR6.
Looking forward to eradicating this squeak. As cubehopper advised, the noise attacks unwanted looks.
Cheers Rob