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reginald

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Posts posted by reginald

  1. Hi

    I fitted CDD power steering over Christmas,  the earlier version ran from the crank pully as described in the instructions on their webb site.

    The latest version drives from the water pump pully with a shorter drive belt new pump supplied with double pully.

    My observation when fitting which I did my self. Do not fit with the engine lifting Eye which instructions say can be left on if wished, with it left on the pump  does not run square.

    The pump pully was 3mm out of alignment so I made some spacers to align it, this is noticeable with  the short belt, the older version with the longer belt to the crank would not have been noticable.

    The other issue I had was the front cross member in front of the engine. My car is a 75US car and the lugs which support the  radiator struts are below the bar

    Which ment they prevented the hoses being attached to the rack, I had to cut them off and re weld on top of the bar early cars ok google images helped on this to spot the deference. I think the original kit had a new one supplied looking at the kit diagram due to larger crank pully

    Lastly if webbers fitted and depending on filter type the mount bracket for the reseviour can't be used and has to be mount in a different position 

     I did pass my findings to Alistair at Stoneleigh triumph spares day

    Hope this is helpful  Richard

      

     

  2. There can be an issue with the master cylinder piston sitting further in than with original master cylinder, so the clearance can still be to big when measuring across with a straight edge. I had to adjust the rod further out to compensate, I used the original master cylinder to check this.

    Richard

  3. Hi

    Just looked at my wheels they don't have ET markings on them. I have 1/4" spcers on the front to stop any contact issues with suspension on full lock.  I purchased mine from TR enterprises about 7 years ago.

    I was speaking to Ian Inglis (iani on this forum) a month back he has same miniltes but had them made with no need for a spacer

    Not sure where he purchased from but may be worth getting in contact

    Regards Richard

  4.  Hi

    Be aware that 035" gap may be correct measuring against the servo face, but  the piston in the master cylinder can sit further in especially if not nos parts causing a bigger gap, I had a problem with long movement and trouble bleeding with new master cylinder checked against original one and piston was to far in, so adjusted nut to compensate.  The 035" wood have been bigger to tighten up gap. An expantion gap should be there between servo rod and piston , 

    Richard

  5. Hi

    Double checked

    First size bore .860"   piston is .847" dia

    Second step down bore is .812"   piston is  .807" dia

    This is from an original 1975 master cylinder   other years may be different ??

    Regards Richard 

  6. Hi

    Just checked a an orginal 1975 brake master cylinder. 

    Not sure of the servo  inner dia.   Approx 6' 225"

    Master cylinder First bore is .860"  55/64"  then steps down to .847"   13/16"

    Regards Richard

  7. Hello and apologies from a register member for not stopping to help, I was driving along the military road in the family car when the family shouted out tr6 and I was just happy to see one and reconised your car from the forum, had not realised you had broken down or would have stopped.

    Hope got home and sorted ok

    Apologies again Richard

  8. Hi,

    I fitted a new steel carrier(unknown manufacture from a trade stall at stoneleigh) which had a smaller bore than the original worked fine on the bench but in use was very stiff so I Brought a bronze carrier and it was still binding on the shaft giving a hard clutch I got my brother to cylindrical grind it out  to the standard steel size as the bore was smaller and it has since work fine, it appeares to me that bore to shaft clearance is quite critical to getting a smooth working clutch. Which ever carrier material is used

    Richard

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