Bully
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Posts posted by Bully
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I have been following this topic for a while, as I also needed some good quality bumpers for my TR4A to finish an excellent rebuild.
Anyway, Harrington have just started making stainless steel units for the TR4A, so I brought some. Placed order last Friday, and they turned up yesterday (Thursday - only 6 days from order !!)
Quality is fantastic, good quality stainless and a high polish - hard to tell from original.
Cost me £638 including delivery, so a comparible price to repro units.
I highly recommend them
Bully
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I believe all dashboards are Walnut, but come in 3 different shades. Originals are American Walnut, which is quite light with few knots. Burr Walnut is a keen replacement, but not original. It is darker with lots of knots and grain showing. Your other alternative is European Walnut, which is somewhere in-between.
Hope that helps
Bully
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Richard,
you are right, and i should have put that the other way round. It's HS6's I'm rebuilding for myself, and H6's I need to sell.
Assuming Gaz has a TR4, it may still work - better drop him a PM I suppose
Cheers
Bully
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I'm rebuilding my TR4A back to original spec, and have replaced the HS6 carbs with H6 brought at Stoneleigh last year.
I still have the HS6 carbs, which I need to sell if you are interested?
They work fine (drove my car for 16 years with them on), and are complete with linkage etc. Was thinking £100 for the pair if you are interested. May also be cheaper to buy a set for rebuild, rather than a rebuilt set with no part exchange.
Contact me if you are interested, and we could meet next weekend.
Bully
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A common blockage spot on all early TR engines is behind No4 cylinder (furthest away from radiator).
Story goes, when people drain the water from the cooling system, they only use the tap at the base of the radiator, and forget about the drain tap towards the rear of the block, under the exhaust manifold. Unfortunately the connection to the block is high up, and this method does not drain anything from the block itself.
Sediment then builds up towards the rear of the block. I had this problem many years ago, and ended up removing the head, and fishing out sidiment between the liner and block with a bent coathanger !!
I would suggest flushing you block first, and seeing what comes out of the block drain hole. Also worth a fish around with the end of a cable tie (quite stiff and flexible) to loosen any sediment.
Cheap and quick to try if nothing else
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Got my TR4A in with Mobley & Engineering based down near Malmesbury. Give them a call on 07787 532007.
Excellent finish and about the cheapest around
Bully
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Just coming up to the paint work in my TR4A rebuild, and had a similar issue. I spent a while at an International looking at cars and taking photos, trying to match interior and paintwork.
I'm not a lover or red sportscars, so that was out for me (sorry guys). I had also thought about something quite different - Ferrari Yellow or Metalic Purple, you may have seen these in magazines or at the show too.
At the end of the day, I went for something traditional. Modern colours just don't suit our cars.
My car was originally conifer green, and a colour I don't care for. When I brought it, it was hand brushed dark red. I've finally chosen to go for Midnight blue, which should show off the chrome well.
i chose a colour I liked. My car has lots of non stardard bits - suspension, engine mods, modern seats etc, so originality was not as issue for me.
Like others, I like your photo, so would not change it.
Hope this helps
Bully
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Chris,
I had a similar problem with my rebuild, and just opted for the rebuilt units on an exchange basis. Quite reasonable, and a lot quicker than having them rebuilt. Also the force required to split then is quite considerable, so you may struggle to find anybody that can do them.
I think the replacement units are also slightly uprated, so well worth the cost.
Better in the long run I think.
Bully
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I have had a similar problem on my TR4A, although not excessive, it did touch the chassis. My solution was to bend the lip of the chassis, and slightly squish the manifold, so they no longer touch, and allow enough room for vibration.
I'm going through a rebuild, so this was before chassis powder coating.
Is it way out, or only just touching?
Bully
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We have quite a few owners in the Glavon group, which isn't too far away.
I have forwarded your message on, and I'll let you know if anybody can make it.
Bully
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My TR4A is undergoing a complete rebuild at the moment, including an engine rebuild. New 86mm pistons and liners, new cam, head skimmed and unleaded added, crank reground, balanced and scroll seal ground off. Pistins, con rods, flywheel and clutch balanced, and flywheel lightened.
All in about 2500, but that includes a lot of parts.
Depends what you want doing and how much you can do yourself
Bully
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Hi Driver,
that was me with the blockage suggestion via a personnal message. Glad it worked out - too me ages to work it out when it happened to me.
take care
Bully
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Driver,
your problem, if I am reading right, may not be one of a head gaskit but an overheating problem?
I had a similar problem many years back with my TR4A, which constantly overheated. I removed the thermostat, and fitted a lenlow fan, but still overheated. I checked the water pump, tested compression and tested the radiator - all were fine.
It turns out I had a blocked waterway behind No 4 cylinder. Over the years, when people had serviced the car, they drain the cooling system through the bottom of the radiator. However, water enters and exits the engine from the top of the block, and unless you use the drain tap on the side of the block as well, the sediment builds up in the block, and normally around the back of no 4 cylinder.
The water at the back of the block cannot move, boils, and returns the way it came in. A clean give away, is although the top of my radiator was overheating, the bottom hose was cold !
I would recommend draining the system through the block to see if you have the same problem. Remove the tap all together from the block, and run a hose into the top of the rad - you should get a good flow out of clean water. Try to dislodge and sediment with something like the end of a cable tie - it's tight in there, so poke it around sideways.
If you are getting nothing, then you have a blocked waterway. You will need to take the head off, and spoon out the sediment.
Worth testing before you try anything else.
regards
Bully
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KJ,
my TR4A is currently being rebuilt in Wiltshire. They are using a "home made" rotisserie, which can be viewed at GLAVONTRS
If you would like to view or get dimensions, why not come down and visit
Bully
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Have finally managed to get around to loading some of my TR4A's rebuild photos on the website.
If you are interested, they can be viewed at www.glavontrs.co.yk, go to the committee page, then down to website manager towards the bottom of the page, where there is a link to Esme's rebuild.
The work is being done by Eric Mobley (Mobley Engineering). Rolling chassis is now complete, and we finished the engine and gearbox off last Sunday, ready for dropping in and starting up.
Bosy is ready for blasting, and should go this week. All thats left to buy is interior and a wiring harness !!
Happy viewing
Bully
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Just doing a similar engine rebuild, and had the same thoughts. Decided to add two 7mm holes instead of the 3 10mm holes.
Should hopefully have it all back together this week, but only time will tell if that is the right call
Bully
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Just had some work done on my TR4A head at Country Engineering (01454 419866).
Surface head - £35
supply & fit 4 ex value seat inserts - £80
machine in valve seats - £12
face in new valves - £6
fit valve guides & hone - £48
I supplied new valves and guides.
Hope this is of some help.
Regards
Bully
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The TR4A rebuild is coming along nicely, rolling chassis all finished, engine should be complete this week, and body off being blasted.
Thoughts are now turning to the interior and wiring.
As I am converting from LHD to RHD, I want to buy a new loom, and it has been suggested a 13 strand core wiring would be better than the original 9 strand wiring. Does anybody have any experience or knowledge where i can buy such an octopus?
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Mike,
I have a 4A which needs a respray. I looked at some local painters who quoted me £8000+, and they weren't Triumph Specialists.
Worcester Classic Cars, and Classic Car Repair and Restoration in Salisbury quoted around the £5000 mark. This was for either:
1. Me driving the car in, them stripping out the interior, and a large chunk of the engine bay (not the engine), wings off, bare metal 2 pack re-spray, putting it all back together, and me picking it up.
or
2. Me stripping out all the interior, and engine bay components. Delivery to workshop on trailer, body off bare metal respray including underside and wings off, back on chassis, wings aligned and me picking up on trailer for fitting out at home.
I like the idea of using someone who knows old TRs, and can do a proper wing alignment. The cheapest I got quoted was £2000 cash for a 2 pack blow over by a guy in Frome.
I'm still saving
Bully
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Hi Gigi,
I fitted a 2500pi overdrive box to a TR4A early in 2005. A friend within the Glavon area rebuilt it for me, using my non-overdrive TR4a box for the input shaft. What I ended up with was a fully reconditioned overdrive box to TR4A spec.
Cost of the 2500pi box was about £125, rebuild items about £150, nothing for labour (thanks Eric).
Where abouts are you in the country?
Bully
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Anybody ever used a company called Classic Car Restoration & Repair based in Salisbury?
I'm thinking about a complete body off respray, and their prices seem reasonable.
I'm going to go down for a look around before I decide, but wondered if anybody has any experience.
Thanks
Bully
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I had a similar problem about 10 years ago.
The rad was blowing steam, although the tempreture gauge and thermo switch for the kenlow were cold.
rad was not blocked, pump was OK.
I was tipped off to try the block drain tap, to see if anything comes out - nothing.
The problem is the water inlet and outlet are at the top of the block. When you change the water, if you only drain the rad, there is still water left in the block. If you don't flush the block, sediment collects, and blocks the waterways, particularly around the No4 cylinder.
If this happens, the water at No4 becomes super heated, and travels the shortest route out, back through the water pump to the top of the rad, and out of the cap. The rest of the system remains cold.
I suggest you try the drain tap in the block - even remove it. If no water flow, you probably have a similar problem.
You need to remove the head, and dig out the crud using a bent peice of wire.
I hope that helps.
e-mail me if you need more info.
Regards Bully
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Hi Chris,
I converted my TR4A to an A type overdrive earlier this year. I managed to buy a Triumph 2000 overdive gearbox for £125. Then Eric from Glavon rebuilt it for me using my TR4A non overdrive for parts (particularly the input shaft which is 1.25" instead of the saloon 1" diameter), to make a TR4A overdrive gearbox.
Cost about another £150 in parts and materials, but for under £300 I had a TR4A spec overdrive gearbox, fully rebuilt.
I also took the opportunity to lighten the flywheel (what a difference), and replace the clutch.
Cheers
Bully
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Address is mgcentre.co.uk
They advertise through ebay, and most people who use them seem happy.
It's the price that makes me worry, are they too cheap, hense the question if anybody has used them before?
I understand they may be at the international this weekend.
Bully
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Bumper Blades
in TR4/4A Forum
Posted
Hi Alan,
you're right, I haven't fitted them yet, but compared to my original bumper, fit would not appear a problem.
Will let you know how it goes.
Bully