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About CJG

  • Birthday 10/08/1970

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  • Location
    Düsseldorf, Germany
  1. Hi everyone, due to local German regulations, I will need to switch to octagonal spinners when I get my car out of storage. I have noticed that these are on offer from Moss at the moment (Part nos. 88G606 ond 88G607). Are these of decent quality? I remember reading in the past, that there were some octagonal spinners of decidedly dubious quality and/or poor fit about. If these are not safe, do you know of a better source? Regards, CJG
  2. Thanks Stuart. On which side should I put the tape: on the reservoir or on the lid? Regards, CJG
  3. Thanks, Alan. Just one question, though. If it's coming out through the vent hole, how do I stop it? Does that mean the system's overfilled? Regards, CJG
  4. Hi everyone, I'm afraid the old girl is still dripping DOT4 - something I need to get sorted before I have the bulkhead resprayed!!! The brake master cylinder (which is about 8 months old) seems OK, but I've noticed fluid oozing from around the cap of the reservoir on the clutch master cylinder (which is about 48 years old). The question is - is it enough to replace the seal at the top of the reservoir? Is the system likely to be overfilled? If I need a new cylinder, where can I get a reliable unit of decent quality? The problem occurs primarily after long runs, particularly when there
  5. If you have sufficient headroom in your garage (and given that the Caterham is pretty low) you might be able to get away with a "Doppelparker" - I'm not sure what these are called in English, or whether they are allowed in the UK, but they are reasonably common here. Basically, they let you "stack" your cars in the garage (the Caterham will have to go on top - I hope it doesn't leak oil!). They start at about €3-4K, plus installation. Regards, CJG
  6. I have just taken delivery of a replacement Surrey Top vinyl hood. Unfortunately, it came without the Durable Dot fasteners to secure the corners to the screen frames. I have sourced some of these fasteners, but how do I fit them? Do I need special tools, do I need to make holes in the hood? Grateful for any advice..... Regards, CJG
  7. CJG

    faulty horn

    I had a similar problem with my TR4. Essentially, you are shorting the horn circuit with you electrically conductive Moto-Lita wheel boss! The original Bakelite wheel is a pretty good insulator.... The horn should be operated by a "horn pencil", a spring-loaded contact which goes through the wheel boss and is activated by the horn push. If this is missing, you need to order one from Moss or similar. As for the wheel itself shorting out the horn contacts, I adopted a "pragmatic" apporach (not exactly Vorsprung durch Technik....): a ring cut out of glossy-surfaced card, placed between the wh
  8. The battery is about 6 months old (Bosch), but the car is running on its original dynamo. Oh, and the Kenlowe has been on more or less permanently, due to the sweltering temperatures here. Regards, CJG
  9. Just got the car back from a comprehensive tune-up. The diagnosis: not enough oil in the carbs, an air leak at the inlet manifold and one carb too rich, the other too lean. She runs beautifully now, and idles evenly at 800 rpm. However, at idle, the ignition warning lamp glows dimly (the car has been fitted with "Ignitor" electronic ignition). Should I be worried about this, or is this just a "quirk"? Regards, CJG
  10. Well, if the "donor" car is clearly beyond restoration, I don't see anything wrong with this kind of thing. It's still a lot better than what used to happen to quite a few E-Types, Mk2s and (would you believe it) Gullwing 300SLs. After all, a certain Mr. Shelby did something similar back in '62..... But seriously, a TR without scuttle shake seems like an interesting concept - just a shame it didn't get a straight six. I'm sure a suitable BMW unit could be made to fit...... Regards, CJG
  11. Does anyone out there have any experience of using the epoxy-filled Flamethrower? Regards, CJG
  12. I'm afraid my car is still stubbornly refusing to "just idle"! I've replaced the coil (Flamethrower), rotor arm (Martin Jay's red one), distributor cap, leads and plugs (NGK). Oh, and there's an "Ignitor" module fitter, so effectively, the whole ignition system is new. Timing was adjusted when the Ignitor was fitted, the coil and other components were added later. On starting cold, the engine runs just fine (but it seems to need two or three attempts to get going). After about a minute or two, it starts to idle lumpily (sounds like it's on two cylinders), but this smooths out to a norm
  13. Thanks for the advice. I guess I'll leave the glycol stuff in then, and change the master cylinder(s) when I get back. I'll have the bulkhead repainted now (the best defence against the dreaded tinworm), but I'll make sure there is something in place to catch any fluid drips. Is I intend to use the car in the mountains when I get back, I'm not taking any chances with dodgy seals (and potential catastrophic and very downhill failure!). The car will be kept in a dry storage facility in Germany. I would take it with me, but the Chinese authorities don't encourage that sort of thing (ironi
  14. Does anyone have experience of switching a TR4 (standard setup, no brake servo) from DOT 4 to silicone brake fluid? Is a thorough flush sufficient before refilling, or do all the rubber seals need to be replaced? If you knew you had to lay your car up for approx. 3 years due to a secondment abroad, would you make the switch? After a nasty leak in the past I'm going to have to have part of the bulkhead repainted before rust takes hold - I don't fancy doing this twice! I've heard rumours that DOT 5 destroys the brake light sensor - is there any truth in this, or is it just scaremonge
  15. Hi Everyone, I intend to fit a Pertronix "Flamethrower" ignition coil to my 1962 TR4 (positive earth). The car is currently still fitted with its original (very leaky) Lucas coil. Does anyone know if the car is fitted with a ballast resistor, and if so, where should I look for it - apparently I have to remove it for the coil to work properly. P.S.: the car is fitted with an Ignitor electronic ignition module. Thanks in advance. CJG
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