matt george
-
Content Count
185 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Posts posted by matt george
-
-
Ok, thanks. I will have a look later
-
Robin, in answer to your questions..
1 - Yes it's in the car. I've tried opening the bonnet and revving up, but nothing seems particularly out of the ordinary there.
3 - Not the heater fan no, that was the first thing I made sure was switched off.
4 - It very much gets faster and more obvious in tune with the engine revs.
5 - It's difficult to really tell. The noise is more apparent when you are in gear, but I think it does also do it when in neutral. Need to look into this a bit more though.
6 - All that has been fitted since I last used it is an electronic ignition set.
Peejay - forgive my ignorance, but where do I check for the tacho cable making contact? Beneath the gearbox tunnel or under the dash?
Thanks,
Matt
-
Hi guys,
I woke my TR6 from it's winter slumber this weekend, and thankfully it seems in decent fettle, apart from a strange noise that I don't remember it having before I put it away.
Basically under acceleration you get what can only be described as a whirring, or even whizzing noise, bizarre as it sounds, coming from the passengers footwell ish area. Driving down the A1 yesterday, the noise wasn't so noticeable at full chat, say 70/80mph or so, but became really obvious when I slowed down a bit.
Easing off to go through 50 zones, and playing at coming off and on the throttle, the noise became very obvious, more so when I would go back on the power.
My father has suggested it could be the MU being noisy, but like I said, I really don't remember it making that noise previously. I'm also wondering whether it could be clutch related, or something within the gearbox etc?? Other than that the car still performs very well!
Any thoughs or ideas would be most welcome..
Cheers,
Matt
-
Hi Matt,
There are plenty of meets going on this year, with Harrogate being the big one, as mentioned above. Another good event is the Lakes Tour, which takes place in September, and is obviously in your neck of the woods
Matt
-
Hi Matt,
Good name, and good colour choice. Snap!
Cheers,
Matt
-
Andy, that's another good point. Unfortunately I can't have a look at the car to check tyres, as it's currently sat 120 miles away from me in Bradford
I believe they are standard profile however. They seem to fill the arches pretty well anyway.
Cheers,
Matt
-
Lowering must be accompanied by stiffening the springs to absolutely avoid bottoming ( ie suspension movement going solid against the bump stop in a bend ). In a bend, once a corner bottoms all the cornering force goes onto that one tyre, usually outer rear. Result: a very fast, sudden, uncontrollable spin the likes of which you would not want to experience a second time.
So no chopping an inch of standard springs please!
I found a rear anti-roll bar was necessary too.
Peter, I absolutely agree, cut springs are for cowboys. If I do this, it will be done properly. I had a VW Transporter van of all things, that had been lowered 40mm - same amount of coils, just wound tighter, compressed etc - that worked really well. Certainly cornered like no other van I've ever driven anyway! I'd assume that any springs to go on a TR would work much the same way. More research needed methinks...
Cheers,
Matt
-
I agree Robin, I think the look is fabulous. Though that said, it may be the 'lose the bumper, but keep the chin spoiler' element that's pushing my buttons. I think some messing about with that side of the car is in order first, before I jump into doing the suspension. Like you mention, I think it rides pretty well already, so not rushing to change that really,
Matt
-
Hi Matt,
1" drop in ride height makes one heck of a difference to ground clearance - means you have to be very cautious even with just a driver on board, 2 up and luggage and speed bumps can become a terminal obstruction, and the suspension all too soon runs out of travel at speed.
I went through this routine back in the 70s, lowering the car worked well enough on the track, on the road it was a liability even then - before speed bumps and potholes were as common a hazard as they are today ! As the car was more often used loaded than not, I finished up raising the front 1/2" and the back 1", with 20% stiffer than standard springs . . . . which distinctly improved laden handling over factory issue.
Cosmetic appearance isn't everything . . . .
Cheers,
Alec
Alec,
That's a very good point, as I expect I'll be fairly laden on the way to events etc. So yes, may have to leave as is for now..
Cheers,
Matt
-
Interesting point Harry. Surely a 1 inch drop wouldn't make that much of a difference though? There is an incline into the lock-up where I keep my '6 actually, so worth bearing in mind. The main reason I'm considering lowering is that I'm thinking about de-bumpering and just think it would all marry up better with less of a gap between wheels/wheelarch etc?
Cheers,
Matt
-
Hi guys,
I spotted the attached '6 for sale at Classic Marques, and I really like the stance/ride height. According to their blurb, this is achieved with 1 inch lowering springs. I'd like to do something similar with my car.My question is then, has anybody on here done similar? I'm assuming yes, so is it easy to do, is it easily done just by changing to uprated springs, or do the dampers need changing too? Particular makes or kits would be good. Opinions much appreciated
Cheers,
Matt
-
Bit of a thread drift. Does anybody have particular cams to recommend then? Taking into account use with an engine on HS6s rather than PI?
-
Hi guys,
I'm building up a 2500 engine, actually to go in my 2000, but that's not the real point. I'm thinking about getting a new cam from Piper, either the Mild Road or Fast Road examples, but would like to hear other people's opinions on them before committing to buy. Are they good/bad/indifferent?
The engine is shaping up to feature a long branch inlet manifold with twin HS6 SU's, a 6-3-1 exhaust manifold and full sports system, plus a lightened flywheel, so I suppose other suggestions of a good cam to go with this would also be good. I'm not looking for anything too wild as the 2000 is basically my daily driver for when the TR is hibernating, but I'm thinking a fast road item would be ok?
I look forward to hearing what people have to say
Thanks,
Matt
-
Well I'm with you on that one Alec
Just wanted to reassure people that their car will be coming back in one piece though!
Thanks,
Matt
-
Just to reassure people further, I have an excerpt of a recent email from the journalist who's looking to borrow a car, which goes as follows -
The only model that's still outstanding is the TR3 - coincidentally the one I'm
supposed to find. Location is no problem, and I'm willing to resort to
all sorts of bribery. It's probably worth pointing out to owners that
no thrashing will be involved at any stage, that I'm insured to the
teeth and that I have a high degree of mechanical sympathy (unless
it's a Saab, an Allegro or an assimilation of the two).
Any help from within the TR world will be very, very much appreciated.
I'm starting to get faintly worried. Sam
He can be contacted at: sam@samgloverlimited.com if you're interested in helping out, though thankfully a few people have already come forward to show willing
-
Thanks Alec. Yes, to reassure those of you who may be considering putting yourselves forward, your car will obviously be covered liability-wise by the might of Bauer Publishing during the time it would be away. It may even be a possiblity that you can join in the fun yourself. But for other commitments, I'd be going along in my own TR6, but that wasn't to be in the end.
I agree completely that not everybody in the magazine game can be held in the same regard when it comes to things like this, but having worked with the chaps in question for a number of years, I will happily vouch for them as being good eggs.
I'm starting to wish I hadn't bothered trying to help out now, but there you go, you live and learn.
Cheers,
Matt
-
Hi Peter. Thanks for your more considered response. I'd guess that the feature will be going in the December or January issue, given that PC tends to get things lined up a couple of months ahead. I can't really give away much more than that, but what they've got planned sounds good to me.
Like I said, I've simply been asked to gauge interest within the Register, as I'm well known amongst my colleagues for being something of a Triumph man. And as I also said, the car in question will obviously be treated with due care and attention. The classic car mags such as these generally rely on the kindness of enthusiasts to help out with sourcing cars to use and feature, otherwise they just couldn't do what they do. Most people are happy to help out, but I'm sorry if others seem to find that offensive.
Cheers anyway,
Matt
-
Evening all. An erstwhile colleague of mine, the eminent motoring scribe that is one Sam Glover, is in need of a TR3 for a planned Practical Classics feature. I've been asked to put the word out among the Register fraternity, so my question is this - does anyone out there have a car that they would be willing to lend out for a few days?
As far as I know, the feature will be taking place in mid-Wales, on the 25th and 26th of October, and obviously your car will be looked after with the car and attention it deserves, as well as gaining the kudos that comes from being a feature vehicle.
If anyone thinks they can help, please either reply or PM me on here, or email me at: matthew.george@classiccarweekly.co.uk. I'll then pass on your details to Sam.
Thanks in anticipation,
Matt
Strange noises below..
in TR6 Forum
Posted
Had a proper look into this earlier, Plugged a bit of sponge below the tacho cable as it comes through the bulkhead. The cable is also very tight to the bodywork under the bonnet, so put a larger bit of sponge beneath it there too.
Took the car out for a spin, and the noise seems to have gone away. So at least I think I've found the problem. Driving down to Bristol tomorrow, so have taken the sponge out from under the bonnet, just to be safe. Perhaps a larger piece of pipe cut to fit around the cable instead might work? Or can I get away with the sponge under the bonnet?
Thanks,
Matt