aterro
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Posts posted by aterro
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Is it non overdrive gearbox? You need different oil types
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Hi all, thank you
last question, what cylinder liner tool do you use to remove liners easily?
thanks in advance.
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1 hour ago, Motorsport Mickey said:
If you want detailed "How to fit new liners" threads use the search box entering "Liners", there's at least 8 separate threads ( I know I posted them) with hundreds of posts which describe in detail how to carry out these actions.
Short answer to your queries above
1) where the liners meet the block, there is corrosion, will this cause any issues with sealing or should I get it skimmed? …………….If you are talking about the block "deck" where the liners fit in, try using 80 grit wet and dry on a flat block and cleaning up the deck where the "corrosion" is (is the corrosion heavy rust or the more usual dark staining ?. if you decide to have it skimmed ask the engineering shop to set up to the Liner shoulders inside the block and not just drop the block onto the bottom face and skim the top of it (it's likely it will be off...it's 60 years old ! It’s definitely corrosion. There is two links with two photos, but I had just cleaned up the block so still looks wet. I don’t see how a headgasket will seal well with the pitting. I am not sure what you mean by get them to set up liner shoulders inside the block? Can you explain please?
Also what headgasket would you recommend?...……....The headgasket depends upon what you are going to do with the engine, liner size racing or road use etc let us know and we can suggest. 89mm liners and pistons from moss is what I’m planning to buyIt will be a fast road car.
2) the figure of 8. There is marks where the gasket will go. People have said use jb weld? ............ The marks look like they are gouges going into what we call the Liner spigot shoulder ....correct ? if so as suggested clean of any burr or lifted surface around them and fill with J B Weld let it harden and smooth it off level with the shoulder. That’s correct
Can someone also explain how you get protrusion on the liner height correct when you need to use sealant? Or just use welseal after a dry check protrusion check? ……….detailed instructions on how to do this are on the "How to fit new liners" threads mentioned above. If you read them I'm sure all your questions will be answered, if not ask if unsure when you give the answers to the head gasket query. I have read these, but im concerned that using sealant will create issues with protrusion heights? Wouldn’t it be ok to use big m14 penny washers to hold down liners rather than head and gasket?
Mick Richards
I have added my comments above and underlined. Thank you in advance.
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Hi all,
ive cleaned up my block and I’ve notice two issues. Pictures in the links.
1) where the liners meet the block, there is corrosion, will this cause any issues with sealing or should I get it skimmed? Also what headgasket would you recommend?
2) the figure of 8. There is marks where the gasket will go. People have said use jb weld? Can someone also explain how you get protrusion on the liner height correct when you need to use sealant? Or just use welseal after a dry check protrusion check?
Thank you
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37 minutes ago, Andy Moltu said:
Not sure if that one only works on Father’s Day as it was on an email with Father’s Day discount.
Thanks Andy. I presume the code is for the direct website if so I’ll try it as it would be a great price!
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Hi all,
has anyone used these before?
They come with ARP bolts which is also helpful.
thank you.
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Hi all,
does anyone have one of these that they would be willing to sell?
mine has significant wear where the tensioner snapped.
I am based in Leicestershire but happy to pay postage.
thank you.
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Hi all,
i have spoken with a variety of people on engine specifications and opinion varies massively, therefore i was hoping for some honest unbiased opinions on engine builds.
Before i summarise this, if anyone would like to recommend an engine builder in the Midlands that would be helpful.
The purpose of the car is to be a fun, reliable car that will take some abuse. It will be accompanied with a LSD, HS6 carbs, strengthened chassis, twin valve rear dampers and a better braking setup. I want it to be relatively quick from 20mph to 60mph.
therefore i have the following questions;
1) would you recommend 89mm pistons or 87mm?
2) rear crank seal, should the crank end be ground down and an updated seal fitted?
3) What max duration would you recommend for the camshaft? Piper do a nice one with 286. (TR3BP285) but do you think this would likely make it un-driveable as a road car?
it will be standard rods & crank, with a suitably ported head.
thank you
Kind regards
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Hi all,
I am planning to rebuild my late fathers 1964 TR4 engine and I have encountered a few issues/questions which I don't know which to go with.
After stripping the engine down, which was a fairly easy task, I attempted to remove the liners. All but the fourth liner moved quite easily. The corrosion around the fourth liner was horrific and i really struggled to remove it, but sheer determination got it out. Once removed, I cleaned the "crud" off and saw the seat of the liner corroded away sections of the block. I am firstly concerned about the level of block corrosion and if this bottom end is usable. Within the FlickR link is a few pictures to show the damage around the fourth and third liner seat. I am also concerned about the surface of the block being corroded in places and the photos are contained within the below link.
If it is usable, my plan was to get the block acid dipped and remove the camshaft bearings, with some sort of pulley tool.
I have received a price for the cleaning and machining which is; Acid dip block £90, Grind crank £111.50, Grind crank to suit better oil seal £80, Head Crack Test £24, Pressure test £37.50, Lighten flywheel £85, Balance crank £75.00,Balance flywheel £49.00, Balance clutch £45. Oil gallery clean/de-bung £18, Crank de-bung £80.00. This comes out for approx £750 plus VAT. I have never rebuilt a bottom end and I would of asked my Father whether this prices are ok or whether this is expensive. I would therefore appreciate someone being honest with me.
In terms of the rebuild, I have all the basic normal tools (sockets/spanners, good tongue wrench, crane, stand etc) what i don't have is the following;
1) Piston ring compressor
2) Cam bearing removal tool(i believe i can use some threaded bar and associated attached)
3) a tool to hold the liners down
4) Micrometer
5) DTI Gauge.
Can anyone recommend me any tools requested above? I am not sure what accuracy i need the micrometer/dti gauge to be either. If there is anything else i need, id appreciate if you could let me know?
Once the engine is rebuilt, I am looking for a new Chassis, for someone to rebuild the gearbox(non overdrive) and rebuild the rear axle with an LSD.
in terms of over general questions;
1) 89mm pistons/Liners. Any recommendations on supplier?
2) some sort of upgraded camshaft (what is the best duration for a road car 300/or slightly less wild at 290?
5) new front timing chain cover as mine has wear on it from broken tensioner. Does anyone sell these new?
Thank you in advance for any help with this.
Aaron
Leicestershire -
Regarding the auto box.
Ill look into the 2500 saloon.
The BW 65 wont fit the tr4 According to moss brothers.- even thought im sure the bw 65 was from a 2500???
Finding a auto box is a big if at the moment. which is awful.
Thank you for trye sizes.
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hello
im currently looking for a automatic gearbox setup for the tr4.
Ive been told i can fit a dolmite box if i use tr4 housing?
this true?
or any other straight fit?
Ive also been told might be easier just to change the tr4 engine to a stag engine with auto box?
Im just after a auto box setup cheers
Also
15x 5.5 wheels
what trye size should i run which these?
thanks
TR4a LS3 engine? Find the owner?
in General TR Technical
Posted · Edited by aterro
Hi all
does anyone know the owner of the below linked TR4A ?
I have spoken with the previous owner who built the car and he didn’t have the new owners details. the new owner is the same owner who bought it from the builder
I am interested in purchasing
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=47&t=1666532
thanks in advance.