matt george
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Posts posted by matt george
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Type 015 is what I have on my '6. Tiny compared to a modern battery, but no problem yet in five years of use.
Matt
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As has been touched upon, you'll only really get a noticeable increase in power if you modify/upgrade other elements of the system, particularly the cylinder head. If you just put a PI cam in an otherwise standard car, you'll be wasting the cam's potential and/or won't see a huge increase in power.
Not sure what a PI cam in a standard US-spec engine would do to the drivability either.
Matt
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I've got an ex-US TR6 running a TR5 cam and twin HS6s, it's absolutely brilliant and more than happy running such a cam. Obviously the head has been worked on, higher compression etc, plus long branch inlet manifold, extractor exhaust manifold and 2.25in Phoenix exhaust system, all of which together allow for plenty of extra performance.
The rotating parts of the engine were all balanced during the build process, which also helps, as the car will touch 6k without any complaints, too. It goes very well, certainly a very noticeable improvement over the standard US spec cars that I've driven. I'm yet to get it on a rolling road, but I'd hazard a guess that the power output is now comparable to a UK car.
Matt
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1 hour ago, Steve-B said:
Uh, yeah just noticed that
so TRTOM2498PI where did you source them from?
I believe Tom uses the Uniroyals in 195/65 size on his TRs.
Matt
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This should hopefully have the info you need… or some of it at least.
https://www.chriswitor.com/datasheets/camshaft_applications.pdf
Matt
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I thought the same Stuart – something just shy of 3000 in reality I believe?
Matt
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Matt,
I've checked back in the archive and unfortunately, other than reporting that I'd sourced a J-type O/D box for my car, I didn't write about the flange amendment and eventual fitment.
Matt
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Matt,
I also fitted a J-type saloon box into my ex-US TR6. Overdrive Repair Services can supply a replacement flange with the correct hole spacing etc, which is what I used.
Matt
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On 7/21/2023 at 1:25 PM, astontr6 said:
Years ago I had the return spring the master cylinder completely break up and it played those sort of tricks on me. As already stated I would check the operation of the clutch pedal mechanism A new master cylinder sorted that problem out.
Bruce.
I had the same problem on my 2500 saloon. Gearbox out, only to find the fork retaining pin was fine. Turned out to be the spring within the master breaking up, damaging the seal. New master cylinder fixed it.
Matt
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David,
I've just searched for the PH2528 online and found an eBay listing, which has Unipart GFE227 listed in the cross reference list, so appears the Fram filter is an equivalent to the 'long' spin-on filter. Thread size listed as 3/4-16 UNF, which is also correct, so looks like you're good to go.
Matt
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On 6/12/2023 at 8:32 PM, trchris said:
Would the expense of converting add any value once taken into consideration?
ChrisI agree with the above… would you really achieve the cost of the LHD-RHD conversion job on top of the asking price/value of the car as it sits when you come to sell? I'm not sure.
Matt
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As mentioned, I just changed my TR6's headlights to ones with an integral sidelight and kept the full orange indicators. A cheap and easy fix.
Each to their own, but I also decided that I'd prefer to honour the fact that the car was originally ordered into the US, rather than altering it to look like a UK car.Matt
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You don't need to use inner tubes on standard steel wheels, nor on other wheels that have been mentioned above. Some wire wheels, yes.
The fitter doesn't know what he's talking about I'm afraid…
Matt
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I fitted the expensive version from TRGB about three years ago after a spate of broken angle drives. No problems since.
Matt
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I've checked with a colleague who is into Morris Minors and he suggests that the box is post 1962 Minor or potentially 1098 or 1275 Midget/Sprite. But probably Minor. Core value of about £50. Hope this helps.
Matt
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MG denotes a Triumph 2.5 PI engine. That's not a Triumph gearbox. MOWOG is an amalgamation of Morris, Wolseley and MG I believe, so that's a start in terms of what it might fit.
Matt
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Chris Witor has a list of head applications/specs on his website…
https://www.chriswitor.com/datasheets/head_applications_chart.pdf
I have a 218225 head on my TR6, also used on a GT6 Mk2, so they do fit.
Matt
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As pointed out by the guys above, the use of the correct dowel bolts is crucial. I was plagued by a shuddery clutch for years on on my 2000 saloon, clutch starting to 'stick' just as you got to the biting point. Also, with the gearbox out, there was a wear mark on the final inch or so of the gearbox nose piece. Clearly the release bearing carrier had been catching on it, which also wouldn't have helped. I ended up mixing and matching from a few spare nose pieces and bearing carriers to find a pair that fitted together smoothly, so to speak. The combination of that and the correct dowel bolts sorted the issue, resulting in a lovely and smooth clutch action.
Matt
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Mike C.
You don't need to be careful. Any plate for a 2000/2500 MkII will work, likewise any full kit for the aforementioned. Very much available. If you are having problems then very much happy to help
Matt
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As Rich notes above, you can indeed use a saloon gearbox in a TR. My ex-US TR6 had a four-speed A-type box in it when I bought it, but the expense of either converting it to overdrive or buying an A-type overdrive box ruled that option out for me.
Instead, I've got a J-type box and 28% overdrive that would have originally been from a 2500S. No problems with solenoid clearance, but I had to buy a different output flange from ORS as the hole spacing was different to the flange on the TR prop. Also got a conversion bracket at the rear that uses a GT6 gearbox mount, so no problems with sourcing another one in the future should it be required. Saloon clutch kit and I was good to go! Combination of 28% overdrive and 3:7.1 final drive is also a good 'un – optimal for sharpness off the line and not too buzzy when cruising on the motorway.
Cheers,
Matt -
Well that's not too bad then, MM code means a 2500TC engine
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John,
If you're referring to the Piper Yellow cam, which I believe you are, then I have one in my TR6 and it is excellent. My engine was built largely by Jason Wright back when he worked at TRGB and he was very complementary about it – and he wasn't wrong. Performance is excellent. Jason basically described it as a CP 150 cam but with more lift.
Matt
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A good result!
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As mentioned above by a good few people, Mintex 1144s are a fabulous pad for road use, noticeable improvement in stopping performance. Have them on my TR6 and also 2500 saloon. The latter is obviously quite a heavy car, yet mine will stop on it's nose with the 1144s fitted. Used them for 10 years or so, wouldn't like to use anything else now.
Matt
Waterless engine Coolant
in TR6 Forum
Posted · Edited by matt george
Short (polite) answer… no
Matt