Steve Priest
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Posts posted by Steve Priest
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All of the above is great advice and places to go hunting.
However, don't rule out the tank - especially if the smell is in any way related to how full it is. Take a look at the flexible hose linking the fillr cap to the neck on the tank and check for cracks/age and also tightness of the Jubilee (or similar) clips holding the hose on.
Tim
I had a leak from the tank. Turned out to be the gasket (or lack of) on the fuel level sender located on the top of the tank. If the tank was more than about half full, petrol sloshed against the top and leaked out. The sender had been fitted with what looked like a bit of cardboard from a cornflake packet! The correct cork gasket is easy to get hold of and solved the problem.
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Hi Steve,
you can't do it next week-end for that is the date of the TR Register International Week-end meeting.
I know you're not in the TR Reg but that is another good reason to get on down to Malvern.
Join up, enjoy yourself, and find bits you need, plus info.
Roger
Yes, definitely planning on joining up (it's on my todo list - honest!). Would love to get down to Malvern this weekend, however I'm off to a friend's wedding but hopefully next year.
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Early TR4's have anti-rattle "springs" for the front pads(although they're not exactly super-effective on MINE....) As your TR is 1962, it may have the early set-up - see #41 on this link:
http://www.moss-europe.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=1894
Can't be sure you have them but, if you do, check that they are a. not too rusty and b. the right way up and prressing on the pads.
As I say, I think they're a bit ****, but this COULD be your problem...
I'm pretty sure mine are the same as the top-right inset picture, with the removable retaining pins and no anti-rattle springs. I guess it may have been fitted with the later calipers at some point if they aren't original to the car. After listening to it again yesterday, I'm almost certain that this is where the noise is coming from. Maybe I should check the front wheel bearings again for any play. Job for next weekend...
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Thank you Steve and Steve. Can you tell me what effect a sticking jet had on performance for your respective cars? Cheers. James
Well on mine the choke stayed 'on' slightly after I shut it off. As the engine warmed up it started to get lumpy (especially at tick over), at which point I usually remembered to stop and push the jet back in. In my case the sticking was caused by the jet being slightly bent and I had to replace it. Worth trying to lubricate it first as suggested.
Steve
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EBC Green Stuff pads come with a Teflon'esque' anti-squeal gasket that sticks to the pad and piston which works well.
Don.t knoiw if they are available seperately.
Roger - Thanks for your reply. Is this what you were referring to?
Steve
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Managed to spend some time looking at the problem this weekend. UVs seem okay and have checked and adjusted the rear brakes as suggested in a few of the posts, however the noise is still there. Pulling the handbrake whilst driving doesn't stop the noise however the foot brake does so looks like it could be the front brakes.
Looking at the front callipers, there doesn't appear to be any anti-rattle clips or springs (or anywhere to fit them). Does anyone know if they can/should be fitted?
Cheers,
Steve
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Hi James,
I had the same problem. See my post here:
http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?showtopic=24801
Bought a new one from Moss, think it was about £8 and it solved the problem.
Steve
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I had a similar problem so just thought I'd mention it. The problem turned out to be the choke sticking open on one of the carbs. When the choke was released the jet on the second carb was tight in the last few millimetres and failed to return all the way home. Consequently that carb ran rich after the choke was used. Turned out that the jet was very slightly bent. Fitting a new jet solved the problem.
Just as an aside I recommend using a Colortune to get the mixture set up correctly. Tried mine for the first time at the weekend and the idle is now much much smoother than I was ever able to get it before.
Steve
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Thanks for the suggestions chaps, sounds like I need to delve a bit deeper.
Good idea about trying the handbrake Ade, at least that might narrow it down a bit!
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Hi all,
I've now owned my first TR4 for a few months and this is my first post on the forum. It's a 1962 and in good condition, having been restored some years ago. I'm gradually going through it fixing a few minor problems. Would love to do a full restoration one day, but at the moment this is about all I have time for!
One thing I've noticed since I've had it is a gentle clicking noise when driving. It's pretty quiet and mainly noticeable when driving next to a wall or a verge so that the sound gets bounced back. Sounds like it's coming from the rear but hard to be sure. The period of the click is dependent on the road speed and disappears under braking (even very gentle braking). I did originally think it might be a loose wheel spoke but have recently fitted all new wire wheels (for a different reason) and the clicking is still there. Have checked all the wheel bearings and they seem fine. I can't reproduce the noise by spinning any of the wheels when jacked up. I'm starting to run out of ideas so any suggestions gratefully received.
Cheers,
Steve
SU Carb Overflows
in TR4/4A Forum
Posted
Hi all,
Hopefully this is a simple one to answer. The SU carb breather/overflows on my TR4 are not connected to anything. A recent problem with dodgy needle valve resulted in petrol spilling out a little too close to the exhaust for my liking so I think it's time to sort it out. I assume each overflow should have a pipe that leads out the bottom of the engine bay, but can someone please tell me where and how they are routed. A picture would be very useful.
Cheers,
Steve