mikej
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Posts posted by mikej
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Having been recently engaged in a pourus diaphram "project" I learned that, while the "UE" AC pump part number allocated by Triumph did not change, the actual assembly did. For starters, the oil seal was added after Engine TS. 2074E - apparently to stop oil flowing through the vent hole on fast RH corners. It is a different casting, the recess hole changed size to accomodate it and is not retrofittable. Many TRs seem to have been subsequently fitted with lower pump castings that don't have the seal (or did Triumph fit them?). The oil seals I have seen are typically rock hard and/or breaking up thus providing a poor seal at best. They had not been available although they are now. All said, oil flow through the breather is not a common complaint? Fitting a slot type gasket may well help but as already commented, may reduce lubrication to the pump?
Thickness of the gasket is moderately important.
Very nice fixing bolt extension, now on my list!
MJ
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Marco, How does your Km per Litre compare between E10 and traditional petrol?
It does seem that making our cars resistant to E10 (or better, E20) is the message, great to get more confirmation that life with ethanol is possible.
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I'd not bet the farm on zero ethanol fuel being available either by declaration (eg Esso) or by a chance it may not be the full 5%. The "protected grade" has a limited life in any case. I thought I'd lead they way until cork bits showed up in my SUs!
MJ
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Dwell angle is a function of the points gap so merely checking the Dwell angle periodically is probably adequate (and very easy) if the result is the same as previous measurements then all is good BUT it won't highlight material migration on the points (the pointy lump on one and corresponding hole on the other). A feeler gauge soon makes these obvious as the growth on one point appears as a gap that's too small. As Ian says, the WSM is still the best guide to checking. I have had the same set of points for years and have no motivation to go electronic, none. One item often overlooked is a sloppy cam shaft (the one with the 4 lobes on), the bronze bearing in the main casing wears oval and this can badly affect points gaps and causes poor idle. If you can woblble the shaft by hand then the bush needs changing.
Noting that other views are available!
MikeJ
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Recently fitted Continental CT22s and so far, very happy with them. I use Black Circle Tyres who deliver to you or your fitter in 24Hrs. They have 4 popular makes to suit early TRs with or without tubes. https://www.blackcircles.com/tyres/165-80-15
MikeJ
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By pure coincidence, yesterday afternoon was spent working on a TR2's electrics. We had one flasher unit that was happyish with the side and flasher connections reversed and another that just got hot. Assuming the connections to the bulb holders are correct then the RED wires are side lights (5W) and the Green/White & Green/Red are R/H and L/H flashers (21W) respectively. Of note on the side-screen cars is the appalling 'earthing' of the steel lamp holder body. There is a 'bullet' socket for earth on each of the 4 fittings and I suggest adding a black earth lead back to the main car body (not the front part) - a ring terminal under one of the horn fixing bolts is good. Some cars have these, some don't.
MikeJ
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Impressed by the proposed styling and clear links to the Jabbeke TR2 imagery. If it ever happens the TRR may do well to become aligned with its launch and offer owners membership if BMW allow? May have a positive impact on 'real' TRs.
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Great advice Peter, not considered that. I do wiggle the wheel while socket-tightening to get a feel for the onset of over-tightening but yes, preventing bearing denting means we should keep the wheel moving while seating it all down.
Mike
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Having changed my TR2 type brake light switch 4 times (NOS stock failed and 2 new items were dreadful quality) I also considered the e-switch conversion.
All this is not helped by the complication of original switch threads, lockheed/Girling systems and incorrect info floating around. They never were BSP but are openly being sold as suitable, they are not. See RTR website for detailed explanation.
The I realised that Moss sell replacement adaptor fittings that have a BSP thread so that "modern" BSP switches fit. I did this with great results, very pleased and recomend the conversion.
Of interested, I tested a heap of previously enjoyed spares hydraulic switches and the operatining pressures varied from 15 to 100psi. They should be about 20psi(TBC) I'd bin any old ones.
MJ
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If too much preload on the bearings they will stiffen when hot and ventually fail. Righly or otherwise, I tighten them up with a socket to 3 grunts (to seat all the parts) then back of the nut and re-tigten wth fingers until it stops moving, then tighten until the next available split-pin slot is lined up. Check after 50 miles or so and again if new bearings.
MJ
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If the BT is as reliable as my smart speaker then run away! Does the PC cable connected version has much the same features?
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I looked at 123 distributers when researching the timing article for TRA a couple of years ago. I don't use one but became conviced that the version(s) with dynamic curve adjustment is the way to go if a change to electronic is desired. The standard curves were generic UK Classic car rather than specific TR, modified TR or any TR on modern fuel. In the absence of a rolling road (best) then a lap top and a technician-passenger should work well. Being able to change the "static" setting rather than delta off it is another plus. MikeJ
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Assume this is the later electrical switch Bob, but if you know a source of NOS or properly made hydraulic types it would be good to know. No longer care which thread or if they have screw or spade terminals as I'm down to my last one. I have sectioned old lucas and new units, chalk and cheese. Cheers, Mike
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There is no left speaker hole in the passenger well and while I know of some early cars with a loud speaker fitted, they only have a period mono radio.
The space in the wheel arch is not sealed so if you did find a speaker (Imperial size and modern impedance) it will need protection from the elements. If you are going to mount a radio above the tunnel, as was the Radiomobile kit of the 50s, then a speaker either side may work but I doubt you will detect the ambience of stereo in a busy sidescreen car!
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A bit late to this party but I'd also suggest that each circuit has its own "earth" with wire sized the same or bigger than the rest of the circuit. If nothing else, it will eliminate some potentially very confusing fault conditions.
MJ
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The splined parts you consider making are hardened, may not be advisable to use MSteel? Temperature cycling the assembly may help, should come off with a press, unlike the later Girling types. 20t and a torch on both mine.
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Agree with all, our mini has never been converted and is fine and the TR ran fine for 8 years without. If, and its a big IF, there is valve seat recession then you fit seats so may as well enjoy driving it as is? We don't use additives but it may be a good idea to use some provided lead replacement is a key feature. Note that most of the lead in petrol was long gone before 1999, it was not a dramatic change.
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The rear bracket that fits on the heater/dash 'Mechano' is often lost but essential as it's the only rear support. With just gloves that is ok but with satnav and other travelling toys it will put too much strain on the cardboard by the front screws.
MikeJ
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Hamish, a hard top lift to your design has just gone on the winter job list! Thanks for the idea. Standing mine on end seemed to cause fit problems but laying on two rafters running back to front under the 4 fixing holes did not.
MJ
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I assume this stiffening mod is like the wheel bearing spacer fitted to Minis etc? If so then it seems well worth the effort. Is this something we should air in TRA?
MikeJ
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No MoT or other 3rd party inspection is required for a registered VHI. As said, an insurance company may require one, and so may some countries but A-Plan don't. Maintaining the vehicle in a 'road worthy' condition is the responsibility of the registered keeper, by law so an MoT is probably the best way demonstrate reasonable efforts if ever needed. Particularly emmediately following a modification to brakes or steering.
MikeJ, VHI person, perhaps!
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I fitted a modern Clayton heater element, straight fit and from the folk that made the original elements for Smiths I believe. 2.5 times the heat output, very very pleased with it. I don't think it is responsible for my slight under heating which I attribute to a modern core in the main rad or an over enthusiastic thermostat.
Same hoses and a opportunity to change the scuttle tubes to stainless.
MikeJ
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22 hours ago, Motorsport Mickey said:
That's the original plate I think, after 50 years of underbonnet attachment. Looks like the residue of the original black paint of the plate around the left hand securing hole, and red paint of bodywork primer or top coat around the right securing hole. Don't loose it, if Swansea ever ask for that car to be inspected THAT'S the plate they'll expect to be affixed to the shell, not the shiny new replacement you'll probably fit. Swap them back after inspection.
Mick Richards
Hoping to report on plate rivets at some stage, 'pop' rivets MAY not be correct, the case for TR2-3 but not sure yet about later cars, KDRBs or imports...blind strike rivets are available.
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Jim given the price of these, it may be of interest to a wider audience. If you would like to publish in TRA drop me a mail at 'technical'. Great job.
MikeJ
Anti-theft for your TR
in TR4/4A Forum
Posted
Well, Trackers are various and selecting the best technology to defeat a Farady cage van is important. I won't say which one I use but price is not the key attribute
MJ