matt george
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Posts posted by matt george
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That Sapphire one looks decent. And I do love Cosmics
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Had the same problem on my old TR6. Replaced the speedo cable and, bingo, nice steady reading at all times.
Matt
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Hi Tim,
Revotec kit listed on the below link uses a 14" fan, so that size should do you.
Cheers,
Matt
www.revotec.com/acatalog/Triumph_TR2_Cooling_Kits.html
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Hi Mark,
I'm 6'6" and struggled to drive a '6 with the standard, non-dished wheel. Really got in the way of my left leg when trying to downshift quickly on a twisty road, not fun.
I ultimately went for a dished Moto-Lita woodrim, which gave me the required legroom, although it was cosy, as Andrew mentioned.
Cheers,
Matt
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Used County pistons when we rebuilt my 2500 motor two years ago. 10,000 miles later and they (or the engine) haven't given any problems yet.
Matt
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Interesting thread. PM'd you Mick regards the bump steer article.
Cheers,
Matt
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219016 has a different shape to the inlet valve throat and smaller exhaust valves. According to Chris Witor, the inlet side has the highest flow of any of the 6 cylinder heads in standard form. It is also thicker than most of the other heads, giving a lower CR, so needs a skim in most applications.
Nick
Good point Nick – I should have mentioned that when we rebuilt the engine for my car, the head was skimmed to 3.430in, down from the standard 3.475in, on the advice of Mr Witor.
Matt
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As Dennis mentioned, a whole world of technical information here - http://www.chriswitor.com/technical.php
Got the 219016 on my car and it does the job
Matt
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I used RHP bearings and competition synchro rings in my 'box, as offered by TR Enterprises. Very happy with the results. Same part numbers are available through Moss, but a tad more expensive.
Matt
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http://www.bmh-ltd.com/tr6parts.htm
Doesn't look like entire bodyshells are available just now.
Cheers,
Matt
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Hi Tim,
For the Spa trip last year I bought a GB sticker intended for a motorcycle, plain black font over white oval job. Principal reason being it was a lot smaller than the car ones offered, meaning it would fit nicely on the rear panel above the nearside lamp unit. Looks pretty good too, nice and subtle.
Cheers,
Matt
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I have 185/65 on my car, they were on it when I bought it. As mentioned above, they don't quite fill the arches, but otherwise I've always found the handling fine.
Certainly worth trying them if they're free I'd say!
Cheers,
Matt
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Will,
The oil and filter you've selected should be fine. I've checked my service book, and it suggests 5.1 litres will be required if you drain the sump and change the filter.
However I've never had to put that much in in one go. Usually I fill up with about 4 litres, let the oil settle, check the dipstick and then keep doing smaller fills until it's sufficiently full.
Probably worth you buying two bottles of oil, then at least you'll have a surplus for future top ups.
If you haven't got one already, you'll be wanting to get hold of a workshop manual, as that should also prove useful when servicing the car etc. Fw potentials below:
Matt
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Hi Will,
You want a good quality 20/50 oil. I use Valvoline VR1, bought when it was on offer at Euro Car Parts, but no doubt other people will also be along with some good suggestions as to brands.
Some thoughts here too. http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/38132-oil-confusion/
Do you have the standard filter or a spin on? If not, then you definitely want to upgrade to a spin on. The following link lists all sorts of filters that are suitable.
http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/38206-oil-filter/
Hope this helps,
Matt
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Guys,
Here is the Webcon kit - http://www.johnpaulding.com/images/stories/pdf/PDF_June_2012/Webcon_TR6_Throttle_Bodies.pdf
Matt
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Hi Jim,
I recently had a similar query regards wheel studs. I fitted a set of Cosmics, which needed a 6mm spacer to clear the wishbone. Nuts seemed tight enough to me, but checked with my local tyre depot to make sure. They said that to be deemed safe, the wheel nut needs to make at least 6 full turns before beginning to tighten up. With 6mm spacers I can get 7 full turns before they start to tighten, which made me feel a bit better, though I may look for longer studs in the future.
With all this in mind, I'd expect you to be ok using 3mm spacers without extra long studs. Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Matt
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Hi Derek,
Thank you for both your posting here and related email. Think I will have a go fitting the front wheels without spacers and see what clearance issues arise from that - reading various old posts on the forum, it seems that problems vary simply from car to car. Plenty of food for thought anyway, so thanks to all who offered their opinion.
Cheers,
Matt
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Cheers Chris - Exactly what I wanted to hear
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Neil,
Thanks, I'll give that a try.
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Neil,
Thanks for the input. Forgive my ignorance in these matters, but guessing then that the steel nuts could potentially cut into the softer alloy of the wheels when I'm tightening the nuts up? So a switch to different nuts would be recommended?
Matt
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Hello all,
Today I finally fitted my refurbed cosmics to my TR6. In order to clear the front wishbones, I used 6mm spacers on the front hubs.
I've currently got the wheels fitted with the original wheel nuts as used in conjunction with steel wheels, but would be interested to know whether this is to be recommended in the long term?
I went for a 10 mile or so test run after fitting the new wheels, and everything seemed fine - well all four wheels are still on at least! I'm just paranoid as to whether the front studs still have enough thread left when spacers are used.
Would be very useful to hear from anyone else who runs Cosmics, or may be able to shed more light on the situation please?
Thanks,
Matt
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Hi all,
In the same vein as Sarajit's query, I have a set of Cosmic Mark 2 alloys, so does anyone know if they also need longer stud/different nuts/spacers?
Thanks in advance,
Matt
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Heres a link to the BMW TR6 on ebay that is on BBS wheels. I think they look quite good on it.
http://cgi.ebay.com/...em=330719010722
True, they do look pretty good. I'll look forward to seeing how they look on Murray's car then.
Cheers,
Matt
Best spark plugs for TR6 CR?
in TR6 Forum
Posted
As mentioned, NGK BP6 ES, just make sure you get Japanese-made ones rather than French-made, on grounds of quality.