tr-pete
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Posts posted by tr-pete
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Many thanks for all your input and advice, will forget it and just enjoy driving as it is .its been fine for the last 10 years I've owned it so why mess....many thanks pete
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Nearing completion of putting my tr4a back together from a respray earlier this year..and had the pleasure of talking to a very knowledgeable man on the train the other day about triumphs who told me to put a dolomite sprint lsd diff into it as i have a solid back axle model (not irs) can any members give me some advice.? I do drive it pretty hard and have enjoyed it for many years...is there any advantage? Does it fit straight in...are all sprints lsd? Any thoughts appreciated!....pete
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Many thanks this is fab information, i do seem to recall that maybe the overdrive did work in third when i first had the car, all be it i think it used to jump in and out every second so i stoped trying to use it in third but now I'm testing my memory. So a dirty groove would make sense. I guess a multimeter would trace the offending switch by moving the gear stick and prove when fixed. Many thanks all and any other help greatly appreciated...pete
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Hi , if anyone has any advice, i have owned my tr4a for 10 years and the overdrive has always worked perfectly in 2nd and 4th byt not third. Currently doing jobs on the car and stripped the gear box tunnel out expecting to find three switches on top of the gearbox one with either a loose wire or switch needing screwing down etc. But there is only two switches. Does that mean i only have overdrive in second and fourth or can anyone help? It is a j type box btw..thanks pete
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Thank you to all who posted with helpful advice .i took the halfshaft to day from the garage to a specialists engineering works . And hay presto i hadn't even got home and they had lt apart. I think the garage had a good press when new but what year that was i dont know. It took 15 tons of pressure according to the specialist engineering works if that ever helps anyone else many thanks all pete
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thanks for the replies so far - a bit more info (as i learn myself!) according to the moss book it is a Girling axle - the garage doing it are a well reputed garage who do a huge amount of work for vosa on lorries etc - i know their press must be 30ton if not more, and they have used gas and cannot shift it at all....... according to the moss europe book, all the parts in there are listed, does that mean they are all available? Assuming the garage cannot in any way shift the hub out... does anyone have a complete axle or half shaft they want to sell...? many thanks - in anticipation i can get my beautiful car back on the road - it only failed its mot on insufficient brake on the rear and now it is stuck on the ramp with no hope of moving it !!
many thanks pete
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Hi all... i have a tr4a american with the solid tr4 back axle, and my local garage who are brilliant cannot for love nor money push the shaft out of the hub to put the new seal in because it is leaking oil from the hub onto the shoes... they have a huge press and still cant do it ! any advice at all would be absolutely brilliant on where i can buy a complete half shaft with the hub attached or what you can do .... they have said they can cut the collar from the inside to remove the hub backwards down the shaft and put the seal in that way, but they dont know where you get new collars from and if you can fit them ... hope that makes sense !!
any help advice etc? many thanks pete
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as far as i know it goes pretty much straight in . mine was fitted when i got it and as far as steering goes there is no problem but i do run about 33 psi in the tyres but the sound of the 6 pot is just fantastic pete
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Hi Ben if you fancy a ride out one evening i dont mind meeting you about half way iam in between hereford and ledbury and have a tr4a with a 6 cylinder TR5/6 engine running on su carbs. only had for just over 2 years, so ive spent quite a bit of time, trying to gather information on them and getting an idea of values before i bought mine. i would guess we are about 40 miles apart, so happy to meet half way or if you want to make the full trip to mine, we can go for a good drive out and get it up in the shed for you to have a look at. when i was looking i had some fantastic advice from tr members and it certainly meant that when i found what i wanted i didnt end buying a bag of ****! i know you are looking for restoration, and you'll prob not but dont be fooled by the amount of hours and money that you can spend by these cars. i have nothing but total admiration for people who restore them, but in my case it was far far cheaper to buy one ready done! probably no where near as much fun but i think a little knowledge can be dangerous sometimes and no truer to car restoration!!
i do removals for a living and have done so most of my life, ive lost count of the number of projects ive seen going on in garages with rather fed up wives who will never get to be taken out in the summer evenings! best of luck pete
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hi can anyone tell me if 15" mgc wire wheels are the same as my tr4a in fitment terms, i know i have an old set of 72 spoke 15" wheels on my car, but the set i have found are new and advertised as mgc, will they fit and are they the same.
many thanks
pete
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hi - once again many thanks to all the people who passed on valuable information regarding my car, i know the link got hijacked a bit at the end, but thats the idea of a forum !!
in short, i fitted the new red rotor arm and distributor cap which gave me a fantastic spark, but as most people expected, the problem was the carbs and as people said, the satisfaction is with doing it yourself, and that is no more true than today for me.
i basically read a bit about what to do, fettled with the carbs as i knew they were basically brand new anyway and everything in them was brand new, and lo and behold the engine now sounds fantastically crisp and pulls superbly right through the rev range and in every gear.
went for a quick 100 mile blast today (chasing our local bike club) and pretty much kept up all around the route.
only thing to mention, in between crossgates and newtown (in wales for those who dont know)i passed a tr4/a in powder blue - either a works car or a works replica - what a great feeling i was fair tanking it the one way, lovely welsh roads, and to see what looked like a works car coming the other way was a fantastic feeling , unfortunately at the speed i was going i couldnt catch the reg no.
many thanks once again for everyones help
pete
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hi - many thanks for your responses so far - i myself was pretty sure that the problem was carb based - prob fuel or mixture or bit of both , but was going to get the electrical side spot on first as this is what i am capable of doing! i did buy a new distributor cap and red rotor arm at malvern as a spare so will stick that on and a brand new set of standard plugs which i am sure wont make any difference but at least then i will be assured the electrical side is spot on then. does anyone advise whether to tackle the carbs myself - i am pretty mechanically minded when it comes to engines, pistons etc, or shall i send the car to one of the specialists to get the carbs set up
many thanks for all your advice so far, pete
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just as in the title iam going to fit new plugs . Ive got a problem that in 1st and 2nd the car seems to pull ok past 3000 rpm but only ok but in 3 and 4 when the rpm reach 3000 it fluffs and spulters . Is there any benefit to iridium plug to justify ther money ?? The car is a tr4a with a 6 cylinder fitted on twin su. at malvern this year i fitted new eloctronic ignition and tuned the car but it did not alter it at all any help or advice would be gratefully received as overtaking is a pain thanks pete
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hi alan, did you sell your wire wheels or are you going to keep them ? i have a set of tr6 steel wheels inc centre caps, chrome trims nuts and tyres and 1 tr4a steel wheel wouldnt want to split the set of tr6 wheels up, but would love a tidy set of wires for my wheels and some cash if it is of any use to you? i dont mind selling the set of tr6 wheels to any one else if they are interested - thanks pete
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hi john , it would be probabley rude to ask a fellow member how much they paid for their car, but after 26 years its intriguing to know for some of us "tongue in cheek" younger/newer members.has it kept up with inflation???
thanks
pete
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hi stuart yes iam running silicon brake fluid thanks pete
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hi all ive been for a 120 mile jaunt in the sunshine today doesnt it just feel great ! only problem is brake servo appears to stick on . After breaking , when you release the pedal the brakes are still on if you blip the brake pedal again it instantly releases them or if you wait they appear to release after about 5 seconds - it doesnt do it every time but it is pretty regular. Any thoughts on if it is the servo? and can it be worked on ie. cleaned and oiled etc or is it a replacement part only?
thanks pete
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thanks to all three of you for your replys - i shall contact towergate today , but i think you have about hit the problem on the head for me - what i paid for the car last year, although a bit of a bargain at the time,and with the work i have done over the winter you would now not buy the car back for that sort of money, so shall take some photos and try and get it to a recognised dealer for a vaulation - hoping its all irrelevant and i never have to claim!!!
thanks pete
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hi all
after purchasing my tr4a last year, i have now completed a few jobs that needed doing , (not taking too much credit, most of it was done by the guy who restored the car!) i have had it out a few times in the dry over the winter to keep it running , but now it is time to get and drive it properly and therefore insure it properly (have only been using it on my motor trade policy up to now)
i would love to have an agreed valuation on it, how do i go about doing this? do most people recommend i use towergate?
thanks pete
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hi larry - one thing you could try is to wire the starter motor direct to the battery - obviously removing the main starter wire once it had started . that would then bypass the ignition switch and the solenoid, if the noise then disappears it would indicate a fault with the switch or solenoid, if the noise continues it would indicate a fault with the starter motor....... i have a similar problem with a modern lorry of mine, after starting the lorry and letting go of the key you get a terrible whine from the starter motor for about 5 seconds as the bendix disengages slowly down the shaft- if this is what you have i believe you have to take the starter out and clean and lubricate the shaft where the starter flies up. however - make sure other members recommend what i say - im not a mechanic, its just my cowboy mechanical knowledge of problems.
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hi and welcome i am also new to TR'ing having bought mine about 4 weeks ago , the problem i found was all the cars that seemed worth buying sold the same day they came on the market . when i test drove my first potential car that was up for sale it seemed slighty wandery and loose, but how do you judge a 45 year old car and more to the point 45 year technolgy ??? luckily i viewed a second car some weeks later and found it lovely and tight and totally rewarding to drive . if you intend to take the car off the road over winter simple checks with a gentle pri-bar will show how bad the play is in all the various ball joints and bushes .were there any advisories on the mot??? as far as alloys goes i have no knowledge i am a real wire wheel man - but only for the looks - i am vain i am afaid!. hope to meet you at one of next year's shows.... pete
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many thanks, to all the members who replied with reference to the wire wheels. i have taken on board all that you have said, especially the comments on wear and trying to marry up two worn parts together and expecting not to rattle and clunk. bearing in mind, i have only had tha car a fortnight and i am going to be cleaning it thoroughly in the shed over the winter til spring, i will save my pennies hard and invest my money in a completley new set of hubs and wheels! thanks to Ian on his comments on wire wheels verses steel wheels, i have no doubt steel wheels are far far stronger but unfortunately i am just vain!! needless to say you will see me round in the spring, my TR's not just for polishing, but will be driven properly to all events as well as planned continental touring next year. thanks pete
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hi all
i am quite new to TR s and as one or two of you may know i have recently bought a TR4A and wish to fit wire wheels, but some of the talk on various sites confuses me - am i being dim?
i obviously appreciate if you buy brand new wheels and spinners etc there wont be a problem when supplied from a recognised dealer, but when buying second hand, it seems that some wheels are classed as 42mm and 52mm i take it this is the inside diameter, do they all have the exact same number of spleins? how do i know if i am buying a set that the hubs fit those wheels and that they fit on my car ?
also i have heard references to 12 tpi and 8 tpi - what does this mean?
in short i would just love to find and bolt a set of wire wheels on to my car - ive found a set locally which look really nice but the guy doesnt know what they came off - how do i find out if they will fit the car?
would love as much info as possible please !!!
many thanks pete
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hi Roly have sent you a pm thanks pete
Bob Knapman, TR4A DCK 193C
in TRs Re-United
Posted
Hi Bob …. I’ve got your car and have had it now since 2009 . Would love you to get in touch many thanks Pete 07974048855 or if any member knows Bob could they pass this message on many thanks