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Steve Priest

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Posts posted by Steve Priest

  1. SU jet/jet bearing

    in TR4/4A Forum

    Posted

    Yes, I partially rebuilt my carbs a few years back to fix a leak, replaced seals and fitted new jets and needles.  It was after this that the jets started to stick, so I took them out and polished them.  You can remove and refit the jets with the carbs in situ without touching the seals, so you could try this first.  The seals are fairly simple to replace, but you will need to remove the carbs and then reset the mixture afterwards. 

    You can order any bits you need direct from Burlens.  They also have rebuild kits:

    https://sucarb.co.uk/shop

    Steve

  2. SU jet/jet bearing

    in TR4/4A Forum

    Posted

    I can't comment on the TR4A's HS6 carbs as these have a different choke arrangement, however I've had similar issues with my TR4's H6 carbs in the past.  Rich running is sometimes caused by one or both jets not returning fully home after using the choke.  I fixed the issue on mine by polishing the outside of the jets (I held them in a drill and used fine steel wool soaked in polish).  When I first got the car I had one jet that was particularly sticky.  Turned out it was slightly bent and replacing it (and polishing it) solved this problem.

    Steve

  7. Wheel Bearing Failure

    in TR4/4A Forum

    Posted · Edited by Steve Priest

    2 hours ago, Mick Forey said:

    My TR6 has always had brake pad knock-back so giving a long first push of the brake pedal after some good cornering and a rattling noise, often reflected off walls. I have tried all sorts of wheel bearings and adjustments but it never went away. However, earlier this year I bought one of the TR Enterprises kits through TRGB. An amazing difference, hard pedal no matter what you do with the car and no rattling noises.

    I recommend this mod even if you have the smallest amount of pad knock-back.

    Mick

    That's exactly my experience as well Mick.  Personally, I think the kit does very little to stiffen the stub axle.  Rather, it simply allows the free play to be set precisely.

    Steve

  10. Sherwood tap and die sets

    in General TR Technical

    Posted · Edited by Steve Priest

    Thought I'd post this in case it's of use to anyone.  I've been looking for a semi-decent HSS metric tap and die set for a while.  There seems to be a lot of rubbish out there.  In the end I bought a set by Sherwood.  I can't find out much about them, however they are based in Leicester.

    There are a number of their sets currently available on ManoMano.  If you've not used this website before, it's a DIY/engineering marketplace.  They have various sets available for considerably less than I've seen them sold elsewhere, with free shipping:

    Metric: https://www.manomano.co.uk/p/m2-m16-37-pce-hss-threading-set-in-case-2414866

    UNC: https://www.manomano.co.uk/p/no10-3-4-unc-28-pce-hss-threading-set-in-case-13816755

    UNF: https://www.manomano.co.uk/p/no10-3-4-unf-28-pce-hss-threading-set-in-case-13816756

    BSP: https://www.manomano.co.uk/p/bspf-22-pce-hss-threading-set-in-case-13527809

    BSW : https://www.manomano.co.uk/p/3-16-3-4-bsw-28-pce-hss-threading-set-in-case-9277409

    They are all sold by Zoro Tools.  If you go directly to their website, the same sets are available but for more money.

    The only criticism of the metric set I purchased is that the metal case is about twice the size it actually needs to be!  Otherwise I'm happy with it.

    Steve

    Edit: Added UNF link

  15. MOT Shocker

    in TR4/4A Forum

    Posted

    20 hours ago, AndrewMAshton said:

    Any body got strong views on the efficiency of the original metal cased FTC cover seals versus the modern all rubber replacements, I will be tackling that part soon, if I have no more snags!!  Cheers, Andrew

    Andrew, when I did this over the winter, I went for a metal cased seal from Moss and it seems to be doing the job.  I did notice that the PO had installed the old seal the wrong way round, which probably accounted for some of the oil leak!  I also fitted a Speedi Sleeve on the pulley (SKF CR99174) as it was scored.

    Steve

  17. TR4 throttle spindle replacement

    in General TR Technical

    Posted

    Hi,

    This is also a job I have lined up to do.

    I queried the lack of throttle stop hole with Burlen and this is what they said:

    "The spindles are not drilled as the best position for the throttle stop will vary and is best fixed once the carburetter is built up. Our restorers stick the throttle stop in place with Loctite before they drill the hole for the pin."

    This drawing on their website gives the throttle stop clearance and end float:

    https://sucarb.co.uk/technical-h-type-carburetter-replacement-spindle-and-brushes

    Good luck!

    Steve

  18. TR4 engine noise

    in TR4/4A Forum

    Posted

    For the past year I've had a ticking noise that sounded like it was coming from a single tappet.  I repeatedly adjusted them but couldn't get rid of it.  This winter I removed the rockers and push rods.  One push rod had no 'stiction' when I removed it so I sucked out the oil in the cam follower and found a tiny ball of silicon sitting there.  Not run it yet, however I'm pretty sure this is going to solve my problem.  Let's just say, it's put me off using RTV sealant for life!

    Steve

  23. Wanted - Type 16P Calipers for TR4 (refurbished)

    in For Sale, Swap or Wanted, maximum value £250

    Posted · Edited by Steve Priest

    Hi,

    I'm after a pair of Type 16P front brake calipers for my 1962 TR4, preferably a set that has recently been professionally refurbished, ideally with stainless steel pistons.

    I was going to get my existing calipers refurbished, but on closer inspection they are not quite a matching pair.  They are both type 16P but I suspect different ages as the markings and dust seals are different. 

    Thanks,
    Steve

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