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Alanretired

TR Register Members
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About Alanretired

Profile Information

  • Location
    Essex
  • Cars Owned:
    1974 Triumph Tr6, 1958 Triumph Tr3a

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  1. Thanks Rich. My first choice is to fit a new oil seal to my removed pump which has the bronze lever. I had already fitted the repair kit and the pump was working perfectly apart from the oil leak. Thanks Alan
  2. Hi all. I have a similar request I have just fitted a new fuel pump to resolve an oil leak. The new pump has a two piece pressed and riveted steel foot which looks very cam unfriendly. The removed pump had a bronze (or similar material) foot which I would like to refit if I can obtain an oil seal. Can anyone please advise where I could buy one. I could then carry the new one as a spare. Regards Alan
  3. Finally resolved my engine oil leak. After cleaning the area with petrol and dusting with talc, I found that the oil was coming from the oil pressure relief valve housing bolt and running down the back of the filter head onto the filter head to canister joint. The bolt head should be sealed by a large washer and a seal located in a machined recess in the filter housing. Neither of these were present. After fitting a large copper washer and a rubber o ring, the oil leak was resolved. Alan
  4. Hi Mike Good point about the O ring idea and the seal selection method. With all the advice I have received I am confident that i can reduce the engine oil leak to an acceptable level. Alan
  5. Hi Stuart I did fit them as you said but what centralises the larger washer or doesn't it matter so long as the oil pressure gets through to the banjo. Alan
  6. Hi Peter I did make sure that the old seal was removed but i did not seat the new seal using the canister. I have ordered the square section bottom seal and will seat a new upper seal using your method when fitting both parts. Alan
  7. Hi Ralph There is some evidence of oil on the canister but not enough to explain the oil on the chassis rail. When I recently changed the fuel pump due to an oil leak I sealed the breather pipe into the block. As you suggested I will try sealing the oil pressure pipe nut to eliminate another possible cause. The two copper washers are new. What is strange is that when the engine is fast idling and the car on ramps I can't see the source of the leak. Alan
  8. I am having a problem resolving an oil leak from the Puralator oil filter. After a 30 mile drive a puddle of oil forms on the chassis rail outboard but not directly underneath the filter housing. I assume that the oil is dripping from the filter canister to housing joint and the air flow around the engine deposits it on the rail. I have previously removed the housing and squared up the gasket face using wet and dry on a surface plate and fitted a new gasket sealed with Wellseal. The dip stick has a new felt seal and there is no oil around the hole. I have used the narrower rubber seal on the c
  9. My problem is now solved. The leaking front carb had been fitted, by a previous owner, with an incorrect upper bearing which was 0.1 inch less deep than spec. I then fitted 0.032 inch upper bearing washers as recommended by Tom and the leak is resolved. Alan
  10. Hi I also have a fuel leak downwards from the jet on my Tr3a's front carb. The rear carb is leak free. Both carbs have four viton o rings on the jet and a larger Viton o ring on the gland nut. To cure the leak and stop the male threaded piece from turning i had to fit a 0.055'' upper bearing washer. After reading Tom Bryant's detailed post i tried reducing the washer thickness to 0.032" but the problem reoccurred. Could my problem be that I have an incorrect thickness lower bearing washer. Tom - can you please advise the correct thickness of the lower bearing washer. If the
  11. I am currently fitting a Smiths heater, bought on the forum several years ago, to my 1958 Tr3a. Unfortunately I am missing the short screen vent duct that sits between the main outlet on the bottom plate and the Y piece. The duct positions the Y piece in an upward direction. Before making one I thought I would ask if anyone has such a part available. Kind Regards Alan
  12. Hi Des My hardtop is an original steel one. I understand from forum posts and from talking to register members that a spring steel roof bow was fitted to reduce drumming. I am not sure if it was fitted to all hardtops. I assumed that there was two bows but now understand that only one was fitted. Regards Alan
  13. Hi all I am preparing a hardtop for my Tr3a and have all the parts except for the two roof bows. Does anyone have a spare roof bow(s) for sale, or one that they are happy to measure/ photograph to help me make new bows. Regards Alan
  14. Thanks for you comments on eBay and head alternatives. Buying on ebay is never easy as I prefer to see the parts before buying. I have however bought parts from Register members without inspecting and have never been disapointed. Regards Alan
  15. Hi Stuart Thanks for your reply. Did you have inserts fitted to the inlet and exhaust or just the exhaust. Is there an engineering/ welding company that you would recommend. Regards Alan
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