Kevin Warrington
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Posts posted by Kevin Warrington
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Looks very nice, why has it silver wheel centres if its a CP ? or have i missed something
*Is* it a CP?? Mine was built in Aug 73 and registered in March 74 and is a CR. Or have *I* missed something?
Kevin
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Thanks all for the usual speedy and helpful advice. It confirms my gut feeling!
The car was completely rebuilt about 10 years ago. It's done around 15k miles since then. I'll have to look through the log to see what (if any) work has been done on the UJ's etc. Certainly none in the 5 years that I've owned it, other than routine servicing, which has always been carried out by CTM Engineering.
Regards
Kevin
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This has got me stumped as well. After a long run, I;ve noticed that the rear nearside wheel on my 6 radiates heat. The spinner for the wire wheel is warm and the brake drum is very hot to the touch. Whereas the offside one is barely warm. The brakes were completely replaced last year as a result of laying the car up for a year or so and my first thought was that one side was binding.
However, with the handbrake off and the car stood on the level, it offers almost no rolling resistance at all, so it doesn't seem as though the brakes are binding.
The wheel doesn't appear to be loose in any way and there's no usual sound of worn out bearings (although I've posted another cry for help on a transmission type noise)..
Any suggestions?
Regards
Kevin
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Probably yet another dumb Kevin question... (but if you don;t ask, you don't learn)
We took our 6 out for the first decent long run of the year (Wessex TR Group spin around the wilds of Dorset and Wiltshire). Coming back, giving it a bit of a blast along the M27, there is an ominous noise and vibration throughout the car at speeds between 65 and 70 (perhaps a little faster) when transitioning between the rear wheels being under power and the engine being on the over-run. It lasts just a few seconds, sounds like tyre rumble and can be felt through the car as a vibration. At lower speeds, you don't notice it. Driving in fast motorway traffic where you tend to be accelerating and coasting, it is very apparant. On rare occasions, I've felt a very slight "clonk" when reversing out of the garage - just like Triumph Heralds used to do - and on some other occasions, I;ve heard a noise that sounds like a large sheet of plastic has been caught round the prop-shaft (which it hasn''t, because I've checked). Both the latter only seem to happen when very cold.
Could anyone care to offer any suggestions as to what it might be?
Regards
Kevin
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You could also try Colin Matthews at CTM Engineering (listed in the suppliers directory). He's located near to Botley in Hampshire - midway between Portsmouth and Southampton. He looks after my 6 for me - the place is always busy and as a general observation, his workshop is always clean and tidy.
Kevin
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My 6 only usually goes out on dry days, but we seem to be getting a lot of cold crisp and dry winter days of late, so it occurred to me it would be nice to go out in the winter. For a bit of comfort, I've been thinking about a hard top as it might be a little less drafty than the soft top. Good quality original hard tops seem to be as rare as either hens teeth or rocking horse droppings and the ones I've seen on Ebay always seem to need vast amounts of work (and from the previous posts, its fairly clear that I'm not really as practical as I think I am!) - a friend pointed me in the direction of Rimmer's web site where there are composite reproductions available, covered in black vinyl (perfect for a 70's car - do they sell fluffy dice as well?????
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Two questions (starter for 10) - Does anyone have any experience of these that they could share - particularly quality and fit?
and your bonus for 15 - It seems as though the soft top has to come off to fit the hard top. Looking at parts manuals and my workshop manual, it seems that the bolts that hold the frame to the side need to come out (I think they are actually screw headed) and there seem to be 4 or 5 hex head bolts that secure the soft top to the rear deck - these obviously need to come out. I'm assumming that when these bolts come out, the soft top just lifts off. Am I right? Does removing these bolts affect the tightness of the fit of the soft top?
Regards
Kevin
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My 6 only usually goes out on dry days, but we seem to be getting a lot of cold crisp and dry winter days of late, so it occurred to me it would be nice to go out in the winter. For a bit of comfort, I've been thinking about a hard top as it might be a little less drafty than the soft top. Good quality original hard tops seem to be as rare as either hens teeth or rocking horse droppings and the ones I've seen on Ebay always seem to need vast amounts of work (and from the previous posts, its fairly clear that I'm not really as practical as I think I am!) - a friend pointed me in the direction of Rimmer's web site where there are composite reproductions available, covered in black vinyl (perfect for a 70's car - do they sell fluffy dice as well?????
).
Two questions (starter for 10) - Does anyone have any experience of these that they could share - particularly quality and fit?
and your bonus for 15 - It seems as though the soft top has to come off to fit the hard top. Looking at parts manuals and my workshop manual, it seems that the bolts that hold the frame to the side need to come out (I think they are actually screw headed) and there seem to be 4 or 5 hex head bolts that secure the soft top to the rear deck - these obviously need to come out. I'm assumming that when these bolts come out, the soft top just lifts off. Am I right? Does removing these bolts affect the tightness of the fit of the soft top?
Regards
Kevin
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what a nightmare job! I spent most of yesterday removing the two handles. The door handle pin came out quite easily, but the window winder was a disaster. The pin came loose without too much trouble, but got wedged between the locating hole and the rim of the handle. It took two of us, three screwdrivers and two pair of pliers to eventually remove it.
The door trim then came off without too much effort. Fortunately, the doors had also been lined with plastic, so had kept waterproof. Then came the task of installing the new trim. I've taken trims off and replaced them on other cars, but always put back the trims that came off (you can probably see where this is leading!). I could get most, but never all, the clips to align with the holes.
Fearing that I was going to make a total hash of the whole job and in any case not be satisfied with my ham fisted attempts, I'm going to admit my limits and get the trim kit installed professionally. We have a good trimmer close by who repaired the hood for me last year (I ripped the zip in the rear window). The chap that runs the place did an apprenticeship workiing for a Triumph dealer and retrims things like Ferraris. It'll all be worth it in the end...
Meanwhile, the new leather seats that we ordered from the TR Shop have also arrived. Very impressed - good quality leather, lots of padding and a good pattern match for the original TR seats. The bit that you sit on is longer, so more leg support as well.
I think I'll limit my efforts to tidying some of the wiring and reinstalling the radio. At least I know what I'm doing with electrickery stuff
K
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Many thanks for all the advice. It looked like such a simple job... I shall spend the day cursing and swearing in the garage, I expect. This is one of those jobs that has just grown and grown (don't they always?).
There was nothing wrong with the interior trim in the first place - we just found the seats to be uncomfortable and are updating them with some new leather ones. But as you can't get these in shadow blue, I was told by the one who normally sits in the passenger seat that the rest of the interior would need to be changed to match.
Seasons greetings to all
K
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Santa has brought me a new interior trim kit for my 6. He's delivered it a few days early!! I'm struggling with removing the existing door trims, so looking for help.
According to the factory manual in 76.34.01, it tells me to "depress the bezel and push out the pin" for both the window winder and and door handle. I've depressed the bezel as hard as I can with my fingers, but can't find any pin. It's hard to see from the diagram whether pin is in the bezel or in the handles (I suspect the latter).
Assumming that there's someone here who's done this before, what am I doing wrong? Am I looking in the right place, even?
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Hi Kevin
The wiring on the six comes in two parts usually joined on the passenger side footwell with a solid connector or bullet depending on the year of your car.
John
This looks like it is the wiring for the overdrive. Most of it will be hidden when the dash support and the side bits that hold the speakers get put back on. There's been a bit of hacking about of the wiring. Fortunately, it's all good quality "hacking about" - proper bullet connectors on the joins and all well crimped. I was originally an electronics engineer, so am not too fazed by car electrics and spent several months working in a wiring shop 30 odd years ago. Main objective is to get it all looking neat and tidy when the trim goes back in.
As is usually the case, what started off as a simple job to replace the seats has now turned into let's retrim the car while we're at it, upgrade the stereo, tidy the wiring, replace the air vent pipes as they look a bit tired (or are missing) and any lother little job that comes to mind while we're at it...
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we took a tip to Chiswick last Saturday. Net result being that we decided to order a set of seats and a new trim kit. I've also just bought a new radio (never happy with the previous one - it just wasn't fitted properly and suffered from poor reception, lack of features and no cd player. As a result, the dash support (whihc I guess is what you called the H piece?) came out today and I can now see how most of the trim is going to come out and go back in again
It doesn't look too difficult (I may regret writing that, of course) However, having done a bit of demolition, I did find that the wiring has been chopped about quite a bit - it also#most looks like 2 complete wiring looms have been joined together with bullet connectors. I'll have to check that over while I'm at it, I think.
The seats are well made with decent quality hides and a big improvement on the standard item. They do look the part as well
K
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As if anyone's son would wind up their father!!. He is correct, as it is mooted that the 1st test will be after 4 years and then every 2 years. This was in the Daily Mail so it must be true
I heard on the Radio (4, I think) that as part of the Government's plan to reduce the amount of gold plating of European legislation, consideration is being given to harmonising MOT's with the European norm - which is, as previously said the first test after 4 years and then every other year. It's a rather curious example to pick as it wasn't EU legislation in the first place
Kevin
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I'm contemplating updating the trim in my TR6. It's generally OK and in good order, but the colour is a little faded (the car is Sapphire Blue and the trim is a light blue). If I do it, I've noticed that the TRshop in Chiswick (or somewhere in that vague area) has got new leather seats and matching trim on offer.
So... two questions:
1. Has anyone tried these seats? Are they comfortable?
2. My car was bought totally restored, so I've never had the joy of taking out, or putting back in trim panels. It doesn't *look* too difficult. Would anyone like to comment on the difficulty of the task and especially any crafty tips to make the job easier. Especially the carpet over the transmission tunnel and below the gearlever shroud that looks a little tricky.
The TRshop advert shows a Sapphire blue car with cream trim. If I decide to go ahead (And if I csn convince the domestic chancellor to release the funds!), I'll probably go with that colour scheme
Interior Refit
in TR6 Forum
Posted
I recently retrimmed my 6 with trim kit, carpets and new leather seats from the TR Shop. Absolutely delighted with everything - perfect colour match between trim, seats and carpet and the new seats are brilliantly comfortable.
Kevin