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About cp7535he

  • Birthday 07/09/1948

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  • Location
    west sussex
  • Cars Owned:
    owned current Tr6 since 1976 Goodwood TR group & South Downs Tr Group

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  1. Ok John . I did some research on the sleeve chamfer as to which way it goes ~ It appears that there are two valid ways of doing it. with your suggestion the oil thrower is already on the crank then the timing cover is put on ~ before the fitting of the sleeve through the oil seal ~ visually it would more carefull lining up on the key of course . Plus when its a 'tight ' fit would most likely need the crank nut method as suggested by Peter W to install it . If required, at some later date on the cover being removed , the oil seal would be more likely to slip over the chamfer more
  2. Thanks John I will have a word with ethe engine builder cheers robin
  3. Hi Bruce ~ the picture does not reflect the real crank condition and the discolouration however caused , was not sufficient to cause me concern , once removed the woodruff keyway itself was quite clear of any rust .I do not retrospectively think it added to any differculty of extracting the old sproket using the bearing seperator method . cheers robin
  4. Ok I am dealing with a TR6 arrangement and looking at the Tr4 parts manual I see the two choices of thickness spacer [shim] are the same for both models. I have no idea if the Tr2 crank spacers options [shims] are of the same thickness . On my crank there was a spacer [ shim] already fitted . I simply replaced that as first step .However the alignment cannot be checked with a straight edge without the crank sproket being fitted . I have yet to do that as I have to fit the cam sprokett for the cam timing sequence. Using the crank bolt as described is a good idea . W
  5. Now ~ cleaned the crank with ali oxide paper 302 grade soaked with wd40 so that it was bright clean and then some ~ using a rotational movement .Also 'sanded' the new woodruff key sides then pleanty of copperslip pasted onto carnk and key used an oversize old lister spanner 7/8 whitworth to help get an even pressure on tapping home . Its easy to get the sproket and sleeve the wrong way arounf by the way I am putting on the sleeve / Oil Thrower after the cam timing cheers robin
  6. I have bought all new parts including the spacer/s behind the sproket. For this I have bought parts entirely from Revington I need to clean the crank end first and if I have differculty will use the old sproket as a 'punch face ' to get the new spoket at least lined up and partially in then a large box spanner to finish it off but I stress this is speculation right now ! Shape wise I guess a 'Presser ' would have the action of a G clamp but be Bell shaped and have fixing holes for the front engine plate howeveras I have an Ali front engine plate [ not the orginal steel one ] it m
  7. well , the bearing seperator worked a treat and I pulled off the sproket ,oil thrower and sleeve in one go with less than 50 ft ib on the torque wrench . Used a spare bit of metal over the crank end to get a good pull over the woodruff key which itself came out without too much wellie . If you check the pic closely you will see the discovery of a bent spacer behind the sproket ! thankyou chaps for the sucessful tech assist
  8. Ok : Its amazing when raising a subject just how many bods have been in the same situation ~ in my case the woodruff key is not coming out so I am about to pull both sprokett /oil thrower / sleeve off in one go . Revingtons use a hydraulic puller In my research's some one suggested using a can of gas coolant / freezer type to free the bit I wanted and this may be a way forward with the sleeve ie cooling the crank , however I must say this 'cure' is speculative ! I stay away from the sheds for vital parts like sproket / sleeve and use suppliers like revingt
  9. ok guys excellant pratical suggestions especially on the bearing seperator ~ many thanks Checked this out with Andy at Revington ~ they use a hydraulic puller with theirs ~ clearly for the pulling force I will try with a mechanical neilson heavy duty puller which I have ordered on flea bay .It will be all about the feet being able to notch with enough grip to pull both sleeve an spokett over the woodruff key Will post the result ! cheers robin
  10. ~ there is no info in the manual on this or on techicalities disc I need to remove the crank sproket with its spacer sleve ~ woodruff key is not wanting to move The key itself is a long one about 42 mm long and ends in the sproket itself Thinking of using a hub puller notched between the two sproket teeth rings ~ maybe try behind the oil thower on the sleeve first anyone else had problems with this thanks robin
  11. cp7535he


    Hi Waldi At present its not worth paying for a £75 hardness test [other than to satisfy my curiosity ] when I can use that money toward a new Cam + Followers Like most Tr engine problems , the actual cause may be different to the strongly suspected cause but in reality my time is now is set on rechecking the whole engine and to put a new cam in that I can trust .
  12. cp7535he


    peter ~ running in oil used bought from Classic & Modern workshop ~ unused cam other than 14 miles actual road use: cam damage not down to oil type used. I reckon that this ends the discussion loop .Thanks everyone robin
  13. cp7535he


    Looks like I have found one, my thanks to Len of Gwtr http://www.servisheattreatment.co.uk/quality/
  14. cp7535he


    thanks for that roger ~ I am going to search for a company that can test my cam for hardness, which I think is suspect . robin
  15. cp7535he


    Anyone know how hard a TR6 camshaft should be on the Rockwell scale ? Anyone know how much a TR6 camshaft weighs ? ta robin
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