CP26309
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Posts posted by CP26309
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A few years ago my local TR specialist fitted my car with a new pair of the TR Shops Heavy Duty Drive Shafts, 200 quid each. Still all good, probably because my cars always had the correct width wheels and 165 tyres.
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You may recall last August I posted here how my RAC recovery man wired up my new points incorrectly. If not...it was one of those red hot 32 deg (Celsius) days and after sitting in a traffic jam for some time as I drove off the car became undrivable! Pulled over and discovered no spark at the Dizzy! Called out the RAC who discovered it wasn't the Coil, so I guessed it must be the Condenser? Called a mate who arrived with a new one and new Points. RAC man fitted both...still no spark! After being towed home, I found RAC had earthed the live to ground! But the original fault wasn't the Condenser! It was the original Points...the Nut on the post had been overtightened and the Sprint had cut into the fiber base insulating washer! So lesson learned...don't over tighten the Nut...and use the Points that have Nylon washers!
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A lesson I learned in many years of Kart racing, Cycling, and Cars, is that wire Cables should be replaced fairly often! Also 'Always' add a 'Solderless Nipple' after the pinch nut on any cable! On a Kart it'll prevent you losing the race...on a Bicycle it'll save you from brake failure...and on your TR from not being able to open your Engine Cover! Been there done all the above!
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Picture? When my crank pulley got noisy...I found it was due to one of the two dowels not having been engaged after an engine rebuild...The crank woodruff key slowly enlarged the slot in the softer pulley! A replacement pulley was unavailable back then (is it now?) ! So I had the woodruff slot welded up, and I filed it to fit, making sure I got 'both' dowels engaged. So I assume your previous owner resorted an alternative pulley of some sort to fit after a similar problem?
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I should have mention also that the TR Registers own TR2 came 3rd overall in CWW's top 40 Classic car stories. Apparently it was driven on an epic tour this year of all of the various TR Register Group areas!
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Cheers Steve-B
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Just a heads up...this Wednesday issue of Classic Car Weekly (14/21 Dec) features an early TR6 Pi, (White, with wire wheels like mine) I was initially disappointed it was only ranked 20th out of 40 Classic cars in their annual review!...Until I realised it was more to do with each cars individual story! The TR in question was one of the 4 original cars loaned out by Triumph to various Motoring Press journalists. Good double page spread about the car as tested by CCW, and by the original Press journalist. Worth a read guys.
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On 12/7/2022 at 8:57 PM, DRD said:
Do you have any actual evidence for this?
Only that the original engineers would have calculated the stresses and loads on the original spec components (plus a bit extra)...But how much extra? All I know is on track days I broke standard components under stress! So why add more stress it wasn't designed to handle? Also in an traffic accident, Insurance investigators love finding non manufacturers spec components to get out of paying up!
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2 hours ago, astontr6 said:
They beefed up the single + wire in the summer of 1972 but I do not known about the - wire. I beefed up my earth wire when I went to a Bosch pump, to cut down volt drop but the real cure for me is to use the 18ACR alternator which generates those extra amps. I have used one for 50 years.
Bruce.
My Bosch pump has worked for over 40 years! I have never had the harmonic banging because I worked in the death and destruction market where we suppled the Aerospace Industry and the MOD. I was using PTFE hoses 40+ years ago long before Malcom did?
Bruce.
So it is 'Rocket Science'!
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So...the Bosch pump is even more problematic than the original Lucas pump then? My Lucas pump has only let me down once in 50 years! That was back in the summer of 1972 when I drove the length of France in one day...The following morning it screeched...and stopped! I took it apart...cleaned the commutator, and it worked again! Tricky bit was keeping the points apart...which was achieved with two lengths of cotton...as the motor assemble was lowered into position! Back home I was told by Lucas to fit their 'International Cooling Kit'! Which as we all know is just a coil of metal fuel pipe...Well it works...and I haven't had any bother with it since! The best solution really is to remount the pump sideways like Triumph did in the P1 Saloons boot...Or at least add an internal cool duct or pipe, that picks up airflow from the underside of the wheel arch.
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Modern tyres are so superior in construction and Grip compounds these days compared to the 'wooden things' we had on our TR6's 50 years! So their is absolutely no need to exceed the original 165 tyre for road use. As I always say you wouldn't put fat tyres on a DB6, so would you on a TR6? Some say 'It's personal choice!' I say 'the axle stubs and bearings weren't designed to take the extra loadings'. Also if you haven't got a brand new chassis...then modern 165 tyres probably exceed the grip for the chassis anyway!
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Re: Condensation & Ventilation...I have a single brick built garage at the bottom of my garden that has a concrete floor, a flat wooden roof, and a steel up an over garage door. I've always covered my car with the top down (I never use it) with a soft cloth car cover, after it has cooled down. Sometimes from November onwards I found all metal objects around the garage were covered in moisture droplets! And during extended winter storage mold grew on the leather steering wheel and the vinyl seat back tops!!! This all stopped when I added a Dehumidifier which I leave running continuously winter and summer. I was amazed how quickly the internal catch bucket filled up! But adding a hose that goes out through a hole in the wall saved me the chore of emptying it, while it waters the garden at the same time!
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My standard Lucas Pi (CP) is the total opposite to AlexB. It starts first time when hot or still warm, but is a devil to start when it hasn't been used for a month. I have to leave the starter motor engaged for ages chasing it until enough cylinders are firing and it can run on it's own without starter motor engaged. Then I reset the Cold Start in stages as it warms up.
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So? I've owned my car over 50 years, and like originality too, but it became a bit of a faff to dig out the 'O' ring and clean out the bowl and all the bits on the bolt. Then there's the chance albeit small of cross threading it! After reading about the oil flow back here that was it for me so I decided to add a Spin on! It's not as if the original stock horizontal bowl can't be refitted if needs beat any time...So I just cleaned the old bowl and put it in my spares cupboard, together with all the other old original parts, like the original 15" steering wheel etc.
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I always make sure I get the injectors with the 'Pintail'. I find I can pull these with my finger and thumb nails. But yes always carry spare injectors. I'll try that full rich trick next time! For testing injectors I use a jam jar with a hole in the lid.
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At the end of the day our TR's are just Cars...now Very Old cars (unless you have recently rebuilt yours on a brand new chassis) whatever works for you is all you need to know! keeping these old cars running is what it's all about, in my case over 50 years and counting. It rides nicely and works as it should most of the time! Here endeth the lesson!
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Just weighed my standard spare stove enameled wire wheel, equipped with a standard 165 tyre...20 Kilos!!! 2 Stone in old money!!!
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On 9/12/2022 at 10:46 PM, ntc said:
If you can’t jack up at one corner and open the doors you have a problem!
Me doors open just fine thanks!
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Well that was a smelly ole job...given me a thumping headache! Not sure how often they are supposed to be changed? Hopefully not again in my lifetime!
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What! Don’t have enough hands or clamps! I’ll drain the tank!
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Yes, you say to having to drain the tank! Okay, what a pain!
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Tanks only quarter full, surely you don’t have to drain the tank?
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Cracked off the Centre retaining bolt, but already had a full bottle of fuel out! So where else does it flow from? Can’t be the input to the filter from the top of the tank can it?
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Been a few years since l changed! Do l only need to block off the tank fuel line?
Steering wheel thoughts
in TR6 Forum
Posted
It is a matter of choice. I replaced my original 15" CP s/wheel (which I've kept safe) with a 14" MoMo which looks similar to the original 1969 black Triumph wheel. Problem for me with the original was the rim was uncomfortable thin, and it didn't have padding on the spoke ends which hurt my thumps on rough roads and pot holes! The original also had a 3" deep boss. Whereas the MoMo has a very short boss, moving the wheel further away which I prefer.