hpremote
-
Content Count
351 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Posts posted by hpremote
-
-
Hi, Simon:
Sorry l cannot help with your technical question, tho l think Stuart covers that.
Just total agreement with Bob and Iain about sticking with the old steering box. After adjusting to increasing degrees of steering slop over the preceeding 43 years with my early 3, l had the set-up rebuilt this summer, with parts from TR Shop, including the Revington-style sprung top-plate. The result was a revelation: ultra precise steering, making the car a pleasure to drive. I'm by no means an originality buff either; my car has, over the years, become a bitsa, par excellence!
I've seen r&p arrangements which critically increase your turning circle - and then, as Bob says, you also lose your self-cancelling indicators (at best, with the Bastuck slip-ring). So l wouldn't for a moment consider r&p.
Tim, at Willow Triumph (nr. Darlington) did my work, and l can recommend him - purely as a satisfied customer.
Tim Wilson.
-
Phil Tucker has built one (Alfa twink-powered), and Glen, of Protek, did one in the 90s, as l recall.
Tim.
-
I happened to look up the Register Homepage this morning and saw the headline.
Great pic of MVC, but for pity's sake, can we get the spelling of Jabbeke right, please?
Pedantically, as ever,
Tim.
-
It does sound as if somehow, the o/drive has engaged, and perhaps stuck in that mode, Bob.
In which case, it is a good idea not to do any more reversing... until you're certain that o/d is disengaged.
With a bit of luck, there'll be no harm done. Over the years, l've done this a few times, and have got away with it.
Tim.
-
Ah, a factory reconditioned (FR) engine! An early one, as well! : )
Tim.
-
I fitted my hi-torque starter on 18th Feb 1999. Cost, from Northern TR Centre was £131.01, in exch. for my rather chewed-up 'bomb' unit.
Tim.
-
Thanks, Roger.
It seems rather good value for a works Le Mans car. Must check Graham's book on Works' Triumphs.
Tim.
-
Hi, all:
Has anyone any thoughts on this car - 'PKV 375'?
Tim.
-
That is great news, Paul! What's the condition like? Pics, please!
IlRC, the old Bill Piggott-type traces often gave detail of the Standard-Triumph dealer who first sold the car; from that you could ascertain the borough council which probably first registered the car, and then you'd try to find if their records are still extant. Might this work in your case, l wonder?
See you soon at a Group meeting!
Tim.
-
Do you use tubes in the Vreds, Roger?
Tim.
-
Although l'm not a spatman myself, for me, the spats on your car somehow go well together with the hardtop, Roger. The fit is v. nice. The rebuild looks to be coming along nicely.
To avoid thread drift, l've sent you a PM re. Allards.
Tim.
-
Fwiw, why not stick with the delights and diversity of the 7-speed o/d gearbox, rather than opt for the new, 5th gear?
Tim.
-
Quote Richard: "you do have to remove the cylinder head".
When l did mine sans apron removed, Richard, l got away without removing the head.
Tim.
-
It is posssible, Mike; l've done it three times, in the early years, when my 2 and 3 were suffering from fibreglassed-over wings/front aprons in 1970 - and then '81.
As l remember, the horns and rad struts had to come off, followed by the water pump (l think) and, of course, the fan and the crank dog. Possibly the support strut/tube between the front suspension towers, too. My memory of it all is a bit hazy...
- but it wasn't too bad to do, overall.There is then a challenge in pulling the rad up and out, without graunching any rad-tubes, in what is at that point quite a delicate and tight situation.
Good luck, if he decides to proceed with it this way!
Tim.
-
Done; fingers x-ed.
Tim.
-
Totally, Peter. R&P was never a consideration, once l had looked into the detail (admittedly this was several yrs ago, when my steering was already awful); r&p is light, OK, but the other points you mention made the choice a no-brainer in my case.
What l had not expected, however, was that the rebuilt box would be so good.
Incidentally l also went for the Revington-type sprung top plate.
Tim.
-
I posted a couple of mths back, asking for folks' thoughts on what to do about my 3's extremely vague steering... As ever, suggestions were gratefully received and helpful.
In the end l decided to buy the internals and go for a rebuild - and by s.o. rather more qualified to do so than myself. It was also time for a new wing (the current one had been on since 1989). A Northumbria mate had had some work done by Tim, at the above Company, and suggested l contact him.
Anyway, l spent a few hundred quid with TR Shop, and then a bit more on a f/glass wing (to match 2 others on my car), took it all down to Tim and left it there.
Some of the new steering box components needed due fettling (as, of course, did the plastic wing), but l got the car back this morning, and l must say, he's done a brilliant job: quick, clean and accurate - and for a good price, too.
Driving back up the A1 was a delight. The steering is so sharp and confidence-inspiring; of course, it's the first time in nearly 63 yrs that it's been attended to...
Plus, a nice colour-match on the beige paintwork.
So a full thumbs-up and hearty recommendation for Tim (no relation
, or any other connection, other than as a satisfied customer) for a job well done. Check him out with a call if you need serious work doing on your car; he has a waiting list, but it's not too long.Hth.
Cheers,
Tim.
-
Lovely, Pete. My Ma had a '65 Mk.2 in BRG, back around 1971, and l have a soft spot for them, tho the handling l remember as a bit lairy, in certain conditions. If this were mine, l'd defo keep it 'oily rag' but, as you say, with application of some serious anti-corrosion treatment.
Best,
Tim.
-
If it was me, John, l'd change the condensor first, as it's a cheaper fix. Then the rotor arm, as it's next cheapest (get a red one, from the Distributor Doctor). Also check the tightness of the small nut in the distributor, which clamps the left side of the cb points and the lo-tension wire.
Then get a new coil!
Good luck,
Tim.
-
Whatever you do, John, no matter how early the car or your concern for originality, do not swap the 60s for 48s. 48s are not really up to the job, and l'd even argue that they are not safe for long-term, serious road use. 60s are, and they look great, while still not OTT.
As Don says, a 48 will do as a 'space-saver' spare for short-term, get-you-home use.
Tim.
-
-that's fine, Colin; l was thinking l might just save you some dosh! I'm v. probably tempting providence here, but the only time l got my front valance dunched was in a Sunderland multi-storey, when my 3 still had bumpers...
Good luck with your choice!
Tim.
-
Thanks for the useful comments on the Revington top-plate, Keith and Bob. Food for thought, but l reckon, if l go for new internals, that l'll get that extra part.
Awaiting pricings.
Tim.
-
My personal preference, Colin, would be to avoid having to make the decision in the 1st place, save weight and do without; imo the 2 & 3 look so much better sans front bumper.
Tim.
-
Thanks for the response, guys. Rog, your man looks a worthwhile contact; incidentally l have an Allard Special which also needs (perhaps even more desperately
) a s/box rebuild, so l may well phone him on both counts.Ta also, for the offer of boxes, Tim. l have not yet decided on whether to go for an entire new box, or whether to opt for new internals; l'm currently pricing the latter with TR Shop.
The other thing is, l'm currently unsure as to whether the Revington-type sprung top-plate is a Good Thing...
I'll keep you posted re. decisions, decisions!
Tim.
TR3 for sale - Essex
in TR2/3/3A/3B Forum
Posted
Looks like a 3A to me.
Tim.