Bully
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Posts posted by Bully
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I need a bit of help with my TR4a. Back in May, my temperature gauge and fuel gauge stopped working. I also started overheating, and more recently my overdrive has been slow to engage.
I started with the gauges, which were receiving no power. It seems to have broken a wire, so I ran in a new power wire, which has restored working gauges.
The overheating is proving more problematic. I have replaced the rad cap and the thermostat, but the temperature gauge still reads off the gauge, way hotter than normal. This is odd as the radiator is not blowing through the new cap, and the Kenton fan is not kicking in. I can see the pump is working with the cap off.
I initially thought the temperature gauge is over reading, but is this unusual? Have I missed something when I ran the new live feed to the gauges? I don't think the fuel gauge over reads. I'm also using a alternator, so will that cause over reading.
Or is there a problem with the cooling system, perhaps a blocked waterway or blown head gasket? No sign of oil in the water.
Finally there is the slow engagement of the overdrive. Works ok when cold or cool, but becomes sluggish when hot. This makes me think it's an overheating problem rather than a gauge electrical problem.
Any thoughts or comments welcome.
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Hi Scott,
I had a similar problem last year in my Tr4A. Turned out to be a split HT cable hidden with the Distributer Cap. Took me 18 months to find.
Sounds electrical to me. My suggestion would be to swap parts with a fellow enthusiast to narrow down where the fault is. Don't rule out anything which seems too simple.
Good luck
Bully
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Well that diagnosis was wrong. Went on a 100 mile tour with the guys from Glavon today and the problem was back, so I guess we can rule out the electronic ignition.
However, we swapped the cap, ht leads and rotor, and that seemed to cure it.
Will need a little more investigation.
When I swapped the distributor cap last year, I didn't cut off the last end of each HT lead, so when fitted to the cap, a second hole was made to form a connection. I wonder if the old hole(s) are therefore shorting out and causing a misfire?
Going to re-terminate each lead and see if that was the cause.
Watch this space.........
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It was the electronic ignition. Just replaced the Pertronix sensor with a known good one, and all is well again.
Thanks everybody for your help and suggestions. After scouring the Internet it would appear there can be numerous caused and remedies on all sorts of makes and models, so I'm just glad it didn't take me too long to solve mine
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Many thanks guys, this is all great stuff.
Misfire under load, and when hot, happens at all rev ranges. I can change gear, but problem persists.
Coil, rotor and cap all from distributor doctor, so don't see any issues there.
K&Ns were cleaned last year, not sure when was the last time I checked the dash pots.
Think tomorrow I will clean and check all the simple stuff, plugs, HT leads, cap, rotor, coil, dash pots, K&Ns, timing etc.
If that fails, then it may be change back to points.
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Hi Alan, yes, ease off the throttle when under load, and the misfire goes away.
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Thanks guys.
Forgot to add I replaced the coil, rotor, cap and plugs, so have also ruled them out.
Looks like back to points I go.
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Hi guys, looking for some help with my 1966 TR4a, which has developed a misfire when hot and under load.
The car underwent a rebuild about 6 years ago, including a full engine rebuild. All the water ways are like new, twin SUs, K&Ns, unleaded, 4-2-1 exhaust, thin belt conversion, lightened and balanced, Kenlowe fan, slightly bigger bore and Pistons, and electronic ignition.
All ran fine for the first 5000 miles, but over the last year, she has started to misfire when hot. Hot being above normal operating temperature, but below the temperature for the Kenlowe to cut in.
The misfire only happens when under load, either pulling away or going uphill, she will run fine on the flat at a steady speed.
I originally though it was fuel vaporisation, but have since ruled that out as we are operating below the Kenlowe kick in temperature.
I'm coming around to thinking its electrics, and possibly the electronic ignition.
Before I rip it all out and go back to points, does anybody else have any experience or suggestions as to the cause and possible rectification.
Cheers
Bully
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Does anybody know of, or can recommend a company to recondition period chrome static type seat belts?
I need the clasps reconditioned (maybe need a new pin), and some coloured new webbing?
Grateful for any suggestions.
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I have a TR4A reg no PYY45D, so I can't be too far from me - I'll have a look in the garage next door for you :0)
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I had a similar problem many years ago, which eventully resulted in my TR4A constantly overheating. Turned out to be a blockage between the No 4 cylinder (nearest the battery)
My understanding goes that when you change the coolent, you need to drain the radiator, and also the engine block. Over the years, it would appear that most people only use the drain plug under the radiator, so sediment builds up in the block. With forward motion, this sediment goes to the back of the engine, and blocks the water ways.
I fould I could actually take the drain tap out of the engine block, and no water would come out even when full.
To get me running again, I removed the cyclinder head, and manuafactuered a small spoon out of a long thin rod, and scooped out the ****.
A couple of years ago, I did a full rebuild, and made particular attention to clearing this area.
Remember to always drain both the block and radiator when changing the coolent.
Cheers
Bully
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Hi there,
I think I was one of the first to order these stainless steel bumpers, and fitted them about 4 years ago. No scratches so far, and still a nice shine. Can't see me going back to Chrome somehow.
I'm in Malmesbury if you fancy a drive down someday, not too far.
Bully
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Hi Paul,I brought my TR4A way back in 1994, and drove it for ages. 5 years ago, I asked a friend to rebuild it for me. I made a long list of everything I wanted to do, body off respray, engine rebuild, suspension upgrade, brakes upgrade, leather interior, chasis blast and powder coat, the works.Cost me £20K, and the car is valued at £25K.The money is immaterial, as is the value. I have no intention of selling.If you fancy a drive out one day, come down to Gloucestershire and a Glavon meet, and I will show you the car and introduce you to Eric Mobley who did the rebuild.There are some photos too on the, so have a look.CheersBully
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Hi Westy,
only a trickle from the drain tap does imply a blockage behind No4 cylinder (nearest the bettery).
Take the tap out, and feed the thin end of a cable tie in at an angle towards the battery and have a rummage around. The cable tie is stiff enough to move some sediment, but not hard enough to do any damage. If you get a good flow, then keep flushing and you may be lucky.
If you can't get a good flow, then i would recommend taking the head off and digging it out to get a good flow.
Cheers
Bully
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I had an overheating problem many years ago in my TR4A. It turned out to be a blockage in the water ways between No4 cylinder and the block.
It would appear that over the years, people have drained the water out of the engine just by using the valve on the bottom of the radiator, and ignoring the tap on the block just above the starter motor. This leaves a lot of water and sediment in the block. When you drive along, this sediment gets pushed behind No4 cylinder, and eventually blocks the waterways.
One test is to open the tap in the block to see there is good flow out. if not, then this is a sign of blockage.
Another test, is to see that when the engine is overheating, is the bottom hose cold? As the water can't circulate, it superheats, and comes back past the water pump (even thought it is good and working well), and blows out of the radiator cap.
To solve the problem, take off the cylinder head, bend a thin wire to form a spoon, and dig out the rubbish behind No 4 cylinder. Be careful not to disturb the cylinders in their seals.
Good luck
Bully
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Hi Ben, I'm quite close to you, I'm in malmesbury and run the glavon website. Why not come along to one of our meets. Next one is tomorrow night at 8pm Hunters Hall between Dursley and Tetbury. Other dates are on the website www.glavontrs.co.uk
I have a Tr4a with photos on the website, happy to take you for a ride sometime
Bully
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I like the bumpers.
I am considering them myself. I also noticed your Cosmic wheels. I have always wanted to put Cosmics on my 4A. When they are refurbished they look ..well ..Cosmic!
TT
Came across the Cosmics at the international a few years back. Rob Harber has some on his TR3 in the Glavon group, and they look good. I like the fact they are a period accessory, and quite rare on TRs. I'm having them painted in body colour, with raised "spokes" and rims in polished alloy.
I hope to have the car back in time for Goodwood next month, although the wheels may follow at a later date, as they will be quite complex to do.
Thanks for all the compliments guys
Bully
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Bully, are those CTM brackets you have for your rear dampers? I recommend putting some nylocs on the mounting bolts (brackets to chassis), I had a couple of bolts come loose which caused the bottom mount to fret and eventually break the bracket.
Great looking job by the way. Is it Triumph Royal Blue or another blue?
andy
Hi Andy,
the brackets are made by Mobley Engineering, and are similar to most by other manufacturers, but much better weding, and made of 2 plates rather than 6 or so welded together, so should be much stronger (and a lot cheaper). Thanks for the tip of nyloc nuts, will do
The colour is midnight blue, which i think is the same as Royal blue - it looks almost black indoors, but should show off the chrome well
Bully
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Hi Tim,
I brought some for my TR4A about 3 months back. The fit and finish is excellent.
Not sure how the TR6 fits, but the TR4A has oval holes, and these didn't come out when my bumpers were pressed, so a bit of fettling with a needle file was needed.
Secondly, if you run your finger along the edge, you can tell it has been pressed out, although you can't actually see that by eye.
I love 'em, and recommend them.
here
Bully
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Would you believe that is actually Midnight Blue rather than black. Thought the outdoor photos would show the colour better, but obviously not !! You'll just have to see it in the flesh I suppose.
Every rebuild needs lots of lubrication :0)
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Hi Stuart,
the fit looks good compared to an original bumper. We're still finishing the boot lid, so not sure of opening gap etc, but don't expect it to be a problem.
The bumpers are obviously pressed out and if you run your finger along the edge, you can feel a slight undulation, although you can't actually see it. The holes are also pressed out before the bumper is shaped, so need a bit of fettling with a needle file to fit the bolts.
Bully
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It's been a while since i last posted anything about my rebuild, but i have now updated the website so please have a look.
Click here!
Click on any photo for an enlargement.
I hope to have her finished for the international, so fingers crossed.
You will also see some pictures of the new Stainless Steel bumpers I purchased a couple of months ago - similar to the cost of replacement units, and far superior.
Cheers
Bully
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Well, finally got around to fitting the Harrington Stainless Steel bumpers yesterday to my TR4A. It's hard to tell the difference between the chromed fixing bolt head and the stainless steel bumper. Over riders are good too.
Fit is very good, holes in the right place etc.
A few points though:
1. the fixing holes are a little small, and will require filing larger and to shape to accept the fixing bolts,
2. if you run your finger along the edge of the blade, you can tell it is cut, but this is hard to spot by eye
3. the rear bumper has no captivated nuts.
I'm still very impressed, and would recommend them.
Will try to upload some photos next week
Bully
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James,
you may also wish to consider the new Stainless Steel bumpers from Harrington Group. Just brought a pair for my TR4A, including ovcer riders for £638 including delivery. Really good finish, hard to tell from original, plus being S/S they won't rust. Follow the bumper blade topic under the TR4/4A thread.
Cheers
Bully
Overheating issues
in TR4/4A Forum
Posted
Hi Rob, do you know where the voltage stabiliser is on a TR4a? If it was part of the control box, that was removed when I converted from dynamo to alternator about 10 years ago. So why hasn't it over read during that time? Perhaps there is one hidden under the dash?