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About frank_s

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    Barnstaple, North Devon

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  1. frank_s

    Door Seals

    Many thanks Laurence, sorry for late reply. I’ll follow this up - thanks for the warning, I’ll make sure I’m sitting down! Frank
  2. frank_s

    Door Seals

    I’m just bringing this out again, hopefully somebody out there can provide an answer. The door aperture seals for the tr7 dhc are no longer available. Rimmers and Robsport can offer no suitable alternative. Robsport say that trim they’ve tried to use as a replacement doesn’t work and can only recommend pursuing with the old. Surely someone amongst our members has tried something with positive results? Thanks Frank
  3. frank_s

    Door Seals

    Hi Mike, many thanks for your reply. Given that the original pattern seals are not available any more to my knowledge, I would have thought there may have been a few more comments on this as there are a number of suppliers of door seals around!! And I bet not all of them work brilliantly for the TR7... Has nobody tried any others? Here’s hoping! Frank
  4. For what it's worth, I actually managed to repair my rubber-sandwich plates, one of which had separated completely, with tiger seal, clamped overnight in the vice. It's been on the car for maybe 1000 miles and is still ok. Frank
  5. frank_s

    Door Seals

    Hi - for obvious reasons, finally getting round to doing those bits and pieces Ive been meaning to do for ages... I'm looking for replacement door seals for my DHC, the originals now are not watertight. What replacements seals are recommended? Any advice from those that have tried and tested alternatives would be very helpful. Many thanks Frank
  6. Hi - my fuel gauge level moves all over the place with the fuel in the tank sloshing from side to side going round bends. There's no damping at all on the gauge. Am I missing a tank sender unit voltage stabiliser or something similar to stop this happening? Or have I got a different problem? Cheers Frank
  7. Hi Melvyn, Speaking from experience... as Roger says - I would quickly try the car without the PCV and just drop a pipe to discharge to ground, clean up the oil around the dip stick, and just run it for 20 or so miles.Then have a look and see if there's still oil coming out past the dip stick. My bad experience originated from me dispensing with the PCV and using a pipe as described, but choosing too small a bore and allowing it to get blocked (as it will). This increase in pressure blew oil past the dipstick and the front oil seal, no problem. Hell of a mess. I'm not saying you might no
  8. Sorted.... put the shims on the correct side of the bearing, tightens up to required torque, turns smooth as silk. I can imagine what happened with the PO, manhandling the diff to put in a new oil seal, roller taper falls out, shims fall out and he puts them back wrong way. But why would you ignore this and just finger tighten the nut to compensate?? Oil seal was fine, it was just oil leaking past the splines because it wasn't tight. Makes you wonder.... Thanks Frank
  9. Thanks to everyone for your really helpful contributions. Having read Ian's post and looked at the cross-sectional drawing etc etc, I think I have a theory .... when I started this job and removed the flange and old pinion oil seal, there were two shims on the outer face of the final taper bearing. I don't see any diagram that shows any shims at that point. The workshop manual talks about a shim pack and a compressible washer that should be fitted on the inner side of the bearing so that, as Ian has explained here, the pre-load is correct and the spacing between the inner and outer bearings i
  10. Thanks everyone. I think I'm going to have to take the nose apart again. Sounds like something is wrong with the preload or something - shims wrong or something. It's clearly been taken apart before and the fact the nut was on so loose suggests something was ignored. I'm not impressed with the new oil seal though.... Frank
  11. Correction.... I can turn the flange but it's very stiff and it isn't smooth - there's a hint of notchiness about it if that's any help? F
  12. Thanks very much Roger / Richard, I'm not sure about this at all, the diff locks up at that torque. Firstly, I've got the workshop manual and I noted the 85-100 ft/lbs torque for the hypoid flange in the torque settings table, but in the text I can see no mention of a hypoid flange (unless I missed it). Text and diagrams refer to companion flange, or pinion nut etc, and on diff reassembly, the text just says tighten the nut securely, no mention of a torque setting. That was my initial confusion. But secondly, I have torqued the nut up to 50 ft/lbs just to see, and the diff appears lo
  13. I've just replaced the pinion oil seal on my 4A diff and Ive got a problem tightening up the castellated nut. When I started the job, the nut was literally only finger tight.... didn't think that was right but I hadn't had any problems from the diff other than the oil seal leak. Now putting it back together I'm caught between two settings in order to get the split pin in the nut. The diff turns freely with a looser setting (just a bit more than finger tight) and feels good, but if I tighten it up to the next hole, the diff stiffens up and there's significant initial resistance to turning, beco
  14. Hi, sitting in a campsite in France near Le mans for the classic, with a failed rear wheel bearing, just waiting for the DAS rescue truck.... but just a forlorn hope that a French member nearby might have a spare hub they'd sell so I can do a repair and drive home? My mobile number is 07885785671 Sorry if post is in wrong place, and thanks for reading it! Frank
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