Mark V
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Posts posted by Mark V
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Attached is a view from the latest "Which" magazine.
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Colin at CTM used to make stainless steel tanks for the TR6, I've got one but it was brought several years ago.
Maybe worth a call to see check.
Mark.
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Has anyone had problems with replacement TR7 distrbutor o ring , suppliers seem to be selling one that is half the diameter (cross section) compared to the one i have in my Tr7.
The Distributor is off a UK RHD TR7 2.0 litre DHC, September 1981 build.
Distributor is a AC Delco D302.
Car has covered just 26,000 miles,
see the comparison in the attached photo.
The O ring that is fitted isn't leaking, I had ordered a replacement as it is 40 years old and I had removed the distributor anyway.
I can always look for one that is closer in dimensions.
The supplier said they would look into it with their supplier, and that they had sold many...
Mark.
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Thanks Harry, I did try Robsports, and got a locking one for time being.
Didnt think of the TR btiz or S & S. Will follow uop next week.
Mark.
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I left my fuel filler cap at the Carre Four at Classic Le Mans last Sunday. However, my friend suggested to try to cut up the coke can he was supping from.
Later I added a slit later to vent the tank. Jobs a good'un!
I've a temp locking one on it now but would prefer to have an orginal one so if anyone has one going, please message me.
BTW, great weekend at the Classic Le Mans, the '7 performed faultlessy.
thanks
Mark.
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I foolishley left my screw-on fuel filler cap at the Le Mans Carre Four last weekend.
Would anyone have an original one for sale?
One thing I can share, is that the long redbull type coke cans, when cut down (so it doen't foul the boot lid when open) fit over the filler pipe a treat!
Thanks
Mark.
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I fitted ap calipers,(racetorations supplied) and brake pedal travel was also fine, has a standard tr6 master cylinder.
Been on car 10years or so.
Mark.
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Hi Steve, have you noticed any difference in noise or vibration in switching to the poly Bushes?
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Thanks Rob
I've managed to get it working, the parking test worked out and cleaning up the switch looks to have given the switch a new life.
Also spruced up the washer switch and it now springs back!
Cheers
mark
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My wiper switch has recently become temperamental. It started with a reluctance to switch on the wipers, it needed a little persuasion to get the low speed to work by first going straight to hi-speed setting, then back to the lo point.
Then today, on encountering a few poor roads, a couple of potholes actually set the wipers going and now they are permanently on!
It’s a 1969 car and has the Clear Hooters type switch which are rather thin on the ground and expensive. However, some years ago I acquired a good looking spare (and also NOS washer switch to boot) so I thought it’s time to swap it.
However, on closer inspection I discovered its not identical to the original as the replacement has only one “on” position not two. It does have 4 blade connectors, so I am wondering if it for a car that had single speed self-parking capability?
I’ve attached photo of the replacement switch and highlighted the part of the switch that prevents the rocker switch from closing like the original.
I’m wondering if I should dismantle the switch to check out the internals to see if by removing that plastic know would give the operations of hi & lo
I’m not so bothered about the hi speed wipers. But I am not sure if this switch would even work when connected.
Interestingly to note the original switch & harness has 4.8mm spade connectors whereas the replacement switch has the larger 6mm type.
I’d be grateful for any thoughts - what car the switch was used on or if this switch is likely to work?
Just to add that the switch is at least 38 years old as that’s how long I’ve owned the car, more likely to be the original so it’s not done too badly…
Thanks in advance,
Mark.
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I'm also travelling from Portsmouth on Wednesday evening, taking my TR6 and travelling with friends who have an MX-5.
Also, Camping at Tertre Rouge.
See you folks there!
Mark.
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My tr6 had a duck egg blue head when I brought it, had a high compression and tendendcy to to pink. The engine was built for the previous s by SAH in '70s, I brought it in 1984 and had a lot of fun wearing it out...
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My wife's vit d test results came in today. Interesting to her levels were double mine and we both take the same dose (4,000iu a day). I suspect the difference is down to me being almost twice as large !
Keep safe folks,
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On 1/18/2021 at 9:28 AM, barkerwilliams said:
I have been taking Vitamin D supplements for well over ten years, perhaps over fifteen years, usually 4000 in the summer and 5000 in the winter. Well curiosity finally got the better of me and I sent off my sample for testing and received the results today.
I was surprised by the result being so close to the bottom end of "good" and I have decided to up my winters daily dose to 8000 for a month or so then have a retest. My metabolism ratio is 10.5 dead centre in the good so I don't have a conversion issue or underlying problem.
Although I know my result is good I would have liked/ expected it to be higher in the good range. For me with my lifestyle, diet or whatever I now really appreciate how dire the UK's recommendation of 400 units/day really is and I can only guess how poor my results would have been at the recommended dose level.
Although I have not had a cold etc for years so I suspected my levels were ok I do not think I understood that I required such levels of supplementation just to make me "low-good".
Aside from clean drinking water I do not believe that there is any other product that can do us all so much good at such an insignificantly low cost.
I hope this might prompt others to take the test, the reassurance it gave me that I am on-track is wonderful.
Alan
I sent off a blood test to see my Vitamin D status, I've been taking 4000IU for almost a year (as has my wife) .
Like Alan I was also surprised at my lower than expected results .
My wife's result has not yet come through, the lab said they had experienced a high level of demand for this service.
Mark
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Hi Harry,
You may remember i had same pedal issue with the replacment calipers fitted during the rebuild on my 6. Later I replaced these with AP 4 pots and vented discs and the long pedal didn't change, but brakes are fine on track
Mark
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Hi Dan,
I wasn't in the car, would have weighed a great deal more if I had!
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Hi Dan
I took my CP TR6 to a weigh bridge and it came to 1108kg. Full fuel tank, spare wheel.
Mark.
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Just to add some information from my experience;
I also have a 0580 464 126, as a spare, it is listed as a Bosch replacement for my current pump, a 0 580 254 909, which has been on the car for over twenty years.
On my TR6 the setup uses the Sytec glass filter which as said earlier, has an internal bore of a little over 5mm. This I.D. appears to be Identical for the 5/16 and 3/8 filter versions, the only difference I can find is the bore of the chrome ends.
Both sizes have the same 4 x 3.2mm diameter holes drilled in each end to allow the fuel to pass out of the input end and through the filter into the output end.
The threaded aluminium rod is 67mm long but not drilled all the way through, its drilled 20mm from one end and 25mm from the other.
I tried unsuccessfully to find flow rates for these filers.
This setup has worked fine, until last year when caviation occurred in temperatures of 40c whilst on tour in France .The fuel level was low probably 2-3gallons and the fuel tank was almost too hot to touch., nearly 50c!
To my mind there is still a flow restriction from the small 5mm bore inlet and outlet of the filter. So I am thinking to change this glass pre-filler arrangement to a bullet filter to improve the fuel flow to the pump to overcome cavitation for these high temperatures. The other pipework to the pump and from the tank has larger bore sizes to match the pump and the Tank outlet is also larger at 8mm.
I would add there were 2 other injected triumphs (TR5s) on Tour and neither had any caviation troubles.
Mark
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I remember someone at moss telling me that some Peugeots use the same uhd. Sorry but I cannot recall which ones.
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Thanks chaps for you input.
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How often do folks running bosch fuel pumps change the large fuel filter?
The fuel filter on my car was fitted over 20 years ago and done some 26k miles since its rebuild. I thought it was about time for change.
I've not yet got round to fitting the replacement (PN 0 450 905 021 if anyone is interested, cost £22, its for a bosch 909 pump ) but I will open it up to see how it looks inside.
i am not expecting much debris as it has a small glass pre-filter and has had a new stainless steel fuel tank since the rebuild.
Mark.
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Make sure the replacement rad is not a 3 row unit, this happened to me many years ago. I replaced a leaky radiator with new one from Cox & Buckles and the car ran hot and easiily overheated.
A 4 row fixed this......
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If you have an alloy rocker cover and roller rockers, the ticking could be coming from rockers coming into contact with the cover.
I changed my cover and the new one caused a ticking and left minor witness marks on the inside of the cover..
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You may find the dashboard oil pressure gauge is inaccurate showing high or low, especially if it is the original. I replaced my original gauge (cica 1969) with a dual oil water/oil version and tested the pressure against my PI pressure gauge when I found the reading was noticeably dropped less on the new one.
In my case I found the old gauge was reading between 10PSI high, which was a bit of a shock! But the actual pressure was within the Triumph specification/limits.
Mark.
anti-glare night driving glasses
in General TR Technical
Posted
thanks John!