Kevin Warrington
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Posts posted by Kevin Warrington
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Right.... Got the tool, got the new weather strips, plus new fitting clips - 2 different sorts, silver springs for the external rubber strip and black springs with a little hook to hold the internal, felt type stuff.
The old strip has been removed - took some doing and resulted in using a small screwdriver as a lever to spring the clips off. Door card also removed to collect the old springs from the bottom of the door as I don't want these to rust and spread rust to my doors. The old strip was as hard and brittle as plastic and split for about 4 inches from the rear
Now I come to the tricky bit. I've read and re-read the advice above - it sounds so simple, but I cannot get the clips to go over the metal of the door and also over the metal in the base of the weather strip.
Is it just a matter of gently opening the edges of the spring clips, or am I missing something here? It all looks so simple
Kevin
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Hi, Rog -
Thanks for your lead - by an amazing co-incidence, I found that late last night and bought one immediately.
Kevin
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Thanks, all. Two further questions: (1) where do I get the tool from (do I make it?) (2) does the glass have to come out to fit the stip and the clip?
Kevin
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The weatherstrips on both door windows have perished and I'm sure will let in water if I get caught out in the rain. This is the strip that rubs against the side windows. So I'd better get them replaced. I've seen that Moss do a complete kit with the weatherstrip, the castellated bracket thingy and a bag of spring clips to hold it all together.
I can't find anywhere in my servcie manual how to remove and replace the strip - it looks like a job that will need doing from time to time, so can anyone give me some tips on how to do it, preferably without a full rebuild that most of my little projects seem to turn into!
Hopefully, will find someone selling the bits I will need at Stoneleigh on Sunday.
Regards
Kevin
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And before any one suggests it, I have not got one of those sparkmatic earthing strips hanging from the rear bumper.
how about a chain hanging down from the chassis instead of an earth chain? Not seen one of those for years!
Kevin
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according to the heritage certificate for my 6, that too was hanging around looking for a buyer for about 8 months after it was built. Similarly, my other Triumph was also without an owner for around 6 months when that was first built. The '6 was built in August 1973 but not registered until March 74.
I have memories of the papers at the time being full of stories and pictures of airfields crammed full of finished but unsold cars, much of it being "knocking copy" on the woes of British Leyland and their inability to sell cars. So maybe it wasn't that unusual for finished stock to sit in fields gently rusting away.
Regards
Kevin
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Mine's been running rich (as those who were behind me on the Greek trip know only too well!)
It turned out to be the cable to the cold start lever on the metering unit was very slightly tight and thus the mixture was being enriched. The clamp is a little loose and with the cable being a bit tight, the arm was being pulled forwards a little - last thing to be looked at as everythng else was as it should have been.
Kevin
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Pirelli P6000's on mine. Seem fine to me, although no experience of anything else. The tyres on the front are at least 5 years old and no sign of any cracking in the sidewalls.
Kevin
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I'm not a Chemical Engineer by any means, but have also used Millers stuff in various unleaded vehicles. There was some report that I have seen in the past (I think it may have been referenced from Miller's web site) that had the FBHVS test results on it. However, the compelling reason for me to use it is that the cehemistry is such that it will mix with anyother additive without making sludge in the tank. I understand that if you were to mix up some of the other chemicals, the resultant jollup can precipitate and leave you with goodness knows what in solid form in the fuel. For the same reason, there was also a recommendation that if using LRP, that you only used the one brand (although how do you really know what is in the pumps?).
The 2 point octane boost is an advantage as well.
Regards
Kevin
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Thanks for letting us all know the outcome. it seems amazing that you can get 2 faults at the same time, but it happens to me all the time
K
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yes - very strange. Assumming that the battery is OK, as a rule of thumb the battery would need about 75% of its nominal full charge to start the engine. Typical capacity is around 80 amp-hours, so you would need to "loose" something like 20 amp-hours before you had starting problems, which in 10 minutes would imply something like a current draw of 120 amps. For the purists, I know that there are some appalling generalisations here. So while it might be "connected", it might be a red-herring as 120 amps is more-or-less welding things and well in excess of what the wiring or the fuses would stand and you would probably be seeing smoke. So perhaps you have another problem in that the alternator is not charging. This might be something - the excitement voltage for the alternator is fed via the so-called ignition light and I think I would be very inclined to check the wiring to make sure nothing has fallen off
Kevin
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Have you made any changes or additions to the wiring, or have you only recently bought the car? I've got my "Owner's Guide" book in front of me - it is a reprint by Brooklands Books and the wiring diagram is hopelessly incorrect in that the numbers shown in the key do not match up to the numbers in the wiring diagram.
Looking at the factory workshop manual, I can see that the light is fed directly from the ignition switch and earthed through the pressure switch. So you'll have a wire from the switch to one side of the bulb carrier and from the other side of the bulb carrier to the oil pressure switch. When the pressure is low, the swich closes, earths the circuit and the bulb lights. As pressure rises, the switch opens and the light goes out.
With the ignition on, but the engine not running, locate the oil pressure switch (I think it is down the front at the bottom of the block on the nearside). Pull the wire off and the light should go out. Or, perhaps, more exactly in your case, a light *somewhere* might go off. Put the wire back on the switch and the light (or a light) should come back on. It might be as Tim has just written that bulb holders have got crossed somewhere, although that would not explain why the ign light was on when the ignition was off.
Kevin
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This problem must be infectious. Our 6 has developed a similar problem. 3 weeks ago on one of those rare Sunday afternoons when the sun shone, we went for a little drive around the area just to give the car a run. After about 5 miles, it developed a dreadful misfire. As it was due a visit to CTM for preparation for the Euromeet jolly, this was added to the list of things to be sorted. I had a quick look before and found that the spark across the points was feeble and yellow, not the usual big fat blue spark. So the condensor got replaced. Now got a proper spark, but car still didn't run properly.
Got it back on Friday (much additional work found along the way) - Colin had tested the injectors and replaced the O rings, plus cleaned up the plugs. Plus recon distributor as the advance / retard was sticky on the original. It ran perfectly for about 30 or 40 miles - all the way to the Hampshire Pageant at Romsey when it developed a misfire (remember how Del-boy's van sounds - well, just like that).
Plugs 3 and 4 oiled up, all others fine. Fitted new plugs, runs fine for 5 miles and then the same problem. Plugs 3 and 4 oiled up again. New disti cap and ht leads fitted, plugs cleaned, still get the same problem. The problem is unique to cylinders 3 and 4. All the ignition compnents have been changed, the fuel injection system checked and we still have the problem. Current situation - an exchange head is being built up for a swap early next week which we hope will fix the problem. Plus a new fuel pump as the existing one is making odd noises and smells a little of fuel.
*Why* does it run fine all year until a couple of weeks before the Euromeet???????????
Kevin
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I can see it now I look much closer at the full size image. Thank goodness for that - I thought I had entirely messed up with the roof on mine... Must get eyes tested......
Kevin
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This is probably a really daft question - but nothing ventured, nothing gained, as they say:
Ron - in your picture of the outside, it appears as though the flappy bits that locate against the trailing edge of the shut door glasses are on the *outside* of the glass. It might just be an illusion from the photo, but hat's how it looks to me. If the flaps are on the outside, how do you open and close the doors? Or do you lower the window every time? Or should I take more note of the card from Boots in the post this morning telling me my eyesight exam is overdue
Reason for asking is that I have the same hood on mine, although my roof is a black one. Agree entirely on previous sentiments about colour of the car, though...
Regards
Kevin
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Wasn't this one up for sale a short while back? There was a long thread about what it would fetch. Might be a different car, of course - but the very low mileage and the colour ring bells. I'm pretty sure last time round it was in Bournemouth or thereabouts. Maybe it's yet another con
Kevin
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Wasn't an EMU something built by the Southern Railway???? Hope my limited advice helped in solving the problem. Re the smoke - as has been pointed out before, all Lucas electricals rely on the smoke to work - once the smoke escapes, you've got problems. (It was an "in-joke" in the electronics industry for years that all electronics worked on smoke because we all had clear evidence that once the smoke got out, it stopped working)
Kevin
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Mike - you could be onto something here. I once had a similar problem on an old Bedford OB coach that I used to own, but in this case it was the headlights. They would work for just a couple of minutes and then fail - giving all the signs of a blown fuse. Eventually, this turned out to be a poor connector into an inline fuse holder which was inadequate for the current being passed. This was causing the plastic to melt and for the fuse to loose contact. Removing the fuse and relacing it solved the problem in the short term, just like we have in this case.
So, Robin, it might just be worth checking your fuses have actually blown if you have a multimeter (set it to ohms range - a good fuse should be almost zero ohms - actual reading will vary depending on the meter). If the fuses are not actually blowing, clean up the contacts with a bit of fine emery cloth and gently squeeze the contacts so that they make a tighter contact with the fuse.
Kevin
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Hi, John - well, it's actually not my car that's got the problem - it's Robin's.
But mine has what I think of as the "traditional" Triumph overdrive switch on the steering column.
There's also Vehicle Wiring Products that sell virtually everything you could possibly need to mend wiring. Used them many times - good prices and quick delivery
Kevin
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Well, that would be the case if the insulation was pinched enough to "leak". Would would then happen (concievably) would be heating of the plastic insulation allowing more conductor to be exposed and become grounded until the fuse blows. Then once the fuse has blown, the insulation will creep back into place as the plastic cools - to blow a 35A fuse requires just under half a kilowatt of power, so there would be plenty of heat available! There would be a tell-tale sign of either burnt or melted insuation on the affected wire. In which case it would be best to cut out and replace the wire, using the same gauge and ideally colour.
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I'm by no means an expert on cars, but know just enough about electrikery to be dangerous (formerly a computer engineer by trade before they shoved me into a sales job to stop causing anymore damage)!
If the problem has only started ocurring since removing the H frame and carpets, then it is possible that you have disturbed something. The quickest way to solve the problem is by elimination. I'd disconnect each circuit in turn, one by one and wait to see if the fuse still blows. As the H frame is reasonably close to the where the overdrive electrics pass through the floor of the car (at least, on my 6, it is), I think I'd be inclined to start here.
I'm a bit puzzled why the fuse takes 5 minutes to blow, though - if you've caught a wire and damaged the insulation, you'd expect the fuse to blow immediately, or at least as soon as the affected circuit is used. When you get these failures after a few minutes, it is sometimes heat related, But I'd still have a look at each circuit in turn and see if you can isolate the problem first.
For the sake of safety, when working on electrics, remove all watches and rings (it may only be 12v, but there is enough energy in the battery to cause some nasty injuries) and ideally disconnect the battery when fiddling with the wiring. You'll need to reconnect the battery for each test, of course.
Kevin
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This got sorted today as well. It turned out to be a very worn UJ. I've never seen a conical yoke before... I think I'm very lucky that the prop shaft didn't drop off
.
Kevin
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This is a follow up to something I started in January. The car went to CTM this week to have this problem sorted - it did, indeed, turn out to be a collapsed flexible hose that was doing a wonderful impersonation of a non-return valve.
Kevin
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Thanks to all for help. can anyone advise on what i would expect to pay for the materials? As a new boy to tr6, i have the Rimmer Bros catalogue for price ideas and thats about all.
I think from memory that new leather seats and trim kit from the TR shop are a shade under £1000. I paid a local trimmer £300 to fit the lot in the end as I decided it was above my level of incompetance
Kevin
side window weatherstrips
in TR6 Forum
Posted
Thanks, Alec. I'm always a bit wary of applying too much brute force (and ignorance) as I break things! When you can feel the whole of the car lifting as I try to secure the clips, you start to think that something isn't quite right.
Kevin