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frank_s

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Posts posted by frank_s

  4. Door Seals

    in TR7/8 Forum

    Posted

    I’m just bringing this out again, hopefully somebody out there can provide an answer. The door aperture seals for the tr7 dhc are no longer available. Rimmers and Robsport can offer no suitable alternative. Robsport say that trim they’ve tried to use as a replacement doesn’t work and can only recommend pursuing with the old. Surely someone amongst our members has tried something with positive results? 
    Thanks

    Frank

  5. Door Seals

    in TR7/8 Forum

    Posted

    Hi Mike, many thanks for your reply.

    Given that the original pattern seals are not available any more to my knowledge, I would have thought there may have been a few more comments on this as there are a number of suppliers of door seals around!!  And I bet not all of them work brilliantly for the TR7... Has nobody tried any others?

    Here’s hoping!

    Frank

  7. Door Seals

    in TR7/8 Forum

    Posted

    Hi - for obvious reasons, finally getting round to doing those bits and pieces Ive been meaning to do for ages... I'm looking for replacement door seals for my DHC, the originals now are not watertight. What replacements seals are recommended? Any advice from those that have tried and tested alternatives would be very helpful.

    Many thanks

    Frank

  8. Fuel gauge on 1980 TR7

    in TR7/8 Forum

    Posted

    Hi -  my fuel gauge level moves all over the place with the fuel in the tank sloshing from side to side going round bends. There's no damping at all on the gauge.  Am I missing a tank sender unit voltage stabiliser or something similar to stop this happening? Or have I got a different problem? 

    Cheers

    Frank

  9. TR4A engine oil leak - just purchased

    in TR4/4A Forum

    Posted

    Hi Melvyn,

    Speaking from experience...  as Roger says - I would quickly try the car without the PCV and just drop a pipe to discharge to ground, clean up the oil around the dip stick, and just run it for 20 or so miles.Then have a look and see if there's still oil coming out past the dip stick. My bad experience originated from me dispensing with the PCV and using a pipe as described, but choosing too small a bore and allowing it to get blocked (as it will). This increase in pressure blew oil past the dipstick and the front oil seal, no problem. Hell of a mess. I'm not saying you might not have other issues, though!

    Frank

  11. Diff pinion nut

    in TR4/4A Forum

    Posted

    Sorted.... put the shims on the correct side of the bearing, tightens up to required torque, turns smooth as silk. I can imagine what happened with the PO, manhandling the diff to put in a new oil seal, roller taper falls out, shims fall out and he puts them back wrong way. But why would you ignore this and just finger tighten the nut to compensate?? Oil seal was fine, it was just oil leaking past the splines because it wasn't tight. Makes you wonder....

    Thanks

    Frank

  12. Diff pinion nut

    in TR4/4A Forum

    Posted

    Thanks to everyone for your really helpful contributions. Having read Ian's post and looked at the cross-sectional drawing etc etc, I think I have a theory ....  when I started this job and removed the flange and old pinion oil seal, there were two shims on the outer face of the final taper bearing. I don't see any diagram that shows any shims at that point. The workshop manual talks about a shim pack and a compressible washer that should be fitted on the inner side of the bearing so that, as Ian has explained here, the pre-load is correct and the spacing between the inner and outer bearings is correct. Then I can see that tightening the pinion nut should have no effect on the spacing and hence on bearing load. I have just reassembled the diff as I found it but I wonder whether the previous owner put the shims in on the wrong side and then just didn't tighten the nut up fully to maintain smooth operation of the flange. How does that sound??!!

    Frank

  13. Diff pinion nut

    in TR4/4A Forum

    Posted

    Thanks everyone. I think I'm going to have to take the nose apart again. Sounds like something is wrong with the preload or something - shims wrong or something.  It's clearly been taken apart before and the fact the nut was on so loose suggests something was ignored. I'm not impressed with the new oil seal though....

    Frank

  15. Diff pinion nut

    in TR4/4A Forum

    Posted

    Thanks very much Roger / Richard,

    I'm not sure about this at all, the diff locks up at that torque.

    Firstly, I've got the workshop manual and I noted the 85-100 ft/lbs torque for the hypoid flange in the torque settings table, but in the text I can see no mention of a hypoid flange (unless I missed it). Text and diagrams refer to companion flange, or pinion nut etc, and on diff reassembly, the text just says tighten the nut securely, no mention of a torque setting. That was my initial confusion. But secondly, I have torqued the nut up to 50 ft/lbs just to see, and the diff appears locked solid. I can't turn the flange (just to be clear, I mean the pinion shaft flange that connects to the prop).

    Additionally, to add to my frustration, the oil seal still leaks past the flange shaft, and it doesn't feel like there is a tight fit of seal to the shaft. The shaft is in good condition, certainly not worn enough to cause this kind of leak with new cold oil. On inspection with the flange secured in place, there is approx 1/8inch gap between the top of the seal and the inner face of the flange - ie there's an 1/8 inch segment of shaft showing. That's probably a red herring though? The shaft is well inserted into the seal.

    If this really needs to be torqued up to 85/100, then something's very wrong with my diff and probably explains why the previous owner only secured the nut just past finger tight. Any ideas anyone?

    Frank 

     

  16. Diff pinion nut

    in TR4/4A Forum

    Posted

    I've just replaced the pinion oil seal on my 4A diff and Ive got a problem tightening up the castellated nut. When I started the job, the nut was literally only finger tight.... didn't think that was right but I hadn't had any problems from the diff other than the oil seal leak. Now putting it back together I'm caught between two settings in order to get the split pin in the nut. The diff turns freely with a looser setting (just a bit more than finger tight) and feels good, but if I tighten it up to the next hole, the diff stiffens up and there's significant initial resistance to turning, becoming freer as you keep turning the pinion flange. If I stop, it stiffens up again. Firstly, can anyone explain what's going on and secondly, is there a recommended minimum torque - or can I just tighten to the first, looser, setting?

    Thanks

    Frank

     

  17. Help wanted 4A in France

    in General TR Technical

    Posted

    Hi, sitting in a campsite in France near Le mans for the classic, with a failed rear wheel bearing, just waiting for the DAS rescue truck.... but just a forlorn hope that a French member nearby might have a spare hub they'd sell so I can do a repair and drive home? My mobile number is 07885785671

    Sorry if post is in wrong place, and thanks for reading it!

    Frank

  20. Timing

    in TR7/8 Forum

    Posted

    Thanks Peter.

    You're right, and timing was a complete red herring, it's running ok now.

    I opened up the distributor to check the advance/retard mechanism wasn't an issue and I noticed I'd somehow managed to knock off the condenser lead. One thing led to another, as it does... Still, I've learnt a bit I guess.

    Frank

  21. Timing

    in TR7/8 Forum

    Posted

    Just had second thoughts on this, having spoken with mate owning TR4 - he questioned whether >20degs BTDC at 1800 was that far out given modern fuels i.e. you'd expect it to be different to the timing requirements when out the factory running 4star. I don't know what it was before I did the job and have never set the timing on this car, so I wonder whether I might just have another issue causing the misfiring I got after putting it back together.

     

    So in addition to any views on my original post, can I also ask what people have found are typical static and/or dynamic timing settings for their standard 2.0L 8 valve engine? The manual says 10degs static, and 11, 15.7 and 20 degs dynamic at 1000, 1800 and 2400 revs respectively.

     

    Thanks!

    Frank

  22. Timing

    in TR7/8 Forum

    Posted

    Hi

    I've just replaced my timing chain and tensioner etc on my 80 dhc (AC Delco dizzy). I have correctly lined up the jackshaft, distributor, camshaft and crankshaft timing marks, put it all back together and the timing is way out - off the scale, more than 20degs BTDC at about 1800 rpm. I cannot adjust the distributor to make up the discrepancy. I cannot understand why it should be out and have taking it all apart again to check I hadn't slipped a tooth on the jackshaft putting it back, but it all looks fine. The car was running ok before, might have been a little out on timing but negligible. Any ideas why?

     

    And how to adjust - should I just slip the chain off again and realign the jackshaft (incorrectly) to accommodate it?

    Cheers

    Frank

  23. Camshaft and timing chain help

    in TR7/8 Forum

    Posted

    Thanks Andy / Andrew

    Now I feel really dumb...

    Of course the valves will be up in the head, thanks for putting me right Andy. I've no worries now and will have a go with what I've got. If no luck, thanks for the offer of the impact wrench Andrew (and maybe your hub puller!)

    Frank

  24. Camshaft and timing chain help

    in TR7/8 Forum

    Posted

    Hi

    I've made a daft mistake. I wanted to adjust the valve clearances on my standard 2l 1980 dhc. Simple job, only needed two shims but I got a bit carried away and took the camshaft out without locking off the camshaft sprocket to the support bracket, as clearly described in my Haynes manual which I seem unable to read.

     

    Consequently, the chain and sprocket dropped down a bit as I removed the camshaft and I believe the chain tensioner has popped out because I cannot get the sprocket back to the right level. If so, I have to take the timing cover off. Unless anyone has any other suggestions?

     

    If I do that, I will take the opportunity to replace the chain, tensioner etc so it won't be a total waste of time. However, I now have another problem and hope for some advice please:

     

    I am ready to remove the crank pulley. Having done that on a 4A and know how difficult it was I'm expecting to have trouble shifting the pulley bolt without moving the crank. Handbrake is on and car in gear, spark plugs in for max compression, but my worry is that as my camshaft is out and my valves are clearly independent of the crank now, I could really make my weekend if the crank moves. Should I lock the crank, and how? Or am I being over cautious? Also - can anyone please tell me what size the crank bolt is and whether it is normal thread or reverse.

     

    Any help would be appreciated.

    Thanks

    Frank

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