rogeraero
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Posts posted by rogeraero
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Hi All,
I am trying with little success to source a chrome exhaust tail end for my 1955 TR2.The outside dimension is 48mm .
Does anyone have a suggestion as to a supplier.
Happy New Year.
Roger
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Charlie,
Thanks a million, you saved a disaster. I think I will install a separate button as I have done on my MG
Regards
Roger
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I have a TR2 1955 and and I am having intermittent horn bursts (embarrassing!).I have checked the wiring and the problem seems to be from inside the horn push in the centre of the steering wheel.The manual shows that the centre of the horn push simply prises off but I seem unable to remove it.Any tips please?.
Thanks
Roger
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Pete, Dave and Rich,
Thanks for your comments, I will try Rugby and Slough for their opinions on the safety and cost of refurbishing.
Regards
Roger
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Hi All,
I have a set of 60 spoke painted wire wheels I bought from TR Shop 10 years ago. Due to my poor maintenance 2 of them are showing signs of corrosion and rust...The dilemma!... should I bite the bullet and buy a new set (or just 2 new ones) or does anyone know a local repairer in the Northampton area who would shot blast etch and re-stove?
I really cannot make up my mind which is the best decision.. any thoughts?
Roger
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Hi Rod,
I took my TR2 chassis on a standard Halford roof rack on the top of mt Audi A6 from Northampton to CT in Southampton no problems. It did take two of us to load it.
Regards
Roger
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Hi Louis,
I live just outside Northampton and use Northampton Motorsport on the Rothersthorpe Inustrial Estate.I highly recommend them.
Regards
Roger B
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Hi 2Long,
I shimmed my rocker towers with bits cut from a toffee tin.That was 5 years ago and it runs fine.
Regards
RogerB
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Hi John,
I have used Chrome Restore near Coventry(J2 off M6) for my TR2 restoration 5 years ago and my more recent 1934 Singer Nine Sports restoration.They are slow but I found their quality excellent.I recommend them.
Regards
Roger B
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Hi Eddieb,
I fitted a Kenlowe to my TR2 about 4 years ago.It is simple, you do not need to remove the rad.Just use the plastic straps supplied,follow the simple instructions.Never had any trouble and I am no techie.
I hope this reassures you.
Regards
Roger B
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Thank you all for your helpful suggestions.The problem as you suggested was a wire disconnected under the carpet.All is working fine now.This register is a delight to belong to as everyone is so helpful.
Thanks again
Roger
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Help!
My recently professionally fitted overdrive has suddenly stopped working, I guess that the solenoid wire has come adrift and if I can fix it myself it will save a long journey to the garage that fitted it( highly respectable ,no complaints)Where will this wire connection be ,can I get at it fom under the car or do I need to remove the transmission tunnel...sorry for being lazy but this could save hours!!
Regards
Roger
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Hi Rodbr,
For your info I advertised a pair of HS6 carbs here a few weeks ago, no-one was interested so I sold them on Ebay...I got £185 if that helps .
Regards
Roger
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Hi All,
I crept over here from the TR2 section!!
If anyone is interested I have a pair of H6 SU carbs for sale...reconned as new..but no linkages.
Interested call me on 01604 890925
Regards to you "modern " car owners
Aeroroger
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Hi All,
I know this comment will upset all you trendy Tr Register members...but is Christmas something to do with the birth of Christ and the Church so what is the relevence of cartoon cars?
A merry Christmas!
Roger
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HI Rod,
I had a similar problem and I simply used a bit of plastic ducting, the sort that is spiral wound wire with plasic covering. It is about 6" diameter.
It is fitted from just behind the grill and round to the front of the engine using cable ties.
Sounds crude but it works for me plus of course ,electric fan, flushed block and stainless steel heat shield between exhaust manifold and carbs.
Hope this helps
Roger
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Hi Rod,
I had a similar problem with my TR2 even after I had the block cleaned out.
I solved it in 3 ways:
1) A Kenlow fan
2)I made up a stainless steel heat shield between the exhaust manifold and the carbs, this stopped the problem of fuel vaporisation on restarting when the engine was hot.
3)I ran a piece of flexible ducting from just behind the radiator to play cold air on the engine.This is simply fixed with cable ties.
I now have no problems.
I hope this helps
Roger
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Gilles,
I do not know how to add aphoto.
Send me your email address and I will try to do it by email
Roger
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Hi Gilles,
I bought mine from the TR Shop in Chiswick.
The top fixing uses the boot lid hinges and I made a simple bracket that fits around the boot lock and is fixed by a fog light bracket to the bottom end of the rack...there is no drilling in the boot lid at all.
I hope this is clear!
Roger
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Hello,
I am looking for a boot rack for my Triumph TR3
What are the types that are existing today ?
I have seen somewhere a boot rack that do not need to drill the boot and can be fixed to the hinges on the "upper" part of the boot.
But what about the fixing system on the bottom part of the boot ?
Please, let me know advises and show me yours !
Thanks a lot
Gilles
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Don,
I fixed the horn push problem in 1 hour thanks to the article you sent me ....thanks a million
Roger
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Don,
Thanks so much for your speedy reply.
I have downloaded the article and will attempt a repair at the weekend.
Regards
Roger
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The horn on my 1958 TR3A would sometimes stay honking till I could hit the button in another spot to get the button to come back. I had taken it all apart during the restoration and I had the center ring re-chromed. The thickness of the added chrome caused the horn button to wedge. Also, to get that ring off, there are three tabs underneath that I had to bend straight. The added chrome on these tabs resulted in the tabs being stiffer to bend back into place during re-assembly and this added to the problem. It was a simple matter to remove the horn button and with a small 90 degree file, I filed away about 0.010" all around the central horn button to give it the clearance it now needed. While it was out, I lightly cleaned the brass electrical contacts. I have had no issues since then.
Clive Elsdon on the TR Register Glavon Group has done a very informative technical article on how to take it apart.
http://www.tr-register.com.au/Files/technical.htm
And then scroll down about 10 or 11 topics to find the link.
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Can anyone please help?
The horn push on my 1955 TR2 no longer works, the wiring and the horns are fine but the push contact is intermittent and unreliable...it either stays on all the time(embarassing!) or only works occasionally.
Is there any way to get the actual push part off without dismantling the whole thing or must I buy a new unit?
Thanks in anticipation
Roger
TR" Exhaust trim
in TR2/3/3A/3B Forum
Posted
Thanks for your help chaps.. I will try the local tube man.
Regards
Roger