hpremote
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Posts posted by hpremote
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Think he might mean '2.5k', Mick.
I agree with you about avoiding thinner viscosity oils.
Me, l'm sticking with Halfords 20/50, tho might just try the Duckhams, which has reared its smooth head once more.
Tim.
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Hi, Dick: l'm a bit foxed by the location from where you report the rattle, ie. below carbs and outboard of exhaust.
But experience indicates that some sounds can be 'thrown about' a bit.
In my case, l could never locate the source of the rattle until it went off in my face, so to speak.
It was present for several years, so like a good, coarse TR- ist, l developed cloth ears and just ignored it. At high engine revs. it merely melded in with the normal thrashing noises you get with a 4-pot TR.
Last May, on the way to Jabbeke, there was a bumping sort of feeling/sound and my ign. warning came on (l was in the outside lane of the M2, in p*ssing weather, at dead of night).
My water pump pulley had disintegrated, destroying the fan belt and the pump. Miraculously the rad was untouched by the debris. However the trip to Jabbeke was defo off...
Closer inspection later revealed that the pulley metal had fatigued, and a crack had grown gradually - over literally years. Mystery solved and things put right, though l continue to harbour a grudge over having missed the rendezvous with MVC 575.
Good luck with your quest - might it just be that dreaded pulley metal fatigue..?
Tim.
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Maybe check engine mounts, and if necessary renew, Hamish?
Tim.
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Am thinking of you,Jean. Hang in, ol' son!
Tim.
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Your satire is noted and appreciated, Pete.
Tim.
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Hi, Dirk:
I have just done this job on my 3. The only thing I cannot be sure of, is whether my pump is 'uprated'; what I do know is that the new vanes are different from those on the pump I took off.
So Peter's info is worth taking good notice of.
1: Do you need a special tool or something to attach the pulley onto the water pump shaft with the woodruff or should it just slide into the slot? Step-by-step...: I first slotted the fixing bolt into its corresponding hole on the pump flange (at 8 o'clock as you view from the front (and I found it's worth, first, trial-rotating the pump to get the best alignment of the three pump flange-to-block holes/studs, as they do not appear to be quite uniform...).
Next, I fitted the new woodruff key into the pump spindle (file the key down a little, if it it's too wide and would otherwise need forcing into its respective slots) and slid the new pulley onto the spindle; it was just slacker than an interference fit and the whole assembly was an easy wind up in a vice, using 18 foot/pounds as the torque-setting.
2: I got an extra washer with the kit (There was a washer and nut on the water pump). Where should this go? You don't need that extra washer, is my view.
3: Do I need to remove the thermostat housing to replace the pump? No. Just undo the three fixings (spanner access is not brilliant - just requires patience), remove old pump and pulley, clean up the joint facing on the block and get ready with your new gasket and sealant.
4: Can I slip a "wide" fanbelt inbetween the fan and radiator or do I need to remove the fan to fit a new belt? It looks like if I can get the one edge of belt through there which will then allow me to slip it over all the pulleys. Yes. It sounds a little barbaric, as it might feel like you are squashing the belt, but I've always found you can turn the fan to help you get the belt past and over the fan hub
5: Do I need to run the pump dry for a bit or something to set the seal? Certainly not!
6: I assume I somehow need to remove the pulley before I can remove the pump due to nuts being behind the pulley? Not in my experience; see my comment to your Q.3
Last, in response to your secondary Q., you can re-fit the original (providing, of course, that you haven't been brutal with the pump while removing the pulley). Pump bearings tend to be quite sensitive.
Hth,
Tim.
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Many thanks for the quick response,Alec. I note your advice on not overdoing things, too.
What a brilliant Forum this is!
Cheers,
Tim.
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Hi, all:
I had a disastrous end to my hoped-for trip to rendezvous with MVC 575 last weekend.
After over 300 easy miles I came to an inglorious halt on the M2; the fan pulley on the water pump had fractured, breaking the fan belt and lunching the water pump (via the woodruff key which mangled the spindle).
Various remedial action was tried, to make progress notwithstanding, but to cut to the chase, I had to get relayed back up north. Boy, was I fed up...
Anyway, I've taken off the offending items from the car and have new parts on the way. Now...
Could someone please tell me what is the torque setting for the large nut which affixes the pulley to the water pump?
Thanks in advance.
Tim.
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I hope to be there, Edwin.
Tim.
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That is a very nice car; congrats on your acquisition.
I know it has some blemishes, and I saw the pics of the sill, but if it were mine and the chassis is strong, I would not be wanting to do too much of anything to it for now.
It wears its patina well and genuinely. I've lived with sidescreens (the cars and the specific weather equipment!) a lot worse than yours... : )
Tim.
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And remember that the old adage about aligning the two holes using the drill bit method, doesn't always apply.
After ORS sold me a new solenoid at IWE in 2011, I tested the car and found o/d still wasn't engaging consistently.
The ORS chap was prepared for this and advanced the clamp positioning (so that the holes were no longer aligned).
Result: everything was OK - and has been since.
He said sthg to the effect that 'you sometimes have to assist the voltage'... : )
Just a thought...
Tim.
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Many thanks for the tips and diagrams, Tim, Edwin and Bob. The combination should work fine, I think.
And thanks also, Ian, for the ref. to the Technicalities CD - which I had not totally forgotten; I just hadn't appreciated that it contains relevant info.
I'll dig that out too, and have a look.
Regards, all,
Tim.
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Hi, sage electricksters:
When I first got my 3 back in 1975, it had a lovely dash-mounted headlamp flasher system, operated by an almost flush brass button-type switch.
That's long gone, I'm afraid, having been lost when Stuart Jenks rebuilt the car in the late '80s.
I fancy fitting a flasher again (and also one to my Allard Special, which has the clumsy pre-war type Lucas combined headlamp/ign lock switch that tends to turn off the engine if you quickly try and turn the h/lights on/off).
However, I can't find anything pertinent to headlamp flashers for early cars on the Forum's Search facility; neither is there much of any use to be found on yer usual Search Engines.
Can anyone here help with a simple wiring circuit diagram, please?
I'm aware that I will need another relay (details on the appropriate relay would also be welcome!).
Thanks in anticipation of any assistance on this.
Tim.
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Hi, Ian: just to confirm that whenever I have taken the tank out of my '55 3, it has come out through the boot. Very straightforward.
Fitting it back into the car involves the scraped knuckles largely because of the accompanying struggle with the refitting of the filler-to-tank rubber connecting sleeve and its two securing clips; the sleeve always seems too long, and access is hampered by the narrow gap between the filler and tank nozzles, and the rear saddle panel - but with persistence and resort to loud profanities I've found that eventually it all goes back together.
Good luck!
Tim.
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Unless that last '0' is an 'O', signifying 'Overdrive' - in which case the car is a late-ish TR2.
Cheers,
Tim.
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A v. useful article. Thanks, Alec.
Tim.
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Hi, Qim:
Yes, it is possible - and even more so if you have a radiator with the crank-handle hole. First remove the radiator grille.
As I remember, the rad. hole allows you to get a socket extension through and you can then, in turn, engage the bolts which locate the fan to its shaft. Just rotate the fan to bring each bolt into view.
I try to retain the bolts and their backing rubber insulation spacers relative to their position on the fan and the hub - just in case the assembly has previously been balanced.
I've even taken the rad out without removing the front valance - but that was a true knuckle-skin removing exercise - on each of the two occasions when I did it!
Good luck,
Tim.
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Hi, Tony:
I've had a Phoenix tubular manifold and custom piping on my 3 for ten years and have had no damage problems with underbonnet heat. No wrap or heat shields on my car, but I only have a dynamo; I have heard, as advised above, that alternators may be more vulnerable to the extra radiating heat.
Cheers,
Tim.
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Alec: a bit of a caution re. Neatsfoot oil.
I used quite a bit on my old flying jacket, a couple of years ago. It was fine for the leather, but I strongly suspect it of having attacked the thread in the seams.
I ended up having to do a lot of restitching shortly after the application...
Cheers,
Tim.
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Jag:
I was thinking of an alloy tank 18 mths ago, after the slosh sealant on my (steel) tank began breaking down and contaminating the fuel system,
Someone said alu might flex more than was good for it, under the mounting straps - and as the body tub flexes; so in the end I stayed with (2nd hand) steel.
But why not try sticking with your original tank until such time as you know for sure it's breaking up inside and is the source of the line blockages? It might merely need a good purging, inside... Shake well, with a few stones added, and then steam-clean.
Keeps the car more original and saves dosh, too!
Tim.
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Get a few louvres cut into the bonnet, Austin - around 10 or 12 left and right, at the windscreen end of the raised section of the bonnet. They assist only marginally, probably - but they look good, imo!
Tim.
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Thanks for the solutions, Pete and Bob.
I'll do some experimenting now...
Tim.
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'I have wired my new starter such that I use the original solenoid to supply power to the built in (pre-engage) solenoid on the motor.'
Pray tell, Bob, how you have done this.
I fitted my Hi-torque starter ca. 17 years ago and lost the use of the bulkhead solenoid at that point. Have often puzzled what I could do to get the facility back...
Cheers,
Tim.
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Oh well, in that case!
They look fine to me!
Best,
Tim.
Looking for a new/good steering box!
in TR2/3/3A/3B Forum
Posted
Hi, sage ones:
I've decided to bite the bullet and get a new steering box and/or internals, for my 3. Any ideas as to where, or indeed whether l can get the part(s)?
Under no circs will l be persuaded to 'go rack and pinion'!????
Thanks in advance for advice/pointers,
Tim.