matt george
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Posts posted by matt george
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Hi all,
Just a quick update - rad is now on the way to Boston Radiators local to me. Going to cost £130, with a quick turnaround promised, so hopefully have the car up and running again soon!
Thanks for all your suggestions anyway.
Matt
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I'm pretty sure it's the radiator. With the engine running, it was bubbling up from the bottom. Now it's out, will probably look to recore it and then replace the hoses as a matter of course, hopefully meaning I'll be good for a long time after that.
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Thanks chaps. Any other suggestions as to companies to get it recored with?
Cheers,
Matt
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Hi guys,
I'm hoping that as ever this forum can help with an issue on my TR6. Last week the radiator sprung a leak, luckily just as I was parking up in the garage. Temp gauge was normal, car showing no signs of problematic overheating etc, so think I'm ok on that score.
However I pulled the radiator out today, and it's looking like my original hope of getting it patched up may be slightly wishful thinking. It looks fairly beaten up and is very crusty along the bottom - it is possibly even the original unit still - but wondered what others think. I've attached a pic so suggestions as to whether it looks well and truly goosed are welcome!
I've also got a few questions regarding sourcing a new unit. I've had a quick scout around, and they seem to be anywhere between £200-300 depending on supplier. Also, it appears there were two types used during production, and typically, I need the earlier and more expensive variant! But is there much difference between them?
Can anyone also recommend a decent specialist who could either repair or recore my unit, preferably near my base in Peterborough?
Finally, if all else fails, has anyone got a decent secondhand radiator they'd be willing to sell?
Thanks in anticipation,
Matt
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Matt,
Ii think Nick is refering to Euro car parts, alternatively if you go to any Bosch dealer with the part, they will order one for about the same price, I paid £117 for one last year.
Regards
Tom
Tom,
Thanks for the info. When buying the pump separately, what else did you need to source to get the whole lot fitted and up and running in the car? And what exact Bosch part number do I need to look out for?
Obviously there are many different to choose from, and my main worry with potentially buying one separately rather than in a kit is that I'll end up with one that is wrong/plain unsuitable!
Cheers,
Matt
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phoned the usual and getting quotes of 250 plus, called euros and its 125 all in,can anyone beat that price?
regards nick.
Hi Nick,
Where exactly did you call for the price of £125? I'm looking to put a Bosch pump on my car, and that price is a lot lower than the usual suspects want to charge!
Cheers,
Matt
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Hi Terry,
I replaced the battery on my TR6 with a HB072 from Halfords - http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_264187_langId_-1_categoryId_165762#tab1
It gives 510 amps startup, compared to the 250amps of the weedy version that was fitted previously, so the car now cranks over a lot quicker!
Cheers,
Matt
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I don't know of a source for the parts, and I'd reckon it will be down to examining someone else's complete top and improvising something to do the job. Not the end of the world, but it will take time and effort, and I'd suggest only worth doing if you are going to use the car regularly and leave to lid in place for the whole winter.
Cheers,
Alec
Well to be honest, I may well end up doing just that. To put things into context, I've just sold my daily-driver Golf GTI, ostensibly to raise funds for getting my 2000 back on the road. Thing is though, that isn't looking likely to happen anytime soon, leaving me with only the TR to drive.
If I had a fully functioning hard top, then I would most likely get it on there and leave it until probably March next year at least. The car is well undersealed, and I only go 3 miles each way to work, so wouldn't be too much of a worry.
I do know someone who has a hard top for their car, although it isn't currently fitted, so should be able to asses exactly what is needed in the way of fittings. I might offer the guy a ton as you say, though I can't see him dropping that much, but you never know!
Cheers,
Matt
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Seller has come back to me. Apparently he has no fitting bits to go with the top. I've tried looking on Moss and Rimmers for a kit, but most of the bits required seem to be NLA. Does anybody know of a place to source the bits needed? Or have any for sale themselves?
I only ask, as my car is white, so a black top would complement it quite well I think. But as Alec pointed out, it is starting to look like bagging a factory top could end up being a whole load of faff and expense.
I've seen the Honeybourne one, while Rimmers also offer a Lenham-style top, but have no idea whether they are any good or not. As far as I know, non-factory examples require removal of the hood and frame to fit them, which is obviously not ideal either.
Matt
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Cheers guys. I've asked the guy a few questions regarding fixtures and fittings, so we'll see what happens.
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This is Steve Cooper's car, and is indeed a decent example, especially at the current price. A bargain for someone methinks!
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Hi guys,
For a variety of reasons, it is looking like my TR6 might see a bit of use through winter. The hood fit isn't great, so I've been looking at various hardtop options.
Found this one on ebay - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRIUMPH-TR6-HARDTOP-FACTORY-OPTIONAL-EXTRA-/110739654990?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item19c899094e&autorefresh=true#ht_500wt_1156
It looks ok, but i think £500 is more than a bit steep. I'd be more inclined to offer £200/250? Especially given the condition of this one which made £400 and looks damn near mint - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/triumph-tr6-hardtop-roof-red-mint-condition-/250861982282?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3a688a124a#ht_500wt_1156
I may be wrong though, so any advice would be appreciated.
Cheers,
Matt
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Mike,
My father has MX5 seats in his car. As mentioned above, they are very comfortable. They do mean I sit slightly higher up than I would like, but being 6'5" I suppose that is to be expected.
Cheers,
Matt
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Roy,
And from me.
Cheers,
Matt
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There was a long post on this very topic a month or so back - IIRC it was guage at fault
Hi Tim,
I believe Peter is referring to my previous post, and yes, the gauge does seem to have been the fault all along. After fitting a replacement I'm now getting pressure readings that don't make me want to worry
I would suggest trying a different one and seeing what that reads. If doing that doesn't make a difference then as Nick says, try replacing the pressure relief valve on the side of the block.
Cheers,
Matt
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Hi Tim,
I've recently had a very similar problem on my car, and the thread I started about it has lots of helpful suggestions from other people as to what the problem might be.
What it turned out to be though was a faulty oil pressure gauge, so have you tried a different one?
Cheers,
Matt
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Ok guys,
Finally had time for a proper look at the car today, so here is the long awaited update.
Long story short, the original oil gauge was definitely reading incorrectly - it was subsequently swapped for a replacement.
New readings are now 70psi at idle when cold, dropping quite quickly, ending up around 35 when good and warmed up. Once warm and working hard the reading now tops out at 70psi at around 4000rpm. So after all it seems that there isn't really anything wrong with my engine, it's just nice and healthy (fingers crossed!). Admittedly I may have got myself a bit more worried than need be originally, but never mind!
Thank you to all who offered opinions earlier, as your ideas were much appreciated and came in very handy
Cheers,
Matt
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Neil, as far as I know, it doesn't have an uprated oil pump fitted, but I don't have any history to back up this assumption either way. When I bought the replacement spring I made sure to get the standard, non-uprated-version, so that should be ok.
Going to take it out again and see if there is sludge in the bore though. Cutting the spring down slightly was suggested earlier up the thread - is this to be generally recommended?
Flushing oil may well be a good option to try. Having not noticed a difference in pressure after changing the oil filter, then a build up of crud within may be a possibility.
Will also try getting the oil extra good and hot and then checking readings more carefully after that. Whatever happens, I've run out of time to get the car to a point where I'm happy to take it away this weekend, so passengering I shall be.
Slightly frustrating, but much more preferable to causing some damage if there is a problem within!
Cheers,
Matt
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Possibly the one key bit of info you have missed is - what were the pressures previously during normal running when the engine was hot and you didn't have a problem?
andy
Andy,
The pressures were always pretty high I believe. It is only lately I've been made aware that perhaps they shouldn't be quite so excessive. My fathers TR6 idles at 25-30psi when warm, hitting 50-60psi when working hard for example, which is a very different set of readings.
My car has always run well enough, but now I'm fretting that perhaps something isn't quite right.
Matt
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Hi all,
Thanks for the responses. To answer the many questions posed then:-
1. No, I don't have an oil cooler
2. Nothing has been done to the engine since buying the car last year, other than fitting an electronic ignition kit.
3. The initial readings I posted yesterday were from a not quite warmed up engine, but even after going out to get a drive to warm things up, the pressure only drops of very slightly.
4. Yes, the pressure was the same before doing an oil change.
5. If you were referring to the oil filter, no I don't believe it was spring loaded in the middle.
6. Yes, along with the oil presssure relief valve and spring, I did change the washer on the big nut.
Oil used is Morris 20/50 by the way. Any more suggestions very much welcome. I shan't be taking the car this weekend, not worth the risk when I'm not sure what on earth is going on. Will be sharing a friend's Spitfire instead!
Cheers,
Matt
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Matt
Check the spring length,do you have the right oil filter fitted?
Neil,
The new spring looked to be the same length as the old one, so hopefully it is right. I've also changed the oil recently, as I thought that being a bit over-full may be making the problem worse, but apparently not so much. I replaced the standard spin on filter that was on with one of the larger capacity spin on versions you can get, but the pressure remains high.
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Matt
Check the spring length,do you have the right oil filter fitted?
Neil,
The new spring looked to be the same length as the old one, so hopefully it is right. I've also changed the oil recently, as I thought that being a bit over-full may be making the problem worse, but apparently not so much. I replaced the standard spin on filter that was on with one of the larger capacity spin on versions you can get, but the pressure remains high.
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Hi all,
I'm hoping someone might be shed some light on an oil pressure problem I'm having with my TR6, namely that it seems to have way too much oil pressure. The OP gauge has lately been reading 70psi on start up/idle, rising up towards 100psi when really pressing on. I thought the gauge itself may be at fault at first, but having plugged another one into the block tonight, event that reads 50 psi at idle, rising towards 90 when revving hard.
I also thought that the oil pressure relief valve may be at fault, not breathing enough due to the valve being stuck/bunged up, but having fitted a new valve and spring the gauge readings are the same.
Most worrying is the fact that oil is being forced out from around the rocker cover bolts and the bottom of the distributor, again suggesting too much pressure within. I'm now very disheartened and hugely concerned as to what the problem may be, so has anyone got any ideas please?
More frustratingly, I'd planned to attend the TR Yoof Weekender in the car this coming Friday, but am now very uncertain as to whether this is a good idea or not. I really don't want to blunder on and end up blowing a gasket or making things much worse, so hopefully someone can help?
Thanks in anticipation,
Matt
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Hi Alec,
There is actually a grommet in the bulkhead hole, as there should be. I'm thinking it might be the cable vibrating under the bonnet against the side of the bulkhead/passenger footwell that is the real problem.
I've taken the sponge away from that point, so will see tomorrow if the noise comes back. It's not that intrusive really, it was more of a worry not knowing what the problem might be, so can cope with it for now. Just need to have more of a think about how to solve it going forward!
Cheers,
Matt
Looking for larger alloys
in TR6 Forum
Posted
Hi Murray,
Your car looks great as it is. For what it's worth, I don't think the BBS-style wheels are going to do anything for it really, though I'll be interested to see what a '6 looks like rolling on them. I do like BBS wheels, I've had a few Golf GTIs, and that era of car look great on them.
Also fairly dubious as to what 17 inch wheels with 205 wide tyres will do to the handling and ride - though I'm sure there are others more qualified to comment in this regard than me - but as you say, each to their own![:)]()
All the best,
Matt