CP26309
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Posts posted by CP26309
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The 'Continental Cooling Kit' (Cooling Coil) was a Triumph accessory, I added. Note the rubbish masking by my cars painter! Lazy whatsit! Grrrr!
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Hasn't anyone show 'Percy TR6' the original Lucas set up? I haven't changed my petrol filter for years and years and years, doesn't seem to effect it.
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My front indicators started flashing the side lights until I cleaned all the push in connectors, they do oxidise after time.
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My experience of a fierce TR6 Petrol Injection fire (Class 'B') years ago made me realise you need a big extinguisher, and CO2 leaves no mess or residue. A 2kg is only 30 odd quid!
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On 11/13/2021 at 8:33 AM, Z320 said:
I have also some special things in my TR with me:
- one bracket for the lower wishbone to the frame
- two meter of PVC hose d=8 mm to get petrol out anywhere + half a meter stainless tube d=15 mm
- a wooden lath with marks 10 l, 20 l,….up to 50 l- a wire wheels center nut spanner
- behind the seats a 1 liter FOAM fire extinguisher ( no powder, please)
- a Swiss knife with long fixable blade and cork puller
- some of my favorite KNIPEX pliers
I carry a 2kg CO2,
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So is it the original standard filter like you see in my photo above?
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Nothing wrong with the Lucas Pump! As I have said many times before on this forum..."If it was good enough for 2 decades in Formula One on the Cosworth DFV, it's good enough for our Pi cars!" True unlike the Saloon Pi cars where it has the space to lay on it's side, the limited space in the Roadster means it's upright sitting on it thrust washer which can cause it to overheat if you haven't got a "Continental Cooling Kit" as Triumph named the Coil that surrounds the electric motor! Since fitting mine way back in 1972 I had no trouble with overheating. In fact I find the hum from the pump quite reassuring, as opposed to the 'Screech' which is quite distinctive when it did let me know it was overheated!
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On 11/6/2021 at 8:40 AM, Tim D. said:
This is what I had in my boot when I cleaned it out a rationalised stuff before the RBRR. I had accumulated a lot if stuff. Mostly packed around the spare wheel. I was really pleased I pack a spare accelerator cable pm the 2018 event as it snapped <20 miles from the end.
Tim
What! No Fire Extinguisher!!!
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As a retired Sign writer (as in real paint not vinyl) of vehicles (and owner of a paint code 19 TR) I can assure you that all paint colours fade and are a black art to match!
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Here's the later type boxed in center mounts. Your early bumper hasn't got the sides boxed in, so I'm sure your local engineers could tweek the brackets a touch.
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On 10/23/2021 at 11:32 PM, Mark69 said:
Hi Kelly, early ones do come up occasionally, just have to keep looking . All repo ones are the later type.
I picked a decent one from stoneleigh tr mg show which needed a re chrome, cost me about £550 all in but pleased with results. Needed a fair bit of repair work.
In the summer I sold a later type front bumper with near perfect chrome and no rust inside to a fellow TR owner who wouldn't pay me 200, so I had to agree to less!
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That's a sad story, at least you got your car back! During the 1980's a friend arranged for my car to be stored in a barn...years later by chance I heard he had died and I only just managed to claim my car back in the nick of time. Phew! I once noticed that original parts on my early 1969 car had been replaced for no real reason when it was in a place that specialised in our cars, where I noticed they had other very early cars being worked on...Clearly my bits got swapped hoping I (wouldn't care) or notice and I didn't for quite some time! So I stopped using them! When the black crackle paint peeled off in places on my plenum I got it chromed...Not very original, but it added a bit of under bonnet bling that I missed from my previous TR4, which had chrome rocker covers.
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On 10/25/2021 at 7:09 PM, Scaf said:
Forgive me for not knowing but can I buy refurbished injectors from outright, or is it an exchange service.
I use the TR Shop in Chiswick...they offer a postal service for exchange refurbished and brand new ones.
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On 10/12/2021 at 7:24 AM, Scaf said:
Interesting - I will have to try various “starting” techniques including giving the pump time to build up pressure.
thanks
Yes! I leave mine (Lucas) for several minutes as it has to build up over 100psi... and fuel doesn't get to all the injectors instantly...as with each crank of the engine fuel is slowly making it's way up to each one...I've had mine for over 40 years...they ain't 'Turn Key' ! I live in Hemel BTM.
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Defiantly change the Thrust Washers, preferably with bronze ones, not the white metal ones!
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2 hours ago, jerrytr5 said:
All ?
Why would that be then? It's connected to the chassis and has a cast casing. Are we talking about a TR6?
Jerry
Because the two bolts that hang the TR6 diff from the cross brace are known to be weak at those two points ! So why risk straining them?
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As a rule I never jack up one corner, as our original chassis aren't getting any younger or stronger! I use two small hydraulic jacks and lift both together when lifting the front, back or sides of the car.
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Also, although they came originally without door mirrors, you might find it useful to fit one on the drivers door, or both doors.
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Nice, I like Red ones... but who ever painted your Kamm tail did it wrong, and you are missing the TR6 decals on the rear wings.
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Much safer to test them one at a time in as I said using a Jam jar with the injector through a hole in the lid.
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I use a Robinsons Jam Jar, with a hole in the lid!
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Looks like a nice tidy later CP Pi car. Main thing to check is the thrust washer wear...Use a screwdriver on the Crank Pulley fore and aft against the cross brace bar...All being well (fingers crossed) any movement will be tiny! Your injector fuel lines are all over the place, and should be gathered together with a tie to make it look neater.
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Ah okay... hence the CR updates like the inertia switch, and the later molded rubber inlet tubes!
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Derek...I always thought CP25001 was the very first CP commission number? Interesting the two return springs to the plenum.
TR6 Tyres
in TR6 Forum
Posted
Colin stick to the correct 165 or 185 what the axles etc were designed for! Modern tyres are so superior in terms of grip already to what they put on them 50 years ago, so there's no need for fat tyres that only stress old components!