bob-menhennett
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Posts posted by bob-menhennett
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Looks to me that the wire clip " hinges" at the bottom of the photo. The " free" ends at the top of the bulb should be " squeezed " together , to allow the
clip to be swung forwards , away from the bulb.
It seems to me that a lot of wire retaining clips have a slight variation in operation. Designed to exercise " the little grey cells " , either that or drive you mad
one of the two.
Bob
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Paul the holes immediately above the fixing holes are the float chamber vent. So the implication is that your " excess " fuel is coming from the float chamber.
You said that you cleaned up the float valve.... tick that one. Is the retaining hinge pin operation free to move , no obvious metal burrs / damage ? Are both
floats "leak free " and the "metalwork" betwixt them straight , not disformed in any way ? ( Both of the floats should be level, in the same plain ). Finally check the
floats rise and fall without hinderance.
A few things to check over , hope something comes to light from your investigations.
Bob
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Belated Birthday Greetings
Bob
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Happy Birthday Robin
Bob
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Nige
Have you tried the old " hot water bath / soak " for rubber components. A piece of thick string , looped through the cover , loose ends tied to a screwdriver to pull on.Untie
and remove string , once in situ. May need a first dummy run but a second dip in hot water will do no harm. Bob
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Ian Moss stock new washers for the underside of the bezel TR3-3A from TS12568 ( yours ? )
Seal, wheelbox (moss-europe.co.uk). They go a bit crusty with the passing years and one day you have a leak. Remove the wiper arm / blade and give the retaining
nut a good dosing of penetrating oil / Plus Gas and leave to permeate for a while. Having removed the nut , spindle and rubber washer, thoroughly clean the paintwork
around the hole. Dab of car polish and fit new washers to each wiper spindle , tighten up the fittings - firm but down go mad.
Bob
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Peter The first thing to eliminate is the connection on the dipswitch to the headlights , is that still attached. Not unheard of for the lucar connector parting company.
You're looking for the Blue / White coloured wire. If it's not that follow the line to the Headlight relay , again looking for a disconnected or damaged wire to the nearside headlight. Then the back of the headlight it self , unusual but peel back the rubber boot if necessary to check.
Sorry re thought. If it's just the one headlight then check the Headlight relay output to the nearside head light. terminal marking should be No 87.
Shortly after the wires split , left and right at a rubber connector. Remove the wire and clean the bullet , replace and check lights.
Bob
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Roger
I can sense the " glow of satisfaction " from here and the murmurs of " if only life was always this easy ".
Another piece of information added to the TR font of knowledge. Well done.
Belated Happy New Year. I'm hoping to get along to the TVG meetings again soon. Must plead guilty to keeping the
NHS fully occupied since October 2021. 11 appointments , with different Departments and still counting. They're
all working flat out and each one deserves a medal.
Bob
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Dave was definitely one of the good guys. I'd always buy bits from him at the Internationals in the early 20's when I was in mid restoration. He always had bits you couldn't find elsewhere and tricks of the Trade were also given generously , without any prompting. A Gent.
Bob
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Welcome back Roger , a valuable resource of practical experience , delivered with a touch of humour / banter.
You're one of the good guys , make no mistake. The Forum is much richer for your return.
Hope to catch up with you at TVG once my recovery is complete.
Bob
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Roger is spot on GHF101 = 1/4" UNF x 1" screw ( Bolts are only part threaded down it's length )
Bob
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Robert Could you please clarify whether the road springs are already fitted to the car or not ?
If not , then follow all the safety precautions given in the replies.
Once fitted you can leave the car secure on axle stands under the chassis, with the road wheel removed.
Remove the four nuts and spring washers securing the damper / shock Absorber lower mounting brackets to the underside
of the lower wishbone. Remove the locknut and nut , washer and upper rubber mounting from the top of the damper / shock Absorber. Withdraw the damper / Shock Absorber from the lower wishbone and remove the rubber mounting and washer from the damper rod. Remove the bolt and nut from the damper brackets to the damper. Clean up and fit new the new ones. ( Repair Operation Manual 60.20.02 )
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Welcome from another TR4 owner. My nut and bolt resto took me a lot longer than
I think yours will. The car looks like a good basis for the renovation / updating.
Good luck with it. Daft questions are the Forum's specialty ...... we relish a challenge.
Experienced owners / restorers are people who have asked lots of daft questions in the past.
Bob
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If you are replacing all the front suspension bushes in one hit it's not a bad idea to mark / label each "arm " to aid reassembly later. e.g RH , LH , Upper , Lower , front , back as appropriate.
( Once you've gone mad / had a rush of blood to the head. Sandblasted them , repainted them , allowed to dry , laid
them out on the bench , you stand back and think " now which one was this one ? ).
Bob
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My TR4 bonnet stuck twice during my nut and bolt resto. Until somebody , who has hands on experience with TR7 / 8s
comes along , have you tried the two person trick. One in the car and the other person standing by the rear edge of the the bonnet , hands placed 1/3rd and 2/3rds across the bonnet edge.
On the " mutual "count of 1-2-3 the person on bonnet duty presses down firmly with flattened hands and releases the pressure immediately. The person in the hot seat pulls on the release cable a fraction of a second after the " 3 " count.
Timing is everything , the aim is to compress the spring ( holding the catch engaged whilst moving ) allowing the catch to
release. Rather than continuing to hold the bonnet down , the compressed spring pressure , when released , will help
throw the bonnet open. It might take a couple of goes to get the timing right between the two of you but worth ago.
Once open , put an old blanket over the bulkhead panel / wing edge so you don't close it again in error. Clean up the mechanism ( carb cleaner , suitable protection ). Check the bonnet hinges aren't slack. Re set the striker plate by
putting some Blutack in the " hole where the " striker pin " hits. Naturally it should be dead central. Slowly lowering
the bonnet sufficiently to make an impression in the Blutack. If the retaining bolts are loose that maybe the cause of
the no go situation. To continue , slacken bolts adjust the plate as required. Bolt down tightly when optimum position is reached. Prop up bonnet , lightly oil the release cable and grease the mechanism ( after removing the Blutack ).
Bob
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Keep any lubrication away from the top section of the cable behind the Speedo.15 /20cm ought to be enough.
Bob
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Another endorsement for Captain Tolley. Very easy to apply for windscreen rubber sealing. Comes out a " milky " colour
so that you can see where it has been applied but dries clear. Invariably needs a second application but quick , easy and
you don't get mucky doing it.
The harder fix , if it's the plenium at fault , is another story all together. I had to weld in patches, new short metal drain tubes and a new circuit for the rubber tubing , taking the water out below the car. Access was easy during my body off , cut in two restoration . Wings removed . new floor pan , cills , etc. I made sure I wouldn't have to do it again in a hurry.
Bob
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My painters " new lad" thoughtfully removed my " hooks " during prepping because he could not see any use for them ( 2006 ).
Same dilemma , with a newly painted car. I used some black velcro tape to make a loop for both sides. Made it long
enough for the loop to go around the sun visor arm and back again , for the velcro fixings to overlap 2" / 50 mm.
It holds the material flap in board , so that the rising window top doesn't duck underneath it. Was the ideal solution
....no but it works at a practical level.
Bob
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Chris , I'm still trying to work out how to harness " hindsight " in advance !
I could sell the technique and make a fortune. I promise that you'll be the first to know the secret when I crack it.
Take care , Bob
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Phil
Chris referenced his " slight line " being visible on his fitted seat covers. It's worth purchasing some Scrim , ( Ebay )
A light thin foam material available in different sizes 3 , 5, 6 mm , etc. Fitted over the main foam parts. The thinner end of the spectrum is quite adequate to give you a professional finish under the covers ( plus you can always "double up " if the single sheet is not sufficient.)
Usual spray glue application. Using your spare pair of hands , lay the scrim sheet on the centre line and works outwards ,
lowering the sheet as you go. It's quite light easy material to work with and a pair of scissors will easily trim off surplus
edges. There's a reason why professional trimmers use it and the extra few quid , is money well spent.
Good luck with it. Bob
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Belated Happy Birthday Bob. Hope the voyage blew a few cobwebs away. I recognize the spot on the Thames. You've just left the lock at Hampton Court behind you , passed the Rowing Clubhouse on your left and Taggs Island is on your right. It brought back happy memories of my younger days ( last Century !! ) running Canoeing Courses on Sunday mornings. We use to launch the canoes from Hurst Park field , a little further on from your photo location.
As for " counting backwards" Bob I'd save your energy , Time and tide wait'th for no man.
Regards Bob
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Barry Just a quick PS. If you tie a long piece of string to the back bumper and the other end to the back bar of the frame ,
you can finesse the frame's position. Mark the webbing and then fix the lift the dot parts.
Bob
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Barry You're correct the normal " lift the dot " clasps works OK on the two longer pins. If you have sufficient length
left on the webbing , folding the fabric back , to double up , makes a stronger job.
On the underside of the hood is a sewn in double flap , with poppers , that fixes the hood to the front bar of the frame.
When the car reaches high speeds , I found that the hood vibrates and the closed poppers "pinged / rattled " against the frame.
Not wanting to put up with this irritation , I wrap an old cloth beer mat around the front metal frame bar and then fix the three poppers. It's a snug fit and eliminates the vibration and attendant noise. An old tea towel / hand towel would work just as well.
Bob
TR6 Gearbox Cover Filler Hole Position
in TR6 Forum
Posted
A bit of Gaffa / Gorilla Tape ( half on the socket , other on the extension bar ) or a bit of BLU TACK is a lot less messy than mastic.
Bob