Steve Priest
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Posts posted by Steve Priest
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Looking at your photo, I think your slave cylinder is attached to the wrong side of the bracket - it should be inserted from the sump side. The push rod may have been shortened to fit.
Steve
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Thanks for your comments. I shall probably line up a decent replacement switch when I finally fix this properly. The starter circuit is currently disconnected from the switch with a temporary button wired in so I can keep using it.
I have dynamo but a +/-50A ammeter and it was a little over half scale. I assume that current was just through the ammeter, rather than the switch, as the dynamo desperately tried to replenish what the starter motor was drawing from the battery. I was a little surprised that my dynamo managed to output that much.
Cheers,
Steve -
Evening all,
My TR4 suffered a slightly bewildering electrical fault on the way home from work this evening. Bear with me, I have some questions at the end...
I'd just joined a fairly fast B road when there was a small clunk and then the sound of an electric motor running at high revs. My first thought was that my Kenlow fan had come off the motor! Very odd I thought. There was nowhere to stop so I carried on for a bit. I then glanced at the ammeter and saw that it was pinned at about +30A. Still not able to stop I switched the ignition off and then back on again, which stopped it. It then happened again a very short while later but luckily I was able to pull over. I stopped the engine and noticed that the key was bit warm as was the starter solenoid. I started the engine and it was clear what the problem was - the starter motor continued to run when the key was released. I pulled the wire off the starter solenoid and this sorted it out until I got home.
So, I've just been in the garage running a few tests. There's clearly a fault in the ignition switch. With the ignition on, there's about 13 ohms between the starter terminal on the switch and +ve on the battery. This drops to zero when the key is turned to start. Therefore, the starter solenoid is powered to a degree all the time. Now interestingly, this 13 ohms means that there is not quite enough juice to pull in the starter solenoid but there is enough to hold it in. So how did it manage to engage while I was driving? Perhaps a bump in the road was enough to jolt the solenoid closed, who knows. Anyway, I'm relieved that nothing appears to have been damaged and I didn't melt the starter.
Anyway, as promised, here are the questions:
Is it worth trying to repair the ignition switch? If not, there are plenty out there, some Lucas branded others not. Any recommendations?
Is it possible to swap the lock barrel from my current switch into a new one? On a scale of 1 to Brexit, how difficult is this to do?
Cheers,
Steve -
For the non-experts among us (and I include myself in that), I found this quite interesting as a bit of background reading:
http://www.tr3a.info/WeberDCOEinfo.htm
Steve
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I’ve not tried it myself, however the gauge is adjustable. Need to rule out everything else first before going down this route though!
Steve
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On 6/14/2020 at 4:15 PM, aterro said:
Hi all,
has anyone used these before?
They come with ARP bolts which is also helpful.
thank you.
You can get a 9% off code by completing their on-line questionnaire. The code is QUE9 so that's £163.80 delivered.
Steve
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Using the voucher code "save6" seems to work.
Steve
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Thanks Rich, it’s a thing of beauty!
Cheers, Steve
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I'm after an original AC Delco fuel pump (not a repro) for a TR4. Either rebuilt or mechanically good condition, suitable for a rebuild.
Thanks,
Steve -
10 minutes ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:
Do not forget the use of 'Speedisleeve' on the scored and grooved axle shaft area the seal runs on.
Peter W
Thanks Peter. I saw a few recommendations for speedi sleeves while trawling the forum. To be honest, both shafts looked very good, one was almost perfect and the other had a very very slight wear mark. I've spent quite a while waiting for parts while tackling all my 'lockdown' jobs so I'm keen to get it back on the road. If they still leak I'll have another go over the winter.
Cheers,
Steve -
1 minute ago, Hamish said:
Here you are bob.
Sorry about that Bob. I'm afraid I'm part of the metric generation and avoid inches unless absolutely necessary!
Steve
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5 hours ago, Ian Vincent said:
Fitting rear axle oil seals?
Rgds Ian
Well done Ian, you've got it right (and earned a lockdown bank holiday beer, or two).
I've been struggling to fit these pesky oil seals. The type currently available don't have the steel outer ring and are tricky to fit square without damaging them. Normally I'd use a socket but don't have one big enough. The pipe was from eBay and the wooden end cut using two hole saws, which fortunately matched the OD and ID of the pipe.
Steve
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Lovingly crafted in my garage this evening and worked a treat. The diameter is 50mm. Any guesses what it’s for?
Steve -
Spotted these in this month's Practical Classics. See item 1 below, adjustable valves for lever arm shocks. Not cheap though at £72.
http://www.suspensionsupplies.co.uk/general-suspension-products/4593174449
Steve
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Hi Pete,
The best way to avoid this problem in the future is to get yourself a domain name. For example, if your name was John Smith, you could register smith.co.uk as a domain name and have john@smith.co.uk as your email address (actually you couldn't as smith.co.uk was registered many years ago, but you get the idea. You may need to be a bit creative to find a domain name that is available).
Have a look at www.uk2.net. It typically costs a few pounds a year to register a domain name.
You have the option of hosting your email with UK2. Or you can use them to redirect your domain email address to an email provider of your choice. I do this and redirect to a Gmail account. The redirection is a bit fiddly to set up but means you get all the nice features provided by Gmail such as searching, tags and a good mobile app.
If you wish, other members of your family can have addresses under the same domain, e.g. jill@smith.co.uk.
Cheers,
Steve -
I have a set of the Siegen S0984 spanners. They are good and I use them often. I quite like Sealey/Siegen tools - they are a good balance between quality and price. The eBay seller in Hamish's link is FFX Tools. I use them quite a bit. It's often cheaper to buy directly from their shop:
I also have a set of these open ended ratchet spanners, however they rarely come out of the tool box I find them clumsy and they feel like they are going to round off whatever I'm trying to undo!
Steve
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I drained my GB over the winter. The arrangement of my 3 magnets and filter is the same as Hamish's photos. I guess the magnets are below to grab hold of any fine particles that make it through the filter. While the GB drain plug was out I took the opportunity to replace it with a magnetic one (I also use the same for my engine sump plug).
Steve
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I've just measured the diameter across the threads on the screw from my old speedo. It's 0.059", so I would take a punt on 11 BA.
http://www.ba-bolts.co.uk/faq.html
Could be completely wrong!
Steve
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Hi David,
There's a weakness in the front lower wishbone mounting bracket that's worth checking and fixing. The issue is that the original bracket was held on by a single stud. General advice is to update to the later two stud bracket. Item #100 here:
Cheers,
Steve
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Hi Willie,
I'm certainly no authority but I installed my TR4 spring clutch release bearing the same way as you - flat side outwards towards the clutch. It's been happily working for the last 4 years. The old bearing I removed was installed the same way.
Steve
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Its approx 1100mm x 880mm.
Steve
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Sorry to hear about your experience pinky. You see those glass ones all over eBay and at shows - never liked the look of them!
When I fitted a filter a few years ago I decided on one of these. They are quite nicely made, no complaints so far:
Steve
Camshaft timing marks?
in General TR Technical
Posted · Edited by Steve Priest
Hi all,
I'm in the process of replacing the timing chain on my TR4. Bit of a learning curve as not something I've done before. After trawling through some very helpful information on this forum, I now understand how to set the cam timing correctly using the method in the workshop manual. I might also try the dial gauge on no.1 inlet method and compare the two. One thing I noticed when I removed the cam sprocket is the notches on the cam bearing, however I can't find any info on this. Are these timing marks? Or should I ignore them and carry on with my empirical approach?
Thanks,
Steve